Horsetan Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 Depends how desperate the seller is Edited, I'm not so sure ebay is the best place to sell a top quality model like that, especially being scale 7 If the seller was Ozzy's customer seeking to sell for a profit, I guess Ozzy's fees will be going up in future now that he knows the customer's motives..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted October 20, 2014 Author Share Posted October 20, 2014 If the seller was Ozzy's customer seeking to sell for a profit, I guess Ozzy's fees will be going up in future now that he knows the customer's motives..... I know what it cost to build the loco! and at £985 plus P&P that does not make a profit. The loco kit, paint job, wheels, motor and gearbox would add up to about £700. If you have a spare £1000 buy the loco as you would be getting a bargain. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted November 6, 2014 Author Share Posted November 6, 2014 Hello all, as I've a few days off work together I decided to start on the centre bearing pivot for the TT. The first job was to turn the out side dia's. and the lengths, After this it was drilling out the clearance hole for the shaft and the recess for the top bearing, The job was then turned around (using a collet chuck) and the base finished off to size leaving a 12mm collar to fit in the base board. Then the bottom recessed for the bearing, The finished job before grit blasting, After grit blasting, After painting and the bearings fitted, The job is more of a representation of the pivot as it should have six ribs up the sides and on the base with six holding down bolts, but as it's going to be under the TT and in a deep pit I think that this will do. At the moment the pivot drive pin is in the freezer so that I can get it to fit in the bearings (a 3/16" shaft will not fit into a 3/16" hole), 3 hours at -10C should do it (I had a look in my cooking books but this was not in any of them. Odd). OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted November 6, 2014 Share Posted November 6, 2014 Interesting. How is the t/t to be motorised? On mine, (when it finally gets done) it's being motorised with the GF Controls system, which requires removal of the provided bearings to let it do it's job properly. The table itself is supported on the bearings of the control unit. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted November 6, 2014 Share Posted November 6, 2014 In the conventional method Jeff. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted November 6, 2014 Share Posted November 6, 2014 What conventional method? Hand operated? Geared from underneath, but hand cranked? Motorised some way? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted November 6, 2014 Author Share Posted November 6, 2014 Hello JeffP, IIRC the drive that is used is a large disc (about 10" - 12" Dia.) of M.D.F. with a groove cut in the edge to take a large "rubber" band that is driven by a motor and gearbox. Steve is thinking about driving it using this method. With a small camera mounted above the TT to help align the tracks. As R/B only has about 5 or 6 roads onto and off TT this should work OK. If not it should be possible to modify it to a stepper motor and geared belt drive that could be driven by DCC. OzzyO. PS. the drive is the one that Metalsmiths provide as the motorising kit. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted November 6, 2014 Share Posted November 6, 2014 Hi Yes I will be using the Metal smith motorising option as we discussed earlier in this thread. The motor will be wired to a DCC decoder so that it can be called up and driven by my DCC controller. As RB is a light engine movement and shunting layout, I want to drive the turn table my self. I have installed the turn table before and driven it quite satisfactory. As Ozzy said I will mount a CCTV camera above the TT on the ceiling and I already have a TV mounted on the wall so I can have a birds eye view of the table and this will help with alignment. Although I do like my technology I do tend to be a little more old school when it comes to layouts. I will use DC control for the point work with Cobalt point levers and as above Manual control for the turn table. I want to be more hands on instead of having multiple automatic control for things. In the end it just gives me more things to do when operating the layout. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted November 6, 2014 Share Posted November 6, 2014 3 hours at -10C should do it (I had a look in my cooking books but this was not in any of them. Odd). ..........and if it doesn't, 10 minutes in the chip pan for the bearing will help, and you can have a snack after if you throw in some spuds at the same time! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted November 7, 2014 Author Share Posted November 7, 2014 ..........and if it doesn't, 10 minutes in the chip pan for the bearing will help, and you can have a snack after if you throw in some spuds at the same time! Just a slight problem I don't have a chip pan. but I could put the bits in the oven and bake the paint on . Lets see gas mark 4, for about 20 min per1 llb plus 30 min. should do it, then I'll put the spuds in for about 45 mins..Along with the Yorkshire puds. That's it dinner sorted for tonight. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 Just a slight problem I don't have a chip pan. but I could put the bits in the oven and bake the paint on . Lets see gas mark 4, for about 20 min per1 llb plus 30 min. should do it, then I'll put the spuds in for about 45 mins..Along with the Yorkshire puds. That's it dinner sorted for tonight. OzzyO. Looks like your burning the midnight oil, has she kicked you out of bed again . Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted November 7, 2014 Author Share Posted November 7, 2014 Hello all, well I got the pivot finished today so it'll be in the post later and Steve should have it tomorrow (Sat.). Drive shaft fitted in to the bearings etc. The drive dog for under the table, The full job, I've left the top shaft a bit on the long side so Steve can adjust it to suit the depth of the pit. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 Still got the O'l magic Ozzyo Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted November 11, 2014 Author Share Posted November 11, 2014 Hello all, I've got a loco in for a bit (lot) of TLC it's now running OK. But the Slater's gear box makes a lot of racket, I'm about to strip it down. Any pointers on what to look for? Thanks for any help, OzzyO. PS. photos to follow. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted November 11, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 11, 2014 Hello all, I've got a loco in for a bit (lot) of TLC it's now running OK. But the Slater's gear box makes a lot of racket, I'm about to strip it down. Any pointers on what to look for? Thanks for any help, OzzyO. PS. photos to follow. What to look for? Gears in a gearbox... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter220950 Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 And hopefully some form of lubricant/grease? - If not, could be why it's a bit noisy. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Siberian Snooper Posted November 12, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 12, 2014 Is there any slop in the bearings, do the teeth match and mesh correctly? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 I have a Slaters GB14 in a diesel loco and that can be a bit "whiney" at anything like a reasonable speed. It's done it from new and I thought it would quieten down as time went on but no change yet.. JF Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted November 12, 2014 Author Share Posted November 12, 2014 What to look for? Gears in a gearbox... Lots of them, see photo below And hopefully some form of lubricant/grease? - If not, could be why it's a bit noisy. Plenty of it. Is there any slop in the bearings, do the teeth match and mesh correctly? The bearings in the gear box are roller bearings and feel to be OK, when I turned the motor over by hand it all feels free, IT could just be the number of gears and bearings, and that the gearbox needs a good bit of running in! OzzyO. PS. I've just had a look at the gearbox, it's a GB03 type. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 Is it noisy when driving/not driving anything or under all conditions? Mine was ok on the bench, then just driving one axle running unloaded but once it took the (not inconsiderable ) weight of the loco it started getting a little noisy but it's the same pulling a train either light or heavy. JF Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted November 12, 2014 Author Share Posted November 12, 2014 Is it noisy when driving/not driving anything or under all conditions? Mine was ok on the bench, then just driving one axle running unloaded but once it took the (not inconsiderable ) weight of the loco it started getting a little noisy but it's the same pulling a train either light or heavy. JF Hello Jon, it's noisy in all conditions, in the loco and out of the loco, under load and off load. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Siberian Snooper Posted November 12, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 12, 2014 A trick that sometimes works is to clean the lubricant off the gears and replace with a tiny amount of toothpaste, keep it away from bearings and run the motor and gearbox for a short time in both directions. Make sure you clean off ALL the toothpaste, it is a fairly aggressive cutting compound overtime. Then re-lubricate the gears and hopefully all should be better. The process may be repeated a couple of times if it proves to be making an improvement, but don't go daft. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 Ozzy I'd start with a thorough clean and then re lubricator with new grease - do check that it's not too stiff, and it is compatible with the plastics If that doesn't help, maybe loosening & re tightening the bolts that hold it all together will help the alignment Only if these don't work, would I consider the toothpaste routine, but to be fair, I did it on Scalextric cars, not £100 gearboxes... Do avoid the bearings and do clean it off completely at least twice! If that doesn't work, maybe earplugs or a loud sound chip ?? Good luck Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 What's controlling the axial thrust on the shafts? If it's the side plate perhaps some very thin packing (or side plate manipulation) might help? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted November 12, 2014 Author Share Posted November 12, 2014 Hello all, thanks for the replies, I've had a look on Slater's web site at the gearboxes that they now do and the GB03 is not now one of them (in the form that I have it). It looks to have been replaced by one with brass sides and no roller bearings. Could the GB03 with glass reinforced sides have been dropped due to noise issues? One of the problems with cleaning the grease out of the box is that it could also remove the grease out of the roller bearings as well. I had thought about the toothpaste idea but discounted the idea for the same reasons as above, the cleaning out of the detritus. Then I could also have the problem of getting toothpaste in the bearings and then getting it out. All in all it looks like a rock and a hard place. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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