Dapol 'Western'

[Downendian]

Andrew beat me to it ... That's precisely what I found, Bachmann 36-557 in all my Dapol Westerns now.

Neil

[Gwiwer]

Notwithstanding which the cab lights are far too bright (same as the 22s) and should not be on when in motion - possibly dimmed for shunting only but out when on the main line.  Mine are simply unplugged for DC operation - remove the body and part the plugs inside.

[Rugd1022]

Alas there was never a 'dimmer' setting for cab lights on any BR locos, just on or off!

[Torr Giffard LSWR 1951-71]

...ironically, locos rarely travelled in darkness with the cab lights on because the light reflected back from the windscreen and badly affected forward vision. 

 

Dave

[Geoff Endacott]

Cab lights on the Westerns had two settings - dim and off. Bright was never an option.

 

Geoff Endacott

[The Stationmaster]

Not sure if this is the right place but I've just had a 'phone call from Kernow to advise that a weathered maroon 'Western' has arrived with them.  I'm not sure if it's only the one or if teh others which haven't got here previously are also with this lot

[colinjamesporter]

Western Princess is in stock. Im collecting my sound example from swindon show next weekend to go with my howes fitted version of enterprise. Swd supply kernows chips.

[SJR]

Not sure if this is the right place but I've just had a 'phone call from Kernow to advise that a weathered maroon 'Western' has arrived with them.  I'm not sure if it's only the one or if teh others which haven't got here previously are also with this lot

 

According to an Email from Kernow I received 1st September, my sound equipped Western Princess had been packed and was ready for dispatch. As it has to travel to the other side of the world I'm hoping it will arrive here sometime this coming week.

[Gwiwer]

All four of the initial commissions have been received at Kernow and the blue ones at least should have been sent and received some weeks ago.  The maroon syp has just been mailed (mine arrived on Friday after a typically speedy flight from Camborne) and the fye had just, literally as Hayley was compiling the newsletter, arrived at the shop on the same day but with none yet despatched.

 

The additional blue fye version in response to demand is expected late this year apparently.

 

It's encouraging to know that not only is there strong demand for locos at this price with most of the detail fitted (only brake rods and couplers need to be added) and commissioned weathering but that there is a short-term slot available for a re-run.  

 

Fans of dirty hydraulics may have never had it so good.

[47137]

I have just fitted the name and number plates and work plates to my blue 'Thunderer'. Just a thought for the manufacturers (not just Dapol) ... while the Shawplan etchings are perfection, I would be more than happy for the works plates to be merely printed on in the factory ...

 

 

... as long as they print it on straight!

 

Funny how a photo can show up something you have accepted for months.

 

- Richard.

Edited September 12, 2013 by 47137

[Andy1963]

I have just fitted the name and number plates and work plates to my blue 'Thunderer'. Just a thought for the manufacturers (not just Dapol) ... while the Shawplan etchings are perfection, I would be more than happy for the works plates to be merely printed on in the factory ...

 

DSCF0395.jpg

 

... as long as they print it on straight!

 

Funny how a photo can show up something you have accepted for months.

 

- Richard.

I need to fix my plates onto my maroon version, but I've been delaying for fear of making a mess of it.  Did you used superglue? and if so, any particular brand type and how did you apply it?  If not, what did you used?

[Gwiwer]

Personally I use a small tube of superglue of the sort often found in supermarket hardware aisles.  The works plate is so small that I wipe a cotton wool bud over the wet end of the glue nozzle before taking the plate in the tweezers and touching it to the glue on the bud.  That helps to get adhesive in more than one tiny pin-point spot and prevents excess from oozing out all over your lovely new model.

[Verityboo]

Might be of interest - some information about your rights and who pays for return postage.

 

http://www.which.co.uk/consumer-rights/regulation/distance-selling-regulations/

 

 

Dye

Unfortunately, consumer rights are all between the buyer and the supplier (not the manufacturer) 

 

The quoted link only refers to distance sales (internet / phone orders) and the returns info only relates to returning orders to the original supplier if immediately found to be faulty (or you are entitled to change your mind and return for a refund)

 

The sale of goods act relates to all purchases and covers purchases for up to 6 years but again only covers returning goods to the original supplier, not the manuafacturer / agent.

 

http://www.which.co.uk/consumer-rights/regulation/sale-of-goods-act/

 

The seller is the one who is responsible for refunding, repair or replacement and although the buyer can request a preferred remedy, the seller can choose the cheapest for them. If you return a loco they can choose to refund and make a deduction based on the use and age (so you could end up with a partial refund and without a loco which is virtually impossible to find and replace)

 

Returning to DCC supplies is covered by the Dapol warranty which is addition to your statutory rights, therefore they are free to impose their own terms

[Dr Gerbil-Fritters]

I need to fix my plates onto my maroon version, but I've been delaying for fear of making a mess of it.  Did you used superglue? and if so, any particular brand type and how did you apply it?  If not, what did you used?

 

use one of the slow setting ones - that'll give you a chance to adjust the plate if necessary.  The instant set ones are a bit of a nightmare if you need something to go in a particular place 

[47137]

I need to fix my plates onto my maroon version, but I've been delaying for fear of making a mess of it.  Did you used superglue? and if so, any particular brand type and how did you apply it?  If not, what did you used?

I used Humbrol acrylic satin varnish, applied in tiny drops onto the side of the locomotive with a 000 brush. Then pick up the plate with a scalpel and a finger, and place it gently onto the model. If you wear spectacles (as I do) take them off because the frames can make something crooked look straight. Press the plate down and if any varnish squeezes out (I saw a bit maybe 1 mm long on one edge), tidy it with the brush. Check alignment with a rule. Leave overnight to dry before tackling the other side.

 

If you are not sure you could cut off a strip of spare etching material and try fixing it onto some scrap plastic sheet as a practice exercise. The nice thing about the varnish is a tiny excess will blend into the bodywork.

 

I got the feeling the lines of moulded dots on the Dapol Western are half a millimetre or so too high to represent the centre line of the plates, so I put my line of varnish drops on the lower edge of the line. It is worth studying photos of the actual locomotive you are doing, I think there are subtle variations in positions of plates.

[the-gog]

My method is to use double-sided 3M sellotape. Cut it to fit the plate, ideally just a fraction smaller. Sit the plate on a smal blob of Blu-Tak. Attach to the plate, then peel off the paper covering the outer sticky layer. Pick up the Blu-Tak with tweezers, press firmly onto the loco side, hold the plate down with tweezers as you remove the Blu-Tak off it. It's never failed me over the years.

 

RWJ

[steveb860]

I need to fix my plates onto my maroon version, but I've been delaying for fear of making a mess of it.  Did you used superglue? and if so, any particular brand type and how did you apply it?  If not, what did you used?

This is one of those subjects done to death on this site, and a simple search using the search facility will produce many threads on the subject including this one  http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/39842-suitable-adhesive-for-etched-nameplates/

 

What I will add is superglue is very unforgiving if you get it wrong. Varnish on the other hand allows you to position accurately and allows you plenty of work time, and any overspill/ mess can easily be cleaned off with a cotton bud and thinners. Satin varnish blends in very well with most factory finishes. 

[railroadbill]

I used Gwiwer's and others method with superglue  (5 tubes for £1 from, where else, the Pound shop - but you only need a little).  I measured the plate position from "British Rail Main Line diesels" (Ian Allen) with a digital micrometer. I also found  that a wide coffee stirrer from Costa Coffee was actually the right depth from the bottom of the body sides when the body was off the chassis, to the bottom of the plates.  Stroke of luck there.  Pieces of Tamaya masking tape marked the end positions of each plate.

 

Thin smear of superglue on back of plate, popped it on loco along top of taped on coffee stirrer, checked with micrometer. Job done.

 

Except...next day I decided that one number plate was ever so slightly misaligned.....

I looked at it and thought about it and looked at it etc. etc.   It was so nearly there. In the end I plucked up courage and prised the number plate off with a scalpel.  I was lucky to find it again after it had pinged across the room.  Checked position again, used steel rule to check it lined up with the name plate, glued it back on. Now it's done. But still haven't tried fitting the lifting rings for the roof...

 

I  bought the plates for Western Lady from Kings Cross model railways, long gone,  in York Road just across from Kings Cross station, more years ago than I care to remember. Never fitted them to the Lima Western I had then.  Now they are on a model worthy of them. 

Edited September 13, 2013 by railroadbill

[scorpion]

£ shop superglue.. you were lucky, mine were empty

[railroadbill]

No, perhaps surprisingly, mine were ok (well, the tube I've used).  Gwiwer made the point that if you use a supermarket or cheap tube, you haven't lost too much if it dries out. All tubes empty is a bit extreme, though. Don't need a high quality glue for some things. (Bought some pva glue for £1 a bottle which is just great diluted for scenery or ballasting - might be more suspect for glueing furniture etc.

 

[47137]

This is one of those subjects done to death on this site, and a simple search using the search facility will produce many threads on the subject ...

 

I guess I started the present diversion by posting the picture of my plates ... but Dapol could help less experienced modellers by putting more detailed instructions, or even some double-sided tape, in the box with the Western. There is no single 'right way', but some methods are easier than others (and some are more permanent than others) and Dapol could shoulder some responsibility by offering their recommended method.

 

- Richard.

[railroadbill]

 

I guess I started the present diversion by posting the picture of my plates ... but Dapol could help less experienced modellers by putting more detailed instructions, or even some double-sided tape, in the box with the Western. There is no single 'right way', but some methods are easier than others (and some are more permanent than others) and Dapol could shoulder some responsibility by offering their recommended method.

 

- Richard.

 

Yup, would have helped. Printed plates to be overlaid, perhaps?

[Gwiwer]

The last of the four Kernow commissions has arrived.  I'll pass on the re-issue of the blue one at this stage as with one mainstream "pristine" one as well I now have a total of five Dapol Westerns and a fleet of ten in total.  That's enough for now!

 

Three of five have had the "Stiff screw" issue which has been readily overcome in all cases by removing the other three screws and gently prising the body away from the frame which brings the fourth screw with it but does no harm.  Four have required tiny amounts of moulding flash to be rubbed off the bogie suspension to prevent that snagging on curves.  All five have required the leading brake rods to be trimmed to prevent those catching on the tank placed behind the front-end valence.  That is another invisible modification.  I have still failed to fit lifting lugs to the pristine loco; they are quite simply too small for me to manage.  That loco has had some light weathering applied here and two of the Kernow ones have had a tiny amount of detail added just to vary the effect of their superb weathering a little.

 

All four Kernow ones have had haedcodes fitted internally but the other wears its stick-ons outside the "glass" - at least for now.  All have two-man crews added, a single coupler added at the trailing end and are "one-way" locos requiring turning to change direction when hauling a train.  Some of the Heljan ones have couplers both ends for shunting work.  Double heading remains possible with a 42 or 22 by placing the smaller loco (which also has two couplers)  "inside".

 

I have had virtually no running issues.  Two locos have a very slight wobble at one bogie which is barely noticeable when one allows for the out-of-scale "rock and roll" sometimes encountered on models.  The others have none.  They haul 10 Mk1 coaches or the equivalent freight loading very happily and will manage 12 on full power.  Hauling a full prototype rake of 40 clay "hoods" is no problem.  Slow speed control with any sort of load or light engine is good  and if my track and power supply was better it might be excellent.

 

Fitting the brake rods was a little fiddly; fitting the works plate to the pristine loco was as fussy.  Fitting the name and number plates to that loco was quite easy thanks to the faint guide lines provided.

 

Several months after the first arrived and with most having run quite a few hours in traffic now I remain delighted with them.  I'll stage a line-up and post a picture or two when there's some decent weather.

[mark alden]

Does anyone know if there will be another pristine BFY Western coming from Dapol in 'OO' before this christmas?

[colinjamesporter]

The last of the four Kernow commissions has arrived.  I'll pass on the re-issue of the blue one at this stage as with one mainstream "pristine" one as well I now have a total of five Dapol Westerns and a fleet of ten in total.  That's enough for now!

 

Three of five have had the "Stiff screw" issue which has been readily overcome in all cases by removing the other three screws and gently prising the body away from the frame which brings the fourth screw with it but does no harm.  Four have required tiny amounts of moulding flash to be rubbed off the bogie suspension to prevent that snagging on curves.  All five have required the leading brake rods to be trimmed to prevent those catching on the tank placed behind the front-end valence.  That is another invisible modification.  I have still failed to fit lifting lugs to the pristine loco; they are quite simply too small for me to manage.  That loco has had some light weathering applied here and two of the Kernow ones have had a tiny amount of detail added just to vary the effect of their superb weathering a little.

 

All four Kernow ones have had haedcodes fitted internally but the other wears its stick-ons outside the "glass" - at least for now.  All have two-man crews added, a single coupler added at the trailing end and are "one-way" locos requiring turning to change direction when hauling a train.  Some of the Heljan ones have couplers both ends for shunting work.  Double heading remains possible with a 42 or 22 by placing the smaller loco (which also has two couplers)  "inside".

 

I have had virtually no running issues.  Two locos have a very slight wobble at one bogie which is barely noticeable when one allows for the out-of-scale "rock and roll" sometimes encountered on models.  The others have none.  They haul 10 Mk1 coaches or the equivalent freight loading very happily and will manage 12 on full power.  Hauling a full prototype rake of 40 clay "hoods" is no problem.  Slow speed control with any sort of load or light engine is good  and if my track and power supply was better it might be excellent.

 

Fitting the brake rods was a little fiddly; fitting the works plate to the pristine loco was as fussy.  Fitting the name and number plates to that loco was quite easy thanks to the faint guide lines provided.

 

Several months after the first arrived and with most having run quite a few hours in traffic now I remain delighted with them.  I'll stage a line-up and post a picture or two when there's some decent weather.

Just out of interest. You mention you have fitted crews to your locos. Which company did you get yours crews from.

Best wishes colin