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The Derby Line, Four Track LNER J6


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Agreed...but £450?

 

Look at MMP stuff and then tel me it's not a high price?

Which particular MMP steam locomotive did you have in mind?

 

Let's have a look at some other 2-8-0s -

MOK Stanier 2-8-0 for £485,

Slaters GWR/BR 28xx 2-8-0 for £473

David Andrews GWR/BR 47xx 2-8-0 for £359

Martin Finney GWR/BR 47xx 2-8-0 for £422

DJH LMS/BR Jubilee 4-6-0 (no 2-8-0s listed!) for £540

 

£450 seems to be in the ball park.

 

BTW, the link above for the ex-Snowhill, now Roxey, Austerity 2-8-0 should be http://www.roxeymouldings.co.uk/product/686/7l18-wd-austerity-2-8-0/

The link in post #395 is for the 2-10-0.

 

Dave

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Which particular MMP steam locomotive did you have in mind?

 

Let's have a look at some other 2-8-0s -

MOK Stanier 2-8-0 for £485,

Slaters GWR/BR 28xx 2-8-0 for £473

David Andrews GWR/BR 47xx 2-8-0 for £359

Martin Finney GWR/BR 47xx 2-8-0 for £422

DJH LMS/BR Jubilee 4-6-0 (no 2-8-0s listed!) for £540

 

£450 seems to be in the ball park.

 

BTW, the link above for the ex-Snowhill, now Roxey, Austerity 2-8-0 should be http://www.roxeymouldings.co.uk/product/686/7l18-wd-austerity-2-8-0/

The link in post #395 is for the 2-10-0.

 

Dave

And for accuracy, the Roxey/Snowhill 2-8-0 is listed at £415 - it is the 2-10-0 that is £450, and Dave will do the Slaters wheels for the former at a tad under £150.

 

Jim

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I have all 3 WD's, my first was the Oakville a good few years ago. That kit has been through several owners and is buildable with a bit of work ( as Jim said in the instructions, 'it's not a kit where you rattle the box and produce and instant scale model'). I've not started the JLTRT one yet. It has some lost wax castings for the loco that are better than Snowhill, but the white metal castings are not as good as the Snowhill - and the resin boiler of course - if you don't want to roll a boiler. Swings and roundabouts.

 

A question for Jim -

 

parts 243, 244, 245 on the cab roof etch - I'm not sure what they are, maybe I missed them in the instructions somewhere. Could you advise?

 

Thanks

 

Tony

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But MMP DID steam locos.      His 9F was exquisite. As would be expected. Sadly taken on, with his other steam locos, (LNER Peppercorn A1, LMS Royal Scot and Duchess), by yet another owner with zero intentions of ever releasing the kit.

 

And just look at the difference in prices between the David Andrews models and the WD?

 

I'm wriggling here, as I'll almost certainly have one at some time.........and a B1 too. :no:

 

As for "Alcazar", gone on the back-burner until I can get my head round how to cut accurate strips of 20 thou nickel silver. It'll probably re-start in September. I'm away from the beginning of July until the end of August, but am HOPEFULLY taking a Tower/DJH "Warship" with me........time will tell how much gets built. For the first three weeks I'll be alone, so some might get done. After that the wife flies down, and modelling may slow or even stop again....she always finds stuff she'd like me to do.......

It's to be done as 824 "Highflyer" months from withdrawal, BFYE. I also have another, to be done as 817 "Foxhound", same condition, MFYE.

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But MMP DID steam locos.      His 9F was exquisite. As would be expected. Sadly taken on, with his other steam locos, (LNER Peppercorn A1, LMS Royal Scot and Duchess), by yet another owner with zero intentions of ever releasing the kit.

 

And just look at the difference in prices between the David Andrews models and the WD?

 

I'm wriggling here, as I'll almost certainly have one at some time.........and a B1 too. :no:

 

As for "Alcazar", gone on the back-burner until I can get my head round how to cut accurate strips of 20 thou nickel silver. It'll probably re-start in September. I'm away from the beginning of July until the end of August, but am HOPEFULLY taking a Tower/DJH "Warship" with me........time will tell how much gets built. For the first three weeks I'll be alone, so some might get done. After that the wife flies down, and modelling may slow or even stop again....she always finds stuff she'd like me to do.......

It's to be done as 824 "Highflyer" months from withdrawal, BFYE. I also have another, to be done as 817 "Foxhound", same condition, MFYE.

BFYE--  Before the first Yetti errupts?

MFYE-- mildly failed Yetti eruption?

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I have all 3 WD's, my first was the Oakville a good few years ago. That kit has been through several owners and is buildable with a bit of work ( as Jim said in the instructions, 'it's not a kit where you rattle the box and produce and instant scale model'). I've not started the JLTRT one yet. It has some lost wax castings for the loco that are better than Snowhill, but the white metal castings are not as good as the Snowhill - and the resin boiler of course - if you don't want to roll a boiler. Swings and roundabouts.

 

A question for Jim -

 

parts 243, 244, 245 on the cab roof etch - I'm not sure what they are, maybe I missed them in the instructions somewhere. Could you advise?

 

Thanks

 

Tony

Tony,

 

They are the parts for the air pump bracket. Looking at the original GA drawing for the kit, 245 is the backplate that fits against the smokebox barrel, with the half etched side inwards. 243 is the mounting plate for the air pump - the top flange folds over and fits into the upper groove on the backplate, whilst the legs fold up and fit into the rebates on either side of the backplate. 244 is the lower stiffener - the flange folds over at 90 degrees and fits into the wide half-etch recess in the back of the pump mounting plate, whilst the other end fits the lower groove in the backplate.

 

Jim

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Tony,

 

They are the parts for the air pump bracket. Looking at the original GA drawing for the kit, 245 is the backplate that fits against the smokebox barrel, with the half etched side inwards. 243 is the mounting plate for the air pump - the top flange folds over and fits into the upper groove on the backplate, whilst the legs fold up and fit into the rebates on either side of the backplate. 244 is the lower stiffener - the flange folds over at 90 degrees and fits into the wide half-etch recess in the back of the pump mounting plate, whilst the other end fits the lower groove in the backplate.

 

Jim

 

Hello Jim,

 

as you like saying about instructions or what is not said in the instructions, are we to think that these parts were left off the instructions and the air pump was left out of the (new) kit?

 

OzzyO.

 

PS. rocks and greenhouses.

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Is that price including the rusty rims :mosking: .

 

Martyn.

 

I just got some Slater's wheels and I'm disappointed, I did not get any free rust.

 

I must complain about this, as I think that I'm been hard done by. It's in the price I want my free rust.

 

Disgruntled of 11B

 

PS. I must check them as I've have them for a day or two, the salt air may have worked it's magic on them by now.

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BFYE: Blue, full yellow ends.

 

MFYE: Maroon, as above.

 

Both will eventually be finished in a worn used state, HOPEFULLY both having lighting and sound fitted. However, that, (the sound) may have to come later, as the price for that is ALSO a bit on the high side.......

 

I'm at present unsure as the whether to use LEDs or fibre optic for lighting.

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as the price for that is ALSO a bit on the high side.......

 

I'm at present unsure as the whether to use LEDs or fibre optic for lighting.

 

 

 

 

 

As your always on about price try candles, you can get about ten for a quid!!!!!!!!

 

Click and the door was shut.

 

Footsteps fading in to the distance.

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Hello Jim,

 

as you like saying about instructions or what is not said in the instructions, are we to think that these parts were left off the instructions and the air pump was left out of the (new) kit?

 

OzzyO.

 

PS. rocks and greenhouses.

I only designed the kit; the soul who built the production prototype got to write the instructions on the principle that the designer is the one person who shouldn't write instructions - he knows how it goes together. That said, there are bits that got forgotten out of the instructions (although not vital bits). There was something of an update when the kits went ot Roxey, but I haven't seen the current version of the instructions.

 

Jim (donning hard hat)

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've been away on a jolly and working wiring up a DCC garden railway, so at last it's back to the workbench.

 

I write all over the instructions when I do a build, so there could be a few amendments!

 

So the past two days have been spent on the boilers, and starting from the top, I felt the top feed sat a little high, so I cut the spigot off, filed the flange down, then drilled it  out and soldered in a new piece of brass rod to mount it on. If I was doing the join between the firebox and boiler again, I'd leave out the double former. I've had to resort to Milliput. The half etched boiler bands are a little chunky, so I used Slaters phosphor bronze strip, which is a fraction too wide, but gives a more 'flush' appearance. I added the top feed cover from 5thou brass, it's so thin it can be cut with scissors. As you can see, we have original and Doncaster fireboxes. I countersunk the holes for the turned washout plugs so that they also are more set into the cladding. Anyway,they are getting that industrial look of the WD's.

Next to finish off the detailing and attach the steam pipes.

 

 

 

post-6972-0-78258100-1404891493_thumb.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

After a break to go partying and a few days by the coast it is back to the workbench. The aim is to get the chassis' finished so that they can be painted and tested. It's that dilemma about when to paint. Preferring to reduce the number of times the loco is dismantled, the painting will be started in the short term. I hate doing the sand pipes - but that is done now. Part of the joy of loco building is the engine picking. 90383 was fitted with AWS in '61, so for my chosen period of 1962, it had to have it. 90492 was not fitted thankfully. Most of the pipe clips are made from phosphor bronze strip or 5 thou brass pressed over the pipes with square ended pliers. Now here is something I didn't know, the AWS bang plate is slightly off centre, I noticed that whilst I was lining up the rivets.. take a look next time you see a picture of one.

For the pickers, 90383 has the rear oilers at right angles to the frames and 4 lubricator feed pipes from the cab running down the boiler on the fireman's side, some locos had 2 pipes each side of the boiler. The infinite minutia of loco detail!

 

So some cleaning up to do and the steps to add this morning, don't worry Andrew, 90492 will be following immediately!

 

 

post-6972-0-90267400-1405841116_thumb.jpg

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I've incorporated some of the BR additions to the WD cabs, such as the rarely in the closed position sliding cab windows. They are left over from a DJH Ivatt and will just be seen in the gloom of the cab. Cab seats are unused Sanspareil BR standard steps mounted upside down - thank goodness for the scrap box! Cab doors are scratch built using fine tube and 0.5mm N/S wire. The reverse casting was too low, so it's soldered to the spectacle plate and a dummy base added from scrap. I think I can put the roofs on later. It's a sit in the sun and a beer next I think.

 

 

post-6972-0-58577600-1406048943_thumb.jpg

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So I think we are nearly ready for painting after a bit more cleaning up. It was interesting exploring the variation of the lubricator pipes from the cab to the cylinders. Some WD's have 2 on each side, others 4 on the fireman's side. I even found one with all four on the drivers side! These two fall in to the second category, but there is even variation on where the unions are as you can see. I also added the crank and rod  next to the firebox - not sure what that is for, blow down or rocking grate?

 

post-6972-0-82095800-1406363115_thumb.jpg

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That rod and lever down the right hand side of the firebox operates a blowdown valve and was a BR addition.

 

Apart from that, it is nice to see someone else building the kit I designed, without any significant problems. I'll look forward to seeing Andrew's one running on our test track in due course, when we can put it next to the production prototype (the one that appeared in the MRJ article many issues ago).

 

Jim

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Whilst the Wd's are in bits being painted and in between some weathering jobs I decided to fit the tablet catchers to the Ivatts, so that I can finish those off as well this month.

 

I drilled holes for the mounting spigots that are on the tablet frame castings:-

 

 

And here they are, mounted up:-

 

post-6972-0-81424600-1407081276_thumb.jpg

post-6972-0-70323800-1407081341_thumb.jpg

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Sigh.........

Actually, your incessant questioning means we're all grateful to you for being the source of so much (accidental) comedy, in-jokes, etc. You're the 7mm gift that keeps on giving, even though some of us will never model in that scale.

 

Long may it continue.

 

*giggles* :jester:

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