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Grantham - the Streamliner years


LNER4479
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 Sadly since that very early Grantham running session we haven't seen it again.

 

I had no idea that Thomas Cranmer had been sadly missed. Here's a picture to keep you going, along with one of City of Lincoln / Indefatigable (name depending on which side you view), the 4-8-2.

 

post-3445-0-48801700-1520016680_thumb.jpg

 

post-3445-0-92940600-1520016732_thumb.jpg

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I had no idea that Thomas Cranmer had been sadly missed. Here's a picture to keep you going, along with one of City of Lincoln / Indefatigable (name depending on which side you view), the 4-8-2.

 

attachicon.gifSTA78667rmw.jpg

 

attachicon.gifSTA75734rmw.jpg

Am I right in thinking that your Thomas Cranmer, superb piece of kit!!!!!, was what Bullied intended to build, but was stymed by the track men on the Southern who, after Sevenoaks, had a fear of express passenger locos with pony trucks?

I know the mikado wasn't to have a pony truck in the true sense of the word, but the damage had been done.

The 4-8-2 is ,also, a stupendous beast!!

OK Mr Thompson, rebuild that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Hi 3279

 

 

I really need help with this and welcome any ideas.

 

I think the best favour I can do is to show briefly the key points in extending the A4 4-6-2 chassis as that is the more refined, or technically "better" chassis of the two. The Bulleid 2-8-2 is more of a basic plastic and resin lump with holes drilled, with some difficulty, in more or less the intended axle positions, and getting it right in the end wasn't easy. The A4 method is more soundly based. I worked from one Hornby Chinese loco driven chassis (not the later Railroad / Tornado version with cheap motor) and a spare set of matching wheels and coupling rods, available inexpensively at the time from the now closed East Kent Models.

 

One good way to get the axle holes in the right places in a chassis is to start from the coupling rods. If you have the right diameter jig-axles you can just pop the rods over the narrow ends of the axles and top-hat bearings on the axles will automatically be held at the proper spacings as you solder them into the frames. I had no jig axles to match the diameter of the Hornby axles, so I started out by using the coupling rods to mark axle centres on two spare strips of brass. I then drilled out close-fitting axle holes in those strips, and opened the holes out at one edge so that I had two strips that would slip / hook tightly over two adjacent axles, holding the axles at the exact spacing to match the coupling rods:

post-3445-0-99393900-1520027071.jpgpost-3445-0-85191900-1520027089.jpg

 

The next job was to saw and file out the parts of the chassis that previously carried the rear frames, carrying wheels and drawbar.

post-3445-0-48431600-1520027443_thumb.jpg

 

Another piece of brass was then folded up into a channel, with large cut-outs around the intended new axle position, and was screwed and epoxied firmly in place in the available space at the rear of the chassis block, taking every care to get it as straight, level and square as possible. Top hat bearings to suit the new axle, or pieces of brass tube (I forget which) were also soldered into some loose brass plates a little large than the cut-outs in the main channel. A suitable spring that would fit over the axle and compress down to about 10-12mm length was also recruited from the tools and spares box.

post-3445-0-96503400-1520027776_thumb.jpg

 

The bearing plates were then fitted over the axle of the new wheel set, with spring between, and the wheel set placed in the space in the main channel with the spring pushing the bearing plates against the inner faces of the channel. Those original axle-spacing strips were then hooked over the two adjacent axles outside the frames and behind the wheels. Here's the whole lot lashed to piece of straight and true track with heavy-gauge rail that doesn't bend when being handled (good old Hornby Dublo).

post-3445-0-05749400-1520028270_thumb.jpg

 

On turning the whole lot over, this view within also provided access for soldering the axle bearing plates to the inner faces of the main channel piece, setting the bearings correctly to produce a level, square axle spaced at true rod-centres from the adjacent axle. I must have got something right because it ran perfectly smoothly, and does not crab, snake, wobble or derail without very good reason.

post-3445-0-10682000-1520028591_thumb.jpg

 

You'll notice other pieces of brass soldered in there too, in readiness for screwing the rear frame unit back on. It's a matter of thinking it through as far in advance as you can, but there's bound to be something you didn't quite anticipate at some stage.

 

Anyway, that's probably enough for now of whacky loco construction on the Grantham thread.....

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Am I right in thinking that your Thomas Cranmer, superb piece of kit!!!!!, was what Bullied intended to build,

 

Sort of, but I gather Bulleid's original drawings for the 2-8-2 boat-train hauler were somewhat different in general appearance even compared to the original look of the Merchant Navy class, and my loco is of course an adaptation of a kit for one of the light Pacifics which had an even later version of the Bulleid style.

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I think the best favour I can do is to show briefly the key points in extending the A4 4-6-2 chassis as that is the more refined, or technically "better" chassis of the two. The Bulleid 2-8-2 is more of a basic plastic and resin lump with holes drilled, with some difficulty, in more or less the intended axle positions, and getting it right in the end wasn't easy. The A4 method is more soundly based. I worked from one Hornby Chinese loco driven chassis (not the later Railroad / Tornado version with cheap motor) and a spare set of matching wheels and coupling rods, available inexpensively at the time from the now closed East Kent Models.

 

One good way to get the axle holes in the right places in a chassis is to start from the coupling rods. If you have the right diameter jig-axles you can just pop the rods over the narrow ends of the axles and top-hat bearings on the axles will automatically be held at the proper spacings as you solder them into the frames. I had no jig axles to match the diameter of the Hornby axles, so I started out by using the coupling rods to mark axle centres on two spare strips of brass. I then drilled out close-fitting axle holes in those strips, and opened the holes out at one edge so that I had two strips that would slip / hook tightly over two adjacent axles, holding the axles at the exact spacing to match the coupling rods:

attachicon.gifSTA75386 wheelbase distance pieces.jpgattachicon.gifSTA75388 dist pieces test, rods on dead ctrs.jpg

 

The next job was to saw and file out the parts of the chassis that previously carried the rear frames, carrying wheels and drawbar.

attachicon.gifSTA75389rmw.JPG

 

Another piece of brass was then folded up into a channel, with large cut-outs around the intended new axle position, and was screwed and epoxied firmly in place in the available space at the rear of the chassis block, taking every care to get it as straight, level and square as possible. Top hat bearings to suit the new axle, or pieces of brass tube (I forget which) were also soldered into some loose brass plates a little large than the cut-outs in the main channel. A suitable spring that would fit over the axle and compress down to about 10-12mm length was also recruited from the tools and spares box.

attachicon.gifSTA75400rmw.jpg

 

The bearing plates were then fitted over the axle of the new wheel set, with spring between, and the wheel set placed in the space in the main channel with the spring pushing the bearing plates against the inner faces of the channel. Those original axle-spacing strips were then hooked over the two adjacent axles outside the frames and behind the wheels. Here's the whole lot lashed to piece of straight and true track with heavy-gauge rail that doesn't bend when being handled (good old Hornby Dublo).

attachicon.gifSTA75407rmw.jpg

 

On turning the whole lot over, this view within also provided access for soldering the axle bearing plates to the inner faces of the main channel piece, setting the bearings correctly to produce a level, square axle spaced at true rod-centres from the adjacent axle. I must have got something right because it ran perfectly smoothly, and does not crab, snake, wobble or derail without very good reason.

attachicon.gifSTA75409rmw.jpg

 

You'll notice other pieces of brass soldered in there too, in readiness for screwing the rear frame unit back on. It's a matter of thinking it through as far in advance as you can, but there's bound to be something you didn't quite anticipate at some stage.

 

Anyway, that's probably enough for now of whacky loco construction on the Grantham thread.....

do you have a whacky loco (or indeed any ) thread ?
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I had no idea that Thomas Cranmer had been sadly missed.

 

I had in mind the same use as your little blue and red friend.... winding up shedmasters and photographers.

 

I was presented with a miniature replica which can of course do a tour of our various residences over time.

 

I was thinking more of the various intricate arrangements I've been party to in the past to return them in time for the next show.

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  • 3 weeks later...
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                                S H O W   A L E R T!             S H O W   A L E R T!

 

                            and exciting NEW announcement! (we're crushing grapes here)

 

Very much looking forward to being part of this coming weekend's Warner's / MRC London show at Ally Pally. I've been to the show several times before as a paying punter so it'll be great to be part of the event this year. The venue is just stunning, being a historic building in its own right and we are of course right alongside the very mainline that we seek to represent (albeit a 100 miles further north!) where the streamliners would just be getting into their stride on their dash northwards. 

 

attachicon.gifDSC01946.JPG

This however is the less glamorous side of layout preparation!

 

attachicon.gifDSC01943.JPG

Last weekend was spent hosting the chief electrical engineer who came armed with all sorts of strange gizmos like resistors, LEDs and solder-suckers to attend to some, if not essential, then desirable alterations and improvements that have been building up on the 'to do' list for some time. None of this will be apparent visually on the public side of the layout but should (we hope) incrementally make the operations that little bit slicker and help reduce some 'oops!' moments.

 

attachicon.gifDSC01948.JPG

Aside from that, locos have to be cleaned to ensure they're in best possible running condition. You'll have to take my word for it but the loco lying prostrate in the servicing cradle is none other than No.4479 hiself.

 

attachicon.gifDSC01942.JPG

This however should be a visual improvement. The big new signal at the south end now has its distant arms fitted and they all work in conjunction with the corresponding 'home' arms at Yard Box. Again, some clever electrickery is involved here (which I do partly understand!)

 

See you at the show if you're planning to be there.

 

And if you aren't and are perhaps one of our more distant followers or otherwise unable to attend a show then the next announcement might just be for you:

 

In conjunction with Andy Wilkinson of Shootingimage Ltd, we have been working towards producing a DVD presentation of the layout. As well as his interest in the hobby, Andy is a professional video maker and has very kindly applied his full array of 'kit' to this project to produce a lasting momento of the layout as well as something for anyone interested to enjoy. The full DVD runs for 51 minutes - here is a little spoiler to whet your appetite:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hbmNc73S6GI&feature=youtu.be

 

The first 50 copies will be available to purchase at Ally Pally and we will aim to have copies with us at all future shows going forward. If you are interested in a copy and are unlikely to be able to catch us at a show them please PM me in the first instance and I'll let you know how to go about acquiring one. The only proviso I'll mention up front is do bear with us in processing any requests at least initially in case we get inundated. We will print as many as we need and I will periodically highlight its availability on the thread.

 

Otherwise, hope you enjoy it as much as we enjoyed making it - and my grateful thanks to Andy for putting in the lion's share of the effort to make the DVD available.

As a distant follower I look forward to seeing the sixth arm on that signal. Oh, and I'm interested in the video too...

Edited by St Enodoc
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Lovely signals AND ballast.

 

As a non-participant this time around, I'm looking forward to the armchair, the foot stool, freshly brewed coffee, cake and all the usual home comforts over the weekend.

Not the comfy chair?????

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Very nice video Graham! I certainly would like to pick a DVD up at some point....does J. Wealleans of the goods department make an appearance? Or does he stay out of sight hiding behind the fiddle yard? ;)

Edited by 9793
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