Kernow Models D6xx Update

[Keith George]

I hope they eventually do the BSYP D602, they'd have another sale with me if they did.

Neil

 

Sorry to have to ask but what is a BSVP ?

 

Keith.

[tractionman]

Blue small yellow panel.

 

All the best,

 

Keith

[DJM Dave]

Why can’t I add three “agrees”?

I've added them for you.....;-)

 

https://youtu.be/T6fVDAjs9f0

[No Decorum]

I've added them for you.....;-)

 

 Thank you, most kind. It goes to show that nothing is good that cannot be better. Until I saw that, I thought that the bodywork of the 68s was very good.

[Keith George]

Blue small yellow panel.

 

All the best,

 

Keith

 

To Keith from Keith. Thank you very much for the enlightenment.

[TEDDYBEAR D9521]

Sorry chaps sort of lost interest after 7 years and don't think I can justify paying full money for something that might never turn up.

 

Yea i agree or be as much use as the Dapol Westerns turned out to be 

[Ian Hargrave]

Yea i agree or be as much use as the Dapol Westerns turned out to be

 

That's rather a sour and negative statement.Maybe you might like to explain it for the benefit of the rest of us.I believe from what you say that you won't be buying one of these ?

[DJM Dave]

Sorry chaps sort of lost interest after 7 years and don't think I can justify paying full money for something that might never turn up.

I'm not sure what I've been working on or indeed what is now in the tool room then?

Ah, it might be that block of vaporware I had hanging around the bottom of my cupboard, but it looks strangely like a D600 loco to me.

 

Cheers

Dave

[SRman]

I'm not sure what I've been working on or indeed what is now in the tool room then?

Ah, it might be that block of vaporware I had hanging around the bottom of my cupboard, but it looks strangely like a D600 loco to me.

 

Cheers

Dave

 

Yeah. Save the vapourware for putting into some steam locos later!

[Clive Mortimore]

I might buy one, still haven't made up my mind.

 

I am lucky I already have one and a nearly finished one. Both converted from Hornby class 29s. I know some people who brought the Silver Fox model, I could of done but the thought of justifying another one for layouts where they didn't run sort of won the day. Hence my reluctance to say yes at the moment regarding the Kernow one. If it is nice and the bank balance right then might increases to a big may be.

 

I did start to scratchbuild one, but that donated its noses to the converted 29s. For those who are fed up with waiting there alternatives as I have mentioned. Or be patient, they are only model trains not the most important thing in life. Unless you are like Dave and make your living out of them.

[Gwiwer]

Yea i agree or be as much use as the Dapol Westerns turned out to be 

 

As I said before it would be unrealistic to expect to please everyone all of the time but for my money the Dapol Westerns are among the very best OO RtR locos we have seen.  Yes they sometimes had a few minor issues (such as mine derailing which was caused by the very fine tolerances in the design not being happy with my track-laying) but they run well, pull well, look exactly like a Western and in my case are among the most useful locos I own.  Other opinions may be available.

[TEDDYBEAR D9521]

That's rather a sour and negative statement.Maybe you might like to explain it for the benefit of the rest of us.I believe from what you say that you won't be buying one of these ?

 

No I won't be buying one.

 

Dave said that the Westerns were going to be the best I had 3 of them and not one of them were any good too many faults so I stuck to my Heljan ones and as for

 

D6XX I have Silverfox models with Bachman motors.  

Edited February 27, 2017 by TEDDYBEAR D9521

[Kelly]

No I won't be buying one.

 

Dave said that the Westerns were going to be the best I had 3 of them and not one of them were any good too many faults so I stuck to my Heljan ones and as for

 

D6XX I have Silverfox models with Bachman motors.

It is your right to decide whether you want one of these or not. Bringing up the western in a thread about the kernow 6xx doesn't really help anyone and just makes you look bitter.

 

Who knows when they come out you might change your mind, until then you can stick to your decision not to pay now or pre order.

[LBRJ]

As I said before it would be unrealistic to expect to please everyone all of the time but for my money the Dapol Westerns are among the very best OO RtR locos we have seen.  Yes they sometimes had a few minor issues (such as mine derailing which was caused by the very fine tolerances in the design not being happy with my track-laying) but they run well, pull well, look exactly like a Western and in my case are among the most useful locos I own.  Other opinions may be available.

 

Very good point there where you freely admit your track laying may be somewhat at fault, partly to blame....

 

I wonder just how many purchasers really do expect something that is a pretty fine tolerance machine to run over what is effectively the levelness equivalent of  a pair of corduroy trouser legs?

A chain always snaps at the weakest point, and I think that is often the bit that we do.....

[The Johnster]

I might buy one, still haven't made up my mind.

 

I am lucky I already have one and a nearly finished one. Both converted from Hornby class 29s. I know some people who brought the Silver Fox model, I could of done but the thought of justifying another one for layouts where they didn't run sort of won the day. Hence my reluctance to say yes at the moment regarding the Kernow one. If it is nice and the bank balance right then might increases to a big may be.

 

I did start to scratchbuild one, but that donated its noses to the converted 29s. For those who are fed up with waiting there alternatives as I have mentioned. Or be patient, they are only model trains not the most important thing in life. Unless you are like Dave and make your living out of them.

 

 

 

Only model trains?  Not the most important thing in life?  Go to your room immediately young man, and think about what you've just done!

[Ryde-on-time]

I might buy one, still haven't made up my mind.

 

I am lucky I already have one and a nearly finished one. Both converted from Hornby class 29s...................................

 

That's a conversion of pretty epic proportions 

[No Decorum]

I'm not sure what I've been working on or indeed what is now in the tool room then?

Ah, it might be that block of vaporware I had hanging around the bottom of my cupboard, but it looks strangely like a D600 loco to me.

 

Cheers

Dave

Oh.  Not the Bulleid Diesels, then?

[DJM Dave]

Track laying and quality thereof is a whole new topic that deserves a three on RMW of its own.

 

I have come across lots of peripheral who say 'their Thrace laying is perfect' , and when actually tested with a flat edge are found to have dips and boww or kinks in the rails. Or who say that all their other loco's go over a set of points perfectly but xyz loco stalls or falters, yet don't seem to consider point wear, or the plague that is insulfrog points, dirt build up, type cleaning, etc.

 

Now I cannot cast the first stone here because god knows I can't lay track for toffee, so cheat and simply superglue it down. However in general I always check the track first before blaming a loco irrespective of how many loco's sail through without a stutter.

 

Like I say, it's a whole new thread but one that could be of invaluable use to all modellers, be it hand built track or RTP variety.

 

Cheers

Dave

[JSpencer]

Real life track is not perfectly flat either, which is why suspension is used.

 

When change in incline arrives, it causes a dip, most models cope but a few will not. The stiffest, most solid model out there is the motor bogie on Hornby's 4-VEP, if that copes with your track - anything will.

 

No problem with the Dapol western for me, but there are a couple of small steam locos released last year giving me surprising headaches. One has too much weight concentrated aft causing the front to lift off going forwards over tight curves, the other having zero down play on the front bogie meaning it does not like the start of descents.

Edited February 27, 2017 by JSpencer

[Roy Langridge]

Am I the only one that wonders sometime if these people that take great delight in stating how they are not now going to purchase something never had any intention of doing so in the first place?

 

I have no intention of buying salmon from Sainsburys tonight it is over priced and takes up too much room in the fridge - I felt that I should tell you this despite the fact that I can't stand the stuff

 

Roy

Edited February 27, 2017 by Roy Langridge

[chris p bacon]

Am I the only one that wonders sometime if these people that take great delight in stating how they are not now going to purchase something never had any intention of doing so in the first place?

 

I have no intention of buying salmon from Sainsburys tonight it is over priced and takes up too much room in the fridge - I fell that I should tell you this despite the fact that I can't stand the stuff

 

Roy

I purchased some Salmon and found it was perfect, in fact I went back and purchased more which I'm going to have with chips......dcc....

Edited February 27, 2017 by chris p bacon

[Phil Bullock]

Track laying and quality thereof is a whole new topic that deserves a three on RMW of its own.

 

I have come across lots of peripheral who say 'their Thrace laying is perfect' , and when actually tested with a flat edge are found to have dips and boww or kinks in the rails. Or who say that all their other loco's go over a set of points perfectly but xyz loco stalls or falters, yet don't seem to consider point wear, or the plague that is insulfrog points, dirt build up, type cleaning, etc.

 

Now I cannot cast the first stone here because god knows I can't lay track for toffee, so cheat and simply superglue it down. However in general I always check the track first before blaming a loco irrespective of how many loco's sail through without a stutter.

 

Like I say, it's a whole new thread but one that could be of invaluable use to all modellers, be it hand built track or RTP variety.

 

Cheers

Dave

 

And our Dapol Wessies run fine on Abbotswood - just look at the state of the trackwork on that on recent videos!

 

Phil

[Kelly]

Track work quality is a whole other bag of worms that could explode at any moment, as evidenced by other threads.

 

Prototypical track isn't flat though, which is why suspension is often added for p4 as it adds a bit more realism.

[No Decorum]

Speaking of Westerns and suspension: although not working the springs were actual spirals helixes rather than the usual half-round solid moulding. Very impressive.

[The Johnster]

There might be such a thing as being too realistic; if you reproduced the suspension of a 'Western' correctly you would have recreated the violent vertical oscillation that occurred between 55 and 65mph...

 

Most rtr models have only basic compensation/springing/suspension if you are lucky, and the vast majority of steam outline locos are completely rigiid in the vertical plane.  A choice which should be made at the planning stage of a layout is whether to employ some sort of compensated chassis, and for the majority of people I would have thought that rtr rigid is the way they will go, for reasons of cost, time, lack of skill in chassis building, or all sorts of other reasons, in my case that I had a collection of rtr locos which I was reasonably happy with.  

 

If you go down the rtr route, then some care in tracklaying is required.  It isn't rocket science; you simply need to check that the underside of the track is free of detritus when you put it down, along with the surface it is to be laid on, so it will sit flat on the baseboard or whatever underlay you are using (I glue directly to the baseboard).  Try to avoid pointwork over baseboard joins, and if you are using gradients, keep the track ends away from the actual top/bottom of the sloping part to give a vertical transition curve, and your running should be pretty good without much extra effort.  The other thing is to make sure that the track joins are smooth, with no kinks or angles, and for this reason it is important to pin or clamp the track in position until it is permanently fixed so that it doesn't flex or move on you when you're not looking while you are fiddling with the other end. 

 

Scale locos on tight curves may give you some problems, as might lock buffering on tight reverse curves if you use scale couplings, but most stuff will be fine down to radius 3 if you do not race around it!  I would prefer to use setrack for any curve sharper than about 30 inches radius as flexi is difficult to keep from springing ot a transition shape that can be very sharp at the centre of the curve, even to the extent of pulling the rails out of gauge.

 

Real track is often not laid anything like as carefully unless it is on a high speed main line, and even there may be liable to subsidence or soil creep; look at the Midland's Erewash Valley Main Line, designed for fast running but never capable of it.  Track in sidings and yards is often appalling, and on industrial sites, particularly NCB, even worse.  We had a driver at Canton, outstationed to Cardiff Docks, who claimed that there were some places where he could tell he was off the road because the ride improved. The recreation of this on fine scale shunting problem/micro layouts is a joy to behold at exhibitions, and must be great fun to model, but it requires compensated chassis on all vehicles using the layout to achieve reliable running.

 

Nothing to do with D600s, except that they need good track as well!

Edited February 27, 2017 by The Johnster