Wright writes.....

[cctransuk]

23 4F mods 23 changing numbers.jpg

 

... The problems with a transfer is evident in the halo around the shedplate. ...

Comments, please. 

 

Tony,

 

Comments (intended constructively) on your waterslide transfer application technique.

 

Why not trim more of the carrier film? It'll be much less intrusive if you do.

 

Apply waterslide transfers, especially these tiny ones, directly into wet Klear lacquer pre-painted locally onto the intended location. Follow transfer application immediately, whilst the undercoat is still wet, with a local overcoat of Klear. The transfer is then effectively encased in a single application of Klear. When dry, apply your chosen finish; I start with a light spray of Testors Dullcote.

 

Works for me - and I naturally use waterslide transfers almost exclusively!

 

Regards,

John Isherwood,

Cambridge Custom Transfers.

[nerron]

Here's a posed shot taken in the fiddle yard on the current St Enodoc layout by my friend David Lord, which shows a selection of Slater's front numberplates. Sorry about the lack of headlamps - fitting steel brackets to mount lamps fitted with micro-magnets is on the to-do list.

 

 

John,

Good to see St Enodoc underway. For a fleeting moment I thought you had gone EM such is the visual effect of SMP track,particularly under the Grange.

[Tony Wright]

Tony,

 

Comments (intended constructively) on your waterslide transfer application technique.

 

Why not trim more of the carrier film? It'll be much less intrusive if you do.

 

Apply waterslide transfers, especially these tiny ones, directly into wet Klear lacquer pre-painted locally onto the intended location. Follow transfer application immediately, whilst the undercoat is still wet, with a local overcoat of Klear. The transfer is then effectively encased in a single application of Klear. When dry, apply your chosen finish; I start with a light spray of Testors Dullcote.

 

Works for me - and I naturally use waterslide transfers almost exclusively!

 

Regards,

John Isherwood,

Cambridge Custom Transfers.

Thanks John,

 

Comments gratefully received.

 

You're right; it would have been a good idea to have taken more of the carrier film off, but the shedplates are so tiny (to my nearer-to-end-of-seventh-decade eyes), that I tend to lean towards caution, just in case I nick the actual plate.

 

I've never seen the application of Klear described in transfers' instructions, so your technique is new to me. Could it work, though, for front numberplates? Perhaps for those all in one piece, but what about those where maybe three bits of a number have to be joined together? 

 

In just about every case of a transfer sheet of 4mm BR front numbers, I've never found the actual loco number I need. With named locos, I'll often have used the etched plate provided in the pack, but since many of those have the wrong font I'm changing over steadily to Ian's. One might have got, say, 40 ER loco numbers on a sheet - a random selection of classes and numbers. I'm not accusing transfer manufacturers of being anything but splendid servants of the hobby, but it is frustrating when, say, a number ending in '03' is not present, when 60002, 60502, 60902, 61302, 63702, etc, are (an extreme scenario, I admit - but one born out of experience). I, of course, would have wanted, say, 63603, and there also wasn't a 36 anywhere on the sheet as well. So, 63 from one number, 60 from another and a 3 from another. At best, then, a number has to be joined together from two pieces - very often in my case from three. Would the Klear work in those circumstances? 

 

That's why I like Ian's so much. Every loco in a class is catered for, often with both styles of '6s' and '9s'. They're simplicity itself to cut out (with care, of course, and the aid of a magnifying device - old eyes, again!), to run a felt-tip round the edge (again with care) and to apply with the tiniest dab of PVA (I use Kristal Klear). That must be a simpler way than piecing together bits of transfers with pre- and post-applications of Kear. Or, am I doing transfer manufacturers a disservice by being ignorant of the fact that they now do sheets of front numbers for every single loco in every single BR class? Or will do eventually?

 

Many thanks again for your input and advice.

 

Regards,

 

Tony.

Edited October 2, 2014 by Tony Wright

[coachmann]

What on earth happened to poor 63786's running plate Tony? 

[cctransuk]

Thanks John,

 

Comments gratefully received.

 

You're right; it would have been a good idea to have taken more of the carrier film off, but the shedplates are so tiny (to my nearer-to-end-of-seventh-decade eyes), that I tend to lean towards caution, just in case I nick the actual plate.

 

I've never seen the application of Klear described in transfers' instructions, so your technique is new to me. Could it work, though, for front numberplates? Perhaps for those all in one piece, but what about those where maybe three bits of a number have to be joined together? 

 

In just about every case of a transfer sheet of 4mm BR front numbers, I've never found the actual loco number I need. With named locos, I'll often have used the etched plate provided in the pack, but since many of those have the wrong font I'm changing over steadily to Ian's. One might have got, say, 40 ER loco numbers on a sheet - a random selection of classes and numbers. I'm not accusing transfer manufacturers of being anything but splendid servants of the hobby, but it is frustrating when, say, a number ending in '03' is not present, when 60002, 60502, 60902, 61302, 63702, etc, are (an extreme scenario, I admit - but one born out of experience). I, of course, would have wanted, say, 63603, and there also wasn't a 36 anywhere on the sheet as well. So, 63 from one number, 60 from another and a 3 from another. At best, then, a number has to be joined together from two pieces - very often in my case from three. Would the Klear work in those circumstances? 

 

That's why I like Ian's so much. Every loco in a class is catered for, often with both styles of '6s' and '9s'. They're simplicity itself to cut out (with care, of course, and the aid of a magnifying device - old eyes, again!), to run a felt-tip round the edge (again with care) and to apply with the tiniest dab of PVA (I use Kristal Klear). That must be a simpler way than piecing together bits of transfers with pre- and post-applications of Kear. Or, am I doing transfer manufacturers a disservice by being ignorant of the fact that they now do sheets of front numbers for every single loco in every single BR class? Or will do eventually?

 

Many thanks again for your input and advice.

 

Regards,

 

Tony.

 

Tony,

 

The printed paper numbers look superb - I've nothing but praise for them.

 

The multi-application waterslide technique would work - it'd just take longer as I'd apply each section in turn, starting from the centre character. I'd allow drying time in between sections; (which isn't long with Klear).

 

That said, I don't offer BR steam loco number transfers specifically because everyone would want different numbers. I can't see anyone wanting to pay the inevitable cost of, say, the full set of numbers for a ex-LMS 4F, just to number a couple of locos.

 

I was persuaded, though, to offer the original style of BR diesel loco numbers, and I was careful to select the printed numbers to enable most numbers to be produced from just a couple of sections.

 

Of course, I am able to print my own numbering requirements as one piece transfers; complete with power classifications and sometimes even lining panelling or black background overlay patches. Such are the benefits of being a transfer producer.

 

Regards,

John.

[Tony Wright]

What on earth happened to poor 63786's running plate Tony? 

It's the way it arrived in its box, Larry.

 

Several Hornby O1s had this problem at source, and the ski-jump front footplating and valance. 63652 isn't as bad, but it's still evident.

 

I don't know whether the plastic is too thin or too flexible, exacerbated by the body being too-tightly attached, resulting in the footplate deflecting both sides of the motion support bracket. The problem is it's now in the plastic's 'memory', so any attempts to bend it back don't appear to succeed.

 

With regard to the ski-jump front, what a pity it isn't the other way round. Innumerable pictures exist of ex-GC 2-8-0s of all varieties/rebuilds with their front buffers mournfully drooping downwards, with a great big kink in the valancing. Rough shunting? 

[manna]

G'Day Gents

 

Due to a very heavy shunt, it should be 'carded' one trip only, 'To Works'.

 

manna

[Corbs]

Hmm... Would gentle (REALLY gentle) use of some heat - like a hairdryer or heat gun (on low setting) be able to warm the plastic to enable it to be bent back? Would that wreck the model?

Edited October 2, 2014 by Corbs

[St Enodoc]

Thanks again, John.

 

You must be very patient, making up the plates from (I assume) individual Slater's numbers. They do look good, but the 'Grange' has a curly '6', which I don't think any ex-GWR locos ever received (is this true?). Every ex-SR loco did though, and the 'wrong' style of '9'. 

Yes, each number is applied individually to black styrene sheet, then painted and the fronts sanded when dry before the sheet is trimmed to size. You have to be in the mood - like filing point blades. Almost as much fun was making up cabside plates using Peter Thatcher's individual brass numbers and backing plates. I only tried that once...

 

There is no choice of shape with the Slater's numbers, and the 3 is wrong as well, but in the 1970s as I said there weren't many options.

 

The 42xx in the background was weathered by the late Paul Fletcher by the way.

[Mallard60022]

these plates are superior in appearance to etched ones, plastic ones and transfer ones. 

......................................................................................................................................................

 

Comments, please. 

 

Tony, has anyone suggested a 'lending  library' for these number sheets? In my experience with many other decal sheets (and I know this was discussed on this community web many moons ago) one uses one or two numbers and then the rest sit in a drawer for ever.  Maybe someone else would be able to get 'their' required number?  I don't think this would really eat into Pacific's sales; in fact it might increase them due to further viewings of their products adorning more folks' locomotives.

P

[jwealleans]

I've done a similar thing with HMRS transfers, exchanging otherwise unused 'W' and 'S' carriage lettering prefixes for much-needed 'E's.

[2ManySpams]

I've done a similar thing with HMRS transfers, exchanging otherwise unused 'W' and 'S' carriage lettering prefixes for much-needed 'E's.

Do the police know you are trading in Es?

 

(sorry, too good to miss)

[jwealleans]

Yes and Neil Rushby is my main dealer.

[Tony Wright]

Hmm... Would gentle (REALLY gentle) use of some heat - like a hairdryer or heat gun (on low setting) be able to warm the plastic to enable it to be bent back? Would that wreck the model?

I don't know, though it might be worth a try.

 

Having renumbered it and weathered it, it was only when I photographed it in tight perspective that the the extent of the wobbly footplate was evident. By then indolence towards it was apparent, and I was busy with the next project. On the layout it isn't that apparent as it trundles by on 40-odd wagons, so it'll probably remain with a bendy footplate forever. 

[Tony Wright]

 

these plates are superior in appearance to etched ones, plastic ones and transfer ones. 

......................................................................................................................................................

 

Comments, please. 

 

Tony, has anyone suggested a 'lending  library' for these number sheets? In my experience with many other decal sheets (and I know this was discussed on this community web many moons ago) one uses one or two numbers and then the rest sit in a drawer for ever.  Maybe someone else would be able to get 'their' required number?  I don't think this would really eat into Pacific's sales; in fact it might increase them due to further viewings of their products adorning more folks' locomotives.

P

 

Phil, I don't know, though it sounds a good idea. 

 

Because the sheets are relatively cheap - £4.50 for a single sheet (V2s, say) and £6.00 for a double ('Austerities'), then folk might not be too bothered. They might be ideal for clubs, though, or for the likes of those who need several locos of the same class. 

 

Yes, £6.00 is a lot for one 'Austerity' number, but if you need several, or mates need one or two, then the sheet is good value. I have no idea what a single etched plate costs but I imagine it must be around £1.50, or more? If, like me, you have five 'Austerities', say, then the paper plates are good value then. Or a dozen 4Fs (or more?). 

 

What a comparative transfer sheet costs, I have no idea.

 

Obviously, the cost is not in the materials - white paper and some ink - but in the time taken to create every number, especially where alternative fonts are supplied as well. They come out at good value, too, when several classes are all on one sheet - the smaller ER tanks, for instance.

 

Have a look at pacificmodels.co.uk.

 

As I say, I'm a good friend of Ian Wilson's and I use his numbers exclusively now (even when an etched plate is supplied in a named set), so some might say I'm biased. 

[micklner]

Probably the photo but is the O1's Motion Bracket too high therefore pushing the footplate skywards ? It seems to be a problem with the first ones issued. My LNER version luckily is dead straight and they are a lovely Loco too.

 

Re Decals I have never heard of using Klear on the surface before then lay a decal down on top, the big problem is Klear dries very quick and you won't have a lot of time to adjust the position on the model. I simply lay the decal onto a gloss surface and then if needed Micro Sol or Micro Set setting solution to draw the decal down onto the surface.

[davidw]

Tony,

 

Regarding  the O1 problem a possible fix is offered here:  http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/880/entry-11342-8fs-%E2%80%93-heavy-goods-engines-the-Hornby-o1/

Edited October 2, 2014 by davidw

[Barry O]

Blue diesel seen at Little Bytham!

 

A long time ago Stoke Summit was exhibited at BRM Doncaster in Blue Diesel era. I took along a blue diesel ... and after discussions with Tony the same loco has appeared as a visitor to Little Bytham today where another good day was had (thanks to all involved especially Tony and Mo)

 

 

and it did trundle around quite quickly with a long freight train....

 

Baz

Edited October 2, 2014 by Barry O

[gr.king]

For what little it's worth, I've found that when small transfers exhibit "silvering" or "blooming" of the clear film (separation of the film from the paint surface permitting refection from the interface between the back of the film and the air gap beneath) it is possible prior to overall varnishing to overcome the problem by painting thinned varnish over / around the affected transfer and using the brush to massage the surface of the transfer until the underlying air is expelled and varnish drawn in to fill the voids.

[Tony Wright]

Blue diesel seen at Little Bytham!

 

A long time ago Stoke Summit was exhibited at BRM Doncaster in Blue Diesel era. I took along a blue diesel ... and after discussions with Tony the same loco has appeared as a visitor to Little Bytham today where another good day was had (thanks to all involved especially Tony and Mo)

 

E8 to the fore!.jpg

 

and it did trundle around quite quickly with a long freight train....

 

Baz

It did indeed, Barry. 

 

 

I doubt if we could have put together a train long enough without it collapsing inwards on the 180 degree curves at the end. One effect of the flywheels was its complete disregard for my isolating sections at the end of the fiddle yard roads!

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for bringing down these models that you've made/weathered. Thanks as well for bringing the selection of models you have for sale, including the rocket-powered DJH BR Standard Five. I've never seen any loco accelerate so fast or reach such a high speed. A pity, then, that's all it could really do, slow-running proving just about impossible. I wonder who made it.

 

 

 

Thanks, too, for bringing this pair of ex-GC 4-6-0s made by your Dad from scratch. It's work like this which I find most fascinating - the stuff of legend almost to me. 'Proper' loco building in my opinion, using traditional techniques and skills. 

 

 

Speaking of scratch-building, I was very impressed by this B2 (builder unknown?). Despite its current-eating Romford Bulldog motor it ran very well, though it got a bit hot.

 

I think it's what good friends bring with them which I enjoy the most now when they visit (other than the delight in seeing them). One never knows quite what 'goodies' will appear and how they'll perform on LB. Next time, we'll give more of yours a good run.

 

Many thanks for an excellent day yesterday. 

 

More in the next post.

Edited October 3, 2014 by Tony Wright

[cctransuk]

It does nothing of the sort. It's designed to make the carrier film and the decal soften, to allow it to conform to highly irregular surfaces. Neither Microset or Microsol dissolves the carrier film.

 

Quite so - the carrier film remains, but conforms to the contours of the model.

 

My technique of containing the carrier film within a coat of Klear displaces any air from behind the film, and softens the cut edges to the point that they effectively disappear.

 

The Testors Dullcote restores the uniformity of the finish.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

[Tony Wright]

As alluded to in my last post, another splendid day was enjoyed yesterday in the company of very good friends. Along with Barry, three of the Gresley Beat team visited for a day's operation on LB. 

 

 

Ian Wilson looks on at the 'merry' gathering.

 

As also mentioned, several most interesting items appeared which I asked if I could photograph. 

 

 

Rupert Brown has fitted an MJT underframe to this Hornby Gresley, improving it no end and also lifting it up to the correct height. Though the tumbleholme is still too shallow, the correct-width headstocks do make a difference.

 

 

He also brought this Newbold Gauge O Gresley Buffet he's building. It fits perfectly over the 6' on the M&GNR bit.

 

 

A Gauge 3 Gresley bogie also fitted over the two 4' and 6' bits of Peco double track spacing, but the 'overscale' flanges wouldn't go through the 'Vs' of the points!

 

 

Roy Mears brought along this splendid 'Silver Jubilee' set he's made for Grantham from Marc Models' parts. We didn't have a silver A4, so this Gateshead-allocated one in BR condition had to suffice. Because my fiddle yard curves are a twitch tighter than Grantham's the cars' close-articulation caused some binding in places. But, it does look good.

 

 

Finally, I'm continuing with the work of disguising the entrance/exit of the M&GNR towards the east. Because of my insistence on having this bit operational, I have to live with the visually-unsatisfactory right-angle bends at both ends to get it off-/on-stage. 

 

This scene is no more than a mock-up using a dummy card bridge and some of Dave Shakespeare's impressionistic trees. The actual bridge to be modelled (an elegant three-arch structure) still stands and carries a coach road into the Grimesthorpe estate over the remains of the M&GNR.

 

 

 

As can be seen in the shots above, the trackwork underneath would have been just about straight, so my 'selective compression' is in the extreme, especially as the scale distance from the ECML has been shrunk by 80%. Another compromise will have to be the slight widening of the central arch to accommodate the throw-over and overhang of the longest stock. 

 

I wonder whether it's really worth it just to have the MR/M&GNR as a working layout. By having it just as visual break, with the occasional static set placed on top, I could have had the ECML bit absolutely dead scale and not had to try and disguise the right-angle bends on the east-west bit. In hindsight, that might have been better because the compromise on the upper railway is probably too much, especially those right-angle bends. The east-end bridge could then be at the correct angle (though still too near the ECML) and the line west could have gone into a shallow cutting and be represented heading towards Castle Bytham by a carefully-painted backscene. 

 

I'll see what the effect is when it's finished.

Edited October 3, 2014 by Tony Wright

[Tony Wright]

Why the computer mucked up my placement of the pictures in the post above, I have no idea. 

 

I should have also mentioned that the foreground area in the M&GNR scene is yet to be filled in and landscaped. As I say, I'll wait and see what it looks like when it's finished.

[LNER4479]

As alluded to in my last post, another splendid day was enjoyed yesterday in the company of very good friends. Along with Barry, three of the Gresley Beat team visited for a day's operation on LB. 

 

Silver Jubilee.jpg

 

Roy Mears brought along this splendid 'Silver Jubilee' set he's made for Grantham from Marc Models' parts. We didn't have a silver A4, so this Gateshead-allocated one in BR condition had to suffice. Because my fiddle yard curves are a twitch tighter than Grantham's the cars' close-articulation caused some binding in places. But, it does look good.

 

A fine bunch of fellows indeed!

 

Good to see the Silver Jubilee set getting another run out in a natural habitat.

[Barry O]

Tony

 

the M&GN layout is great .. well I enjoyed playing with it yesterday.....

 

Barry