Wright writes.....

[Focalplane]

Here's the state of play of my Cambrian 2-4-0T, with the basic body shape soldered together and test-fitted on the chassis:

 

cambrian2.jpg

 

cambrian3.jpg

 

As is probably evident, the castings are not of the highest quality, with considerable pitting on the tank sides, and missing areas of some of the

other bits - there's a big chunk missing from the front buffer beam - but I'm optimistic that I'll be able to sort things out during the finishing stage.

The fit of some of the bits was also a bit suspect, with quite a lot needing to be removed from the cab parts to get them to fit neatly. But, we'll

get there in the end.

 

I got the chassis assembled quickly, but had some trouble with gear meshing. Thinking back to the nine chassis I've built so far - including this one -

it's occurred to me that nothing's given me so much as trouble as gears and gearboxes. Every chassis that I've made with a drop-in gearbox

(always the DJH one for me) has gone together without a hitch and the running's been generally trouble-free from the start. Wherever I've run

into problems, it's often been related to a fold-up gearbox which needs to be accurately mounted to its motor, and so on. On the other hand,

I've yet to build a chassis that isn't true (more luck than anything else, I'm sure) and once I started doing pickups the way Tony recommends,

I've found them to be trouble-free and effective almost from the first test. It's gearboxes that seem to be my personal bete noire! In this case there seemed

to be an incredibly fine tolerance between too slack a mesh, and too tight. Time will tell whether or not I've got it fixed now, but again I'm sure it'll

come right in the end. If this kit hadn't come with motor and gearbox as part of the package, I'd have probably just used a DJH one and be done

with it. I know they appear expensive but it's worth it, in my opinion, for taking a whole set of potential problems out of the equation.

 

The instructions suggest springing the front pony axle, by the way, but since she seems to hold track well enough as it is, with the wheel just going

along for the ride in an elongated slot, I'm tempted to leave well alone.

 

Hope this is of interest, and thanks as usual to Tony for letting us indulge in this sort of thing on this thread and for encouraging more of us to have a go.

 

Alastair (Barry Ten)

Bravo, Alastair, for tackling this kit. I have decided that white metal really isn't what I want to spend my retirrment fiddling with. Though some kit designers are quite meticulous when it comes to casting quality, many are not.

 

In 7mm scale I have the luxury of several motor gearbox offerings and like you with DJH I am very happy to pay the extra for a set up that works out of the box. My latest build, the MOK 14XXchassis, just started its running in with a Maxon abc gears set up and amazed me.

[Mallard60022]

I'd say Larry Goddard, however I'm uncertain whether he has returned to building for clients full time. Having seen Larry's builds on RMWeb some years ago and more recently, I'd recommend him anytime, however I have no idea of his charges. (see later post by Larry)

The builder, Rocar', mentioned on the Comet site, does superb builds, but the late Geoff Brewin hinted at the fact that the cost was/is high as the standard is so superb.

I know that Rob Sweet, of A Nod to Brent in the Layouts section, has had coaches built for him to a very good standard by someone whose name escapes me at the moment.

There are others of course and we see their work on this thread, but they may not build for 'clients' as a business, or occasional project.

Phil

Edit: Rob tells me his 'chap' Chris Phillips just does the painting for him and I know that Rob builds most of his stuff. It might be worth checking if Chris actually does full builds or just does paint jobs; my apologies.

Ian Willetts as mentioned by Larry.....yes agree. Super builds.

Edited September 12, 2016 by Mallard60022

[Mallard60022]

Briefly, I have never found a SE Finecast loco kit that has duff castings. DJH come a close second. That's the limit of my experience other than messing about with some 'acquired' lumps from other firms of old.

Phil

[jrg1]

Those body castings remind me of the Good Old Days.  It may be convenient to wipe over the blow holes and pits with low-melt solder, and clean up, but I suspect that the casting metal may be of poor quality, making solder rectification difficult.  As for the front buffer beam, I would chop it off, and fabricate a brass one-and the rear one as well.

[Barry Ten]

Those body castings remind me of the Good Old Days.  It may be convenient to wipe over the blow holes and pits with low-melt solder, and clean up, but I suspect that the casting metal may be of poor quality, making solder rectification difficult.  As for the front buffer beam, I would chop it off, and fabricate a brass one-and the rear one as well.

 

I've had a go at filling in some of the pitting and holes with solder, which worked up to a point, but for the rest I've decided to use a thin smear of Squadron Putty, followed by priming, rub down, more putty etc if needed.

[manna]

G'day Gents

 

Never seen a loco with acne, that bad.

 

manna

[coachmann]

I've just had a request from a customer who would like to know of any professional builders of carriage kits.

I'm now semi retired and only do limited work for my regulars. But I can recommend Ian Willetts:-

 

Willetts Scale Models

21 Crony close

Cheddleton

LEEK

Staffs ST13 7JJ

Edited September 11, 2016 by coachmann

[The Fatadder]

going back to the topic of working on models built by someone else, even when the model has been built to a very good standard it can still contain surprises.

 

A while back

I bought a Hall from Geoff's estate, (which has appeared on this thread before). Great to have a loco to remember someone who gave so much help to me in the past. Only thing is a Great crest Western loco was no use on a 1940s layout so a bit of personalising was needed to get it layout ready.

 

After trying to remove the Bachmann printing with my usual microsol method, I found that the model had been varnished over the tender logos (which I think had previously been replaced). Upon removal of the logo a huge patch of varnish came with it (a bit of a shock!) after applying new logos and feathering in the varnish (along with adding new names and numbers) it's now good to go.

 

Interesting to see how even when you get a good one it can still supprise you, at least when you do I all yoursel you know exactly what you are getting.

[Jol Wilkinson]

I've had a go at filling in some of the pitting and holes with solder, which worked up to a point, but for the rest I've decided to use a thin smear of Squadron Putty, followed by priming, rub down, more putty etc if needed.

I have never had much success with model fillers but an acquaintance recently recommended Isopon car body filler. 

[petethemole]

I used to assemble and paint white metal figures, mainly military,  in 75mm and 90mm size, and I used Milliput to fill pitted surfaces. Smooth it over with a wet fingertip and rub down with fine wet'n'dry. Being epoxy it's unlikely to come off, which I've had with model filler.

[micklner]

On deep holes I add superglue to the hole before filling with Squadron putty. The glue stops the Squadron putty from falling out during rubbing down. On the above kit ,which is so bad I would also use car body filler .

 

 

p.s No idea if the boiler is fitted , I would have filled and made good before fitting to Footplate.

Edited September 12, 2016 by micklner

[billbedford]

I'm now semi retired and only do limited work for my regulars. But I can recommend Ian Willetts:-

 

Willetts Scale Models

21 Crony close

Cheddleton

LEEK

Staffs ST13 7JJ

 

 

Thanks, I had forgotten about Ian.

[great central]

Briefly, I have never found a SE Finecast loco kit that has duff castings. DJH come a close second. That's the limit of my experience other than messing about with some 'acquired' lumps from other firms of old.

Phil

 

Ah yes, your 'lumps'.

I've recently started tinkering with one I bought from you a while back, first problem was the odd 'broad gauge' wheelsets! Having bought some 'proper' axles , I set about narrowing the frames so that they fitted under the firebox, then test fitting the cylinders and slidebars, which didn't seem to want to allow clearance for the wheels as well?

So I decided they need packing out a bit, the scrap etch from the tender frames is perfect.

Oh and speaking of the tender, personally I don't use the etch frames, drill and fit bearings direct into the side frames, the wheels included are undersize but unless it looks very wrong I'll live with them as I would have to dismantle the tender to change them now. Also helps to keep the weight down, leaving out a big chunk of the tender bottom and the coal hopper, mine are usually fairly fully coaled anyway.

Figured out just before packing up last night why the loco seems to sit wrong on the frames so that's the first thing tonight, then remove all the 'extra' bits and pieces and pipes.

Have to say though that in general you've done a pretty decent job up to now

[Mallard60022]

Oh blimey. I am undone. Remind me what lump that was dear heart.

Phil

[glo41f]

I cannot but agree that motor gearbox combinations are a black art of our hobby. Sometimes they work beautifully and other times the only thing to do is chuck them out and buy something more substantial. In 7mm we are blessed with a number of suppliers with decent workable solutions. The only one I did not like was the Portescap RG7 which I found annoying with a loud whine when running. I also had one strip the gears which was very difficult to fix. Fortunately another modeller O know loves them so he takes them off my hands and I use ABC gears which are top of the range. 

 

Gosh the Cambrian loco is going to take some work is it not?

 

Martin Long

Edited September 12, 2016 by glo41f

[great central]

Oh blimey. I am undone. Remind me what lump that was dear heart.

Phil

 

Little Engines O1, got to unTyne Dock it, as the saying goes it may take some time. In between all the other things I'm tyring to get done, sorting out the garage beside the house, railway room, cutting the lawn, etc. etc. Then I keep looking at the two (classic) cars that could possibly be retored, as well as keeping everything else going. Really got too much of everything apart from time and money

[Barry O]

Some time ago I acquired (via Tony) a loco built by someone else - an ex GCR A5 4-6-2 Tank engine.

 

I have eventually started to turn it into a BR version

 

 

A lot more to be done before some weathering ..

[Mallard60022]

Little Engines O1, got to unTyne Dock it, as the saying goes it may take some time. In between all the other things I'm tyring to get done, sorting out the garage beside the house, railway room, cutting the lawn, etc. etc. Then I keep looking at the two (classic) cars that could possibly be retored, as well as keeping everything else going. Really got too much of everything apart from time and money

Thanks GC. I'd forgotten that. Same loco, same distractions (except my cars are not classic), different location then!

I wonder how many such 'kits' have been 'revived' this way? I know Tony has done loads, including one of mine and maybe some of the most enjoyable for me to see are a couple of the late Geoff Brewin's unfinished builds.  

It really is very good that someone that has passed away has 'provided' others with something 'to remember them by'. 

Phil

[Mallard60022]

Some time ago I acquired (via Tony) a loco built by someone else - an ex GCR A5 4-6-2 Tank engine.

 

I have eventually started to turn it into a BR version

 

A5 3 quarters view (1280x563).jpg

 

A lot more to be done before some weathering ..

Barry that is a very handsome loco. Am I correct in thinking they used to work out of Nottingham Victoria on Mansfield workings?

Phil

[Focalplane]

I cannot but agree that motor gearbox combinations are a black art of our hobby. Sometimes they work beautifully and other times the only thing to do is chuck them out and buy something more substantial. In 7mm we are blessed with a number of suppliers with decent workable solutions. The only one I did not like was the Portescap RG7 which I found annoying with a loud whine when running. I also had one strip the gears which was very difficult to fix. Fortunately another modeller O know loves them so he takes them off my hands and I use ABC gears which are top of the range. 

 

Gosh the Cambrian loco is going to take some work is it not?

 

Martin Long

Martin

 

I just started to run in my abc gears Maxon motor gearbox on the Modern Outline Kits 14XX. What a delight!

 

Edit to add photo!  The chassis is running with just the driven axle coupled to the motor.  At bottom left you can see the body that has just been started - all tab and slot with very little solder applied yet rock solid.  This is a great kit.

 

Edited September 12, 2016 by Focalplane

[Tony Wright]

Some time ago I acquired (via Tony) a loco built by someone else - an ex GCR A5 4-6-2 Tank engine.

 

I have eventually started to turn it into a BR version

 

A5 3 quarters view (1280x563).jpg

 

A lot more to be done before some weathering ..

Barry,

 

It was built by Andrew Kinsella in LNER condition. What a splendid job you've made of it.

 

Except, you've got the early BR lion facing the wrong way! It always faced forward. Please, if anyone has evidence to the contrary, post it. 

Edited September 12, 2016 by Tony Wright

[micklner]

Front frames on the A5 are AWOL !

[jrg1]

The A5 looks a picture-and a Lincoln engine as well.  Hope the front frames are added to make it outstanding

[Tony Wright]

First, may I please thank all those punters at the Woking Show I spoke to over the weekend when I was acting as part of the Grantham team? 

 

Second, a big 'thank you' to the organisers for putting on a splendid event. 

 

 

 

As usual, I operated the depot and chatted to folk. I hope my 'cock-ups' didn't spoil the enjoyment of spectators too much. The layout is really coming on now. More pictures on the Grantham thread.

 

On other topics...............

 

That Cambrian 2-4-0 looks to be the worst castings I've ever seen. I wouldn't even attempt to build it, so brave on you Alastair. 

 

Gearboxes. My experiences in 4mm.........

 

Fold-up ones can be really tricky to get straight, true and quiet, especially single-stage ones. Exceptions are High Level, though Markits and Comet can be made to run really sweetly. Mr. Duck came today and I hope he'll confirm that fact with regard to the running of a pair of the late Geoff Brewin's locos which both ran like sewing machines. The new B17 also has a Comet 'box in it and that just purred round. 

 

Made up ones by DJH are brilliant in my experience. Later Portescaps are not, a loud whine being emitted. 

Edited September 13, 2016 by Tony Wright

[Dr Gerbil-Fritters]

 

 

Grantham 10 03.jpg

 

Grantham 10 04.jpg

 

 

 

Lovely pictures, wrong flippin' Atlantic again!  I'm going to set up a Facebook page;

 

'Let the Grantham Klondike Free'....