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Wright writes.....


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Frank, I have some spare without the linkage gear as mentioned earlier and I'm sure I'm not going to be using them. They could be a straight replacement for the existing failure with linkage detached and then reattached to the replacement. I am sure your ones arer not all going to fail at the same time.

If you want them that can be arranged as I often attend the Shipley Show.

Sincerely,

Phil

Hi Phil,

That is a kind offer, but as I previously mentioned we have plenty of spare units it’s just that at almost every exhibition we attend I end up crawling under the baseboards to fix or replace a unit. Sod’s law dictating that it is usually under a board where we have stored numerous stock boxes or stacking units.

Thanks for the offer though,

Frank

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The only snag you might have Tony is actually finding Tortoise point motors for sale. I had lots of trouble late last year and found that they were out of stock in many of the usual places and even those that seemed to have them didn't once I tried to order. I heard it was something to do with the importer from USA.

 

A quick example (most options are out of stock): https://www.coastaldcc.co.uk/products/point-motors/

 

At the time I eventually got enough via the generosity of members on here, through second hand offers and one USA member sending me a box of 6 bought on my behalf from a shop over there.

 

The situation may have changed so worth having a good look, phone or Google around.

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The only snag you might have Tony is actually finding Tortoise point motors for sale. I had lots of trouble late last year and found that they were out of stock in many of the usual places and even those that seemed to have them didn't once I tried to order. I heard it was something to do with the importer from USA.

 

Walthers have them on sale at the moment.  https://www.walthers.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=tortoise

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Hi Phil,

That is a kind offer, but as I previously mentioned we have plenty of spare units it’s just that at almost every exhibition we attend I end up crawling under the baseboards to fix or replace a unit. Sod’s law dictating that it is usually under a board where we have stored numerous stock boxes or stacking units.

Thanks for the offer though,

Frank

 

Evening Frank,

 

I do like to stack things under the layout in close proximity to a plausible candidate for failure, having first jimmied out the spring of course.

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In a similar vein, I have three achieving the same aim, and with the same ultimate destination if required.

 

Mike.

Thanks Mike (and Clive),

 

Please let me know how much you want for them (and Clive - not how much anyone wants for Clive!). 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

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I am only young but I've used Cobalt analog for Brighton Junction, the layouts DCC, however I've kept to the conventional method of wiring point motors. All Cobalt's for the scenic section and a mixture of Peco surface mount, standard Peco point motors and Cobalt's for the fiddle yard. As I said I am still rather young compared to most in the hobby but I have never had a problem with the Cobalts, which I think are practically the same as Tortoises, (did i spell that right?). The only fault would be myself wiring them up. 

 

You may have a heart attack when you see my layout Tony when you stay in September, My wiring is not exactly, how can I say, normal. But the trains work so.......

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I am only young but I've used Cobalt analog for Brighton Junction, the layouts DCC, however I've kept to the conventional method of wiring point motors. All Cobalt's for the scenic section and a mixture of Peco surface mount, standard Peco point motors and Cobalt's for the fiddle yard. As I said I am still rather young compared to most in the hobby but I have never had a problem with the Cobalts, which I think are practically the same as Tortoises, (did i spell that right?). The only fault would be myself wiring them up. 

 

You may have a heart attack when you see my layout Tony when you stay in September, My wiring is not exactly, how can I say, normal. But the trains work so.......

I've held back from the conversation in case anyone thinks I'm flying a flag for DCC Concepts - which I'm not, except as a customer - but Jesse makes a good point. The new Cobalts (the ones with iP in the name) are far better than the old ones and have several advantages over Tortoises in my opinion - most notably their smaller physical size and the lack of soldering needed.

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I've held back from the conversation in case anyone thinks I'm flying a flag for DCC Concepts - which I'm not, except as a customer - but Jesse makes a good point. The new Cobalts (the ones with iP in the name) are far better than the old ones and have several advantages over Tortoises in my opinion - most notably their smaller physical size and the lack of soldering needed.

I am also a big fan of Cobalt iP’s, but we are talking about Tony here ;-) I get the impression that good old-fashioned soldering will be seen as a plus for the Tortoise...
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I am also a big fan of Cobalt iP’s, but we are talking about Tony here ;-) I get the impression that good old-fashioned soldering will be seen as a plus for the Tortoise...

A plus indeed!

 

I can't get on with new-fangled things.....................

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I've held back from the conversation in case anyone thinks I'm flying a flag for DCC Concepts - which I'm not, except as a customer - but Jesse makes a good point. The new Cobalts (the ones with iP in the name) are far better than the old ones and have several advantages over Tortoises in my opinion - most notably their smaller physical size and the lack of soldering needed.

 

Thanks for posting this. I'd been wondering about point motors - never having owned a layout that used any - and, after looking at the Cobalts, they appear to be perfect for my needs. A website to stick in the 'Girtby Sea Shopping List' folder, I think. Cheers!

 

Gavin

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A plus indeed!

 

I can't get on with new-fangled things.....................

 

Given that new technology is new-fangled, and previous ways of working are, presumably, old-fangled, does that mean that current technology is simply fangled?

 

"Gavin's layout uses best fangled practice to achieve reliable operation..."

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Given that new technology is new-fangled, and previous ways of working are, presumably, old-fangled, does that mean that current technology is simply fangled?

"Gavin's layout uses best fangled practice to achieve reliable operation..."

How about contemporary-fangled? A bit of a mouthful though. My own current practice is a mix of new, old and contemporary... so pan-fangled?

 

The word fangled is apparently derived from the now obsolete verb to fang, which meant ‘to grasp.

 

Phil

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Isn't it an obsolete word for dress (as in attire)?

 

Newfangled was apparently a derogatory term for those that dressed like fops and embraced whatever new fashion was in vogue.

 

I'm pretty sure it's Shakespearean or from that era.

 

 

 

Jason

Thanks Jason,

 

I'll never be newfangled (sic) then? 

 

I hope not!

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

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Several things have been on my 'to do' list for some time. 

 

At last, some have been done!

 

post-18225-0-66032600-1528207772_thumb.jpg

 

Though shorter than it should be, the 'Leicester' on the top bit of Little Bytham is the principal train. It has a catering car and travels the longest distance (extended to Birmingham at times). It's been anonymous too long, and I've finally fitted a set of Ian Wilson's Pacific Models destination boards to the carriages. These are excellent and well worth the (little) effort in cutting them out, blackening the edges and fixing them in place (with little dabs of PVA). 

 

post-18225-0-70875800-1528208070_thumb.jpg

 

Ivatt 'Flying Pigs' were synonymous with the M&GNR from their construction, and here's one heading an express to the Norfolk coast from the East Midlands. It has an interesting history.........

 

From what I've been told, it was started (scratch-building) some years ago by a chap who subsequently died. It was willed to a friend of his, who did some more work on it, then he died. The next friend it was willed to was involved in a motor accident (after he'd done some more to it), resulting in disability. He then gave it to one of my friends, who asked me to complete it. He told the story so far, and, since I'm not superstitious, I completed it by finishing off the body and tender, and building a chassis for both. I then painted and numbered/lettered the lot. It would seem that one is safe (according to superstition) as long as one owns it, but doesn't do any work on it, or works on it, but doesn't own it. All the work (apart from weathering) was completed over two years ago and I haven't been zapped yet. I weathered it on Monday - another job done!

 

post-18225-0-06884100-1528208641_thumb.jpg

 

A good friend popped round last week for a visit, and brought some tiny (but very-powerful) magnets with him. Any uncoupling on LB had been done previously by using (for a very short time!) tension-locks and latterly by using Sprat & Winkle-fitted wagons, uncoupling them by using a stick pressing down on the couplings. All a bit 'hand of God'. These weeny magnets are the answer. They're only just wider than a sleeper and are superglued to the top of one at strategic places. A lick of paint disguises them very well, and Bob's your uncle. Paul Marshall Potter's lovely little shunter marks the position of two of them. Other items mark the position of the others. They work perfectly. Thanks Michael.

 

My friend looks at this thread, so might indicate from where they can be sourced.

 

Another task completed! 

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Good afternoon Tony,

 

The magnets were obtained from Magnet Expert Ltd (www.first4magnets.com). They are 10 x 5 x 1mm thick N42 Neodymium Magnets with a pull of 0.6kg (North) - reference no. F1051NA-20. They cost £6.64 for 20 including 1st Class P&P.

 

They are self-adhesive on one side but, as we found, the pull is stronger than the adhesive!

 

I am pleased that you are happy with them.

 

Michael

Edited by mdh1950
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A good friend popped round last week for a visit, and brought some tiny (but very-powerful) magnets with him. Any uncoupling on LB had been done previously by using (for a very short time!) tension-locks and latterly by using Sprat & Winkle-fitted wagons, uncoupling them by using a stick pressing down on the couplings. All a bit 'hand of God'. These weeny magnets are the answer. They're only just wider than a sleeper and are superglued to the top of one at strategic places. A lick of paint disguises them very well, and Bob's your uncle. Paul Marshall Potter's lovely little shunter marks the position of two of them. Other items mark the position of the others. They work perfectly. Thanks Michael.

 

My friend looks at this thread, so might indicate from where they can be sourced.

 

Another task completed! 

Do you know if the magnets would be strong enough to activate the decoupling if set at ballast level between the sleepers with a light dusting of ballast sprinkled on top?

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Good afternoon Tony,

 

The magnets were obtained from Magnet Expert Ltd (www.first4magnets.com). They are 10 x 5 x 1mm thick N42 Neodymium Magnets with a pull of 0.6kg (North) - reference no. F1051NA-20. They cost £6.64 for 20 including 1st Class P&P.

 

They are self-adhesive on one side but, as we found, the pull is stronger than the adhesive!

 

I am pleased that you are happy with them.

 

Michael

I am not familiar with the use of magnets, so may I ask please, do these attract or repel? I'd like to use magnets that repel if such things are avilable.

Phil

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The magnets were obtained from Magnet Expert Ltd (www.first4magnets.com). They are 10 x 5 x 1mm thick N42 Neodymium Magnets with a pull of 0.6kg (North) - reference no. F1051NA-20. They cost £6.64 for 20 including 1st Class P&P.

 

They are self-adhesive on one side but, as we found, the pull is stronger than the adhesive!

 

 

Similar items also available here:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20pcs-Rare-Earth-Strong-Magnets-10x5x1mm-N42-NdFeB-Neodymium-DIY-Model-Craft/173135561819?epid=23013729013&hash=item284faf045b:g:d64AAOSwKIdaaipU

 

- not self-adhesive, nor any promise of strength; however a little under two quid must be worth a punt.  Delivery would probably take a week or two since they're in China (though not always - I've had items sent from within the UK despite being advertised as coming from China).  I've yet to have a non-delivery either.

HTH

Brian

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I am not familiar with the use of magnets, so may I ask please, do these attract or repel? I'd like to use magnets that repel if such things are avilable.

Phil

 

I would expect them to only repel if the couplings were also magnetic and the correct orientation of the poles.

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