georgeT Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 Looking forward to the finished loco Rob, what type of bow-pen do you use, as l need to get one, and a decent fine brush for the tricky corner's, keep the picture's coming Rob very interesting, well done, great stuff................ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted February 23, 2012 Author Share Posted February 23, 2012 what type of bow-pen do you use, as l need to get one, Hi George, I have a couple of cheap ones that got from a local art shop and I was also fortunate enough to pick up a brand new Haff set that included a bow compass and pen (plus a few other bit's) for £5, one night when England were playing in the last world Cup - not being interested in 'footie' does have some advantages. So far I have lined out the wheel rims in black and white and plan to go and do the centre bosses next - photo's to follow once the wheels are finshed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted February 23, 2012 Author Share Posted February 23, 2012 Well the wheels are painted and lined. Using Haff bow compasses and following the techniques in Ian Rathbone's book. I have also started on the cab sides but that isn't going quite as well as the wheels. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted February 27, 2012 Author Share Posted February 27, 2012 The saga of the chassis continues but gets nearer to completion. I spent all day yesterday fitting the Ragstone brakes. I had to make some spacer plates to bring the mountings out from the sides of the too narrow frames to make the hangers fit on the ends of the brake beams. Before fitting all the beams etc I tried the wheels in place. To my dismay they wouldn't fit in two ways 1, The wheels physically wouldn't fit between the mountings - this could be got around by filling the mountings. 2, After filling a pair of mountings to enable the wheel to fit in between them and rotate the brake shoes were at such an angle that they would never sit down on the wheels. Now I know why Christian cut the shoes from the hangers and remade the hangers on his A3. In the interests of actually finishing this at some point rather than throwing through the window or putting it away unfinished never to see the light of day again. I decided to compromise by using the DJH shoes and hangers in conjunction with the Ragstone cross beams and my scratch build vacuum cylinders. So here we have it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 That does all look exceedingly tight. Looks to be coming on alright though. It is suprising how close together some of the CME's got the driving wheels. Make things difficult for us modelmakers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 That does all look exceedingly tight. Looks to be coming on alright though. It is suprising how close together some of the CME's got the driving wheels. Make things difficult for us modelmakers. Lucky were not talking " N" gauge . Keep at it Rob, we've all been there mate, I could write a book on my ba**s ups !! ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted February 29, 2012 Author Share Posted February 29, 2012 Still moving steadily forward. I have fabricated a couple of mounting brackets for the brake cylinders and drilled and added the sandboxes. I have some fine micro-bore pipe that I will put into these when I finally assemble it as I am sure if I do it too early they will get bet or snapped off. I also took the opportunity to file and scrape a bit of the front of each brake shoe. I will put a smear of epoxy on them once I am certain that all is running OK to help prevent shorts. I think assembly of the valve gear is next.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Western Star Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 Very nice Rob, do not forget the bogie checks.... best wishes, Graham Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted February 29, 2012 Author Share Posted February 29, 2012 Thanks Graham, That may be tight - a good job I haven't got room for any tight curves (or indeed any curves ). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted February 29, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 29, 2012 I think assembly of the valve gear is next.... Stunning work Rob. After that little lot, the valve gear should be a piece of cake! All the best, Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted March 1, 2012 Author Share Posted March 1, 2012 Thanks Dave, I hope so - to be fair it is all assembled in sections. It just needs putting together on the loco and then a run on the rolling road. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 That does all look exceedingly tight. If you think that's tight try this, a G.W.R. Castle with 6'9" wheels, I normally take about 20 thou. off the flange dia. on these wheels. OzzyO.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted March 2, 2012 Author Share Posted March 2, 2012 Hi Paul, Sadly even if I had room for the lathe, I am not sue I would have the skill to take 20thou of my wheels. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted March 3, 2012 Author Share Posted March 3, 2012 I haven't yet decided which way to go with the chassis but I know I will need to do something. Todays efforts have been on the valve gear. One side assembled and it has been a bit of a challenge to get all the rods to clear each other. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted March 4, 2012 Share Posted March 4, 2012 Looks fine to me. It's in mid-gear though...is that what you wanted? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted March 4, 2012 Author Share Posted March 4, 2012 Sorry Jeff I am not sure what you mean by being in mid gear? Or rather I know what being in mid gear means but not how that is represented on the valve gear if that makes sense? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted March 4, 2012 Share Posted March 4, 2012 But it is not in mid gear. The rod is at the bottom of the link so it is in forward gear. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted March 4, 2012 Author Share Posted March 4, 2012 But it is not in mid gear. The rod is at the bottom of the link so it is in forward gear. Sorry Peter, still no wiser - which rod and link to you refer to? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted March 4, 2012 Share Posted March 4, 2012 But it is not in mid gear. The rod is at the bottom of the link so it is in forward gear. Yes it is, my mistake. I looked at the pivot point, instead of where the rod was. Rob, look at the valvegear: the top part coming out of the TOP of the cylinder is the valve rod. Look at where it crosses/passes through the reversing link, the shallow "C" shaped bit which it passes through at/near it's rear end. If it passes through at the BOTTOM of the "C" we are in forward gear. If it's near the top, we are in reverse gear, if it's in the centre, mid gear. HTH Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted March 4, 2012 Share Posted March 4, 2012 Sorry Peter, still no wiser - which rod and link to you refer to? The bits I am on about are. The radius rod which is the one from the top of the valve to the reverser lift link. and the die block which is the curved part the radius rod goes through( Just above to the left of the centre of the front driving wheel in your photo). If the radius rod is in the middle of the die block that is mid gear loco is going no where. On Your loco I think if at the bottom it is in full forward gear. Right at the top full reverse gear. This makes your loco in forward gear. Hope this has made things easier to understand, or have I just confused things more? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted March 4, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 4, 2012 Hi Rob, Some of these should help with you valvegear assembly; I find it SO much simpler to build a model when I know what all the bits are for! Heres an animation of Walchearts Valve gear in operation and going into reverse. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7mjHzcPABMQ&feature=related Heres a model with reversing valvegear http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gDmRNIJ-2Kk&feature=related Heres a labelled diagram of Walchearts from Wikepedia http://en.wikipedia....erts_valve_gear and this appears to be the same diagram, but animated http://www.mekanizma...valve_gear.html There's masses of this stuff out there, just put Walchearts Animation, or Walchearts Valvegear into Google. Hope this helps, Dave.T Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted March 4, 2012 Share Posted March 4, 2012 Hi Rob, Some of these should help with you valvegear assembly; I find it SO much simpler to build a model when I know what all the bits are for! Heres an animation of Walchearts Valve gear in operation and going into reverse. Heres a model with reversing valvegear Heres a labelled diagram of Walchearts from Wikepedia and this appears to be the same diagram, but animated There's masses of this stuff out there, just put Walchearts Animation, or Walchearts Valvegear into Google. Hope this helps, Dave.T Nice videos I always forget about Youtube as a source of imformation. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted March 4, 2012 Author Share Posted March 4, 2012 Thanks Dave, Despite Jeff and Peter's descriptions above I was still struggling but that model video makes it very clear. I do believe that the video of the model is our very own Scale7JB's J39. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 I do believe that the video of the model is our very own Scale7JB's J39. Sorry to be a bit picky but I thought that a J39 was an inside cylinder 0-6-0. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted March 6, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 6, 2012 It's a K2, look at some of the other videos suggested - working brakes too! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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