Rob Pulham Posted March 6, 2012 Author Share Posted March 6, 2012 Sorry to be a bit picky but I thought that a J39 was an inside cylinder 0-6-0. OzzyO. DOH, Don't mind me - I knew it was JB's but obviously well wide of the mark on what it was. It's a K2, look at some of the other videos suggested - working brakes too! That's the bunny! Cheers Paul. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted March 25, 2012 Author Share Posted March 25, 2012 Despite having finshed this some time ago I was never quite happy with how it ran. I took it along to the test track at Halifax last year and it did get around the circuit but it needed help and the rear wheels didn't actually turn as it ran. When I got home I had a look and realised the despite being sprung the rear axle was sitting at an angle which prevent ted the wheels from touching the rails. Since then because I was doing the workshop and didn't have any track for testing it has sat in my dispklay cupboard. Folllowing on from the success of the Y6 Tram I fitted some new pickups's this time from nickel silver wire and worked on the rear axle untill all was well. i took a bit of video of her in action - I still need to clean the wheels at this point but I am now delighted at how she runs. http://youtu.be/j5iT8pCQ1MI Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 Lovely little engine. A great piece of scratch building Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 Despite having finshed this some time ago I was never quite happy with how it ran. I took it along to the test track at Halifax last year and it did get around the circuit but it needed help and the rear wheels didn't actually turn as it ran. When I got home I had a look and realised the despite being sprung the rear axle was sitting at an angle which prevent ted the wheels from touching the rails. Since then because I was doing the workshop and didn't have any track for testing it has sat in my dispklay cupboard. Folllowing on from the success of the Y6 Tram I fitted some new pickups's this time from nickel silver wire and worked on the rear axle untill all was well. i took a bit of video of her in action - I still need to clean the wheels at this point but I am now delighted at how she runs. http://youtu.be/j5iT8pCQ1MI Glad to see the reading specs on the W/B Rob! Have always admired this loco of yours. Hugh Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted March 26, 2012 Author Share Posted March 26, 2012 Glad to see the reading specs on the W/B Rob! Have always admired this loco of yours. Hugh Thanks Hugh, I am really quite proud of it even though it doesn't fit in with anything else that I model. Sadly the specs come to us all. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornamuse Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 nice work again! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted April 10, 2012 Author Share Posted April 10, 2012 More work done on the A3 last night, I assembled the other side valve gear and while the motion all worked it stopped in reverse after about 8 revolutions and the return crank on one side kept unscrewing itself so that it didn't rotate a full circle it went half way and then reversed itself. having tweaked and fiddled for quite sometime I asked for help on another forum and Richard Lambert came to the rescue with the suggestion that the crank pin bush may be too short and as such not allow any clearance for rotation. While reading his suggestion I had the chassis in my hands and sure enough the offending side did look to be tight up. So of I went to investigate and thanks once again go to Richard his diagnosis was right on the button. When I examined the offending crank bush it turned out that despite not having anything taken off it it was still too short to fit through all the rods with clearance. To remedy the situation I got another spare crank pin bush which was also tapped 10ba. I then filed this down to just above the thickness of the main connecting rods. I then screwed this onto the crank pin (I also filed square flats on to each bush to allow me to use pin vices as sockets to tighten them up). I then added the main connecting rods and a brass washer opened up to go over the bush. Then I added the connecting rod that is attached to the piston (apologies the correct names for these escapes me at the moment) and fitted the original bush back on collar outwards screwing this up to meet the first one and ensuring that the washer had passed over it. I then added the return crank and the return crank rod and applied some loctite to each nut/bush. Then a short interlude of lunch and fixing some fence rails that had come loose over the winter and I gave it a test. The result a complete success, here are a couple of videos showing forward and reverse. http://youtu.be/S6ITk53o1DY http://youtu.be/1ajuA-WHz-c Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 It is always nice to see the models working when you have watched them develope. It will be a lovely model when finished. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted April 10, 2012 Author Share Posted April 10, 2012 Thanks Peter it's coming along now. I intend giving it a good run in either direction no before doing anything else. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted July 2, 2012 Author Share Posted July 2, 2012 After the J63 I promised the wife that I would finish the A3. So I set to and cut out the the centre hornguides and soldered in some etched ones from the spares box. I sprung them with some nickel silver wire. Sadly as I was soldering parts on more parts were dropping off..... To make it easier to deal with the horn blocks I removed the centre springs, drilled them and the frames and tapped them 10ba so that the springs could be screwed on. While doing this I managed to snap of one of the hangers which I repaired with some 1mm rod. After my experiences with the plunger pick ups on the J63 I decided to short out the wheels on one side of the loco and one side of the tender to use the american method of pick up. To this end I had bought some small plugs from eBay and I made a set up, I made a representation of a hose by winding some soft brass wire around a piece of brass rod this rod was then removed and the wire from the plug passed through. Over the outer part I placed some heat shrink tube and shrunk it. This is for the tender pick up. I plan to solder a hook to the bottom of a paxolin drawbar to support it with the plug hidden under the tender chassis. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted July 9, 2012 Author Share Posted July 9, 2012 Well the american method works so far - here she is running under her own power at last. I still have no end of issues to sort but since I came close to packing it away in a box for a few years last night I view this as a major leap forward http://youtu.be/W8HbzOj9N8Q http://youtu.be/to_LLZRHBuM Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 I like the way it changes from forward to reverse...by flipping the motor up. Seriously, the valvegear looks good doesn't it? Is the try-square for added weight? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 Well the american method works so far - here she is running under her own power at last. I still have no end of issues to sort but since I came close to packing it away in a box for a few years last night I view this as a major leap forward http://youtu.be/W8HbzOj9N8Q http://youtu.be/to_LLZRHBuM Looking very good Rob, DCC next? Is that a Universal tractor sitting to the side of your test track? I have a few of them as potential loads. They are superb value. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted July 10, 2012 Author Share Posted July 10, 2012 I like the way it changes from forward to reverse...by flipping the motor up. Seriously, the valvegear looks good doesn't it? Is the try-square for added weight? Hi Jeff, thanks - you notice the square then? I plan tonight to put down a list of things that I still need to do and balancing the tender is one of them. For some strange reason it won't pick up current unless I have some weight at that side. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted July 10, 2012 Author Share Posted July 10, 2012 Looking very good Rob, DCC next? Is that a Universal tractor sitting to the side of your test track? I have a few of them as potential loads. They are superb value. Hi Hugh, I thought of DCC but the thought that to equip 1 loco with sound etc I could buy another kit has put me off a bit. Yes the tractor is a universal (I think) like you I have a couple as loads for a Lowmac and an implement wagon. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted July 11, 2012 Share Posted July 11, 2012 Hi Hugh, I thought of DCC but the thought that to equip 1 loco with sound etc I could buy another kit has put me off a bit. Yes the tractor is a universal (I think) like you I have a couple as loads for a Lowmac and an implement wagon. The Universal tractor must count as a "landscaping" first on your plank Rob! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted July 11, 2012 Author Share Posted July 11, 2012 Very true:0) As I mentioned above there a few issues to overcome. The two main ones are that my carefully constructed brake cylinders foul the front bogie and the observant amongst you will have noticed that there are two engineers squares on the tender top this is because it won't run without added weight at that side so I need to balance it up some how. Besides that, this is a list of what is left to do: Re fit the brakes Fit front bogie secure tender pickup wire - ditto loco pick up wire Fit Cylinder covers Fit Buffers Fit the valve rocker sub assembly - this might be a challenge to solder as it needs to be soldered between two narrow white metal flanges. Finish backhead and fit Glaze the cab Fit Seats Fit crew finish painting and add plates. Some of these require a clear head and concentration which is a bit lacking due to work pressures (long days and weekends) at the moment. So I think a distraction with a simple Jim McGeown kit is the order of the day until my current project finishes. Edited for typo Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted July 12, 2012 Share Posted July 12, 2012 Not much left to do then? LOL Ken would have that done and another kit started in an hour........... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted July 12, 2012 Share Posted July 12, 2012 It is coming on nicely. Sometimes these things just won't rush themselves. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted July 13, 2012 Share Posted July 13, 2012 Hello Rob, can you get the front valve gear to work? It's a long time since I built one of these. I know you can on the Finney one. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted July 13, 2012 Author Share Posted July 13, 2012 Hello Rob, can you get the front valve gear to work? It's a long time since I built one of these. I know you can on the Finney one. OzzyO. I think so Paul, I just need to work out how to solder between the two whitemetal fins without melting them - Or worst case I will have to dismantle the rod that goes through the upper cylinder, solder the other rod to it and put it back. Having got it all working nicely I am a bit loath to do that, but it might be the only way. I should have done it before I assembled it but the DJH instructions are a bit lacking and I didn't have prior experience of Walchearts valve gear to know what was needed.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted July 14, 2012 Share Posted July 14, 2012 Hello Rob, could you drill out the valve spindle holes to say 2mm for a length of tube (the size of the valve spindle would determine the size of the tube) that could be soldered to the front and rear valve spindles so the movement was transfered from one to the other. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted July 14, 2012 Share Posted July 14, 2012 Have you built it with 90 degree lead, or 120? I remember being told that axles are available from slaters to get the correct 120 degrees, but that it's hard to get the valvegear to work properly if you use them? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted July 14, 2012 Author Share Posted July 14, 2012 Have you built it with 90 degree lead, or 120? I remember being told that axles are available from slaters to get the correct 120 degrees, but that it's hard to get the valvegear to work properly if you use them? HI Jeff, it's built with 90 degree lead. I hadn't heard that Slaters did the 120 degree axles until I was well on with this but I have bought a set for my V2 so I will see how I get on with them. If they are successful I may get some for the W1 but to be honest at the moment I am not sure how many cylinders the W1 had. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted July 14, 2012 Share Posted July 14, 2012 The W1 in streamlined form, (like an A4), had three cylinders. Is yours the DJH version? Pretty rare, if so...... I'd be interested to see that build. I saw it in bits at Doncaster after withdrawal. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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