RMweb Gold colin penfold Posted February 25, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 25, 2018 Chris be careful you don't use anything for the stretcher that will electrically join the two blades together. If you believe eggs and sucking are contained within that sentence, I apologise. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mark Forrest Posted February 25, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 25, 2018 FWIW, I make the droppers longer than the tubes they fit in. Haven't tried bending them over as D suggests but might try that next time; either that or solder a short length of tube on to to protruding dropper to prevent it rising up 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted February 25, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 25, 2018 Chris be careful you don't use anything for the stretcher that will electrically join the two blades together. If you believe eggs and sucking are contained within that sentence, I apologise. Quite right! The copper clad if used would be gapped. Or I might just use plastic strip. Nearly fell for the unintentional short when building the whitemetal buffer stop, for a second I was going to replace the flimsy plastic rod between the two halves with a bit of brass. Then I twigged why it was plastic... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted February 25, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 25, 2018 FWIW, I make the droppers longer than the tubes they fit in. Haven't tried bending them over as D suggests but might try that next time; either that or solder a short length of tube on to to protruding dropper to prevent it rising up Your soldering a bit of tube on the end of the dropper would work well. You could finely adjust to to give the right level of pull and then dab the base with the iron to fix. Would be easy too remove to if needed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted February 25, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 25, 2018 Boom! Success at last! Just 6 more of these and a double slip to go... 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted February 25, 2018 Share Posted February 25, 2018 (edited) Boom! Success at last! Just 6 more if these and a double slip to go... Well, dunno what all the fuss wuz about ! Joking apart, well done for persevering Chris and thank you for posting a video, it all helps ( even if i haven't got to that stage yet ! ). Grahame Edited February 25, 2018 by bgman 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted February 25, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 25, 2018 Thanks Grahame, and a quick shot show a couple of lengths of plasticard shoved on between the stretcher bar mounts. Gives an idea of the effect I'll get... Definitely been a big learning experience, they should get easier after this. Just little things like sanding the underside of the board to give a smooth surface for the bar to slide on and making sure there's no lumps or bumps on the slide chairs. I also know now how much resistance a Tortoise point motor can work against - much less than my fingers. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted February 25, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 25, 2018 Obviously now I have to fully test this one before going to the next... Flick switch, flick switch, flick switch... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted February 25, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 25, 2018 Been looking at photos of stretcher bars (yes, sad, I know) the position seems to vary quite a bit. On this turnout I've placed them roughly centrally between the timbers. On balance though, on the next turnouts I think I will place the first stretch nearer the time an DCC the second further away so they are off center. Does anyone know any better? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted February 25, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 25, 2018 Given that real points are moved by a rod connected to the side of the blades, would it be an idea to replicate this and then connect the tortoise to this, rather than under the blades? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted February 25, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 25, 2018 Given that real points are moved by a rod connected to the side of the blades, would it be an idea to replicate this and then connect the tortoise to this, rather than under the blades? Working point rodding? I had enough trouble getting this working! And then what about the two hand-pulled turnouts? You'll note though I've got stretcher bars extending outside the stockrail - the intention is to knock up a fake connection to the point rodding. I'm definitely going for a compromise. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted February 25, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 25, 2018 The rodding only needs to be fake from the angle joint, the last in-line piece could be working. As for the hand-thrown; the lever might not move but the rod underneath could. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted February 25, 2018 Share Posted February 25, 2018 Boom! Success at last! Just 6 more if these and a double slip to go... Looks good Chris. I will be using something simpler, but may steel an idea or two. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted February 25, 2018 Share Posted February 25, 2018 The rodding only needs to be fake from the angle joint, the last in-line piece could be working. As for the hand-thrown; the lever might not move but the rod underneath could. Is this something you’ve been able to make work? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted February 25, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 25, 2018 Is this something you’ve been able to make work? Not yet; but I'm nowhere near as skilled as Chris. It was offered as an idea, rather than a proven solution. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted February 25, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 25, 2018 Not yet; but I'm nowhere near as skilled as Chris. It was offered as an idea, rather than a proven solution. Skilled? Not sure about that. Persistent may be. You've not seen the pile of scrap bits on the workbench from this last escapade. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mark Forrest Posted February 25, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 25, 2018 It's been done in 4mm, so why not? For me there's no real advantage just having the short section of rodding adjacent to the turnout moving; really need to see all the rodding cranks all the way back to the frame moving... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted February 25, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 25, 2018 It's been done in 4mm, so why not? For me there's no real advantage just having the short section of rodding adjacent to the turnout moving; really need to see all the rodding cranks all the way back to the frame moving... https://youtu.be/T8K1bgantIs 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted February 25, 2018 Share Posted February 25, 2018 It's been done in 4mm, so why not? For me there's no real advantage just having the short section of rodding adjacent to the turnout moving; really need to see all the rodding cranks all the way back to the frame moving... In which case, you could mount all the Tortoises in the locking room of the box! Err hang on, wait a mo... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted February 25, 2018 Share Posted February 25, 2018 https://youtu.be/T8K1bgantIs I’m guessing his “self healing cutting mat” is going to struggle with those screw holes... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted February 25, 2018 Share Posted February 25, 2018 https://youtu.be/T8K1bgantIs I've seen a few of that chaps videos and although most may not be for me there's some food for though in some of his methods. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted February 25, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 25, 2018 I’m guessing his “self healing cutting mat” is going to struggle with those screw holes... I can think of some more suitable (and cheaper) things he could have attached it too. Scrap of timber perhaps? Yes, those holes are now going to be somewhat permanent. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium wagonbasher Posted February 26, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 26, 2018 Working point rodding? I had enough trouble getting this working! And then what about the two hand-pulled turnouts? With scale levers ? Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted February 26, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 26, 2018 With scale levers ? Andy That's the second time you've volunteered to make something for me. Cheers. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted February 26, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 26, 2018 Fixing something at the blade to stop it rising is the right place. Move it to the end of a tube and it could have more slop and allow the blade tip to rise just a fraction and possibly cause problems. I have never seen scale size working rodding I suspect you might have problems with rigidity which is a factor of cross sectional area over the length which is therefore affected by the scale factor. Perhaps the answer might be to have a point motor close to the turnout operating the blades and the rodding which could have a free end in the box. With no load on the end of the rodding it might be rigid enough to operate. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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