ozzyo Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 This could be fun. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 Hi Stevefay--Go to page 11, and scroll down you'll see what I have done Looked at both that and close-ups I took at York, it looks fine to me. That's how I'll be doing mine. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Out of interest, has anybody actually soldered the castings yet, the streamlined casing and valances? If so, what solder and flux, please? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 30801 Posted January 19, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 19, 2015 If so, what solder and flux, please? Araldite Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Seriously laughed out loud at that. OK point taken. I still wonder if it WOULD solder? Does anyone know if Mazak can be soldered? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 30801 Posted January 19, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 19, 2015 There's an interesting post here: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/8356-soldering-die-cast-metal/&do=findComment&comment=72554 Hopefully you have a couple of spare bodies to practice on? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ROSSPOP Posted January 20, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 20, 2015 I,m going to use Adlock 3295 available from Www.Glueonline. Industrial strength type of 'Araldyte' Expensive due to postage but 'needs must' John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted January 20, 2015 Share Posted January 20, 2015 I've got Devcon "Two Ton" stuff, might try that. I've ordered a fine permanent marker, (overhead projector pen) and when it comes tomorrow, will be marking the valances for cutting. THEN I need to have a go at cutting. Piercing saw? Check. Decent supply of decent blades? Check. Courage? ...Hmmmm..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Peter Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 JeffP--Make sure you get fine tooth (Can't remember what TPI) mine was course but I managed.___Rob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 I assume I cut BEFORE fixing to the body? And how on earth do you hold them to cut? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 JeffP, you could attach one to the body using the screws then cut that out, then attach the second one and cut that out. That would give you a bit more to hold onto. Then it would be cleaning up the cut edges. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenglade Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 This may be a silly question but why do you feel you need to glue the valances on? they are a good fit and the screws hold them perfectly, any gaps can be filled although the only gaps I had were at the front and back joints. \regarding cutting the valances I'd do that after they have been fixed in place. I've been progressing with my own build...did the cab roof over the last couple of days...lovely casting and etches, she's going to be a nice model. I have ordered a set of backhead fittings from Laurie Griffin to compliment the kit as i intend to put a lot of extra detail into this area. here's a picture of the cab roof, still needs cleaning/tidying up but it's getting there, I have built it so that the vents work, kit suggests gluing then open or closed but the kit parts can easily be used for working vents. regards Pete 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 Hello Pete, I did mention to JeffP to only screw the valances in place to cut the shapes out, for two reasons you only have to think about the valance at the top not the bottom one as well. If you make a right Horrics of any of them you just screw another one in place and start again (that's if you have a spare one or two!). You can then do all of the nice work to them on the body work. Looks like it could be a good kit. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 (edited) I don't have spares, (but see below), so need to get it right. Hence many questions before actually cutting. In my case it's going to be ask a thousand times, cut once...I hope. Greenglade: are you buying a complete set off Laurie? The reason I ask is that the backhead casting itself is reckoned to be rather nice anyway. I wondered if Laurie might do folk a "kit of parts" using his castings, our (supplied) backheads? I need to ask him really. On a similar note, Hobbyhorse Developments do the Reynalds range of LNER parts, some of which are cab-related. They include a very nice looking lost wax brass steam fountain. AFAIK, Tony Reynalds did the masters for the DJH/Piercy A4, which is lovely. Reynalds Range: http://www.hobbyhorse.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=60 In the LMS section are cab cinder guards, (working) also suitable for the A4. Pics of the Piercy model: (Might also be useful for our builds: http://www.djhmodelloco.co.uk/prodpage.asp?productid=3428scroll down for detail pics. OK: this is what I have just bought off a well known auction site: The superglue excesses and runs will be removed once the paintwork is..it's in a plastic box smeared with Wilco Paintstripper as I type. The cab is being stripped too. I'll have to see if it comes into it's constituent parts...... The paintstripper does the bodywork paint in about thirty minutes, but the cab lacquer takes about two hours. Good stuff though. NOT shown is the right hand cab washout plug, which has been fitted with the bolts wrongly aligned...Reynalds (above) do them in case I need another. Edited to say: just noticed the washout plugs are both fitted wrongly, from the OUTSIDE. And the final pic shows the cab rear/upper extensions bent...shouldn't be a problem, the fall-plate doesn't work properly, wanting to stick up at an angle of 45 degreees, plus it's been bent to shape and the upper vertical handrail hole isn't drilled. No big deal to put right. It will be used to build 60029 as running in 1961, using the body to do the difficult parts from an Acorn/Big 4 kit..that kit includes the correct tender for "Woodcock". So...........I'm actually doing stuff...albeit taking stuff to bits, not actual building, and paint-stripping doesn't really count, does it? Anyway, I'm happy, which is what DOES count. Edited January 21, 2015 by JeffP Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenglade Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 Hi Jeff You can buy the backhead fittings from laurie without the backhead, as you say the kit backhead is very good...price for A3/A4 fittings set minus backhead is £27 + £3 p+p Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 Hello JeffP, looking at the body build so far, it looks like the fellow has got a decent join at the body smokebox end, but then lost it at the cab end. Getting it out of the stripper should help seeing what's going on. Didn't you get a couple of cabs? I'd say try and get a number of the mag. with the valances in it just in case. Before you start spending money on castings see what the ones are like in the part work. ATB OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 So far I have one cab, for my partwork modeland have ordered a spare...they were rare here anyway, so ebay it was. The one still in the flat has been de-lacquered. The one on the model above, it's difficult to tell. I may fit a new one as he's bent the spectacle plates too. It's out of the stripper and yes, the cab-casing joint is poor, filled with superglue and the paint doesn't come off under that. Bah! NOW I need something to release the superglue. Acetone? Do nail varnish removers still contain acetone? I can buy a litre for about €4 in France, pure acetone. (Propanone). And yes, he's made a very good job of the casing-casing joint behind the nose. Hi Jeff You can buy the backhead fittings from laurie without the backhead, as you say the kit backhead is very good...price for A3/A4 fittings set minus backhead is £27 + £3 p+p Pete Thanks, I emailed Laurie today to ask. I thought he might do that...worth his while too, I'd think. £15 saving over the cost of a complete backhead + fittings too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenglade Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 Jeff for removing superglue you are best to use a proper debonder made for the job.... you'll find it's available from most superglue suppliers Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted January 22, 2015 Share Posted January 22, 2015 (edited) Didn't know that.....what is it listed as? Is it available from DIY sheds, or just online? Ordered some, thanks, none of the local outlets even knew what I was talking about. Edited January 22, 2015 by JeffP 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Peter Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 JeffP I held the valances in soft jaw vice and cut away carefully---Rob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold traction Posted January 23, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 23, 2015 Part 12--The water gauges in white metal that I got were totally crap,Having to reconstruct them--(photo will follow)--Rob So I'm not the only one then!! I've not started building mine as yet, waiting to get enough parts. Just been going through all of the parts and virtually all of the white metal parts that have been supplied are as you say crap! I've sent an email tonight to ask for replacements to be sent as there is nothing you can do with these. The water gauges haven't even been formed correctly so the bottom and top half are two individual bits. Quite shocking really. By the time I've tried to clean these parts up there will be nothing left of them! Is there anywhere that you can buy these boiler back-head detail parts where they will actually be fit for purpose? Cheers Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenglade Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 Hi Ian yes...you can get an A3/4 boiler set from Laurie Griffin...the backhead in the kit is very good so no need to replace this, just ask laurie to supply the fittings alone....they are £27 + £3 p+p.. http://www.lgminiatures.co.uk/ regards Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 (edited) As above. Other small (including cab) part suppliers are Hobbyhorse Developments (The Reynalds Range) http://www.hobbyhorse.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=60_81&page=2 Tony Reynalds mastered the DJH/Piercy A4, which is lovely, pics here (scroll down for detail pics): http://www.djhmodelloco.co.uk/prodpage.asp?productid=3428 and Ragstone...an email to him and he will send you a downloadable pdf of his range, which iirc was mastered by David Parkins and is exquisite. Or PM me an email address on here and I'll try to forward you the one I have. Edited January 24, 2015 by JeffP Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold traction Posted January 24, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 24, 2015 Thanks guys! I've now started! Already broke a drill bit off in the nose for one of the front lamp irons That boiler takes some drilling, it also took ages and wire wool to get that primer off, even using Nitromors. Still taking shape, and as it's the first loco I've ever built should be fun. I'm just building it as per the instructions with super glue, can't be bother to take the varnish off and in theory it's only going to be running backwards and forwards along a length or two of track. I'm also not going to paint it. When I did my apprenticeship one of the fitters was in a previous role a tin smith and he made the bed warming pan and copper/brass kettle that looked stunning so thats how I want this. When you see the pics of these unpainted they do look stunning......to me anyway! Doesn't look too bad to my eyes, just enjoying the build..............................so far! Cheers Ian 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenglade Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 very nice Ian...she's a beautiful locomotive and putting aside a few small parts that aren't the best I'm generally very impressed with the quality of this kit, she'll build up into a first class model.. regards Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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