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Mallard Partwork


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Blue Peter: do you mind if I take you back to cutting the valances?

 

Did you have a suitable drawing to mark them? If so, what?

What did you use to mark them?

Did you then cut to the mark, or close by and file?

How easily did the metal cut?

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Hi jeffp----I drew the out line, free-hand with a felt-tip marker pen(fine nib) till it looked right, then proceeded to cut with a coping saw then filed to the line.

           It is quite tough, so just take your time. Hope this helps---Rob

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Jeff P- I did it freehand,just as a joiner would scribe a line down a sheet of board,and then rounded off the corners to meet up with the straight lines-Keep looking at a photo till you get it right.

Edited by Blue Peter
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that's looking very nice...funny as I spent a little time myself this evening doing some scaled down test prints of Mallards various gauge faces on photo card just to see if the detail still shows through...looking good so far...yours look great...have you turned up new dials and what about the water gauges etc...are they cast brass or painted? I also ordered a number of reels of copper wire for doing the pipework.... I suspect enough to do hundreds of mallards....... I like the opened firehole door detail too...:)

 

Pete

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Hi greenglade, the water gauges that I got were total crap! had to salvage what I could and rebuild them,ther'e whitemetal and painted,The brass gauges I turned out of brass(assorted sizes) Tip:-don't go buying wire, have a look in skips for old wire ,house renovations etc you'll find loads of sizes-and the firehole door was painstaking-a thought after painting----ROB.

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Hi Rob

 

I agree about the wire... but i wanted to find a supplier who wasn't too expensive so I can have  a stock of different sizes.... i found such on ebay and iirc bought 0.4, 0.5, 0.7, 1.0, 1.2 and 1.5....I already have a variety of other sizes in single core wire that can be stripped...BTW what did you use for the dial faces??

 

Pete

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  • 4 weeks later...

Good day all.  Hope everybody had a good and relaxing Xmas.  I've been doing some work on my Mongrel Mallard and thought I might share it with the Group.  I Chose to use a cast backhead with all the pipework in the casting.  Reason for this is that this will be a model which its owner can play with and not have to worry about fiddly bits keep falling off when the superglue becomes brittle. I found a nice pic of the Flaman Speed Recorder on Google, so I copied and reduced it with photoshop and then printed it out to make the face under the seat.

post-24181-0-65239600-1419690899_thumb.jpg

post-24181-0-19424300-1419690930_thumb.jpg

Edited by Old Man Phil
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Thanks. I'll nip in on Monday.

 

That speed recorder looks good..........but I sincerely hope the needle moves...it will look odd when the loco is on shed if it's reading 40mph........

 

Only joking....... :no:

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So.......did we ever reach a concensus on how best to remove lacquer from the brass etchings?

post-1036-0-66499300-1420047982.jpg

 

I got some of this stuff from B&Q the other day for a couple of quid. It doesn't smell and washes off with water so I can use it in the house :)

 

After a couple of hours soak a bit of not too vigorous rubbing with wire wool seems to take the lacquer off.

 

I haven't actually tried soldering it yet (some issue with a brand new dining table) but I'll report back once I've figured that one out.

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that's the same as I use....no issues with soldering after a good wash, I also give it a good polish with just steel wool when dried, that's  after the initial scrub with steel wool and paint stripper together. comes up a treat...

 

Pete

 

Pete

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I now have my cab, and some paint stripper, which has removed the lacquer. It left the brass stained, but a good scrub with Jif cream seems to have brought it up nicely.

 

Do I drill the upper vertical handrail knob position before bending? And what diameter?

I already know that my chosen loco* had 4'3" handrails, so 3" shorter than normal, on that handrail.

 

Since I joined on 28/11, should I now have more than the one issue I have?

 

* 60014 "Silver Link" as at 1961.

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Now is the best time to drill the handrail holes. IIRC they're 1.3mm but check that against the existing hole at the bottom.

Then I suggest you do nothing until you have the main boiler section. That way you can offer up the cab and make sure everything fits nicely before you solder it up.

 

Deliveries, I think they just send out issue one straight away, then maybe a couple of issues four weeks after that. Eventually it settles down to four issues every four weeks.

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Hi jeffp----I drew the out line, free-hand with a felt-tip marker pen(fine nib) till it looked right, then proceeded to cut with a coping saw then filed to the line.

           It is quite tough, so just take your time. Hope this helps---Rob

Amy chance of a few pictures, I would be looking into having the same done
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