mike47j Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 I'm slightly worried, as I'm following the instructions. The roof and doors are all fixed on but the backhead is a long way from complete. It's already very difficult to get the backhead in past the door hinges and windows, without all the handwheels and pipes. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenglade Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 Is this the tender supplied with the kit? No Steve.....the kit tender isn't available yet Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenglade Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 You should be ok Mike...I can't get mine in from the top either, I found the easiest way was to sit the backhead upright on the footplate, twist it at an angle allowing it to push past the windows and then straighten it up. I have a lot more detail to add yet and I need to paint the inside of the cab which is why the roof isn't fixed. What I'm trying to say is yes it's best to leave the roof till later but it's not a total disaster if you have followed the kit instructions. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordonotron Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 Still need to start mine. Just to check as I'm new to the whole kit world for those that are using solder are all the brass parts treated? also any tips on grade of solder/flux for this kind of work? Gordon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 30801 Posted March 18, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 18, 2015 Just to check as I'm new to the whole kit world for those that are using solder are all the brass parts treated? Yep. All of 'em. This is the stuff I've been using. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/81382-mallard-partwork/page-14&do=findComment&comment=1723367 Couple of hours soak and a rub with wire wool does the trick. Doesn't smell either. For solder & flux this stuff is worth a look. http://www.7mmlocomotives.co.uk//index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=26&category_id=1&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=52 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 Another vote for the solder/flux pack above. I use both. I got the lacquer off mine with Wilco paint stripper, painted on and left to soak in a a sandwich box. Takes two hours or so. Then it came off using an old toothbrush, final scrub with cif cream. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Man Phil Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 No Steve. I scratch built this one myself. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carl Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 For solder & flux this stuff is worth a look. http://www.7mmlocomotives.co.uk//index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=26&category_id=1&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=52 Do you know if the shop still open for business? I have used this stuff before and would like to order more, but I noted the site itself hasn't been updated for some time, it says 2006 in the footer. I sent Simon an email a few weeks back, but didn't get a reply, so ended up buying some stuff from Carrs instead. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 30801 Posted March 19, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 19, 2015 Hmm. I bought mine in 2011 so it's been a while... TBH I wouldn't have a problem just ordering some and seeing what happens. Pay using PayPal and if nothing turns up you can easily get a refund. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 I hope it is available, best flux I've ever used. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushrat Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 Greetings all, been away for a while. This has just been released in Australia, got 4 cabs today, and have been reading the thread so far with interest. Having looked at part #1, it seems to me the cab is a double sided etch, totally different from Flying Scotsman, and the "lacquer" may well have been applied by heat transfer or screen printing with the relevant cut-outs for etching. (??) What I am going to do is to soak one of the cab etches in automotive thinners - that should remove anything known to man, be it lacquer or whatever, without damaging the brass. I will post some photos of the result. Part 2 is due later this week, and assuming that we get metal ones here, I will treat it the same way and see what happens. I still haven't finished Scotsman, - had a year off moving house and having a cancer op - but hopefully soon will have a decent work area set up in the new place, until then it's going to be the odd experiment in technique - something that I learned the hard way with Scotsman..... I am going to do what a few others here are attempting - use the body kit as a base for scratch building a near enough Mallard, as I already have an almost complete chassis that I scratched for the Scotsman, and from what I see, the addition of a few mounting points should work well, after all, the side skirts will cover most differences..... Has anyone got a list of issues and what parts they contain as yet? Would be really helpful if somebody could post one. Cheers, Bushrat. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushrat Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 Strange stuff indeed, is this lacquer or whatever is on the cab, here is what I have done so far; 1: Soaked in automotive acrylic thinners for 2 hours and brushed - effect was a slight milky "discharge" from the brass surface, and a slight lumpy effect, similar to what you would get dissolving a silicone based product. 2: Light polished in a couple of test areas with 1200 grit wet and dry paper - removed the coating ok, but will be a bit of a problem on the small detail parts, due to probable damage that would occur. 3: test applied solder to a couple of places and no, solder will NOT take where this coating is, but the surface polished with the wet and dry is fine. Conclusion: Really cant work out what this stuff is, it almost behaves like a plastic film rather than a painted finish, and it is extremely tough to remove, although an overnight soak in the thinners MAY help, I just didn't have time to watch it. My concern with this is simply that once assembled, if this coating is not completely removed, while it may be great for improving the adhesion of super glue, I have reservations about applying a paint finish to it, as paint may not bond properly to the surface. Next step is to muck about with other non-caustic stuff that wont attack the brass, so off to the hardware tomorrow to see what I can find, and will advise. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenglade Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 The coating comes off easy enough with paint stripper which has no effect on the brass etch beneath, an hour soaking with a brush over with some steel wool will do the job.. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 (edited) Aye, use the Australian version of Wilco paint stripper. Nitromors? Edited March 26, 2015 by JeffP Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ROSSPOP Posted March 26, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 26, 2015 Hi As said before, Nitromors nowadays is made much less potent. Wilko paint stripper is better and only for an hour or so, then use medium/fine wire wool as it will not wear down the nice rivet detailing on the etches. DO NOT remove items from the etches first. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenglade Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 DO NOT remove items from the etches first. John good point john something I have to date forgotten to say... once I get my parts each month the first thing I do is take all the brass etch parts down the workshop and start the paint stripping process without removing them from their etched sheets, only when the varnish has been removed and the parts polished using steel wool do i then remove the parts from their sheets. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 Has anyone tried caustic soda to do this? OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Peter Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 Aye I did,but was taking too long,(and it's dangerous,childrenand pets) so I went back to Nitromors;-nae bother! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelpara Posted March 28, 2015 Share Posted March 28, 2015 Absolutely fuming, soldered same parts on 4 times (E79) yet every time I add on part E80 it pulls apart the frames and breaks the solder no matter how many times I file it down! Why couldn't they have just stuck with the same dimensions etc as given by DJH instead of breaking things by their own modifications! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenglade Posted March 28, 2015 Share Posted March 28, 2015 Absolutely fuming, soldered same parts on 4 times (E79) yet every time I add on part E80 it pulls apart the frames and breaks the solder no matter how many times I file it down! Why couldn't they have just stuck with the same dimensions etc as given by DJH instead of breaking things by their own modifications! Hi....I just checked to see which parts these are....try using a small engineers clamp to hold the frames closed, this will do two things, one it will hold the frames together and two it will act as a heat sink over the previous soldered parts of 79. Use bakers fluid to help the solder flow and a hot iron, solder the front of part 80 to part 79 first. Now looking at the narrow return tabs on part 80 that need to be fixed to the inside of the frames, adjust the engineers clamp so that it sits below the tabs that you wish to solder first, ie let it drop so that it's over where part 79 joins the frames but not touching the frames where you wish to solder the narrow tabs of part 80 to the frames. This reduces the effect of the heat sink in that area, brush on bakers fluid and solder , do both tabs. Turn the chassis over, re-position the clamp so it now sits over the newly solder parts and the 79 tabs and do the last two narrow tabs. Hope this makes sense and hope I'm not teaching you how to suck eggs, that was certainly not my intention, just trying to explain how I tackle these things, regards Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelpara Posted March 28, 2015 Share Posted March 28, 2015 Hi....I just checked to see which parts these are....try using a small engineers clamp to hold the frames closed, this will do two things, one it will hold the frames together and two it will act as a heat sink over the previous soldered parts of 79. Use bakers fluid to help the solder flow and a hot iron, solder the front of part 80 to part 79 first. Now looking at the narrow return tabs on part 80 that need to be fixed to the inside of the frames, adjust the engineers clamp so that it sits below the tabs that you wish to solder first, ie let it drop so that it's over where part 79 joins the frames but not touching the frames where you wish to solder the narrow tabs of part 80 to the frames. This reduces the effect of the heat sink in that area, brush on bakers fluid and solder , do both tabs. Turn the chassis over, re-position the clamp so it now sits over the newly solder parts and the 79 tabs and do the last two narrow tabs. Hope this makes sense and hope I'm not teaching you how to suck eggs, that was certainly not my intention, just trying to explain how I tackle these things, regards Pete I fear it's beyond salvaging now, far too much solder now glued to the frame to be able to fit the components Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenglade Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 never say die as they say.......the good thing about solder is it's easily removed when heated, you can buy cheap solder removing tools which basically suck the solder up when flowing... just be careful not to distort the chassis with too much heat. Another thing to point out... this part will never be seen when built so unless you've a purist ( admittedly I am)... then it doesn't really matter what you put there. good luck Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelpara Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 That's why I was resorting to snipping off the ends to try to make it fit Someone at the club will look for me on tuesday Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 Buy some desoldering wick too. It's like copper braid with flux in. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 What do we all think to the special offer of a motor/gearbox for £90? Persdonally, I'd rather pay a bit more and have an ABC. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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