SOS Junction. If anything happens would someone wake me up please..

[Captain Kernow]

Ben Dover, the Scottish fella - didn't he "work" with Phil McCavity?

His sister, Anne Dover is a lot closer to Seaton Jct.

[Mallard60022]

Right chaps. We need to get on with serious discussions now. 

I'm in the fortunate position (no sniggering please........) of having a generous RM Webber coming over/up/down on Friday to give me a little advice on creating the sweeping curves that are a feature of the track through Seaton Junction. Now that is going to be very helpful indeed, however I will be needing to have droppers on each track section and was wondering if I could seek some advice re this. Any thoughts on the following:

solder the droppers in advance and drill holes through the baseboards once the track is fixed in place but before final ballasting then thread the droppers down the holes;

 

solder the droppers in advance but drill the holes and thread the wires with the track in approximate placing then adjust the track to final position;

 

create a surface BUS and lay the 'droppers' on the board surface (in shallow slots) to then be covered over?

 

Do something else?

 

I could solder droppers once the track is fixed in place (pre ballast) but that would be tricky and cleaning the solder joint wouldn't be easy either.

 

I have also decided that most of my points on the scenic sections can be hand operated except for a few where access is restricted. I will probably use frog juicers as well as I have used those before and they are such a simple (if a bit expensive) way of dealing with polarity. However there are some new products on the market now that are similar and suitable for DC or DCC (DCC Concepts products for example). This means just some adaptations of the points but only the frog wire required (other than droppers) through or on the boards (to the juicer/other thingy). Any thoughts/experience on this?

I'm not into flashy control panels and quite fancy doing the 'route' setting to keep myself interested and mobile. After all, I have all the time I need when operating.

Thanks,

Phil

Edited January 6, 2016 by Mallard60022

[NHY 581]

How about soldering the droppers to the fishplates rather than the rail itself?

 

Rob.

[Stubby47]

Mark where the track will go

Work out the lengths of each section of track ( yard / part yard)

Mark where you need to add dropper

Solder droppers to each piece of rail

Put track back in position and mark dropper holes

Move track

Drill holes

Put track back, pushing dropper wires through holes

 

Oh, move caterpillar and shed to place of safety first

[Tim Dubya]

I would have thought that 2 droppers per rail per length (assuming 1m flexi) soldered before and planted into pre-drlled holes (or burried on top of the boards) would be a safe bet. That would also give you the option to use etched or Exactoscale locking fishplates between the lengths. As regards the Buss wires- can you get underneath the boards easily for installation / maintenance? If not, on the top or front of the boards?

Don't know nuffin about none of them gubbins, DCC or DC...

Good luck!

Edited January 6, 2016 by Tim Dubya

[Clive Mortimore]

Not too sure where this need for dropper wires every 3 ft came from? I have never had problems with using good old fashioned fishplates/railjoiners to conduct from one bit of track to its neighbour.

 

I always lay the track, once nailed down drill the holes for the section wires and solder them on. I do use a control panel, it has section switches on and the studs for the point motors, nought complicated.

 

 

 

Edit, stick to DC, unless you have a desire for noisy diesels with all their lights brightly shining. DCC with steam only works if want to have all your locos sound fitted............money that could be spent on more stock, booze , pasties, sausages, DVDs with Jenny in them etc . etc.  Just Clive's humble opinion.

Edited January 6, 2016 by Clive Mortimore

[Mallard60022]

How about soldering the droppers to the fishplates rather than the rail itself?

 

Rob.

Could do but that still relies on the plates having good contact over time with each rail I've been told.

Thanks

Phil

[Mallard60022]

Mark where the track will go

Work out the lengths of each section of track ( yard / part yard)

Mark where you need to add dropper

Solder droppers to each piece of rail

Put track back in position and mark dropper holes

Move track

Drill holes

Put track back, pushing dropper wires through holes

 

Oh, move caterpillar and shed to place of safety first

That sounds sensible but will depend how the track is to be laid and I don't know that until Friday lunchtime!

Thanks

Phil

[brianusa]

Hey Phil, think of how much fun you're having!

 

Brian.

[Captain Kernow]

My view is that the droppers can and should be soldered to the rails once you've got those sweeping curves exactly where you want them. I think that soldering the droppers to the rail first, then working out exactly where each section of curved track is to go and trying to mark out where to drill the small hole for the dropper, drilling it, and then expecting it all to match up and still look like prototypical, sweeping curves is a bit of a big ask. Far better in my view, to go to Haverfordwest, dress up as a moleskin trouser salesman get the curves right, get the tracked glued down in it's correct and permanent geometry/configuration and then drill the holes for the droppers and solder same to the rail. Good, strong but discreet joints are perfectly possible. Two droppers per rail section would ensure redundancy.

[Mallard60022]

Thanks Clive, I need to remember the sections. I shall run as DC at first but everything in the main scenic areas will be DCC ready (for loco control). There are a number of complex movements which can involve three or four loco's in a section and DCC would make that very easy. Don't want steam sound as I think it's not good enough yet (and it's damn expensive). DC sections would/could be 'switched out' if I go DCC even part of the time with just a few loco's.

I shall see how my operations go just with DC and isolating sections at first as that is inexpensive compared to chipping all my loco's. It would mean stopping loco's in the same designated places to carry out certain shunts but that shouldn't be too restrictive as the prototype shunts were mainly the same as regards loco positions around the 'real' Station/Yards.

Regarding the droppers, I really only want to ensure power continuity in the critical scenic sections and that is two runs of around 18' along double track (with two 8'ish loops on one run) and in the yards. However, if I want to go DCC these will be DCC ready continuity wise and the rest of the layout, that is the non scenic sections, can be adapted if I don't do total coverage droppers initially as it will only be tacked down.

 

Tim, I can access the undersides if required but would still probably do an edge of boards BUS....thanks.
P

[2ManySpams]

Blimey there are some weird postings on this thread! Anyhow, I am reminding myself of how lovely SJ and Honiton Incline were back in those summer days of 1960ish. This is by watching DVDs. One in particular, 'The Southern Way West' a TVP DVD with Mike Arlett has some great shots of details up the Incline. 

can anyone tell me if I can do a screen capture of a paused section of DVD on a PC?

I am also pursuing my Adams with the 'difficulties' that was being 'examined' before Christmas. I do hope we can resolve the issues otherwise a Red Box version will be required.

For purists I have also realised that I can include an ER A2 (Blue Peter), a tatty looking Warship (Green livery), a Heymuck (green livery), a Class 22 (green livery) and a nasty bog cart in a short early 1966 sequence. Such fun.

Duck. 

 

Dear Duck,

 

Screen capture software... I've used versions of this for years: http://www.wisdom-soft.com/products/screenhunter_free.htm

 

You start it up and it runs in the background waiting for you to press the nominated F key (F6 on my version) and a set of cross hairs appears. Draw the box over the section of the screen you want and the image is saved as a jpg (or BMP, PDF, PNG, TIF or GIF if required) in your nominated directory.

 

Dead easy, even for those with webbed feet. 

[Mallard60022]

My view is that the droppers can and should be soldered to the rails once you've got those sweeping curves exactly where you want them. I think that soldering the droppers to the rail first, then working out exactly where each section of curved track is to go and trying to mark out where to drill the small hole for the dropper, drilling it, and then expecting it all to match up and still look like prototypical, sweeping curves is a bit of a big ask. Far better in my view, to go to Haverfordwest, dress up as a moleskin trouser salesman get the curves right, get the tracked glued down in it's correct and permanent geometry/configuration and then drill the holes for the droppers and solder same to the rail. Good, strong but discreet joints are perfectly possible. Two droppers per rail section would ensure redundancy.

Thanks CK. That's what I have done before on a much smaller scale, but not in Haverfordwest. I've yet to find out how my visitor has done his track on Grantham; he may well have the ideal solution (hopefully Brandy or Vodka). I need to find a clean flux that doesn't cause corrosion on such joints; I like a good clean flux without causing my joints to corrode.

Jenny likes moleskin pants by the way.

P

[Mallard60022]

Dear Duck,

 

Screen capture software... I've used versions of this for years: http://www.wisdom-soft.com/products/screenhunter_free.htm

 

You start it up and it runs in the background waiting for you to press the nominated F key (F6 on my version) and a set of cross hairs appears. Draw the box over the section of the screen you want and the image is saved as a jpg in your nominated directory.

 

Dead easy, even for those with webbed feet. 

Ta Spamaroona. I shall try that if it will be compatible on my aged Windows 7/8. Now I need you to promise that you won't keep spotting my Spam inaccuracies when they finally appear.....pretty please.

Duckbot

[St Enodoc]

Mark where the track will go

Work out the lengths of each section of track ( yard / part yard)

Mark where you need to add dropper

Solder droppers to each piece of rail

Put track back in position and mark dropper holes

Move track

Drill holes

Put track back, pushing dropper wires through holes

 

Oh, move caterpillar and shed to place of safety first

I like Stu's suggestion. I would add that a friend of mine makes a short groove in the baseboard top perpendicular to the rail to allow for some lateral adjustment of the track.

[2ManySpams]

Ta Spamaroona. I shall try that if it will be compatible on my aged Windows 7/8. Now I need you to promise that you won't keep spotting my Spam inaccuracies when they finally appear.....pretty please.

Duckbot

 

Dear Duckbot, It claims to be able to run on Windows 8. I will turn a blind eye to any Spamage I promise, honest guv.

[Alister_G]

Dear Duck,

 

Screen capture software... I've used versions of this for years: http://www.wisdom-soft.com/products/screenhunter_free.htm

 

You start it up and it runs in the background waiting for you to press the nominated F key (F6 on my version) and a set of cross hairs appears. Draw the box over the section of the screen you want and the image is saved as a jpg (or BMP, PDF, PNG, TIF or GIF if required) in your nominated directory.

 

Dead easy, even for those with webbed feet. 

 

Dear Duck, if you're running a proper Windows PC with a full keyboard, you don't even need to look at separate software, screen capture is built in.

 

Just pause the DVD where you want it, and then press the left hand "ALT" key and the "PRTSCRN" key which is usually the leftmost of the top row of three keys between the main keyboard and the numeric keypad.

 

Then open Windows Paint, and either press the "Control" key ("CTRL") and "V" or click on the big "Paste" button in Paint.

 

This should give you an image which you can then save as a Jpeg to where you want it.

 

Sorry Chris, don't mean to gazzump you.

 

Al.

[2ManySpams]

Dear Duck, if you're running a proper Windows PC with a full keyboard, you don't even need to look at separate software, screen capture is built in.

 

Just pause the DVD where you want it, and then press the left hand "ALT" key and the "PRTSCRN" key which is usually the leftmost of the top row of three keys between the main keyboard and the numeric keypad.

 

Then open Windows Paint, and either press the "Control" key ("CTRL") and "V" or click on the big "Paste" button in Paint.

 

This should give you an image which you can then save as a Jpeg to where you want it.

 

Sorry Chris, don't mean to gazzump you.

 

Al.

 

That's the slow way! Can't be arsed with all the separate saving, trimming etc. Try the Screenhunter route and you won't look back.

[LNER4479]

Thanks CK. That's what I have done before on a much smaller scale, but not in Haverfordwest. I've yet to find out how my visitor has done his track on Grantham; he may well have the ideal solution (hopefully Brandy or Vodka). I need to find a clean flux that doesn't cause corrosion on such joints; I like a good clean flux without causing my joints to corrode.

Jenny likes moleskin pants by the way.

P

Hi Ducky,

 

To give you an idea, and for info for others, this is how I do my track laying

 

It's all based around knocking in track alignment pins into the centre of the formation, based on the rough alignment of where you want the track to be.

 

There's then some maths involved (you can deal with the Brandy whilst I'm doing this). At the risk of getting too techie, the offset of one pin from the two either side is measured - a really civil engineer refers to this as a versine (inversely proportional to radius)

 

The position of each pin relative to the others is then adjusted (using some simple maths on my 'pooter - you can deal with the Vodka whilst I'm doing this) until a smooth flow is arrived at. Thereafter, tracklaying is easy-peasy, you just lay it up against the pins as shown - so hopefully I can leave you to do that. Once ballasted, the pins can be hidden (although they can be useful if ever you have to relay).

 

In terms of droppers therefore, it should be possible to pre-solder them to the underside of the rails and drill holes accordingly, safe in the knowledge that the position of the track will be pretty accurate.

 

Do feel free to invite Jenny round to see us doing this - I'm sure she'll be interested (although no avatar cat fights, please)

[Mallard60022]

Yo!

Duck.

[Herbert Nigel]

Mon Dieu, Monsieur Hallade's technique applied to the Duck's railway. Formidable!

[Captain Kernow]

Beaucoup de fromage!

[Dunsignalling]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bachmann-2/191755923675?_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131017132637%26meid%3D70584027a51f4b1ea9c23a3dde7276a1%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D191755923675

I posted this on ANTB yesterday I don't know if you have seen it, it's quiet an interesting Bachmann item on ebay  

Quite the opposite of Poor Railhead Conditions.......

[Northroader]

Versines, droppers, who needs em when you can get her to help with the track?

[eastwestdivide]

Screen captures: apparently there's a Snipping Tool built in to Windows from Windows 7 onwards:

http://windows.microsoft.com/en-gb/windows/use-snipping-tool-capture-screen-shots#1TC=windows-8

or Start > All Programs > Accessories > Snipping Tool

 

and to get back to the spirit of the thread...

fnarr fnarr, Snipping Tool: [insert own joke here]