Jump to content
 

OO Gauge class 71 Electric Locomotive


DJM Dave
 Share

Recommended Posts

Bogie retaining brackets.

 

I am trying to decide what to do about these.

I just fitted one as a test, in order for the loco to negotiate my curves and points it needs to sit out as far as shown.

Not sure this looks very good.

 

Any ideas other than leave them off?

 

Here is how they should look (Dave's photos)

 

attachicon.gifears.jpg

That's because they where not attached to the bogie, they are the body lifting brackets and the bogie support to stop the weight of the bogie hanging on the bogie pivot when lifting.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Did a bit of a haulage test tonight.  8 bogies including 3 aly body Maunsells which are heavy. Coped readily

On Sunday I got mine to pull 10 Bachmann Mark 1s around my garden layout which includes a 30 ft. length at 1 in 75. As you say, it coped readily.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Amazing what you can see when its bigger, is the off set/centre handrails prototypical? never saw that before.

 

I noticed that on a photo (or was it the video) earlier in the thread. Not all are like it ... it looks like an error on that particular example. The holes that the rails fit into also seem to have "erupted" as well. Another (blue one) has those eruptions on the side. Mine should arrive today after six days in the post so I'll be checking it carefully.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I noticed that on a photo (or was it the video) earlier in the thread. Not all are like it ... it looks like an error on that particular example. The holes that the rails fit into also seem to have "erupted" as well. Another (blue one) has those eruptions on the side. Mine should arrive today after six days in the post so I'll be checking it carefully.

 

Been thinking about this all night :( thing is when I look at the loco even with my glasses on this issue does not notice that much.

But in close up photos it sticks out like a fly in your soup :(

I have looked at it under the magnifier and its a case of misaligned holes so there is no fettling it out and yes the blobs of glue don't help.

 

Still love the loco and just want to find a way to fix it?????

Link to post
Share on other sites

OK, mine has been un-boxed and had an initial check, it is now safely back in its box whilst I finish off some other bits before I give it a more detailed inspection and then run it in on DC before fitting the DCC chip. I won't post pictures as it doesn't look any different from the excellent detailed pictures & videos posted by others. :D

What I will say is that I am most impressed with the inserts, especially the quality of the cards (Stop Notice, Certificate and DJModels card). I also like the dense black foam (I have seen this before in the Kernow O2 and Beattie well tank) which gives much better support to the delicate contents.

One question is that I have an aged H&M Clipper: -

post-3433-0-72053300-1495023651_thumb.jpg

Is this OK for running in on DC, I am planning to have the wave switch in "Full", but what about the resistance switch?

Link to post
Share on other sites

OK, mine has been un-boxed and had an initial check, it is now safely back in its box whilst I finish off some other bits before I give it a more detailed inspection and then run it in on DC before fitting the DCC chip. I won't post pictures as it doesn't look any different from the excellent detailed pictures & videos posted by others. :D

What I will say is that I am most impressed with the inserts, especially the quality of the cards (Stop Notice, Certificate and DJModels card). I also like the dense black foam (I have seen this before in the Kernow O2 and Beattie well tank) which gives much better support to the delicate contents.

One question is that I have an aged H&M Clipper: -

attachicon.gifIMGP3086.JPG

Is this OK for running in on DC, I am planning to have the wave switch in "Full", but what about the resistance switch?

 

 

100% keep the wave switch on full, half wave will cripple the motor.

Resistance set to high is the best option.

Mine has run on my Safety Minor but I did add a 500uH choke and 10uF non polarised capacitor to limit any noise.

No issues at all.

 

post-1423-0-80677700-1495028599_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

I take great interest in this discussion although I have nothing to actually contribute. However, I do have a suggestion: Given that tis issue has now been discussed in at least two threads (and I think more), perhaps it is time to have a "controllers for coreless motors" thread under another heading?

 

Mod - Any chance to move the last few posts to a new location? I think it would be a great benefit rather than being tucked away here in the Class 71 thread.

 

Thanks,

 

Roy

Link to post
Share on other sites

100% keep the wave switch on full, half wave will cripple the motor.

Resistance set to high is the best option.

Mine has run on my Safety Minor but I did add a 500uH choke and 10uF non polarised capacitor to limit any noise.

No issues at all.

 

attachicon.gifIMG_4772.JPG

 

In my experience, the half wave switch is capable of burning out a Wrenn Motor whose armatures were factory tested at 500 volts let alone the Coreless in a DJM class 71!

 

(safety notice : please do not try to run your trains by connecting your rails to the house hold mains - even if you have a Wrenn loco, just don't do it. The factory test was just the armature alone prior to being fitted to the motor using special equipment).

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

In my experience, the half wave switch is capable of burning out a Wrenn Motor whose armatures were factory tested at 500 volts let alone the Coreless in a DJM class 71!

 

(safety notice : please do not try to run your trains by connecting your rails to the house hold mains - even if you have a Wrenn loco, just don't do it. The factory test was just the armature alone prior to being fitted to the motor using special equipment).

 

I would imagine that is an insulation test using a megga or similar which is completely different from feeding across the coils with 500V - i.e nothing to do with it's current handling ability!

Link to post
Share on other sites

I would imagine that is an insulation test using a megga or similar which is completely different from feeding across the coils with 500V - i.e nothing to do with it's current handling ability!

There is no real value to the current, it's all volts. Double working voltage is called for. We had "Megger" testers on the S & T dept and the favorite trick was to connect one between the outlet pipe on the hand basin and the tap. When someone tried wash their hands, a swift turn of the megger handle would make them jump back. "Water hot today?" was the question.

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Pleased to say that, after a bumpy start, I've got my green Cl.71 up and running. The problem I had was that I purchased my sound decoders from Charlie Petty back in December at which time none of the production models were available for testing etc.

 

After running-in my green Cl.71 the decoder was installed and, much to my amazement, the loco ran like a startled jack rabbit. After trying CV54 fix it was even worse.

 

After contacting DJM and Charlie Petty the problem was solved for me by legomanbiffo who explained that the earlier decoders (like the ones I got) were set up using a pre-production model  the innards of which were different to those in the production models. Within a few hours Bif had provided me with a list of CVs to change on my decoders and within minutes I had a smooth-running loco. Great service and assistance from all concerned.

 

So, time for a couple of pictures, firstly loco and train climbing the incline:

 

post-586-0-66424200-1495047965.jpg

 

Lurking in the EMU carriage sidings was the model's distant cousin:

 

post-586-0-37354600-1495048011.jpg

 

Next picture is not for the purists, if you don't want to start jumping up and down don't look at this picture :no:  :senile: . My interests are mixed and what I like appears on my layout which is still under construction. One thing I do have is an interest in things green so thought it only right that E5004 should meet its new friends from Russia and Austria/Hungary:

 

post-586-0-61835700-1495048046.jpg

 

Pity modern propulsion systems were not available when E5004 was built. Think it would sound great if it had the musical tones of the GySEV Taurus accelerating away. I

 

Keith

  • Like 12
Link to post
Share on other sites

A question.

 

In my video does the handrail issue show up that much?

I'll base my next actions on what you say so be honest :)

 

 

Use the time codes if you don't want to watch the whole thing again.

Thanks.

 

0:00 start (best place)
0:25 History of the model
1:42 first close look at the model
3:02 the unboxing bit (it's long at all)
3:41 Accessories 
4:07 Fitting headcodes and body opening (option 1)
4:40 Oiling, so easy
5:08 Fitting shoe gear
5:34 A look at pantograph and shoes
6:20 Coreless motor! Caution
6:36 Buffer beam removal to fit headcodes (option 2)
7:12 Running in service
9:56 What on earth is a booster?

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Nothing wrong with the handrails. Watch from 1.42 as the model rotates, and at 1.59, facing the camera, it all looks perfectly symmetrical to me. I think camera angles, perspective and parallax all have a role in deceiving us. This looks fine to me. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Nothing wrong with the handrails. Watch from 1.42 as the model rotates, and at 1.59, facing the camera, it all looks perfectly symmetrical to me. I think camera angles, perspective and parallax all have a role in deceiving us. This looks fine to me. 

 

Thanks, its the 4A headcode end :) 6:29 shows it a bit, but like you I am thinking this might not be a problem when its running etc

Link to post
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...