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Right, still no AJ wire but I'm assured it's on it's way, plus I've ordered some 10 gauge Ernie Ball guitar strings to experiment with as this is a lighter gauge wire & also comes coiled much looser then the wire that you get from EMGS or Eileen's meening it's nice & straight to start with.

 

No chance to get anything done last night as an unexpected visit from friends that ended with them staying till the small hours & having just one or two beers the evening was a none starter for modelling, but this afternoon I have managed to claw back a coupe of hours while the kids were out with the wife. Been working on the RSH tank & will be continuing with it after I've put the kids to bed, I'm determined to get it ready for the two September shows.

 

Most likely a few pics & update in the morning.

 

Cheers

Chris

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bit late to add this perhaps, but 

The tower will eventually have a water tank added to the top, the question being whether it should be a shallow one that fits the full dimensions of the tower or a half / three quarter width one with the remaining part being walled in and having access from the tower, and a ladder up the tank side. The latter is my favoured option as otherwise, how would they have access to maintain it? Maybe I give these things too much thought.

 

 

Fred Dibnah with a lot of ladders and a bit of rope.

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Right.......

 

Later than promised.

 

The saddle is just resting in place with a bit of blutak under it but everything else is soldered in place. I now have the correct wheels so they'll go on tomorrow & I'll maybe start work on the pickups.

 

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More tomorrow night I should think......

 

Cheers

Chris

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Is it me, or do the cylinders look too short for the slide bars ? As they need to contain a piston as well, the length of travel inside the cylinder looks a lot less than the length needed by the travelling distance of the motion.

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Is it me, or do the cylinders look too short for the slide bars ? As they need to contain a piston as well, the length of travel inside the cylinder looks a lot less than the length needed by the travelling distance of the motion.

Not sure. You'll have to take that one up with Chris Gibbons.

 

In the flesh it looks & works fine.

 

 

Chris

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Is it me, or do the cylinders look too short for the slide bars ? As they need to contain a piston as well, the length of travel inside the cylinder looks a lot less than the length needed by the travelling distance of the motion.

There's also the glandy thingy to the rear of the cylinder Stu and that adds to the length of piston travel that the cylinder can accommodate. Looks fine to me.

 

Edit, the wheels are also a small diameter and the crank appears quite close to the wheel centre and that means there won't be much piston travel. I doubt it goes all the way in (oo-er missus)

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It's normal for slide bars to be longer than the cylinders. If a loco has a stroke of 24" and 30" Wheels the slide bars are bound to be longer than the cylinders. Also keep in mind that the crosshead is a lot wider than the piston and there is going to have to be some of the slide bar that doesn't carry the crosshead directly.

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Having a piston rod longer than strictly needed was an advantage for maintenance. All that was necessary to do a P&V (Piston and Valves) exam was to remove the gudgeon pin and push the crosshead far enough forward to allow the piston to emerge from the front of the cylinder. This is a LOT easier than splitting the piston rod from the crosshead - take it from me!

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With the birth of my daughter Sara 10 days ago, I have been incredibly busy (and a bit grumpy) and not had much time to do any modelling. However, I have done some, namely the girder bridge and the covered walkway between the mill and the loading shed.

 

The girder bridge has now been completed and weathered and is ready to be attached on the layout (currently at Chris's house)

 

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post-9707-0-58840700-1441044137_thumb.jpg

 

 

The connecting bridge is a bit rough and ready (and still needs to be weathered and distressed). It's already had to be reduced in height and if I am honest, I'm not too happy with it but it will do for Expo EM. It's purpose (apart from being the connection between the two buildings) is to further hide the fiddle yard. It's corrugated iron and will be rusted to bu55ery when finished.

 

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post-9707-0-96120000-1441044513_thumb.jpg

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Hi Mate, As we've had the conversations about Sara, and all the good news that that brings, its good to see you Modelling again, the rust on the Bridge is so good, now all I/we need now is a detailed explanation of how that finish was achieved please?

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Eyup mate......

 

Girder bridge looks exceptionally good, fantastic finish on it. The Mill/Loading shed over bridge looks great also, like you say once it's had some weathering & such it'll look the part.

 

Made a bit more progress with the RSH tank over the weekend, nothing done this evening but over the rest of the week I should be able to crack on with it.

 

Chris

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Yes must say that congrats is in order for the new bub... Modeling will wane for a while.... Enjoy it they will grow up too fast... my eldest is now 12! :O and it doesnt seem all that long ago he was in my arms as a baby... bit lanky now the arms and legs hang out every where....though they are fun. I can still lift him up and make him laugh :jester: ....  not too long until I can't....

 

Modelling will always be there the kids get older though.... 

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Cheers all.

 

The weathering was done using my usual method, using a mix of Humbrol's Matt Black and Leather on a palette (old jam jar lid) then weathering powders used sparingly.

 

First, and a section at a time, I apply a thinned wash (milk consistency) to the area, leave it for a minute and then using decent cotton buds, wipe it off in downward strokes. Once a full side has been done, I then get a finer brush and use the same paint to dry brush the rivet heads, add rust patches, etc., starting from the drier end.

 

Before it has fully dried, I then use another fine (old) brush and apply the weathering powder (Humbrol again) to the rusty areas. I use both earth brown and black for this as the 'rust' shades are far too bright; established rust is far darker. Look at the back of an old truck next time you are following one and you'll notice that the rust is dark brown and often has mucky streaks running vertically from the bottom of it where rain has taken it downwards over the paint.

 

I use the same method for wagons, including the ironwork on vans and suchlike.

 

And yes, it's feeding time (as well as nappy change after a rectal volcano eruption) :)

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Cheers all.

The weathering was done using my usual method, using a mix of Humbrol's Matt Black and Leather on a palette (old jam jar lid) then weathering powders used sparingly.

First, and a section at a time, I apply a thinned wash (milk consistency) to the area, leave it for a minute and then using decent cotton buds, wipe it off in downward strokes. Once a full side has been done, I then get a finer brush and use the same paint to dry brush the rivet heads, add rust patches, etc., starting from the drier end.

Before it has fully dried, I then use another fine (old) brush and apply the weathering powder (Humbrol again) to the rusty areas. I use both earth brown and black for this as the 'rust' shades are far too bright; established rust is far darker. Look at the back of an old truck next time you are following one and you'll notice that the rust is dark brown and often has mucky streaks running vertically from the bottom of it where rain has taken it downwards over the paint.

I use the same method for wagons, including the ironwork on vans and suchlike.

And yes, it's feeding time (as well as nappy change after a rectal volcano eruption) :)

 

Nice description......

 

The weathering advice was useful as well....

 

Andy

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Looking really good Jason.

 

Congratulations on your new baby, hope thing are going well. And if you think the nether regions are dangerous wait till you encounter weathering via means of projectile vomit :)

 

All the best mate, you have some real fun ahead of you, enjoy every minute, it passes more quickly than you can imagine.

 

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Just a reminder that the layout will be at Expo EM North this coming weekend (12th & 13th) and the Shipley show the weekend after (19th & 20th).

 

Hope to see ALL of you at both exhibitions, no excuses :)

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Just a reminder that the layout will be at Expo EM North this coming weekend (12th & 13th) and the Shipley show the weekend after (19th & 20th).

 

Hope to see ALL of you at both exhibitions, no excuses :)

Hi Mate, I wish I could make it, have a good show, both weekends.

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