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LNER Models in 4mm


micklner
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All top class models, but that A3 is utterly magnificent! :wub:

 

Dave.

 

Certainly echo that; they are lovely and capture the 'essence' of those locos superbly well.

 

Cheers

 

Mike

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  • 4 weeks later...

Bachmann J39 with stepped tender. As far as I know Bachmann have never done this version in LNER livery ?

Based on a photo of a J39 at Ripon in 1936. I removed all the moulding lines and repsrayed using Halfords Matt Black and HMRS Transfers. I added another oil lubricator and a wheel/handle to the smokebox as per photo. Then a light weathering.

I only had a tatty secondhand J39 before this one and am surprised at how good the detail is on the loco.

 

 

 

post-7186-127730780765_thumb.jpg

 

post-7186-12773078277_thumb.jpg

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The Silver Jubilee's are looking good Mick. Is the J39 the new Bachman chassis as opposed to the previous split type (I have have a crab that runs superb with the new type chassis)?

 

Rob

Its another ebay find as is Enterprise ;) , a split chassis which I am pleased to say runs well at the mo and hopefully will stay that way :D. I didnt know they had made a new chassis for the J39 ?

 

Mick

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Me thinks that I would check out the return crank.

 

OzzyO.

 

I presume you mean Enterprise? it is a renaming exercise not a full rebuild. If you can suggest any improvement and how ?? it will be of great interest.

 

 

thanks

 

Mick

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What our friend means, Mick, is that the return crank should be almost over the centre boss of the middle driver. Have a look at this pic and it shows it. I'm sure you've got a broadside one somewhere you can use to position it.

 

Neil Dimmer photo of Pretty Polly

 

I will have a look to see if I have one for the "offside" I know Hornby use a slot for a locator for the rods i will see if it can be moved without wrecking everything :blink::blink::blink:

 

cheers

 

Mick

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Mick,

 

all I was saying is that the return crank should be in-advance of the center of the driving wheel by about 15 degrees about 1mm, that is when the rods are at bottom dead center. The one on 'Enterprise' look to be retarded by about 60 degrees.

 

OzzyO.

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What our friend means, Mick, is that the return crank should be almost over the centre boss of the middle driver. Have a look at this pic and it shows it. I'm sure you've got a broadside one somewhere you can use to position it.

 

Neil Dimmer photo of Pretty Polly

 

 

The one of 60046 at King Cross may show it a bit better, or just about any loco with outside Walschaerts vale gear but not the Merchant Naves etc.

 

OzzyO.

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Mick,

 

all I was saying is that the return crank should be in-advance of the center of the driving wheel by about 15 degrees about 1mm, that is when the rods are at bottom dead center. The one on 'Enterprise' look to be retarded by about 60 degrees.

 

OzzyO.

 

I will have a look and post the result !!

 

cheers

 

Mick

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As mentioned before Enterprise is a ebay find. I simply tested the chassis by powering across the motor contacts on arrival, the chassis had been bought without the body and tender. I never thought to check anything else!!

On looking at the return crank it was very wrong. On trying to run, the chassis was dead after a lot of fiddling . I established the pick ups on one side werent making contact with the chassis body and this was then adjusted to establish contact and problem cured. Whilst doing this on the other side of the chassis, that return crank fell off as well.:( i also straightened the bent bracket above the crank !!

 

A proper check was now made, everything tightened and refitted in the correct positions. I now have a correct running chassis.:D

It makes me wonder what on earth some people do to models in their possesion. It would appear for what ever reason ? someone had pulled the chassis apart. Probably trying to cure the pick up problem , but obviously never found the fault !! and then never knew how to put the pieces back on in the correct positions.

post-7186-12774842127_thumb.jpg

 

 

Many thanks for pointing the wrong position of the crank , it has taught me a good lesson for the future !! check your purchase on arrival

 

 

thanks

 

Mick

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Rob

Its another ebay find as is Enterprise ;) , a split chassis which I am pleased to say runs well at the mo and hopefully will stay that way :D. I didnt know they had made a new chassis for the J39 ?

 

Mick

 

Hi Mick, I didn't either which was why I asked (half hoping, but admittedly the only other Bachmann loco I have is the NRM edition Green Arrow which also runs very well for a split chassis but I believe unless you are unlucky that they run well to start with but deteriorate over time) the crab is DCC ready and really runs lovely.

 

PS just remembered I have a slit chassis J72 from Bachmann as well.

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My old ropey J39 is still going strong over a year since a drop of WD40 on each of the axles. It was going in the bin prior to this . There has been no obvious adverse effect on the chassis so far. I also have a Bachmann J72 very noisy but goes well, which is more than can be said for the Mainline version it replaced.

 

Mick

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As mentioned before Enterprise is a ebay find. I simply tested the chassis by powering across the motor contacts on arrival, the chassis had been bought without the body and tender. I never thought to check anything else!!

On looking at the return crank it was very wrong. On trying to run, the chassis was dead after a lot of fiddling . I established the pick ups on one side werent making contact with the chassis body and this was then adjusted to establish contact and problem cured. Whilst doing this on the other side of the chassis, that return crank fell off as well.sad.gif i also straightened the bent bracket above the crank !!

 

A proper check was now made, everything tightened and refitted in the correct positions. I now have a correct running chassis.biggrin.gif

It makes me wonder what on earth some people do to models in their possesion. It would appear for what ever reason ? someone had pulled the chassis apart. Probably trying to cure the pick up problem , but obviously never found the fault !! and then never knew how to put the pieces back on in the correct positions.

post-7186-12774842127_thumb.jpg

 

 

Many thanks for pointing the wrong position of the crank , it has taught me a good lesson for the future !! check your purchase on arrival

 

 

thanks

 

Mick

 

 

I know it may sound wrong but the return cranks are at approx 15degs. forward on both sides.

 

If you get a M/N, BoB etc. they are retarded by about the same amount. All to do withe the valve events.

 

 

OzzyO.

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Hi Mick,

 

The silver Jubilee is coming along and looking good. One thing is the wheels on the Silver Jubilee were painted the silver/aluminium grey and the wheel rims were painted white according to drawings and information I have. I must admit I painted the wheels after I fitted them in the bogies. But with a fine sable brush I was able to paint them without getting paint on any of the axles, etc. Off course you can make it like you want it, but it will improve the look that much more.

 

great job on them, look forward to the triplet set. Obviously you are making the seven car set and not the post 1938 8 car set. I have done the same.

 

Mark in Oz

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I know it may sound wrong but the return cranks are at approx 15degs. forward on both sides.

 

If you get a M/N, BoB etc. they are retarded by about the same amount. All to do withe the valve events.

 

 

OzzyO.

 

Yes they are both in a forward position on the model !!:P

 

post-7186-127755718626_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mick

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