farren

I’ve just picked up a couple of Bachmann 170s from eBay, and have to say they are lovely models. They are the older model with the motor just visible in the centre car but still I’m not complaining. One has never been out of the box and runs like a dream. The other one needs a new motor which turned up before the trains got here. But it has been re-gauged to em or p4 never remember. The wheels are 18.2 with a rule if that helps. I was wondering if anyone was planning to convert theirs. And would they be willing to swap for the standard wheel set? One wheel set is visible in the image if that helps. secondary How do you covert them to dcc? Obviously a decoder for the centre coach with the motor. But do I need on in each end coach to work the lights?

Good luck with the house move, hope all goes well and the decoration doesn’t become too much of a headache. it will be very interesting to see the new layout evolve and come together. I’m in a similar position with stock at the moment. I have something around 70 locos. And to be honest many don’t get run anywhere near enough to justify keeping them. I have recently bought an old Lima HST which has had some body repair work done to it and the yellow is drying has I type. So currently thinking about layout based in the 70/80s. I do like the shelter.

Thank you, I think you are right I’ve down some of the wheels again this time I dug out the mini drill with the wire brush and went to town on a couple of the wheels and it seems to have worked the locomotive is running much better needs a good running in session. And the brake gear needs a little adjustment now but it works. Think it needs some weight adding has it’s a little over 3,1/2 ounces has it stands

Has anyone ever had a faulty set Market wheels before? Erratic motor, running runs for a bit then stops sometimes restarts sometimes have to reset the transformer. smoke can sometimes be seen coming off the wheels and sparks on the wheel backs. I have cleaned the wheels with isopropanol alcohol, didn’t work white spirit and even sand paper the back face still happening. Checked the chassis brake rigging all clear of the wheel guards are not touching the track. Have re-wired it all using plastic bodied plunger pick ups swapped the motor out and still is not working. Fitting flat washers behind the wheels, Last option is to get a new set of wheels.

Well after a slight problem with the wiper pickups I decided to switch to the plunger type unfortunately I bent some of the brake gear so decided to strip the whole chassis back its parts and start again. The motor runs fine but can’t move the chassis with one set of wheels. There’s a slight concern I get a little plumb of smoke from the back right wheel. I’m guessing it’s something burning off maybe oil or something. Has the motor is unaffected and the transformer doesn’t trip. Nothing is touching such as breakgear. But will give it a wash tomorrow and see if that cures it.

Major breakthrough today the wheels have arrived, yes we can gloss over the fact that some person in the works department ordered 3 wheels the first time thinking 3 was 3 sets. But anyway the model is on its wheels the motor is in only temporary at the moment. Will be removed well the brakes and other bits are fixed. Might need to shave a mm or 2 of the motor’s rear part of the shaft it fits but once wired up it might course problems.

Quite a bit of work has been done, I’ve fitted the boiler dome chimney water feed for the tank. The roof has some sprung brass soldered to keep the roof in place plus lots of other little bits lamp irons steps and a strip on the grate etc. some rivet detail will be added with the help of rivet transfers when the model is in its undercoat. spotted a bit to adjust thanks to the images. That rivet strip just behind the chimney will never do.

Dose anyone know where I can get a 18mm midland style smoke box door. The ones with the dog leg bolts please

well quite a bit more work has been added some detail, I have been taking notes from what Jamie ( ) well at the same time referring to many images from some of my books. ( though I did catch myself trying to zoom one picture has you would on a screen!! I had a late night in my defence.

Hi I’m afraid the bosses came with the kit. I don’t know of anyone who sells them separately. However I might do an etch set for myself in the future. Has a second class member would be lovely to have.

Thank you. Once I had heated the the tank etch on the gas hob I found it behaved quite well, and to tell the truth I did use the resin tank as a former base for the brass etch. Once formed to the correct shape I slowly slide it out as I soldered each forming/ stiffening plat in place. Made the whole process much easier.

Yes. The humble class 23. It’s has a charm that midland shutters seem to be missing, either that or I just like saddle tanks. It’s LRM kit and is a nice kit to build, the kit comes with a choice of a resin tank or a brass etches to build one. I was going to go with the resin but decided in the end to tackle the etches which wasn’t that troublesome in the end. Been looking at some images of the class 23’s in my books and there’s some lovely little variations which can be modelled. Imagines may be added later or if required by anyone. The question is should I buy a second. anyway here’s where the model is up to, the wheels have been ordered and I’m hoping they will arrive tomorrow.

Well the coaches lost out, wheels on order and already have the the motor gearbox for this. So should be a relative quick and easy build.

Well I dug out the L&YR BTK to finish needs couplings fitted and the roof glued. Which will get done probably tomorrow. It’s been let long waiting to be finished the running department sent it to be re-painted into LMS livery. It looks much better, the white roof had gotten a little grubby to be honest and thought I’d just repaint it LMS. Next I have a L&YR CK kit to build, and a couple Stanier BCKs of two different diagrams, either that or I might break out the L&YR Saddle tank.

Oh I understand now, why gender bender has suddenly turned up. now Addy you are going to have to make a decision. Gender bender may seem offensive to some others will find ‘male’ and ‘female’ offensive because the don’t identify with those terms.

Nothing wrong with the word gender bender, a word I came across a lot in A level sociological. Just means a person who bends social rules forced upon them by their society expectations of their gender. So a Tomboy could be classed as one. however I did wonder what a gender bender connection was. Female to female is so much more helpful.

Well I can’t find how to reset the main controller even if it’s possible. Other than turning it on and off. But I’ve set the emf cv to 0. Runs perfect now. So I’m happy with that. I might play with the settings another day but for now it runs properly. Thank you for your help.

I’ve noticed my Bachmann LNWR 2-4-0. Seems to be running in a wave. Sitting the speed at 1 model runs roughly half speed then slows down only to speed back up in a wave. The higher speed the wave gets less, right up full power speed step 28 model runs almost at a constant speed. The decoder is a Bachmann 21 pin and the controller is the Gauge master dcc controller. I have done a reset CV 8 to 8. With no change. Any ideas welcome. the track is clean all other locos run normally.

Thank you Baz and ccteasuk, will be ordering some next week when time permits. only modelling done recently was buying a new tank engine sold has a bad runner £55~, so won’t complain. just needed a little tlc and she runs much better. Though the pickups are old and aren’t staying in place so will need new ones soldering have added a little detail which needs painting but nothing over the top. Might build some better coupling rods. The Coronation has had a dcc decoder fitted.

Thank you Baz, sorry for delay in responding, decorating has taken longer then expected, will be watching with interest.

Thank you, totally went under the radar, that one.

So where’s the summer update? Feb to June is four months.

Thank you Brian, I’m quite pleased with the model worked out better then I thought it would have.

Well after rebuilding the cylinders it runs much better, I say better it now runs round the curves which is handy. found a bargain on fleebay no one bid on it so ended up paying £50 for it. Wanted one since the Railway Constructer anneal 1981 came out. I switched the tender to a Bachmann one to reduce dead weight and give it a modern day coupling. Runs lovely it’s had a repaint and new identity given to match the riveted tender. It’s DC but I’ve decided I’ll change one line to dc to run it and other kit built locos one. Saves me blowing chips trying to convert them. did buy some tack wagon transfers but I have feelings their wrong for the era. Will need to do some research on that

Well I can’t see it on here, but it can’t be a secret considering the email I just received. I’m going to guess a J94 is likely