farren

So where’s the summer update? Feb to June is four months.

Thank you Brian, I’m quite pleased with the model worked out better then I thought it would have.

Well after rebuilding the cylinders it runs much better, I say better it now runs round the curves which is handy. found a bargain on fleebay no one bid on it so ended up paying £50 for it. Wanted one since the Railway Constructer anneal 1981 came out. I switched the tender to a Bachmann one to reduce dead weight and give it a modern day coupling. Runs lovely it’s had a repaint and new identity given to match the riveted tender. It’s DC but I’ve decided I’ll change one line to dc to run it and other kit built locos one. Saves me blowing chips trying to convert them. did buy some tack wagon transfers but I have feelings their wrong for the era. Will need to do some research on that

Well I can’t see it on here, but it can’t be a secret considering the email I just received. I’m going to guess a J94 is likely

Sorry missed the reply, That’s quite a lineup of black, particularly like the Fowler 2f tank engine.

The BUT, it work’s fine on the straight line however it doesn’t go round the curves. The the bogies kept hitting the chassis and the valve gear slids and cross head bar. The cylinder are just too narrow. So I’ve built some comet ones which are wider on the gauge by about two mm this puts the cylinder hole further out by about the same. allowing the bogies more space to turn. Obviously the cylinders gauge is now out however most of the cylinder is under the footplate valance so i cut it to fit and the bottom cut to shape has the Caprotti Claughton cylinder has a angle from the centre line sweeping inward to go behind footplate valance. image might help to explain better below. All is assuming the the kits foot plate is correct width. But I am not going down that road has it would only bug me and before long I’d be starting to build a new model from scratch. So once the cylinders are fitted the whole cylinder sliding action is now further apart well keeping the gauge. Should allow the locomotive go round curves. Well that’s the plan! I managed to get solder in the tube which has meant I’m awaiting parts to arrive. Currently back on the workbench

Well it worked video of it running on the dcc layout. BUT!

Well I did the washout plugs which I kept forgetting to do, finished this side of the lining other side needs some thing lining added which I’ve ran out off but have ordered, and a dcc decoder. Will fit the crew. About done unless I’ve forgotten something.

I think I’ll do a plan black loco next! the yellow over run on the on the cab sides wild be corrected with a touch of black paint. And yes the holes were painted

They are HMRS transfers, cottonbuds to wet them, cocktail sticks to move them about and a good paint brush to brush them down. Nothing special just patience and practice. And a fresh scapulblade so the blade doesn’t snag the transfer sheet.

There seems to be an abundance of Garratts, Lovely.

The lining is going to take a few days and I haven’t been looking forward to it but so far so good. Wheel weights ands bossed are fitted. And don’t interfere with the running.

Well it’s a runner needs a top coat and lining doing plus wheel weights and wheel bosses. Buffers and safety valves. Other than that it’s pretty much done.

Well it’s coming along, the value gear is built and fitted even tested and it all runs fine nothing catastrophic happened. The front bogie is a concern I used the Hornby one re drilled the hole about 3 mm further back in the bogie bracket and had to extend the channel in the chassis the bogie sits in by the same. Also cut the bottom back of the cylinders out to let the bogie swing a little more. Also switch the wheels to some markits Stanier ones It’s going to be tight. I am hoping it will run on the layout. need to try and get rid of that dent behind the pipe work, must have learned on something Will doing the other side hand rails.

I was having a look at the drawing last night, and I saw you message sorry I didn’t get back sooner. If the valences are out that is something I think is beyond my cutting skills and would be a waste of brass. I’ve upload the drawings onto the lap from the book. I’m in doubts with trying to do new etches for the this kit. so I think I’ll draw up a set for the small boiler version, on the plus side I found another chassis in one of the boxes off bits so this build will carry on. I’ve cut the chassis different to the last one. Will need to make a false sides for the front under the drop plate. The front seems better I just hope the nothing is wrong with the drive. Seems okay though.

Well it’s was going great, the motor didn’t fit but that was easily fixed I removed the boiler forming plate and the boiler stayed in position tacked it to the body fix done. Then I noticed the wheels weren’t in gauging with the motor anymore. Only broke the peg on the motor mount and it’s stuck in the casting. So the chassis is only good for the bin. Oh joy happy day etc. dug out the kit chassis. It’s terrible, its to long, the wheels don’t line up with the cut out of the splasher cutouts unless you cut a bit of the front and back of but if you do that the cylinders are 2-4 mm to far forward. So now it’s either designed my own and cut them out or I design a set on the pc and get them etched. the first being faster the second will give a better finish,

Getting close to finishing the body, the boiler handrails and pipes need fitting along with the smoke box door hinge. Need to make a cab floor and some details. I do like how the steam pipe comes up though the drop plate and not in front of the buffer beam on the Claughton. A simple detail to add drill a hole pop a some washer on the steam pipe on pop in the hole.

That’s looking suitably grubby there, with an array of indistinguishable black locomotives. I do like the neglected atmosphere of steam in BR days.

A much more productive day today. I think it’s starting to look like a Claughton.

Well it’s been a fun fulled head scratching and don’t forge burnt fingers day. I discovered I had switched the datum from one end to the other when I made the plastic chassis extension. Luckily it only meant I had to fill the slots for the cylinders and recut them. The build isn’t to bad but it dose lack any aids of a modern design. Slots drawings and better instructions. been looking at the rest of the kit. I’m going to do the the large boiler Caparotti mainly because I put the joint on the chassis to close to where the motion bracket would go. The kit seems to be missing the large boiler etch so just have to make one. Also missing the dome which hopefully an alternative can be found.

Thank you I think I’m going to be reading your topic quite a bit. I was just looking at the cab end short stop. Wondering if there’s was something I had missed or the cab rubplate was going to sort that out. Just had a quick look at the moment but saw the drawing you used. Where did you get that from?

The great thing with brass is if you get it wrong, you and just unsolder it clean it up and mess it up again and again untilll you get it right. When I started I bought some tools and brass got some Cheap scale drawings and set about totally clueless. Found some websites read a lot asked many a daft question and slowly improved. I’d know class myself as a beginner with experience. I have to admit I’m happiest tinkering with a bit of brass when modelling. There is always a worry when you take a perfectly good model and put a saw to it.

Did a bit more, there’s no cut outs for the wheels which I’ll do tomorrow lights fading, so it’s basically sitting on the wheels but it show’s promise

After scratching my and lot, I remember I had a spare frame in a box. So I’ve cut the front of and copied the front of the Claughton frames and made a composite frame..well. it’s made from 12 layers with shaped sides making a sandwich. Front is the glued and pegged to the Hornby spare chassis. The green putty is to soften the lip once painted I don’t think it will show too much. 46256 i know other people have made dcc kits but the last lot I built the L&YR class 23 page or two back i blow the chip on the test track. The model run perfect on Ac so it’s probably my on fault when testing it. But it’s A annoying, B expensive. I’ll pluck up courage one day. K22009 you know that back wheel is just slightly off. 1/4 mm maybe I could probably get away with using the Hornby coupling rods. Leaving more spares for a second engine.

Funny I’m yet to find a Hornby model with such issues, the blue coronation coaches run beautifully along with the four princess Royals and a coronation over the last couple of years. Accurascale thought buffer missing on one wagon and the Deltic, bits in the box, chains Brake just looking at it. Engine room light do they have one mine doesn’t the tail lights only work on one side. It’s going back.