N15class

What you are doing really looks good. If that is your layout the ballasting etc looks good.

But I am sorry I cannot see why you would go to all this trouble and still have the horrible skirts to the boiler. For me no matter how much detail you add it will all be wasted.

Hi Pete, interesting to see a radial axle box in model form, your post has just made me read up on them. You're a busy man, what with the Ivatt and G6 also!

 

PS: I like mongrels, they have character :-)

Well you have to make things interesting. I had to stop the Ivatt I need parts, the competition is just poor timing. You forgot I have not finished the 0395 class either.

And ne'er the twain shall meet?

I am hoping they will meet even hoping it will be close to the right place too

I am with Ivan (horsetan) the long firebox really lets down the work you have done. It can be removed and then infill with a suitably bent piece of plasticard.  I also would of given the bogie a centre pivot with some side control so it steered the loco rather than doing nothing. It makes the loco behave so much better.

doing these to items will change it from toy like to a model of the prototype.

Next, scales and gauges

 

On30 appears to be like OO9; a generic combination originally using proprietary track and mechanisms from another scale, representing a range of gauges between 2' (60cm) and 3' (1m)

 

 

 

3 feet is nominally 900mm/0.9m

Next, rolling stock

 

 

I'll summarise this by saying that the Bachmann EBT style hopper cars look ok representing 3' gauge stock, as do the 2-8-0 and 2-6-0 locos but otherwise the Bachmann range seems best regarded as 30"-60cm gauge outline

 

 

AMS flatcars and tank cars are 3' size, negotiate Bachmann radius curves and are value for money. No gondola or frameless tank car, though. The colours are a bit vivid so I foresee learning to weather and detail somewhere in my modelling future!

 

 

San Juan Car Co models are quite magnificent, bring money! They CAN be made to negotiate Bachmann radii but look ridiculous doing so.

 

 

There is a bewildering variety of couplers. Essentially, dedicated 3' gauge outline has larger couplers at a higher level. The solution appears to be to use "match cars" or to standardise on one or the other - the Bachmann EBT hoppers are easily converted in either direction, as are the AMS units.

 

 

Some MMI locos have low, Bachmann style couplers but this can be remedied if it is a problem.

surely the gauge of the track has no bearing on the track gauge. A 4mm scale loco is 4mm scale whether it runs on 7ft or 2ft gauge track.

I have a selection of domestic and chimneys you could have if that helps...

Love the way the chassis breaks down into components by the way.

Thanks Chris.

It is a kind offer, if I were in the UK it would not matter to much the slow despatch. But when it can take two months in the post it is a bit worrying.

I like to do them this way if I can. I can put the wheels in easily and then test as each part is added. The ivatts to me are easier this way as there is no footplate to hide the difference in frame widths and the cylinders are a good dividing point.

Excellent work Pete, good to see Bill offering advice on the makeup of the under gubbins. What castings are you short of?

I have ordered from Laurie the chimney, dome, tank stays, vents, gauge, and whistle.

But he seems to of gone missing since the weekend you bought your bits.

I am making another order for the G6 I am building for the competition.

Valvegear like that has always frightened me to death. Thankfully the O2 has none and that lovely 1366 only has the basic GWR arrangement. I suspect that the absence or relatively simple visible parts of the valvegear on GWR locos helped with its popularity before the mass of RTR.

I think you are probably right about the GW, but there not much with the LSWR either, just prettier liveries.

I think they ought to make it compulsory to fit inside valve gear on GW engines.

Thanks. That must be very time consuming! Are they kid gloves you're wearing?

It is like most things it all takes time. Paint does not stick to dirt no matter what you are painting. I was told years ago a good paint job will make a good model even better, but will not improve a poorly made one.

I handle it like I am wearing Kid gloves. But actually I wear latex ones.

Pete, how do you go about cleaning up something like this before undercoating? It looks very delicate for sand blasting.

I generally start with a new soft or medium tooth, and scrub with Jif or a Vim style powder, rinsing and scrubbing well to remove any powdery residue. I will then give it another using Viacal or similar. All this is done with gloves on and any thing done after cleaning has the gloves on too.

Also by lightly scrubbing you will find any poorly soldered joints.

I am unsure about grit blasting, as it does not actually clean any grease or oil off unless you do it enough to remove metal. I would like an ultrasonic cleaner. But it is not high on the list.

Progessing well Peter. Any idea what the lizard is?

Thanks

I am pleased with it, Has been a bit of a pain to build, some of which is me.

I do not I have asked SWMBO but her knowledge of wildlife can be written on the back of a stamp.

Exquisite detail!

Thanks

I quite enjoy doing the detail. But with this loco it seems to go on forever.

Yes, and the model's not bad either!

Thanks.

I don't mine having wildlife in our garden even though it is quite small. The only thing I watch out for and try and keep out the house, are the spiders that are as big as your hand.

Cracking work chap, going to be a model to be proud of. Makes my O2 look simple.

Thanks Chris

I would rather be doing an Adam's loco. All the veins are on the inside. Your 02 is looking good.

Brilliant - centre stage for certain!!

 

How does one learn to do this or does one just go at it ?

 

Thanks for the inspiration!

 

Christopher

Thanks Christopher

When I started modifying Airfix kit and building balsa wood aircraft you had to learn by your mistakes, Now with places like RMweb it is so much easier to learn what to do.

The most important thing with model making is to follow what you see in the real world. Never copy models

The lubricators and pipe runs on the Ivatt "2"s can drive you mad, but there are some very helpful photos of preserved examples on Flickr.

I have looked at many photos and the more I looked the worse it became. Most seem to disappear between the frames. A coat of black paint and no one will know they are there.

Thanks Chris

I do miss going to shows. When in the Uk at Christmas our timing was wrong. Arrived to late and left too early. Hopefully your wallet won't feel to much pain. I am in the process of trying to get material from Metalsmiths.

I been thinking about the 02, I think that will wait. I decided to get the castings for the A12 from Slaters and the wheels for the M7. I may even get some for a G6

Have a good show.

Thanks Chris

I have done the roof now. No photos today as I spent too much time looking for a missing step on the tiled floor of the workshop. Still missing I think I need to empty the bucket of scrap frets and brass. I did have to do a lot of work as the cab front and back plate were different to each other and side to side. Serves me right for not checking before assembly.

I have been looking at the 02 as a birthday present from the wife. I have built the Meteor one but not sure of which to do.

 If you build straight from the box I do not know how well it all fits together.

But I tried to build the Maunsell S15, but it is not very dimensionally accurate at all. I ended up just using most of the tender, and an altered boiler unit. The rest I had to scratch build.

Mine was made from the Ace products kit as well, have you got the updated version with better tank sides etc? It may be worth checking and asking William Ascough for any updated parts if it is an old kit.

I presume I have as there are 4 tank sides in the kit. I think I will make all 4 and see which are best fitting. One pair are half etched which may be a bit thin to my mind but wee will see.

Noting your last comment, I look forward to you tackling an LNER 2-6-2, as I have a V3 that someone built for me that is a right dogs breakfast, so will follow what you do and possibly tackle a re-build of the V3 myself!

Mine is from Ace, but some of the etches have McGowens on them so if nothing else it should be interesting. No doubt I will make things more interesting for myself.

Mine is also the V3. I hope what I do will be of help to you.

I did manage to sort the screws out I glad it was not the 10BA as I have loads more of them.

Glad the loco is running well. I do tend to leave them light for a few reasons. First the postage would be prohibitive, but the biggest problem it is almost impossible to get lead here, it is not used on rooves. It seems pointless paying postage on ballast two ways.

The footplate and tanks etchings look similar in methodology to the ones which the old Crownline 4mm conversion kit had.

It is a poor system. A one piece footplate with a folded step would of been better, at least there would not be any problems getting it straight. 

Thanks Bill

I will have to have a look at some more photos. The rear one seems more elusive than the front.

Thanks mikkel

I hide from the carnival. I will go and see it one year in Rio. I think the costumes and floats are great. But it is the noise. Brazilians are loud anyway. The volume is always so high it is distorted. You imagine each group trying to be louder than the next. I watch on telly at least I control the volume.

Thanks Mikkel

I hope it all works out in the end.

That is a very interesting concept.

Good progress there Peter. Looking forward to the next installment.

Thanks

There seemed to be a lot of cutting before I could think about assembly considering it is a kit. Saying that it is 20 years old.