beejack

The Nailsea And District MRC is delighted to announce that the 2022 show is booked for the last weekend in March this year – that is Saturday 26th March and Sunday 27th March. The show will be the usual mixture of Layouts, traders, demonstrations, societies, and LOTS OF LAYOUTS. Venue: Nailsea School, Mizzymead Road, Nailsea, BS48 2LE Plenty of parking available

Just be careful of the spacing of the lights. A 110 might have different spacing to the 117. Maybe worth asking if the leds are on a circuit board or just pre wired leds.

Take a look at this from DC Kits. Looks to be in stock. https://www.dckits-devideos.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=223_75&product_id=416

I've just got my class 31 out of the box after a couple of years in storage and it is having the same issues. Running light engine or pushing a rake of coaches and all seems ok. get it to pull a rake of coaches and it starts speeding up and slowing down before eventually beginning to stop and start as it goes up the incline and no its not slipping, as without sound you can hear the motor physically stops and starts. Again with mine the sound remains ok if switched on Tried on the esu decoder tester and the speed of the motor speed wanders up and down slightly. Put a slight but constant pressure on the fly wheel and the motor significantly slows and speeds up. Increase the pressure and the motor stops and starts. remove all pressure the motor runs away then slows back down. So this rules out any pickup issues. It seems a component on the decoder for the motor output is failing under load or the overload protection is kicking in and out if there is one. This is without lights Weird as it was ok before it was put away. As a test I Put a Lenz standard + decoder in the class 31 and it runs smoothly so again rules out any pickup issues. As I bought the decoder quite a few years ago not sure if there is any warranty with Hornby. I also changed the speaker by cutting the wires and soldering the wires from the new speaker to the existing ones rather than to the decoder.

Just seen this on Ebay. Makes Hornbys new tooling seem cheap by comparison

The R8215 was the first 8 pin decoder from Hornby and was replaced quite early on by the R8249. If I recall they were not very successful or NMRA compliant. I would look to replace them with something more modern which gives better motor control etc.

latest firmware is now 1.65B

The exact edition on WOR has an issue with the links to the videos. The "click here for layout video" works fine but the other two say "click here for feature video" and just come up with an error when clicked on.

Nailsea and District Model Railway Club Open Day Taking the latest Government guidelines in consideration, it has been decided to cancel the forthcoming open day. All being well, the Nailsea and District Model Railway Club Open Day returns this year When – Saturday 18th December 2021, 10:00am to 3:30pm Where – Tickenham Village Hall, 205 Clevedon Road, Tickenham, North Somerset, BS21 6RX Admission Charges: Adult – £3.00 Child – £1.00 Please note Car Parking is available both in front and behind the village hall It is with regret that there will be No Refreshments available this year. All the layouts and displays that appear at our biennial Open Day are owned and operated by club members. Some of these displays don’t usually leave home and while some are still under construction, the purpose of displaying them is to demonstrate the large range of interests that our members have. It’s also a good opportunity to talk to some of our members and maybe consider joining the club yourself. We hope to see you there and enjoy your visit.

For bi colour try these from express models. https://www.expressmodels.co.uk/catalogue/the-led-store/2mm-red-warmwhite-bi-colour-lighthouse-for-dcc-common-10-units-detail

At least it will give me a little longer to lay some track on my new baseboards, so I've got something to run it on.

F8 on the TTS decoder should be Thrash! What happens when F1 is pressed? Are any other sounds messed up?

Easiest way to be able to access all the functions is to change to function of the Option button from Brake to Extended function control if you haven't already done so.

First of all you need to use Panel Pro rather than Decoder pro in JMRI to define your turnouts and set up your control panel. Once set up, you would then be able to control them via Engine driver. To get the correct help you need to tell us what you are trying to control with regard point motors etc.

Manual for V2 says 5.1 Capacity and protection equipment The decoder is protected against overloading, short circuits and overheating. In case of a fault, the corresponding bit is set in CV30 which will state the type of fault which has occured. This bit can be deleted via programming. CV Value / Bit Meaning Ex-works setting 30 Bit Fault display 0 (dec) 1 (0) 1 Light short-circuit 0 2 (1) 1 Overheating 0 3 (2) 1 Motor-/Track short-circuit 0

Thanks for the link. I'll take a look.

just noticed the additional plate between the baseboard and the seep motor. Look at interesting item. Is it 3d printed?

the wires should be connected as follows track feed - red to pin 8, black to pin 4, the blue wire to pin 7, white to pin 6, yellow to pin 2.

This the interface you need for the Power Cab https://www.ncedcc.com/online-store/USB-Interface-for-Power-Cab-p38322160] Look at Digitrains, Coastal DCC or DCC supplies to name just a few.

Thanks Howard I can now click in the link. Brian

I can see the November issue on exact editions but the usual click here for BRMTV is missing at the moment.

Agreed. Had mine for 8 years and have never regretted buying it. Forgot to mention, The Model shop offer free delivery on orders over £60. (no connection to the company but this could be a bonus!)

Both Digitrains and The model centre are showing as having stock but unfortunately slightly higher price @ £180 and £178 respectively.

So from the picture this looks like a loksound v4. The orange cable should be connected to the vacant solder pad next to the red cable. If the solder pad is damaged and you have a multimeter you can find which pad on the reverse side is connected to the damaged pad and solder the cable to that pad instead. Once you know it is all working again you could always desolder the decoder from the pins and fit a blanking plate. Sell the decoder and recoup some of the cost for the loco. V4 decoders still fetch a good price secondhand.

Brilliant idea! I second that