daltonparva

I think I typed micro 4 pin connectors into eBay some years ago, they came from China for pennies and were the same as Bachmann/Hornby ones though the wiring is slightly thicker. I bought a bunch and I think I have fitted over 30 locos with them.

Me Tarzan

That doesn't exactly sound fair to me. The bloke who owned the team and was spending his money when the credits were earned should be paid for them, he would have suffered the losses so he should make the gains, whether people are for or against him in his current predicament.

I'll give you £50 for the other 2, pay the postage, and buy you a decoder for yours. You can't say fairer than that!

Whilst I appreciate all the theories and explanations put forward, this glass must be some 20 - 30 years old, and hadn't been subjected to cooling, rapid or otherwise. However, since it seems to happen occasionally for whatever reason known or not known then I am content in the knowledge that I have not been singled out by the Powers of Darkness. Thanks to all who replied.

It was just an ordinary glass, it's been around that long I don't remember where or when it came from, and heat cannot be a factor. My kitchen doesn't get direct sun, it wasn't a hot day today, it wasn't washed in hot water, and it had been where it lives for hours. It'll just have to go down as "one of those things".

Can't see it being heat, it had only been rinsed out in cold water last time it was used, and that was about 4 hours before it went bang.

Hello all. This morning, sat at the kitchen table, there was a sudden loud bang followed by a sound like pouring rice into a tin. After opening a few cupboards I found an upturned drinking glass on a shelf had decided to spontaneously explode into a thousand tiny pieces and fall to the lower shelf! Has anyone else experienced anything similar? Do you think it might be ghosties and ghoulies? Should I be whittlin'? I want me Mam!

As your Hex juicer controls 6 frogs do all of them spark, or just the one in the photo?

Going back to previous postings, I think the spark is because of the relatively slow speed of switching when using a relay type juicer instead of the speedier electronic ones.

Now now Mr Y, you know you shouldn't draw attention to those less fortunate than us Einsteiniums.

Besides arguing about whether it should be lined or not, you can all start debating about the name of it. According to the chap who posted the video it's called a Diameter Car.

It would to me if it was done in LMS livery.

Forgot to mention, the electronic juicers are for DCC only, they don't work on DC.

That has a relay in it, and from what I have been told that makes it slower and potentially more likely to cause problems than purely electronic ones.

Tam Valley do frog juicers for 1, 2, or 6 frogs. I've only used the dual ones for turntables, and I've got them from Digitrains.

BBC1, press text, enter 555. They're there.

Terrible news. How much more can one family give to their sport. God (or someone) look after Michael.

Noticing the number of the post I mentioned above, and the number of posts under my name above, just call me "The Mystical Oracle" instead.

I think I mentioned that back in February, post 162. Just call me "The Oracle"

Do you intend this show to revert to its normal dates next year, as last year's coincided with an event at Nene Valley and I managed to do them both on the same day; a very good day out for someone travelling a bit further than usually considered for exhibitions.

Including, by all accounts, the turntable well. Regards, John, from Neil. ,(Daltonparva).

I presume the wiring for the socket comes through the wall as I can't see anything above or below it. Can you get to the wiring on the other side of the wall easily enough? If so just raise or lower the socket 12" depending on whether the wiring comes up or down. That would only involve shortening the cable and would be easy enough to do yourself.

Hello. I'm glad you've sorted it, I was wondering how things were going as it all went quiet for a bit. I also bet you have a sense of satisfaction having sorted it yourself without having to throw a lot of expense at it. Thanks for letting us know the outcome, and feel free to post a picture of it in situ when you've done chucking ballast at it. All the best.

Now you know (I presume) that everything works from the 3 tags on the PCB which is where we started, the next thing is to prove everything is OK from the slip rings onwards, ie that the PCB is OK. Put a bulb or motor into one wire of your 12v supply so you can use it as a circuit tester, so you can work out which of the 5 slip rings corresponds to the yellow black and blue wires. Put one wire to one rail which you can see on your first photo and test each of the slip rings with the other wire to see which corresponds. Repeat with the other rail and then you can ignore those 2 rings. The 3 rings left connect to the 3 colours and we can presume the black and yellow are OK as you can hear the relay clicking. Test which rings are those between the rings and the tags, the remaining ring is the blue, when you know which rings correspond to the colours do what you did originally to make the relay work first then the motor but from the rings not the tags. If everything works you know the deck is all fine, if not there is a fault with the PCB, which the stuck motor might have damaged. PS. Clean the rings up with some meths or track cleaning fluid.