Nile

Not just you.

Any chance of the show guide being available as a single PDF download?

Deja who?

And what do you do when there is no physical button? Ensure that the lens is at the top.

Yes, the LSWR didn't go in for rain strips. The only vents are on the ends.

Both wheels and axles are non-magnetic. 👍

Use their LMS wagon grey, it's the right colour for Midland wagons. This paint darkened with age, so you can add some black to it to age it a bit.

0.7mm square N/S rod can be got from Wizard .

There are large car parks down the other side of the hill to the railway, hidden by trees, which is why you probably haven't seen them before. There is also a free shuttle bus from them, worth waiting for if you don't want to be worn out before you even get inside.

Looking at the instructions I can see that the 'twin beams' are soldered together to form a single central beam that the front axles can rock on. This should work ok with a fixed rear axle.

Even if they are due, it's no guarantee they will arrive in 22. Plenty of other things due before them we are still waiting for.

More work on the body, more specifically the boiler. I found a small gap at the back of the smokebox just above the splasher. I soldered a small piece from the etch on the inside to act as a support, then made up a wedge shaped piece to go in the gap. At the front I had difficulty forming the cylinder cover to the shape I wanted. In my box of scrap bits I found a piece of 0.15mm N/S big enough to use, I had more success with this. Overall progress so far, not much more to do. Not much progress on the chassis. I've made up the brake shoe/hanger units with the help of a little jig. Only the middle joint is soldered at this stage.

On the CADs it looks like a left hand middle wheel is fitted to both sides. This could be an honest mistake in the CAD or and economy measure.

On previous models from Bachmann (N & C) the running plate was grey, as it was on Rails' own D. On Hatton's P it was black, wrong or different because it was a tank loco?

That would be Johnsons Klear floor polish , I think my bottle dates from the 20th century (It's said a bottle will last a lifetime). It may have changed name or formulation over time, I've lost track of it. I suggest you do a bit of searching to find out. There may be some useful info in the painting section of this forum. Other gloss varnishes are available as an alternative.

Some progress with the body, starting with the tanks and cab front. Test fit of the chassis, so far so good. Soldering on that front nut was a mistake as it's meant to go inside the smokebox, which has a bottom plate. So off it came. Bunker now added, and gearbox refitted to chassis. Room for a Mitsumi motor. Shortening the rear shaft will make getting it in and out easier as it projects into the front of the boiler.

Farish , such as these or these . The coach wheels will also do for plain disc wheels.

My complaint is that every time I place an order I have to fill in the billing address, even though they already know my address. Most webstores have a box to tick that makes the billing address the same as delivery address, but that seems not to be the case here.

Yes that's it. I thought it was the width that varied, not their length. Studying the instructions I can see why they vary in length. I'm using the RoadRunner + D1 combination as I have a few in stock.

Next is another kit from Dave, for a Midland 1377 0-6-0T ( see here for Dave's original build ). Starting with the chassis, I decided to make use of the High Level hornblocks I've had for ages to give it some more compensation. I had an issue with the middle spacer, having to move it forward by 2mm in order to make room for the HL gearbox with drive stretcher. I'm wondering if this is because my gearbox is a few years old. I can see from the current instructions online that the design has changed a bit.

Unlikely, last time I went (a few years ago) it was used for the exhibitors lunches. There wouldn't be room for the public as well.

Putting the bits done so far together gives this, an almost complete model: After a good clean it will be ready for painting. Bad news - that won't happen for a while as I need warmer weather. Good news - another kit has arrived to keep me busy until then.

With the body done for now I turned to getting the chassis running, which meant adding pick-ups. Some pieces of PCB sleeper strip have been glued to the underside of two frame spacers. As I've used Romford wheels I've fitted wipers to one side only using 0.35mm Phosphor Bronze wire. Now complete. The rods have been chemically darkened by dipping in Carr's metal black, I wanted to avoid a fully black look.