Stubby47

Hi Simon,

Hope it goes well for you. Do you have a website or info about what you offer ?

Stu

A bit late to this thread, but a big thanks from me too for the simple explanation of how to fit and use the couplings.

Do you find the bars override each other when pushing several wagons at once, if the 1st pushed wagon has been uncoupled ?

What's with the Stubby brushes ? Ought I be worried ???

Nice idea, shows the best side of the forum.

Great little model, but where is the driver's seat ? The GWR board looks to thin to sit on comfortably.

Thanks.

It still needs more work on the weathering and in blending in the vegetation, but it's almost done.

Another option might be to sell it, or give it away... If there is a club near to where you are moving to, someone there might want it, and you'd still have some visiting rights.

(Seems the job is going ok, too)

Stu

Very impressed !! I especially like the roof.

Castle visitor's car park ? (probably a bit too simple)

Castle visitor centre ?

A range of medieval buildings ? (sort of related to but outside the castle)

Small office block ?

Stables / horse riding centre  ?

Looks like a great start ! What are the walls made from ? I like the way some of the bricks are missing from the top.

Stu

I use the snap-off blades too, although I also re-sharpen them using a kitchen knife sharpener.

You've seen this option too, I guess : http://www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=35605

Another idea mentioned to me was to use a square brass tube with a square brass inner  - this means you need only one tube for the lifting plate and it won't turn.

You could replace all of the actuator equipement with a simple U shaped nail placed near one of the two locating pins, passing the cord through the nail then down to the bottom of the pin. Will PM the drawing as I can't add one here.

It's three layers of mount board, covered in Scalescenes Aged Brick paper - the back layer being just a large sheet, covered in brick paper then with the photo of the window added, the middle layer is the main buttresses, and the front layer just long strips placed between the windows. The top piece is one long piece of foamboard, again covered in the Scalescenes paper, just to help keep the three main sections together and provide a uniform top line.

For an example of a brick warehouse backscene, see here : http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/32981-stubbys-latest-boxfile-layout/page-3, especially post #58.

Not knowing how rural your layout is (as rural as Craggy Island ??), would there be a road overbridge within the station footprint ?

For the FY exit, you could use a footbridge /  trees  / large building, depending on the operating height of the layout.

Stu 

Interested in what you're doing here, and what advantages the Pi gives over switches.

Hopefully I can follow without too much confusion !

Stu

That's a robust method of fixing boxfiles together !

Having just trawled Google for some ideas of sizes for flags, I happened across this blog post - perfect !

I shall be using these images for reference for my military loading bay on Treamble.

Thanks !

Stu

<innocent question mode>

Is that the Dapol one ?

<innocent question mode off>

Chris,

I used these on my last box file layout, Laterite & Co. The two magnets were enough to hang a second box when held vertically. To pull them apart was almost impossible if pulled straight, but by 'bending' the two boxes on the join they could be 'levered' apart.

HTH

Stu

As an alternative to the metal dowels and rods to connet your basebaords, have you considered magnetic handbag clasps ?

There act both as the acurate locating device and keep the board together, but are simple use and come apart when required.

(If you are still in Cornwall, you can get these from the haberdashery stall in the Pannier Market, Truro).

Stu

Welcome back !!

That track looks too wide to me...