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millerhillboy

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Everything posted by millerhillboy

  1. Second point first, never bother with brushing. You'll never get the quality of finish you want witha brush.
  2. Good point about the grey underneath yellow. I might not have hit that problem as I dont model the full yellow ended period and have used decals for yellow warning panels when needed.
  3. And the first one in a better light post weathering
  4. Heres a second one.. Considering the age of the model and what we've come to expect from modern releases I think the peak still represents a pretty good model when brushed up. Heres my other peak if you'll forgive me
  5. There was a PDF kicking about somewhere once upon a time, not sure if it was out the NGS magazine or one of the commerical mags but to be honest there nothing much to it in its simplest form although the idea about putting a pin through as mentioned in the link Scottystitch posted is probably a good idea. I'd probably do that myself if were to do another one. In classic blue peter style, here's one a I prepared earlier...
  6. I typicslly have used believe it or not halfords regular grey primer. I dont recall having a problem. However just looking on my workbench there I have a can of tamiya fine surface primer. I'm not quite sure where it came from or why, but i have a lot of faith in Tamiya products based on experience and fine surface sounds better than something for cars, you'd think anyway. Trouble is I cant even recall using the fine surface primer and I what I would hace used it on!!
  7. Its a fair question which I dont know the technical detail off, but my thinking was that black shows through some colours, but not so much primer. I think grey primer would hide the black, at least that'd be my expectation. From that I'd expect yellow to go nicely onto the primer.
  8. I'd have said a coat or two of primer might have served you well in advance. Might still be the case even atop the too thin yellow. Another thing is that its worth making sure aerosols are at room temperature at least, and are well shaken. It might be the yellow hasnt went on fully. I've sèen thst happen before. Id be tempted to apply a cost of primer and try again IF you still think the detail is prominent enough to take more coats.
  9. You really like your unique vehicles, fair play though you do create some wonderfully detailed and researched vehicles.
  10. Have you tried contacting Fox direct, if you give them a call they do tend to be very helpful. I sèe they have a shèet with the digits but not the proceeding 'L'. Fox do a non railway specific range of alphabets that might just work. As I say maybe worth a call.
  11. Graeme Those last two vehicles are superb and fair play to you for cutting out windscreens rather than using glaze glue stuff, I think I'd have just done the glaze but the effect is so much better with the clear material. As you say possibly at the edge of the limit but credit to you for your patience and perseverance, I'd say its been wortwhile.
  12. I would have been on that 150 one of those days, in shock on the return journey having seen the 'future' for the first time, i.e a class 58. Remember being horrified at them compared with what was around at the time, can't believe they've been and gone already.
  13. Looking absolutely superb Atso, those bands are top notch.
  14. Ive got the NGS van and like has been said its a decent kit for a good price but I've still ordered a replacement. Hope the orders pick up for you FWIW I think there so many model projects at different stages that sonetimes its easy to loose track of models coming through from guys like yourself and revolution. My order for the shark I've just checked was december 2015
  15. Looks a cracking layout, Perth layouts rarely disappoint and that looks another gem
  16. The choppers look excellent, particularly like the different fonts for the cabside digits and the bodyside fading. Superb work as always, can almost hear them chundering away from these pictures.
  17. wow, that's looking superb, hopefully spur you on now. once you get some ballasts or rather cinders down that'll looks just superb. never saw 64B in its steam heyday, but passed it millions of time full of 20s,26s,27s etc and its grim to go past these days and see bits of plastic lying !! although perhaps steam guys might say the same about the diesels that followed. I must be getting old !!
  18. I do have a workbench thread, but I do send a lot of my loco weathering to a guy called Alba weathering who is very good IMO, however I tend to do wagons myself and I have done some locos. Here's the WB thread, http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/113691-millerhillboys-n-gauge-workbench/ These are links to stuff I did do from that thread http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/113691-millerhillboys-n-gauge-workbench/&do=findComment&comment=2392806 http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/113691-millerhillboys-n-gauge-workbench/&do=findComment&comment=2605677
  19. Texture is great on that van and the fading effect it gives is also very effective.
  20. Decent results James, and you are on the right lines now IMO anyway, but I would say that!! A lot of this is trial and error as you are finding but you will crack it I'm sure. Not sure about the speckling effect you mention, I think I do see it very very close up but post sealing I tend to weather anyway, with maybe powders or washes so perhaps its not an issue. Definitely try microsol and microset, see if that solves your backing problem. Another tip might be to try as best you can to cut away as much of the backing as you safely can to minimise any effect you see. A magnifying glass and a brand new scalpel blade helps with this task. Finally, I see you masked the engine room windows with tape, I'd suggested getting a hold of some maskol for that kind of task/ https://www.humbrol.com/uk-en/maskol-28ml-bottle.html an excellent product that goes on with a paint brush, and fills things like windows nicely for spraying and then just peels off as easy as you like when the spray coat has tried. Well worth having.
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