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Dapol Class 22

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I succumbed to temptation and bought D6327 in blue with small yellow panels from Hatton's. I fitted a 6-function Zimo MX638D decoder after testing on DC. So far so good. She ran well with the Zimo decoder.

I like the way Dapol have arranged the lights: F0 works the headcode plus marker or tail light directionally at the A end, F1 works the headcode and marker light at the B end, and F3 works the tail light at that end. However, the cab lights refused to work at all. Then I realised the MX638D uses two logic outputs for the 5th and 6th functions. However, a useful trick with the MX634 and MX638 families is that the user can change the logic outputs to full powered outputs with a simple CV change, changing the decoders to MX634C or MX638C. The trick is to program CV8 to 3 for powered outputs (as the 'C' variant), or CV8  = 4 for logic outputs (as the 'D' variants).

Anyway, the cab lights at each end now work on functions 4 and 5, respectively.
 

I 'fixed' the lower body valance panels to the chassis with some black-tack to prevent them from randomly dropping off, although that would be prototypical behaviour!

The next job, before putting D6327 into service properly, is to put some headcodes in. On my previous Dapol class 22 I fitted some Heljan paper headcodes from one of their Western models inside the headcode boxes. I am working on a couple of alternative ideas for this one. I'll report back once I have done something about this.

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Headcodes now fitted to D6327: I used some Precision Labels translucent headcodes, cut to fit outside the headcode glazing, then overlaid them with cut-down and divided Hymek panels from the Precision sheets. I also tweaked CV60 on the Zimo decoder to dim the lights somewhat.

47923186328_984d207cf9_b.jpg
P_20190524_192457_vHDR_On by Jeffrey Lynn, on Flickr

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What size labels did you use ?

 

I understand that there different sizes printed for 00 models.

 

I note you fixed the head codes externally, Is it not possible to fit them internally?
 

Many thanks

 

Terry 

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Hi Terry,

 

I can't remember off-hand what size the labels were. It is possible to fit the headcodes internally, but the thickness of the plastic glazing means you could not use the full-height characters. I did add some thin clear glazing cut to fit the aperture, on top of the newly added characters.

I did fit internal headcodes to my Dapol Western diesel using Heljan figures, but the results weren't entirely satisfactory to me. The class 22 effect is better, I think, but not perfect by any means.


45637591915_33bb49eb83_k.jpg
P_20190101_173500_vHDR_On by Jeffrey Lynn, on Flickr
 

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Yes I see what you mean on the Class 52 with the thick plastic lense.

 

I take it you used Precision Labels which are either 3.5 or 4mm figures 

 

I will have to have think.

 

Terry 

 

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Posted (edited)
On 13/02/2020 at 14:59, ELTEL said:

Yes I see what you mean on the Class 52 with the thick plastic lense.

 

I take it you used Precision Labels which are either 3.5 or 4mm figures 

 

I will have to have think.

 

Terry 

 

 

Internal headcodes with the thinnest possible glazing will always look the biz.... and train crew help too as @Enterprisingwestern once pointed out to us!

CLass 52 1046.JPG

Class 52 1048.JPG

Edited by Phil Bullock
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Posted (edited)

So back on topic ....

 

I mentioned back up the thread that we were looking at creating D6336 and D6342 from the later batch

 

D6336 first - heres progress to date, am happy that the basic furniture is now OK.. Headcode boxes and all existing furniture removed - all detail sanded down. New boxes sited lower are extreme etchings Class 37 filed down to make the frames thinner and mounted on microstrip. New doors fabricated from plasticard. Time to move on to other furniture....

 

 

13C2D3CB-1FB0-4462-BD18-33DEFAF9C8E0.jpeg

Edited by Phil Bullock
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It looks to me that the loco is resting on a sleeper.

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7 hours ago, 96701 said:

It looks to me that the loco is resting on a sleeper.


Psst! Better not tell Phil B that the sleeper is just a tad overscale. We don't want to put him off the excellent modelling job he's doing on the 22. :jester:

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Posted (edited)

No sleeping here!

 

Getting to the point where the first end is finished.... thought I'd show you without paint as you can see better whats been done...

 

Lamp irons have tested my sanity.....!!!!

 

just door and headcode box hinges to add once styrene rod arrives

 

 

4B4D258A-1A7F-4224-896A-021C4181E0F6.jpeg

Edited by Phil Bullock
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Posted (edited)

In case anyone wants to follow heres a blow by blow account....

 

First - before doing anything else - get what you need - including pictures of your chosen loco.

.

Order

 

Class 40 split box etches from Extreme Etchings - EEDP40-18.

 

Class 21/22/29 nose end detail pack .... A1 models on Ebay

 

0.31mm ns wire

 

Silver Tay lamp irons on EBay

 

Brass tube, sheet and plasticard sheet and strip.

 

Whilst you are waiting for those remove existing hand rails and lamp irons. It’s the headcode boxes that are the main work

 

Pilot drill a hole through the moulded circular top vents either side of the doors just below the driver/second man front windows. These together with the head/tail lamp holes will serve to give you location reference points later.

 

Then carefully carve away the head code box surrounds flush with the surface - and all other raised details on the nose end. Leave the outline of the headcode boxes visible. Take a small flat file - handily the most common size is exactly the width of the headcode box aperture - and extend the aperture down 1mm to the lower limits of the existing box you have just removed - the outline will still be visible.

 

Once you are happy with this then clean off all moulded nose end detail and fill existing hand rail and lamp iron holes with squadron putty. Rub down to a smooth surface - the nose doors are recessed, leave them visible as a template for the new doors you are going to make.

 

First job is to sort the headcode boxes. The etches are thin so need to be soldered on to brass sheet....0.5mm is about right. Drill centre of aperture and file out to open up box to internal edge of etching box. The frames are too heavy so file down width from outside too ensuring final results are square and consistent. Sweat on a length of 0.31mm ns wire along the top edge of the box to represent the hinge. Then mount boxes in place on model aligning Internal lower edge of box with internal edge of aperture. Superglue good for this but use gel not thin stuff. Ensure boxes are square and height is right relative to reference points and lateral orientation is correct relative to doors and edge of nose.

 

The original 

 

 

Edited by Phil Bullock
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Time for a photo update... nearly finished bodywork but no time to write up today as off fishing tonight, will follow with bashing guide

4E32BE46-E911-407C-B8AF-9DA4388EC2D4.jpeg

988352D1-4E4E-47E2-947B-21A590C48536.jpeg

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