Sutton's Locomotive Works class 24

[Brian Hawkins]

Perhaps we will find out what the two catalogue numbers will be at the show, as both cat. no 2403 and 2404 are both missing from the catalogue number sequence. If you check the Rail Exclusive web show you can see we have had 2401, 2402, 2405 and 2405A. So one would assume there must be 2403 and 2404 still to come?

2403 - class 24 in blue

2404 - class 25 in blue

Simples :-)

[The Ghost of IKB]

I expect a 25 would have a different model number beginning 25 maybe, but I'd be very happy with a couple of new blue ones to choose from, 24023, 035, 047, 057, 063, 082, 087 and 091 were all in service longest.  

[The Ghost of IKB]

Thought it worthwhile to mention my after sales experience.  MY 24081 suddenly stopped for no reason last week.  Sound worked fine but it just wouldn't move.  Jamie and Phil's respond (after a couple of checks - had I left the brake on?) was to send it back to them. No argument or fuss.  Despite the bank holiday weekend, it was sent back, repaired with new decoder, tested and sent back to me in exactly a week.  Considering  that it was in the post for 4 days (2 each way) and it was a three day weekend that is an excellent turnaround, combined with helpful and very courteous email and telephone calls.  I think it's fabulous service and gives me even more reason to buy from them again.     

Edited May 5, 2016 by The Ghost of IKB

[brushman47544]

Never mind what is on the tin, we havn't had a new release since D5098 and D5107 were advertised a few weeks ago, I knew it would end in disaster, come on Phil. more please :-)

 

I hope like me you mean a different loco, so those of us for whom a Class 24 is of no use can also enjoy an SLW model.

[Brian Hawkins]

I don't care what the next release will be Andrew, have to wait for the announcement at the end of the month, I think a couple more 24's are on the cards to be honest, hope I'm proved wrong as i'd love a 25 (Blue) to go with my ever expanding fleet of SLW models.

[The Ghost of IKB]

It seems likely that a 25 isn't too far away, based on clues like the class24/25 written on the circuit board and the window cut outs in the chassis block, but it would be nice to have them out for christmas.

Personally I hope Mr Sutton has become obsessed with North Wales/North west and we get a 25, a perfect 40, a super detailed 47 and a 103.  All of course in beautiful BR blue.  That would keep me motive powered up til the grave or a lottery win, whichever comes sooner (hopefully the latter!) 

Edited May 20, 2016 by The Ghost of IKB

[Brian Hawkins]

It seems likely that a 25 isn't too far away, based on clues like the class24/25 written on the circuit board and the window cut outs in the chassis block, but it would be nice to have them out for christmas.

Personally I hope Mr Sutton has become obsessed with North Wales/North west and we get a 25, a perfect 40, a super detailed 47 and a 103.  All of course in beautiful BR blue.  That would keep me motive powered up til the grave or a lottery win, whichever comes sooner (hopefully the latter!)

 

I believe Phil Sutton said in the early days of SLW it all depends on how well the models sale, I've done my bit by purchasing all four 24's with sound, as long as Phil keeps chucking em out then I'll buy them, so come on guys dig deep and make a purchase if you can as the class 25's will become that more nearer to being manufactured.

[The Ghost of IKB]

I have 24081 and would buy another blue one straight away if it had a different number. Green ones are of no use to me.  However I'm reluctant to get another 24081 as;

a) I don't want to spoil a £280 model with a crappy attempt at a renumber if I can avoid it and 

b) as soon a I buy another 24081 I can bet that due to sod's law, another numbered blue one will be released.

 

 It would be handy to have some idea of future releases, as if I knew there was no more blue ones coming up I'd buy a 24081 to renumber before they all run out.

[Brian Hawkins]

I'm fairly confident that another class 24 in BR blue will be announced, hopefully we will receive an e-mail from SLW at the end of this month as to the what the next model(s) will be, so fingers crossed for a blue one. 

[srihaggis]

I have to say, whoever is behind this company are superb. Both the model and customer service is second to none.

 

Made a speculative enquiry via email yesterday to ask if they offered next day delivery (for a Saturday) and if not I was prepared to drive over to collect. They came back and offered me a £15 delivery option. Super, I said I would call them mid-afternoon as I was at work, so they took the liberty of preparing the model (adding the DCC sound) and packing it before I had paid for it, so when I rang up late in the afternoon to pay they despatched it immediately.  

 

Fantastic service and the model is something else!!

[TerrySVR]

Incredible models and great company had problem with buffer detail and they resolved issue in a matter of days. They deserve success.

 

Terry

[Martin_R]

E-mail from SLW announcing 2 more class 24s.

 

D5016 BR Green

 

24063 BR Blue 

I got the message too, 24 063 was on my conversion list from a Bachmann version - looks like an expensive phone call in the morning......

[PenrithBeacon]

E-mail from SLW announcing 2 more class 24s.

 

D5016 BR Green

 

24063 BR Blue

Have the issues re the side grills been resolved?

 

Regards

[Brian Hawkins]

Off to the Chatham show on Saturday or Sunday which means I'm going to throw some cash at Mr Sutton, love these superb models, already looking forward to the next release after D5016 and 24 063, keep em coming Phil.

[PjKing1]

This may of been answered elsewhere but has anyone removed the cab interior to add a driver etc? And if so how easy is it? Sorry if this is a stupid question but it's took me 6 months to pluck up the courage to weather it never mind take it apart

 

Cheers

[GRUNFOS]

Done mine it's very simple, leave the model screwed to the display base, slide the body off as per instructions. The cab will out in two pieces, Got no photos I'm afraid. It took a lot more nerve to open up my APT-E though!

[PjKing1]

Done mine it's very simple, leave the model screwed to the display base, slide the body off as per instructions. The cab will out in two pieces, Got no photos I'm afraid. It took a lot more nerve to open up my APT-E though!

That's great thanks mate

 

Cheers

[steveb860]

Have the issues re the side grills been resolved?

 

Regards

 

Try as I might, I just can't see an issue with the grills on my model.

[Swindon 123]

This may of been answered elsewhere but has anyone removed the cab interior to add a driver etc? And if so how easy is it? Sorry if this is a stupid question but it's took me 6 months to pluck up the courage to weather it never mind take it apart

 

Cheers

 

I happen to have taken two apart, so here is a photo of the innards on a SLW class 24 that's on the workbench at the moment.

 

The body can be tricky to take apart, I've taken two apart now, on one of them the body put up a fight because the cab floor/desk part was stuck to the body by some excess paint and could be a tight fit inside the body. I filed down the sides of the floor/cab desk part so it fitted nicely inside the body without catching.

 

My first dismantling of Mr Suttons 24 was done with a bit of trepidation, but had to be done so I could model 5000 in blue. This involved taking a scalpel to it, also with some trepidation) to modify the roof area around the loco exhaust. See photo below.

 

It was then that I encountered my first serious problem. A word of caution to others here. The cab glazing is very easy to damage. The front windows popped out cleanly, but will only do so when the cabside windows are out. These are very fragile and my first ones where glued in a bit to well, and where damaged beyond repair. They are very nice thin mouldings and that is their weakness. They damage very easily. The glazing on the 2nd loco I took apart came out a lot easier and can be reused, so it may well be pot luck with your model as to how easy the glazing comes out.

With the loco with the damaged beyond repair glazing, after looking closely at prototype photos I decided to make my own glazing for the cabside windows. this allowed me to put the cabside droplights in the down position if i desired. The finished loco looked like this before weathering.

 

And after a bit of weathering, like this.

 

A good bit of fun to modify this model because the design being modular makes removing things like the original exhaust and other roof moulding very easy. Things like the roof fan grill easily come out with care, being held in with tags, allowing the fan to be removed for repainting the body. The buffer beams required repainting from red to black, but as they can be unscrewed from the chassis, that was a lot easier as well.

 

Paul J.

 

Additional.

The eagle eyed among you will have noted that I shortened the water tank to represent the later modified ones. Easily done as the water tank unclips from the chassis easily. The battery boxes above the tank where carefully removed making the mod even easier. 

Edited June 7, 2016 by Swindon 123

[PjKing1]

Thanks Paul I've just got the body off, far easier than I thought and the cab interior will be easy to add train crew.

 

Thanks again for the photos, cheers.

[GRUNFOS]

Not a good pic, must try harder.

 

[Swindon 123]

Just one other suggestion when taking off the body on this loco. Don't hold or pull on the fuel and water when trying to take the body off. They are only clipped on and come off easily. I found it best to pull carefully on the center of the bogies one end at a time until the body starts to come free. I also used a strip of thick card, (or thin plasticard) pushed up between the body and chassis above the inner axle on the bogies each end, to keep the body clip clear of the chassis. By pulling down on these strips the body comes free of the chassis quite easily. Be careful not to squeeze the bogies to hard as the detail and cross members are easily distorted. The suggestion by GRUNFOS earlier is most probably the best was to remove the body from the chassis.

 

Paul J.

[PjKing1]

Just one other suggestion when taking off the body on this loco. Don't hold or pull on the fuel and water when trying to take the body off. They are only clipped on and come off easily. I found it best to pull carefully on the center of the bogies one end at a time until the body starts to come free. I also used a strip of thick card, (or thin plasticard) pushed up between the body and chassis above the inner axle on the bogies each end, to keep the body clip clear of the chassis. By pulling down on these strips the body comes free of the chassis quite easily. Be careful not to squeeze the bogies to hard as the detail and cross members are easily distorted. The suggestion by GRUNFOS earlier is most probably the best was to remove the body from the chassis.

 

Paul J.

Thanks Paul I used the securing srews, I screwed them into the chassis and used them to hold the chassis in place, it worked quite well

 

Cheers

['CHARD]

I have to say, whoever is behind this company are superb. 

 

I wonder who they are.  

[tractor_37260]

Try as I might, I just can't see an issue with the grills on my model.

 

Obviously, if there was no issue with the original main rad grille, why then have SLW bothered to make revised (finer) etches ? samples of these test etches were available to view at recent exhibitions.  Presumably these will be available at some point to retro-fit to existing models (if desired) and will likely be used on future versions.