N15class Posted August 23, 2017 Share Posted August 23, 2017 Looks good Ken. I found that the Slater's motor fitted in well too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted August 23, 2017 Share Posted August 23, 2017 Hello Jazz, before you start throwing paint on the loco and tender please have a look at the footplate heights, as the tender footplate looks to be about 6" above the loco's. Most locos and tenders tended to have the footplate at the same hight, plus or minus a 1/2". But not 6". OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miss Prism Posted August 23, 2017 Share Posted August 23, 2017 Most locos and tenders tended to have the footplate at the same hight, plus or minus a 1/2". But not 6". There is ineviably some variation according to the wheel wear on the loco and the loading of the tender, but for straight-framed Bulldogs, I disagree. See, e.g.: http://www.warwickshirerailways.com/gwr/gwrkd121.htm http://www.warwickshirerailways.com/gwr/gwrt354.htm Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
daifly Posted August 23, 2017 Share Posted August 23, 2017 And Pershore Plum herself Dave 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted August 24, 2017 Author Share Posted August 24, 2017 I agree that the tender/footplate heights are considerably different. (I was perplexed at first). After studying many photos in a few actually showed the fall plate climbing up to the tender. So I reckon it's just about right. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted August 24, 2017 Share Posted August 24, 2017 No Health and Safety in those days. Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted August 24, 2017 Share Posted August 24, 2017 The 'shoveling plate', is that the correct term? appears to have been adjusted by Swindon on these 'Standard' tenders to suit the footplate height of the loco. I seem to remember that it was mentioned in the instructions on one of these 4-4-0 kits that I have built and you needed to reduce the 'shoveling plate' supports to get it to the right height. Regards Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted August 24, 2017 Author Share Posted August 24, 2017 Hi Sandy. The shovelling plate is just 2" above the loco floor (just about what many photos show.) It looks worse on my model as the fall plate has slipped down giving an exaggerated 'climb up' look. I am going to modify the hinge design before priming tomorrow. I think it's worth the effort of dropping the shovelling plate 1.9mm. Especially as I'm going to insert thin card between the loco chassis and the body as I feel the whees are a tad too close to the splashers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted August 24, 2017 Share Posted August 24, 2017 Hi Ken, Good plan! I also had to increase the height of my locos but more to give the bogie a little extra clearance for un-even track! See you at Guildex? I'm on the demo stand again! Regards Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted August 24, 2017 Share Posted August 24, 2017 (edited) Just looked at your photo more closely and I now see what you mean. The front of the fall plate should, in reality, sit on the footplate of the loco. Yours appears to be a mill or two below, which is causing the rear of the footplate to be too high. The height of 'shoveling plate' looks to be about right, according to the posted photos, with the loco footplate being about half way between the tender footplate and the top of the 'shoveling plate'. Sandy Edited August 24, 2017 by Sandy Harper Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miss Prism Posted August 24, 2017 Share Posted August 24, 2017 The 'shoveling plate', is that the correct term? appears to have been adjusted by Swindon on these 'Standard' tenders to suit the footplate height of the loco. I'm not sure what the correct term for it is either, but yes, that was normal practice, to ensure the loco fallplate was reasonably level. 'Adjusting' the box structure however was not trivial, which is why, depending on what was in 'the tender pool', locos were often re-united with the tender they came into the works with. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted August 24, 2017 Author Share Posted August 24, 2017 (edited) Hi all. I did have time today to modify the fallplate. I had already raised the cab floor 2mm anyway. So I think all is well with it now. (I hope). Have to say, it all looks very grotty close up before polishing up for priming. Edited August 24, 2017 by jazz 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted August 24, 2017 Author Share Posted August 24, 2017 Sandy, forgot to mention, I will look for at Telford on the Sunday. Ken Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted August 24, 2017 Share Posted August 24, 2017 Sandy, forgot to mention, I will look for at Telford on the Sunday. Ken Look forward to seeing you again Ken Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted August 25, 2017 Author Share Posted August 25, 2017 All now completed and ready for final painting etc. Looks a lot better cleaned up I think. 13 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted August 26, 2017 Share Posted August 26, 2017 Nice rework on the Airfix kit Ken. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted August 26, 2017 Author Share Posted August 26, 2017 Thank's Pete. It was a pleasant change for me. It took me back to the 1960's. The Airfix kits are just the same as back then. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted August 30, 2017 Share Posted August 30, 2017 (edited) There is ineviably some variation according to the wheel wear on the loco and the loading of the tender, but for straight-framed Bulldogs, I disagree. See, e.g.: http://www.warwickshirerailways.com/gwr/gwrkd121.htm http://www.warwickshirerailways.com/gwr/gwrt354.htm The variations due to tire turning would amount to about 3" max. new tires on the loco and old tires on the tender. Or the other way around. And Pershore Plum herself IMG_0523.JPG Dave I'm not sure what the correct term for it is either, but yes, that was normal practice, to ensure the loco fallplate was reasonably level. 'Adjusting' the box structure however was not trivial, which is why, depending on what was in 'the tender pool', locos were often re-united with the tender they came into the works with. shovelling-plate.jpg Names of parts of a loco are quit important as some of them may sound as thought they are the same but are not. The running plate is the "flat" or not so flat part of the loco above the driving wheels, this is also the same name on the outside of a tender (apart from the tender not having any driving wheels in most cases). The shovelling plate is the part of the tender hopper that the coal drops down to and then the coal is shovelled into the firebox. The footplate is the part of the loco that is inside of the cab-side sheets. The engine depending on the overhaul would nominally take longer than the tender so it's (?) tender would go back into traffic before the engine and on a different engine of the same class. Or a class of engine that could take that type of tender. Please note that I'm saying engine and not loco, as a loco is a full system that can work. OzzyO. PS. tank locos are different in all respects to the above. Edited August 30, 2017 by ozzyo Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted August 30, 2017 Author Share Posted August 30, 2017 Quite a topic, I think. Thanks for all the comments and info, all very informative. As regards the model, what's done's done as they say. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted August 31, 2017 Author Share Posted August 31, 2017 A little light relief building this 6 wheel LNWR coach from the Northstar Design Kit. A simple little build too, very satisfying. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted September 22, 2017 Author Share Posted September 22, 2017 (edited) Hi all. At last I was able to get on the WB this week. Tackling the Warren Shephard 45xx kit. I reckon this is not a kit for the beginner at all. With a bit of patience it can be built into a nice representation of the prototype. There is fairly basic instructions backed up with a lot of photos on the supplied CD. This include instructions, photos of the model under instructions and prototype photos including detail photos. All very useful. The hardest parts of the build is the curve around the bunker to mate up with the rear panel. That took a fair bit of time with a small hammer and steel rods. The other tedious part was the punching out of the rivets. There are printed sheets to past on the backs and then punch out the rivets on the dots. Very difficult to get straight rows of rivets. The castings are very nice, all are lost wax. The con rods and coupling rods are from Premier Components. Still got the beachhead to do and the pipework behind the cab steps. I am undecided wether to finish it in BR black of green. I will have the early BR crest which ever colour it will end up in. Edited September 22, 2017 by jazz 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 Warren's kits are excellent, IMO, but quite hard work. Not for beginners, but you're not a beginner... The photos above bear witness to that! Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted September 23, 2017 Author Share Posted September 23, 2017 I can agree with that about Warren's kits Simon. They turn out well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted September 23, 2017 Share Posted September 23, 2017 Hi Ken, I did one on here last year. Mine's in BR lined green but I need to complete the weathering. A Gladiator L1 and Duchess distracted me. There are some shortcomings in the etchings but they are more than compensated for by the excellent brass castings. The only one I changed was the water level gauge in the cab,for one from Hobbyhorse. Cheers, Peter Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz Posted September 23, 2017 Author Share Posted September 23, 2017 Hi Peter. Yes, I have that build on my PC and found it very useful in my build. I am also doing BR lined green livery as my layout is around 1948/1950. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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