Signaller69's projects

[Signaller69]

This is 6123 (RMweb photo from the Dapol thread) which I copied the roof panel colours from:

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/uploads/monthly_01_2018/post-18572-0-11641700-1516387840.jpg

Possibly worth noting this was the first 29 conversion to enter traffic, hence it kept the disc headcodes, but was the roof panel colour arrangement unique to this loco?

 

I will go with blue roof panels on 6107 (and probably 6129), as shown when 6107 was ex-works in June 1967 (presumably this loco was released straight into this livery when rebuilt? The full height yellow warning panels are unusual for a blue Class 29 too):

http://dieselimagegallery.com/detail/470-D8118;D6107;class-200;200;20118;Green;small-yellow-warning-panels;GSY;passenger;Larbert-station;Larbert;D8118-1-S;3165;Jim-Binnie.html

[ISW]

This is 6123 (RMweb photo from the Dapol thread) which I copied the roof panel colours from:

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/uploads/monthly_01_2018/post-18572-0-11641700-1516387840.jpg

Possibly worth noting this was the first 29 conversion to enter traffic, hence it kept the disc headcodes, but was the roof panel colour arrangement unique to this loco?

 

Martyn,

 

I found this photo in "BR Standard Diesels of the 1960s" also showing the 'pioneer' Class 29 in two-tone green but small yellow warning panels.

 

 

Note that the 'catwalks' were in place in this 1963 photo.

 

Do you think they were in the original class 22s and removed as part of the class 29 conversion (maybe after initial conversions)?

 

Ian

[Signaller69]

Martyn,

 

I found this photo in "BR Standard Diesels of the 1960s" also showing the 'pioneer' Class 29 in two-tone green but small yellow warning panels.

 

Pioneer Class 29 in 1963.jpg

 

Note that the 'catwalks' were in place in this 1963 photo.

 

Do you think they were in the original class 22s and removed as part of the class 29 conversion (maybe after initial conversions)?

 

Ian

Thanks Ian, hmmmm, interesting photo! Must have been not long after conversion. I must confess, I'm now not sure if the photo I linked above actually does have the "catwalks", though they are very vague if so, particularly compared to your photo. Could ideally use a high definition photo to be sure; on my phone its impossible to say. I shall hang fire on any further conversion until I find out for 100% certain I think. If they are there I have some copper mesh which can be used to make new "lower profile" (than the Hornby) ones. I have seen another photo which also appears to show them absent though. Strange.

 

Thanks,

Martyn.

[Mad McCann]

Nice to see you've got the Flettners on the roof too. They're not always obvious from all photos but once you notice them, they stick out like a sore thumb.

 

d4.

[Signaller69]

Found another Flickr photo of a class 29 roof showing the same issue - this time D6121, the loco I am doing - no "grille/catwalk" along the centre line, but there does appear to be "panel lines" where it was possibly? Either way, whether panels or grilles, this area is flush to the surface of the roof rather than standing proud (as the Hornby ones do) on the 29s. The plated over original exhaust position can be seen too.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/monochrome_trains/2995628142/

 

A more angled photo would be useful of the roof area tbh.

Edited March 7, 2018 by Signaller69

[Signaller69]

Nice to see you've got the Flettners on the roof too. They're not always obvious from all photos but once you notice them, they stick out like a sore thumb.

 

d4.

Thanks, thats a term I've not come across before! I take it to mean the bits sticking up either end of the exhaust panel? Again good close up photos are hard to find despite being quite prominent as you say; in 3/4 shots from ground level they can be mistaken for exhausts. I assume they are breathers for something in the engine room?

 

Mine are old style Hornby coach buffers with the buffer head removed, fitted into drilled holes; crude but they do the job.

[luckymucklebackit]

Found another Flickr photo of a class 29 roof showing the same issue - this time D6121, the loco I am doing - no "grille/catwalk" along the centre line, but there does appear to be "panel lines" where it was possibly? Either way, whether panels or grilles, this area is flush to the surface of the roof rather than standing proud on the 29s.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/monochrome_trains/2995628142/

 

A more angled photo would be useful of the roof area tbh.

 

LNER non-corridor stock in 1966!!  Though those had been long gone by then, there were BR/LMS non-corridor stock on the Gourock/Weymse Bay and Renfrew services up to 1967 but I thought the LNER stock was scrapped before that

 

Jim

[Signaller69]

LNER non-corridor stock in 1966!! Though those had been long gone by then, there were BR/LMS non-corridor stock on the Gourock/Weymse Bay and Renfrew services up to 1967 but I thought the LNER stock was scrapped before that

 

Jim

All part of the service Jim, cheque to the usual address please!

Yes must have been close to withdrawal by then, very late as you say. Or a train of withdrawn stock going for scrapping maybe? Edit: maybe not if the class 1 headcode is correct.

Edited March 6, 2018 by Signaller69

[luckymucklebackit]

All part of the service Jim, cheque to the usual address please!

Yes must have been close to withdrawal by then, very late as you say. Or a train of withdrawn stock going for scrapping maybe? Edit: maybe not if the class 1 headcode is correct.

 

Caption says a "Rugby Special" so probably ran full to Haymarket (pax to Murrayfield for a 6-3 win over the auld enemy) then this is the ECS heading to Craigentinny, coaches scraped together from the back of some set of carriage sidings for the occasion - fascinating photograph.

 

Jim

[Signaller69]

Another area being attended to is a short rake of BRT grain "Whiskey blues" hoppers to serve Crinan Distillery. These are a mix of Lima and Trix/Lilliput/Bachmann varieties picked up from Swapmeets, all rewheeled with modern wheelsets vice the old "pizza cutters" and fitted with Kadee or Model Power knuckle couplers and weathered. Although they all work well together, the Lima wagons are a better detailed model of the late (1967iirc) batch fitted with pedestal suspension but sit a little taller than the others, which are based on the slightly earlier version (1965iirc) with UIC suspension batches. Although there were several different Whiskey brand hoardings fitted to these vehicles initially, with several different ones seen even in short rakes in the mid 60s, by 1970 a lot had lost them although those still fitted in photos I have seen c.1970 tend to be "Haig", so this is how I am doing mine.

 

I keep hoping for a new model to current standards and have suggested it on the various wagon wishlist forums, but in the meantime these will have to suffice. Perhaps if I do more work on them a new model may be announced as per usual. . .

 

There is scope for removing the unprototypical horizontal ribbing for the removable hoardings on the Trix/Lilliput/ versions (not so easy on the Lima ones as the hoardings are moulded solid), I am mulling this over, as the chassis aren't really up to modern standards either. But never say never. The current work is to renumber them, to remove my pet hate of several wagons with the same number; Paul Bartlett's excellent photos helped with identifying suitable numbers; having no suitable transfers to hand I printed off a sheet of these numbers on the PC (with lots of spares as the background colour has a tendancy to run on exposed cut edges when wet, where the varnish does not protect them, if not handled extremely carefully).

 

More soon! Thanks for looking.

[luckymucklebackit]

Would the reason that the Lima ones sit higher than the Trix/Lilliput ones not be as a result of the oddball 3.8mm/1ft scale used by Trix?

 

Jim

[Signaller69]

Would the reason that the Lima ones sit higher than the Trix/Lilliput ones not be as a result of the oddball 3.8mm/1ft scale used by Trix?

 

Jim

That is quite possible Jim, yes, although istr reading on here that some of the Trix wagon bodies are actually spot on for 4mm. I don't have access to scale plans unfortunately, however the Trix body and wheelbase is about 2mm shorter than the Lima one. They are the same length over buffers due to longer buffers on the Trix though. Interestingly, solebar to roof height is the same on both makes.

 

The issue with height on the Lima version is the axleboxes are mounted too low, or the suspension units are too deep depending how you look at it, this is quite apparent looking at photos; their CCT suffered the same problem. Its not noticable using the original wheels but is moreso when using correctly sized wheels, even though the Trix wagons have been similarly treated. The difference from rail to roof height between the two is about 1.5mm.

 

To be honest if it bothered me too much I would standardise on one make or the other (a future possibility), or avoid mixing them together as a rake (this does sometimes happen). Drastic surgery to the Lima chassis via fitting etched units could be another option but when running the height difference is only noticable if you know its there, and then only from certain angles. The slight length discrepancy is not noticable.

[ISW]

....

 

The current work is to renumber them, to remove my pet hate of several wagons with the same number; Paul Bartlett's excellent photos helped with identifying suitable numbers; having no suitable transfers to hand I printed off a sheet of these numbers on the PC (with lots of spares as the background colour has a tendancy to run on exposed cut edges when wet, where the varnish does not protect them, if not handled extremely carefully).

IMG_20180312_073514_1.jpgIMG_20180312_073535_1.jpg

 

More soon! Thanks for looking.

Martyn,

 

Please can you 'expand' on your method of renumbering by printing off from a PC. This would be extremely useful for me to emulate to do similar coach / wagon renumbering.

 

I remember using Helvetica 6pt rub-on transfers back in the 1980s, so I guess that's the right font / size (for coaches anyway). What about the background colour?

 

And how do you make the print paper 'disappear' and make the whole thing 'water tight'?

 

Much intrigued ...

 

Ian

[Signaller69]

Martyn,

 

Please can you 'expand' on your method of renumbering by printing off from a PC. This would be extremely useful for me to emulate to do similar coach / wagon renumbering.

 

I remember using Helvetica 6pt rub-on transfers back in the 1980s, so I guess that's the right font / size (for coaches anyway). What about the background colour?

 

And how do you make the print paper 'disappear' and make the whole thing 'water tight'?

 

Much intrigued ...

 

Ian

Hi Ian,

Forgive me, I am no computer whizz, it is very much a "trial and error" method if I'm honest.

 

I use my old PC (runs Windows XP) Office program and experiment with fonts and spacing until I get something that looks reasonable. I only have access to limited fonts as my PC is not currently connected to our Wifi, but I expect it is possible to upload "Railway" fonts nowadays; one of the "Gothic" fonts was used for the BRT numbering above.

 

Making sure the Monitor is set to "actual size" I then resize the lettering until happy it will fit where required by holding the model in front of the screen (nb 6pt is the smallest size quoted in my dropdown menu; however if you select the text you want to reduce, then clicking on the size box, delete the "6" and type in a smaller size, it is possible to go smaller eg 3, 3.5 etc, but this can be impossible to read on screen so very small lettering is best left resized last in order to avoid spelling errors - it will print fine even if it looks pixelated on screen.

 

Once happy with the font, spacing and sizing I highlight the whole lot and set the font colour and background colour; again I only have a limited number of colour shades to choose from so its a case of nearest match but again, up to date systems have a pretty much unlimited colour spectrum, although obviously the colour on the monitor may be different to what actually prints! Hence I usually copy and paste everything and add a slightly different or darker background shade set of the same transfers (again, as with the BRT transfers seen above).

 

Then its a matter of printing; a dummy run onto plain paper may be worthwhile but note colours will print different on transfer film. In print settings choose print photo and high quality. I use a fairly basic Canon MP499 Inkjet printer which gives mainly acceptable results.

 

And then print!

 

Once printed onto transfer film leave to dry for several hours before spraying with Acrylic varnish. I find car aerosols work fine but better sealing may be achieved using specialist art/photo sprays. Leave to dry for several more hours. Then cut out and apply.

 

As mentioned I find sometimes the ink disolves away on the cut edge (ie water gets under the varnish along the cut edge). it is only a tiny amount but can leave an unsightly white border. Careful touching up with underlying paint colour will disguise this and blends the transfer into the model (hopefully).

 

Again leave to dry and then give the whole area a coat of varnish to seal everything.

 

I use "Crafty Computer Paper" white transfer film for anything other than plain black lettering (which uses clear film).

 

Hope this helps, apologies for being a bit long winded!

 

Martyn.

[dj_crisp]

Thanks Martyn

 

A very interesting read and I might have a go myself

 

Cheers

Will

[leopardml2341]

Thanks Martyn

A very interesting read and I might have a go myself

Cheers

Will

I would give it a go if I were you, I printed some coats of arms for a bus, with UV fast inks I might add, using similar methods and it works well. The only thing I had to do was cut the finished transfer into quarters to make it easier to apply. I printed some 'register marks' to aid realignment when applied.

[ISW]

Hi Ian,

Forgive me, I am no computer whizz, it is very much a "trial and error" method if I'm honest.

 

I use my old PC (runs Windows XP) Office program and experiment with fonts and spacing until I get something that looks reasonable. I only have access to limited fonts as my PC is not currently connected to our Wifi, but I expect it is possible to upload "Railway" fonts nowadays; one of the "Gothic" fonts was used for the BRT numbering above.

 

Making sure the Monitor is set to "actual size" I then resize the lettering until happy it will fit where required by holding the model in front of the screen (nb 6pt is the smallest size quoted in my dropdown menu; however if you select the text you want to reduce, then clicking on the size box, delete the "6" and type in a smaller size, it is possible to go smaller eg 3, 3.5 etc, but this can be impossible to read on screen so very small lettering is best left resized last in order to avoid spelling errors - it will print fine even if it looks pixelated on screen.

 

Once happy with the font, spacing and sizing I highlight the whole lot and set the font colour and background colour; again I only have a limited number of colour shades to choose from so its a case of nearest match but again, up to date systems have a pretty much unlimited colour spectrum, although obviously the colour on the monitor may be different to what actually prints! Hence I usually copy and paste everything and add a slightly different or darker background shade set of the same transfers (again, as with the BRT transfers seen above).

 

Then its a matter of printing; a dummy run onto plain paper may be worthwhile but note colours will print different on transfer film. In print settings choose print photo and high quality. I use a fairly basic Canon MP499 Inkjet printer which gives mainly acceptable results.

 

And then print!

 

Once printed onto transfer film leave to dry for several hours before spraying with Acrylic varnish. I find car aerosols work fine but better sealing may be achieved using specialist art/photo sprays. Leave to dry for several more hours. Then cut out and apply.

 

As mentioned I find sometimes the ink disolves away on the cut edge (ie water gets under the varnish along the cut edge). it is only a tiny amount but can leave an unsightly white border. Careful touching up with underlying paint colour will disguise this and blends the transfer into the model (hopefully).

 

Again leave to dry and then give the whole area a coat of varnish to seal everything.

 

I use "Crafty Computer Paper" white transfer film for anything other than plain black lettering (which uses clear film).

 

Hope this helps, apologies for being a bit long winded!

 

Martyn.

Martyn,

 

Long winded or not, it's a great explanation. The 'key' bits for me was "Crafty Computer Paper white transfer film" and "Acrylic varnish". I'll have to get me some of those; the rest of the materials / software / equipment I already have to hand (I also have an old Canon inkjet printer / scanner - bought in Taiwan in ~2005).

 

Ian

[Signaller69]

Martyn,

 

Long winded or not, it's a great explanation. The 'key' bits for me was "Crafty Computer Paper white transfer film" and "Acrylic varnish". I'll have to get me some of those; the rest of the materials / software / equipment I already have to hand (I also have an old Canon inkjet printer / scanner - bought in Taiwan in ~2005).

 

Ian

Crafty Computer Decal film is quite widely available such as here: http://www.homecrafts.co.uk/inkjet-water-slide-decal-paper-white-a4-pack-of-10

 

Think it is available through Amazon etc too. The 10 packs work out about 90p per A4 sheet - print what you need then cut off and keep the rest of the sheet before varnishing and even 1 sheet will do a few different projects. Needless to say with modern graphics programs you are indeed limited only by the imagination!

[Signaller69]

Cruel close up showing one of the number decals fitted and touched up around the edges with body colour paint. Varnishing next, then a little weathering to blend in.

[Signaller69]

Some more Distillery traffic has been re-visited in the form of various Fitted open wagons carrying casks, mainly involving weathering. The casks are commercial one piece cast loads (Ten Commandments iirc).

[Signaller69]

Thoughts have returned to doing the 2 extra Class 126 vehicles to make up a 5 car unit as planned (not a common sight, but certainly not unknown). In the interest of variety and as previously mentioned a couple of pages back, I am still thinking of doing a buffet car (SC59098/9) and former E&G DMBS 79088.

 

Regarding the latter, this was noted "listed" at Ayr Depot in 1970 but not officially transferred from Leith until the following year. It was still in green livery until c.1970 (more variety!). It was later painted all over BR Blue, followed by blue/grey from around 1977/78.

 

Assuming the listings are accurate, it has been noted running in otherwise SC 5xxxx formations too (including being the centre car in a 5 car formation of otherwise 5xxxx stock).

 

Info gleaned from the very useful Railcar page:

http://www.railcar.co.uk/data/vehicle/?number=79088

 

Any info on repaint from green to blue date would be appreciated if the info is out there. Also date that the multiple working compatibilty with SC 5xxxx units was carried out at both ends of this vehicle, or was it always so fitted (early sighting in the above list appears to show it at one end of a 5xxxx formation, later in the centre of a train of such vehicles)?

 

Martyn.

Edited April 28, 2018 by Signaller69

[Signaller69]

The buffet car idea has been knocked on the head. A second standard 126 DMS(i) will be produced as this is the simplest vehicle to convert using the Trix Mk.1 RMB. The ex E&G DMBS(i) is still the other candidate, probably in BR blue (partly as I'm still unsure when it lasted in green until, but mainly to avoid having to buy green paint and doing the lining) but this is subject to change, as usual!

 

Before sawing up my remaining Trix coaches I have been looking over the 3 vehicles already built, which have been stored away for the past few months. Having picked up a spare Lima DMU Dummy pick up bogie frame and being less than happy with the earlier effort under the TCK (which connects to the powered DMBS via a 2 pin plug & Socket), I decided to use this instead, fitted with pinpoint bearings, Gibson wheels and left over pickups from an old Tenshodo 'Spud' power bogie. It looks a lot neater and hopefully should perform better too.

 

Just need to find a suitable screw and spacing washer to attach it now.

[MJI]

Just noticed some more Trix vehicles on Ebay

[leopardml2341]

I have 3 possibly 4 if needed - PM me?

[Signaller69]

Just noticed some more Trix vehicles on Ebay

 

 

I have 3 possibly 4 if needed - PM me?

Thanks gents, I have enough Trix coaches to do 3 vehicles if desired so don't need any more to complete the set, your gestures are appreciated! :-)