Show us your Pugbashes, Nellieboshes, Desmondifications, Jintysteins

[John Besley]

6 hours ago, cypherman said:

Hi all,

I was playing with this little engine today and thought this has probably been lost in the great photo famine of 2021 I thought I would repost it here. It is a Hornby Pug chassis with a scratch built footplate, superstructure and cab. The boiler is from a Lima Crab, New bigger buffers, steam valves and whistle from my spares box. The conrods and piston block are from a Triang Hall. Lots of fun making it during lockdown.

Any chance of retaking the photos in some better light and a fit closer in please... Can't see what your showing us

[cypherman]

8 hours ago, John Besley said:

Any chance of retaking the photos in some better light and a fit closer in please... Can't see what your showing us

Hi John,

I will as soon as I can. A bit busy at the moment as i am starting a new job on Monday.

[TT-Pete]

Don't think you'd be allowed to "bash" this one:

 

 

Edited August 3, 2022 by TT-Pete

[CameronL]

On 03/08/2022 at 13:34, TT-Pete said:

Don't think you'd be allowed to "bash" this one:

 

 

Have they still got the box it came in?

[rockershovel]

I claim no credit for this, found it on the HRCA Facebook page.... cut down N2 with 4MT cylinders and motion 

 

[RedGemAlchemist]

18 hours ago, rockershovel said:

I claim no credit for this, found it on the HRCA Facebook page.... cut down N2 with 4MT cylinders and motion 

 

It's a Y4!

[Gilwell Park]

This is a Y4.  Rivarossi American switcher chassis.

[SteveyDee68]

16 hours ago, Gilwell Park said:

This is a Y4.  Rivarossi American switcher chassis.

Oh I do like that! Personally I’d want proper (oversized) buffers rather than dumb buffers, but the above just oozes a sense of power!

 

I remember an article in (possibly) the Airfix sponsored railway modelling magazine (can’t remember it’s title) back in the 1980s, which used the N gauge version of this chassis* to build a OO9 loco. At the time, I was wanting to do something narrow gauge but could I find that loco/chassis anywhere??!

 

Steve S

 

* It may have been Atlas or another manufacturer rather than Rivarossi, but it was an American 0-4-0 chassis with outside cylinders etc exactly like the one above!

[Steamport Southport]

On 03/08/2022 at 13:34, TT-Pete said:

Don't think you'd be allowed to "bash" this one:

 

 

 

I did "bash" that one. I was on the train!

 

 

 

Jason

[RedGemAlchemist]

On 16/08/2022 at 17:27, Gilwell Park said:

This is a Y4.  Rivarossi American switcher chassis.

Correction: The other one is a small shunter slightly similar to a Y4, and I am dumb.

[ianmacc]

I thought this veteran may be of interest to this thread.  It’s made from a chopped up triang chassis and a body with added balsa wood (!) to represent a pannier tank of some sort? 
 

It is very much of its time but has a real artisan charm to it and is from the era when you made dp with what was around you. 

Edited August 23, 2022 by ianmacc
Thpo

[ianmacc]

Looks okay from normal viewing angles…

Just worked out it’s the 0-4-2T that was later made by Airfix RTR i think. 

Edited August 23, 2022 by ianmacc
Clarity

[41516]

10 hours ago, ianmacc said:

Just worked out it’s the 0-4-2T that was later made by Airfix RTR i think. 

 

But one that's being going to the gym and bulked out!  A 14XXXL!

Edited August 24, 2022 by 41516

[ianmacc]

5 minutes ago, 41516 said:

 

But one that's being going to the gym and bulked out!  A 14XXXL!

I’m trying to work out what’s gone into it RTR to make it. Not an expert on old triang 

[Barclay]

9 minutes ago, ianmacc said:

I’m trying to work out what’s gone into it RTR to make it. Not an expert on old triang 

I reckon the cab and bunker must be from their pannier tank, so possibly the whole running plate too with bigger splashers added. The chassis could have been from that loco, which would have had flangeless centre drivers, so presumably the rear drivers were moved to the middle axle, coupling rods shortened etc? Not sure about the origins of the boiler.

[41516]

20 minutes ago, Barclay said:

Not sure about the origins of the boiler.

 

Triang 3F?

[DCB]

11 hours ago, ianmacc said:

I thought this veteran may be of interest to this thread.  It’s made from a chopped up triang chassis and a body with added balsa wood (!) to represent a pannier tank of some sort? 
 

It is very much of its time but has a real artisan charm to it and is from the era when you made dp with what was around you. 

Looks like a Triang 3F 0-6-0 Tender loco with a 8751 cab grafted on.  But ... How did they make the chassis work?      Only the centre flangeless driving wheel had a screw thread, the outers had holes in which pins fixed to the rods revolved.  the flanged tyres won't fit the flangeless wheels without mods, or a lot of force.   How was it made to work or do the rods keep falling off?

 

Please tell!

[Steamport Southport]

1 hour ago, ianmacc said:

I’m trying to work out what’s gone into it RTR to make it. Not an expert on old triang 

 

Not quite as old as you would expect. The GWR 8750 came out in 1972 which was only four years before the Airfix 14XX!

 

http://www.hornbyguide.com/class_details.asp?classid=9

 

 

 

Jason

[33C]

1 hour ago, DCB said:

Looks like a Triang 3F 0-6-0 Tender loco with a 8751 cab grafted on.  But ... How did they make the chassis work?      Only the centre flangeless driving wheel had a screw thread, the outers had holes in which pins fixed to the rods revolved.  the flanged tyres won't fit the flangeless wheels without mods, or a lot of force.   How was it made to work or do the rods keep falling off?

 

Please tell!

Two ways. Tap the hole 8BA as I suspect has happened here or drill slightly larger hole to accept the, punched out, centre crank pin brass from the unflanged middle set. Both are easy to do. You may need to file off the shoulders of the brass bush and add a bit of superglue but no biggy. 

[DK123GWR]

It's occurred to me that as pugbashing can be a useful introduction to modelling, it might be helpful to cover some simple techniques that can be used to improve or alter the chassis. I'm thinking mainly of modifications which use fairly cheap parts and are fairly easy to do with a minimum of tools (perhaps a file, tweezers, sharp knife, and small screwdrivers) - the sorts of things people can use in order to try their hand without making a large financial commitment.

 

To begin with, wheel swaps. The Horby 0-4-0's wheelbase is quite long for such a small loco. Fortunately, this means that the wheels can be changed for those of a larger diameter in order to use the chassis as the basis for something completely different. It is often necessary to cut or file off the brake shoes first. The simplest approach from here would involve finding wheels which fit onto the original axles - does anyone know of a locomotive which can donate wheels for a direct swap like this?

The second option is to find a locomotive with the same axle diameter as the originals and move the whole wheel/axle/gear assembly into the old chassis. For example, the chassis on the 4-4-0 uses '70s Hornby Flying Scotsman parts (the gap in the floor had to be filed to accomodate the larger gear. The advantage of this is of course greater flexibility, the downside that it will often require a new motor (or at least motor mount) , which the beginner may struggle to produce reliably (this one runs, but very badly).

 

I have also seen on this thread cylinders which have been modified by removing the portion attatched to the body and wrapping the rest in thin Plasticard to bulk them out, which did a very good job of obscuring the loco's origins. Unfortunately, I can't find the post right now.

 

Another change which is often effective is the addition of a proper crosshead and slidebar (or even outside valve gear) in place of the questionable arrangements Hornby use on the outside cylinder locos. I've not tried this yet (mostly because my bashes so far have all been inside cylinder locos), but perhaps if anyone has done it in a way which requires minimal modifications (and therefore tools) they could share it on this thread for the benefit of others?

[Tullygrainey]

I've probably posted these photos on this thread before but since a lot of images got lost in the recent crash, here they are again.

I've had a few goes at crossheads on Hornby 0-4-0 chassis. The first attempt used brass rod, tube, scrap brass etch, a valve gear rivet and a bit of soldering. The cylinders are cut from the barrel of a disposable propelling pencil, the sort you buy in supermarkets in packs of 10. These are simply glued to the original chassis. Not very prototypical but it works!

 

Alan

 

 

 

 

[Tullygrainey]

The next attempt used Hornby spares pack X8834W, Class 28xx 2-8-0 Loco Valve Gear Set. It's a bit large for a small 0-4-0 so there may be better choices. I can't claim credit for this one. I gleaned it from someone else's post on this thread BC (before the crash)

 

Alan

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Steamport Southport]

6 hours ago, DK123GWR said:

It's occurred to me that as pugbashing can be a useful introduction to modelling, it might be helpful to cover some simple techniques that can be used to improve or alter the chassis. I'm thinking mainly of modifications which use fairly cheap parts and are fairly easy to do with a minimum of tools (perhaps a file, tweezers, sharp knife, and small screwdrivers) - the sorts of things people can use in order to try their hand without making a large financial commitment.

 

To begin with, wheel swaps. The Horby 0-4-0's wheelbase is quite long for such a small loco. Fortunately, this means that the wheels can be changed for those of a larger diameter in order to use the chassis as the basis for something completely different. It is often necessary to cut or file off the brake shoes first. The simplest approach from here would involve finding wheels which fit onto the original axles - does anyone know of a locomotive which can donate wheels for a direct swap like this?

The second option is to find a locomotive with the same axle diameter as the originals and move the whole wheel/axle/gear assembly into the old chassis. For example, the chassis on the 4-4-0 uses '70s Hornby Flying Scotsman parts (the gap in the floor had to be filed to accomodate the larger gear. The advantage of this is of course greater flexibility, the downside that it will often require a new motor (or at least motor mount) , which the beginner may struggle to produce reliably (this one runs, but very badly).

 

I have also seen on this thread cylinders which have been modified by removing the portion attatched to the body and wrapping the rest in thin Plasticard to bulk them out, which did a very good job of obscuring the loco's origins. Unfortunately, I can't find the post right now.

 

Another change which is often effective is the addition of a proper crosshead and slidebar (or even outside valve gear) in place of the questionable arrangements Hornby use on the outside cylinder locos. I've not tried this yet (mostly because my bashes so far have all been inside cylinder locos), but perhaps if anyone has done it in a way which requires minimal modifications (and therefore tools) they could share it on this thread for the benefit of others?

 

The wheelbase is correct for the "Holden" Tank though.

 

I'm sure we'll all seen this. The model is fairly accurate, just that the motion is very much simplified.

 

 

Originally built as a small tank for a very lightly loaded branch line and would have worked with a trailer car like those used with the Railmotors.

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GWR_101_Class

 

 

 

Jason

[DK123GWR]

1 hour ago, Steamport Southport said:

 

The wheelbase is correct for the "Holden" Tank though.

 

I'm sure we'll all seen this. The model is fairly accurate, just that the motion is very much simplified.

 

 

Originally built as a small tank for a very lightly loaded branch line and would have worked with a trailer car like those used with the Railmotors.

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GWR_101_Class

 

 

 

Jason

I know that it's correct for that prototype and it wasn't a criticism, but an observation that as a result the chassis could be repurposed for larger four-coupled locos (they're right, or at least close enough, for a City too) or for earlier locos (still small but with larger driving wheels). Hence, knowing what wheels, if any, can be easily swapped in would allow even a beginner to use the chassis as the basis for very different models.

[cypherman]

Hi all,

Adding better motion to the Hornby 0-4-0 chassis is really quite easy. This one has had a Triang hall cylinder block and rods added. Just a bit of filing to get the cylinder block to fit.