RMweb Gold 81C Posted July 3, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 3, 2018 Just got back from shopping for some more 1/8" cork and the response so far has surprised me. I expected something along the lines of "Oh no, the poor fella's lost his marbles". Maybe you have. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrkirtley800 Posted July 3, 2018 Share Posted July 3, 2018 Whatever turns you on Larry Derek Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LBRJ Posted July 3, 2018 Share Posted July 3, 2018 Just got back from shopping for some more 1/8" cork and the response so far has surprised me. I expected something along the lines of "Oh no, the poor fella's lost his marbles". I am sure you have the talents to make code 100 look good - and it is proven to work well. But it would be wrong to say its a step in the best direction for most people, and the way to go. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachmann Posted July 4, 2018 Author Share Posted July 4, 2018 (edited) The track was sprayed outside with Railmatch Sleeper grime, brought back into the shed while wet and carefully re-formed as closely as possible to its finished profile so that when the paint has dried, the track will retains its shape. Seeing as I lay and ballast in one go, the next move was to split it up into convenient sections for gluing down with neat PVA. The unconnected yard tracks are merely there to position the set of points. Section 1 covers the platform tracks.... Section 2 includes the points... Section 3 covers the plain track leading outdoors.... The 1/8" cork base has already been shamferred with an electric sander. The new formation is further from the edge of the embankment this time. Note the trackbed is cambered.... Edited July 4, 2018 by coachmann 13 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted July 4, 2018 Share Posted July 4, 2018 (edited) Warning: Personal Opinions coming! It is a pity 'someone' doesnt make 'proper' Bulhead looking track in Code 100, with 'proper' sleeper spacing, rather than HO track..... There are many people whose situation demands something more robust, and forgiving, than code 75, especially fragile (it seems) Bullhead Code 75. Older rolling stock which runs fine on code 100, but does not like Code 75..... (So, I am pretty settled on keeping Code 100 track myself....) There is a lot to say for Tri-ang Railways 'Super 4' track. It is very robust, and the sleepers are more 'OO' than 'HO'! OK, the rail section is more suited to 7mm scale (Super 4 would make great 0-16.5 Narrow Gauge track...)..... BUT I think that a code 100 section rail in Super 4-like sleepers could be good! Edited July 4, 2018 by Sarahagain 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachmann Posted July 4, 2018 Author Share Posted July 4, 2018 Section 1 is now laid, ballasted and dried out after being under weights for an hour. Sleeper spacing does not stand out as much as it would against grey ballast; another reason for sticking with dark brown ballast (fine)... 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidH Posted July 4, 2018 Share Posted July 4, 2018 Phew, It's difficult keeping up with all the changes. I thought it was looking really nice from the last postings, and now you're ripping it all up again!You might have been able to afford that Aston Martin by now if you'd not started on Carrog! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandhole Posted July 4, 2018 Share Posted July 4, 2018 Phew, It's difficult keeping up with all the changes. I thought it was looking really nice from the last postings, and now you're ripping it all up again! You might have been able to afford that Aston Martin by now if you'd not started on Carrog! Which Aston though? An old one with the Aston engine or a new one with the Merc engine? I'll get my coat, again!!!! C. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post coachmann Posted July 4, 2018 Author Popular Post Share Posted July 4, 2018 Job done....All the track is back but it needs wiring yet.... Track remains in Sleeper Grime colour. I normally paint the rails rust colour, but experiments are needed this time as I do not want to exaggerate the rail.... There is a smoother run into Carrog now that it is on a shallower curve. The straight points were barely bent.... 21 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted July 4, 2018 Share Posted July 4, 2018 Job done....All the track is back but it needs wiring yet.... WEB Carrog 100 11.jpg Track remains in Sleeper Grime colour. I normally paint the rails rust colour, but experiments are needed this time as I do not want to exaggerate the rail.... WEB Carrog 100 9.jpg There is a smoother run into Carrog now that it is on a shallower curve. The straight points were barely bent.... WEB Carrog 100 10.jpg Larry, for Rail sides I use a mix of Matt Black and Matt Brown, mixed on the Rail so as not one solid colour, the darkness helps to reduce the look of the height a bit, IMHO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachmann Posted July 4, 2018 Author Share Posted July 4, 2018 I am sure you have the talents to make code 100 look good - and it is proven to work well. But it would be wrong to say its a step in the best direction for most people, and the way to go. I could not agree more. The average modeller is most probably aiming higher especially now Peco bullhead is on the market. One of the well known advantages of Code 100 is its suitability for outdoor model model railways. This is why I am using it while applying the techniques and colouring I adopted for finescale track. Rails have been painted with matt enamel paint matched to Phoenix/Precision 'Rusty Rails' shade. 'Dirty Black' applied around switch blades and fishplates etc... 14 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Focalplane Posted July 4, 2018 Share Posted July 4, 2018 Larry I think it is fair to say that you have pinpointed the obvious difference between a cosy indoor layout and one that incorporates an indoor scenic section and two outdoor running sections that happen to be in a climatically changeable environment. I had been prepared to do much the same in southern France where the temperature ranges are more extreme and had opted for 7mm scale track for that (among other) reasons. Fortunately I found a more stable setting for Penmaenpool than I had dreamed possible, but if I had gone your route I would have been at pains to simplify track laying as you have done. Your plans to mask the track's visual shortcomings seem well thought out. Trains that run well are so much better than trains that struggle to be prototypical. Ideally we want both but that is not always possible. I look forward to tomorrow's box opening! Paul 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted July 4, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 4, 2018 Warning: Personal Opinions coming! It is a pity 'someone' doesnt make 'proper' Bulhead looking track in Code 100, with 'proper' sleeper spacing, rather than HO track..... There are many people whose situation demands something more robust, and forgiving, than code 75, especially fragile (it seems) Bullhead Code 75. Older rolling stock which runs fine on code 100, but does not like Code 75..... (So, I am pretty settled on keeping Code 100 track myself....) There is a lot to say for Tri-ang Railways 'Super 4' track. It is very robust, and the sleepers are more 'OO' than 'HO'! OK, the rail section is more suited to 7mm scale (Super 4 would make great 0-16.5 Narrow Gauge track...)..... BUT I think that a code 100 section rail in Super 4-like sleepers could be good! Don't stop there Sarah - try Standard track. It's even ready-ballasted... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodenhead Posted July 4, 2018 Share Posted July 4, 2018 Coach, even when you've settled on a track plan you like to rip it up and relay it like for like. Have you tried Lego as an antidote? It is much more suited to a cycle of build/destroy/build Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachmann Posted July 4, 2018 Author Share Posted July 4, 2018 (edited) Coach, even when you've settled on a track plan you like to rip it up and relay it like for like. Have you tried Lego as an antidote? It is much more suited to a cycle of build/destroy/build You learn a lot more from being constructive than playing with Lego thanks. Edited July 4, 2018 by coachmann Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodenhead Posted July 4, 2018 Share Posted July 4, 2018 It was only a light hearted comment, i find it interesting you've ripped up the Bullhead track, if you're finding it difficult to work with then I will stick with Code 100 myself. I was toying with the idea of going over to Bullhead but this and the thread about Code 100 have convinced me than unless I skip over to another gauge (which is unlikely) I should stick with the robustness of code 100. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LBRJ Posted July 4, 2018 Share Posted July 4, 2018 Job done....All the track is back but it needs wiring yet.... WEB Carrog 100 11.jpg Track remains in Sleeper Grime colour. I normally paint the rails rust colour, but experiments are needed this time as I do not want to exaggerate the rail.... WEB Carrog 100 9.jpg There is a smoother run into Carrog now that it is on a shallower curve. The straight points were barely bent.... WEB Carrog 100 10.jpg That is a marvellous vista of the whole scene! Like I said earlier in the thread, you have the ability to take the ordinary everyday and move it up a notch or several 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachmann Posted July 5, 2018 Author Share Posted July 5, 2018 (edited) It was only a light hearted comment, i find it interesting you've ripped up the Bullhead track, if you're finding it difficult to work with then I will stick with Code 100 myself. I was toying with the idea of going over to Bullhead but this and the thread about Code 100 have convinced me than unless I skip over to another gauge (which is unlikely) I should stick with the robustness of code 100. I cannot put any blame on bullhead track. The problem is the garden shed environment. Not only does it suffer a temperature range from below zero to over 100 degrees Fahrenheit, but one end of the shed has sunk slightly over the years causing an incline in the baseboard. I would not hesitate to use bullhead in the house, but I am where I am and I have asked a lot of it since 2008. Good running means far more to me than anything else. Code 100 is a well-proven outdoors track system, so it is high time I used it. Besides, Code 100 has a pleasing appearance all of its own and I can see why it is still popular. For those aiming for fine-scale 00, bullhead is the natural answer these days. Edited July 5, 2018 by coachmann 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium TrevorP1 Posted July 5, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 5, 2018 Your comments on the Peco bullhead are appreciated Larry. Within, hopefully, the next couple of months I will be ordering a garden building for my 'retirement project' and any doubts I had over whether it should be properly insulated - at some cost - are now dispelled. In any case I hope to be able to use it all the year round so modern insulation seems definitely the way to go. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted July 5, 2018 Share Posted July 5, 2018 Your comments on the Peco bullhead are appreciated Larry. Within, hopefully, the next couple of months I will be ordering a garden building for my 'retirement project' and any doubts I had over whether it should be properly insulated - at some cost - are now dispelled. In any case I hope to be able to use it all the year round so modern insulation seems definitely the way to go. My Shed has Cellotex on the walls and 18 inches of Loft insulation in the roof void, (I fitted a flat celling), and good floor insulation of Ply, 2inch polystyrene, another layer of Ply and the Halfords rubber matting. Apart from todays extreme temperatures, I can go out any time, even when it's Snowing, half an hour with the heater on, and it's warm as toast inside, normally in the summer it just needs a fan, but at the moment, even that's not enough to allow me inside. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodenhead Posted July 5, 2018 Share Posted July 5, 2018 My Shed has Cellotex on the walls and 18 inches of Loft insulation in the roof void, (I fitted a flat celling), and good floor insulation of Ply, 2inch polystyrene, another layer of Ply and the Halfords rubber matting. Apart from todays extreme temperatures, I can go out any time, even when it's Snowing, half an hour with the heater on, and it's warm as toast inside, normally in the summer it just needs a fan, but at the moment, even that's not enough to allow me inside. Off topic but I will do Mr Mortimore's job and add the warning - in this heat you need to look after yourself. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted July 5, 2018 Share Posted July 5, 2018 Off topic but I will do Mr Mortimore's job and add the warning - in this heat you need to look after yourself. Armchair modelling / R M Web and a big fan blowing for the last week, depressing, but I get out of breath if I go out in the heat now. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Stationmaster Posted July 5, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 5, 2018 (edited) I cannot put any blame on bullhead track. The problem is the garden shed environment. Not only does it suffer a temperature range from below zero to over 100 degrees Fahrenheit, but one end of the shed has sunk slightly over the years causing an incline in the baseboard. I would not hesitate to use bullhead in the house, but I am where I am and I have asked a lot of it since 2008. Good running means far more to me than anything else. Code 100 is a well-proven outdoors track system, so it is high time I used it. Besides, Code 100 has a pleasing appearance all of its own and I can see why it is still popular. For those aiming for fine-scale 00, bullhead is the natural answer these days. Fortunately my garden building has 1 metre deep concrete foundations which are 3 feet below (nothing like mixing the measurements) the reinforced concrete raft on which the floor insulation sits that is below the finishing concrete screed and the waterproof chipboard floor covering (the building is officially a detached garage). Proper insulation is clearly important but good foundations can also be critical on some ground. Edited July 5, 2018 by The Stationmaster 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Focalplane Posted July 5, 2018 Share Posted July 5, 2018 When I was considering buying a house in France I did my research, as one should, and was given plenty of advice. The most important was "don't buy a new property, despite all the rules and regulations about building standards and insulation". Generally I would say this is good advice. Many new projects are built using hollow terracotta "bricks" which are supposed to have insulation fed into their cavities. In my apartment (now sold) I couldn't find much insulation when drilling through the terracotta to fit Molly bolts. The apartment faced the evening sun which could really bake the place. The current house was actually a 2006 rebuild of an old single story barn, sandwiched between two existing three story town houses. The owner stipulated concrete blocks for the external walls of the house. What a difference! The attic space is small and so heavily insulated that when it was 37º outside the other day the space felt cool when I went to store some stuff there. I found that quite surprising. I would have had a garden railway with shed, like Larry's, if I resorted to buying land and building a house. Then the town house came on the market and it was a no brainer. When was visiting Canada frequently during the latter years of my career I noted that most houses had large basements and that these stayed reasonably warm in winter and cool in summer. Most model railway layouts were built in the basements. Paul 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachmann Posted July 5, 2018 Author Share Posted July 5, 2018 (edited) The shed was handbuilt by 'the lads up the road' and the planking and framework is thicker than the usual sheds one sees nowadays. They also built my spray-shop to a sketch that i provided. The foundation is now't more than 3' X 2' slabs laid on sand. It does the job and i don't go in from November until late February, indeed why would I when a model railway is not my 'life', but is a pleasant retreat. The problem I suppose is I am a builder and so, as enjoyable as operation can be, I have to be 'doing' all the time. Carrog has had a good run considering my mind is often on other railway locations that I would like to construct in model form, but for the moment and probably next year as well, it is safe. I cannot get the GWR out of my system yet, but if I ever do, I have in mind something LMS in the Pennines in the early 1930's built on a steep incline. Lots of fully panelled coaches, coal wagons and ex.LNWR locos. Edited July 5, 2018 by coachmann 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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