Mark 5, By Accurascale

[spamcan61]

57 minutes ago, 47007stratford said:

Just trying out my TPE set and the Driving trailer is making an annoying buzz when on my track, using on dcc. The other thing is what ever direction I put the DT on the track only the white light are activated, so no red tail lights can be displayed. I can’t see anything in the notes with the sets. Will the lights only work correctly dcc with decoder fitted when running on dcc

This came up a few pages back and somebody fixed it by turning Railcom off.

[spamcan61]

Had a chance to play with my set this morning between hoovering upstairs and downstairs lol; very impressive all round as others have noted, the only disappointment for me is the lighting, which is very uneven between seating bays. Presumably the same board as the sleepers. A little irritating on a very high quality product (and very keenly priced) but not a deal breaker.

Edited January 29, 2023 by spamcan61

[47007stratford]

Railcom refers to z21 so not applicable as using NCE power cab and I only have it on the DT in the TPE set and have no issue on the no 5 sleepers. more of an issue is only showing white lights in either direction. If it needs a decoder to operate on a dcc layout that is fine, but does it?
 

[curlypaws]

Turning off Railcom on my ESU ECoS controller didn't stop the buzz either. It does seem like the only solution is to fit a DCC decoder. And I also see the white lights regardless of direction without a decoder fitted.

 

It would have been nice if decoder fitting didn't need removal of the body, given the warning about doing this too often. I'd like to be able to just fit a standard LokPilot chip to run the DT, but I expect I'll want to add the @charliepetty and @legomanbiffo sound chip once it is available. So I may just have to run without the DT for a bit 🙁.

[ERIC ALLTORQUE]

15 minutes ago, curlypaws said:

sound chip

The sound needs to be in the 68.....the only thing you need the chip for is to control the lights i guess. Would probably be better factory fitted on another run if it can run DC/DCC for what it would cost.

[47007stratford]

19 minutes ago, curlypaws said:

Turning off Railcom on my ESU ECoS controller didn't stop the buzz either. It does seem like the only solution is to fit a DCC decoder. And I also see the white lights regardless of direction without a decoder fitted.

 

It would have been nice if decoder fitting didn't need removal of the body, given the warning about doing this too often. I'd like to be able to just fit a standard LokPilot chip to run the DT, but I expect I'll want to add the @charliepetty and @legomanbiffo sound chip once it is available. So I may just have to run without the DT for a bit 🙁.

Thanks for that. Like you said it would have been nice to make this clear and be able to fit a decoder without  removing the body. Decoder ordered, just hoping with my fat fingers nothing breaks of when fitting the decoder

[Phil Mc]

The bodies are certainly no more difficult to remove than lots of other models.

Just more of a case of being careful when putting the body down, the steps hang lower than the body.

 

Cheers,

Phil.

 

[TomScrut]

2 hours ago, ERIC ALLTORQUE said:

The sound needs to be in the 68.....the only thing you need the chip for is to control the lights i guess. Would probably be better factory fitted on another run if it can run DC/DCC for what it would cost.

 

As mentioned a bit ago, sound would be for horns, AWS, anything else that might be desirable such as cab doors and sanders.

[charliepetty]

2 hours ago, ERIC ALLTORQUE said:

The sound needs to be in the 68.....the only thing you need the chip for is to control the lights i guess. Would probably be better factory fitted on another run if it can run DC/DCC for what it would cost.

In Leeds station the otherday I wandered up to the Mk5 DT, and sadly it actually made noises, you had the obvious, Door bleepers and closing noises, Guard to Driver and his reply buzzer, The Train Air brake release and on leaving a two tone horn.  Of course the 68 sound really good but the actual train does make noises.

[KeefieBoy]

Have received my accurascale mk5s in TPE livery. I also have the buzzing noise from the driving trailer cab lights. Was going to email Accurascale for a potential fix but assume I might get an answer on here?

[Accurascale Fran]

Hi everyone,

 

If using the DT on DCC without fitting a decoder there will be a buzzing sound (like any other model on DCC which is still fitted with a blanking plug)

 

A four function decoder is required to control the functions and we are working on a bespoke one which we will have news about in due course.

 

Cheers!

 

Fran

[Roy Langridge]

4 hours ago, TomScrut said:

 

As mentioned a bit ago, sound would be for horns, AWS, anything else that might be desirable such as cab doors and sanders.

Sanders on a DT? Are you sure?

 

Roy

[newbryford]

9 minutes ago, Roy Langridge said:

Sanders on a DT? Are you sure?

 

Roy

 

Looks like a sandpipe ( and sandbox above it) on the leading axle of the trailing bogie.

 

Edited January 29, 2023 by newbryford

[Roy Langridge]

5 minutes ago, newbryford said:

 

Looks like a sandpipe ( and sandbox above it) on the leading axle of the trailing bogie.

 

So it does. I assume for wheel slip protection under braking?

 

Roy

Edited January 29, 2023 by Roy Langridge
Typo

[Mark Saunders]

3 minutes ago, newbryford said:

 

Looks like a sandpipe on the leading axle of the trailing bogie.

 

Once upon a time sand was only used to get started but in more recent years it is used to aid stopping and come in a one shot form on Voyagers.

[TomScrut]

5 minutes ago, newbryford said:

Looks like a sandpipe ( and sandbox above it) on the leading axle of the trailing bogie

 

13 minutes ago, Roy Langridge said:

Sanders on a DT? Are you sure?

 

First I knew of them was when I saw them on the model the other day!

 

[Sweetling Park]

7 hours ago, curlypaws said:

It would have been nice if decoder fitting didn't need removal of the body, given the warning about doing this too often.

 

5 hours ago, Phil Mc said:

The bodies are certainly no more difficult to remove than lots of other models.

Just more of a case of being careful when putting the body down, the steps hang lower than the body.

 

I agree that avoiding the need to remove the bodyshell would have been nice.  The only place I can think the socket could have been hidden is in one of underframe boxes.  However, I appreciate most models require bodyshell removal in order to access the socket.

 

I am intending to add a DCC decoder to the DT when one becomes available (ideally with sound).  I haven't removed a bodyshell before and don't want to cause problems for myself, especially on a brand new model.  I know that I need to learn as I have other models that require such a task, so if anyone could offer me some advice/tips, please, then I would be most grateful.

[TomScrut]

1 hour ago, Accurascale Fran said:

and we are working on a bespoke one

 

Just a suggestion here...

 

This is how I have set mine up.

 

When F0 is active and direction is forward, then the markers, headlights and the destinations are all lit up.

 

Then F5 disables the headlights for "yard mode" or whatever reason you'd only want the markers on, and F1 disables the destination board.

 

I did this as I'd like it to be headlights and destination on by default, rather than the exception.

 

I did also set it so the cab light won't be on in the forward direction when moving but that's only a minor thing I like to do.

 

 

Does anyone know if these run with dimmer headlights during the day? I presume so, and if so I might set day and night mode up like I have on my 68.

[TomScrut]

7 hours ago, curlypaws said:

It would have been nice if decoder fitting didn't need removal of the body, given the warning about doing this too often.

3 minutes ago, Sweetling Park said:

I agree that avoiding the need to remove the bodyshell would have been nice.

 

In fairness, given how easy the body is to remove I don't see the problem.

 

It's a 20 second job taking the body off (tops), not a 2 minute job like on a Bachmann 66, or a 10 minute job and potentially destroying handrails like on a Hattons 66.

[curlypaws]

17 minutes ago, Sweetling Park said:

...if anyone could offer me some advice/tips, please, then I would be most grateful.

@Sweetling Park The only advice I can offer is to get some plastic shims. Clear plastic packaging is good - you can cut it up to give you a number of pieces. You can then use it to help disengage the clips by inserting it between the body and chassis where the clips are and leave it there to stop the clips re-engaging as you work on the next set. Some people use toothpicks or plastic spatulas, but I prefer something fairly thin which doesn't distort the body. Business cards (or similar thin card) are another possibility.

 

Just take your time as you ease the body off and watch out for any delicate parts which may get caught.

[spamcan61]

5 minutes ago, curlypaws said:

@Sweetling Park The only advice I can offer is to get some plastic shims. Clear plastic packaging is good - you can cut it up to give you a number of pieces. You can then use it to help disengage the clips by inserting it between the body and chassis where the clips are and leave it there to stop the clips re-engaging as you work on the next set. Some people use toothpicks or plastic spatulas, but I prefer something fairly thin which doesn't distort the body. Business cards (or similar thin card) are another possibility.

 

Just take your time as you ease the body off and watch out for any delicate parts which may get caught.

Personally I blew a couple of quid via eBay on a selection box of guitar picks of various thicknesses for this task.

[Sweetling Park]

30 minutes ago, curlypaws said:

@Sweetling Park The only advice I can offer is to get some plastic shims. Clear plastic packaging is good - you can cut it up to give you a number of pieces. You can then use it to help disengage the clips by inserting it between the body and chassis where the clips are and leave it there to stop the clips re-engaging as you work on the next set. Some people use toothpicks or plastic spatulas, but I prefer something fairly thin which doesn't distort the body. Business cards (or similar thin card) are another possibility.

 

Just take your time as you ease the body off and watch out for any delicate parts which may get caught.

Thank you @curlypaws for the helpful advice, it is really appreciated.

 

 

23 minutes ago, spamcan61 said:

Personally I blew a couple of quid via eBay on a selection box of guitar picks of various thicknesses for this task.

Thank you @spamcan61 for the suggestion.

[Bucoops]

54 minutes ago, spamcan61 said:

Personally I blew a couple of quid via eBay on a selection box of guitar picks of various thicknesses for this task.

 

I tend to use bankcards - they can be cut to shape - and also when chopped up save you money cos they don't work :D

[Ouroborus]

I found taking the body off was ok.  Putting it back was harder.   Had a bit of a struggle with the nose end.  Take your time.  There are a few bits that are easy to knock off

 

I started to remove the body at the nose end, but did have to do a double take to see where the chassis ends and the body begins.  Tip - its underneath, not at the side.  I took one fine shim either side and worked it away from the nose end.  Careful.  There are a number of parts its easy to get the wrong side of.  As i got the shims towards the middle, a couple more shims went back in at the nose.  It came apart ok.

 

While it was off, i fitted a driver.  The seat is narrow, so test fit for fatties first.  I also fitted the destination boards.  Check the destination is correct and you have it the right way up.  A little smear of static grass adhesive held it in.  Again, with the side destination boards check you have the correct destination and the correct coach letter

 

The dcc blanking plug was stiff.  I bent a pin on removing it, but seem to restraighten reasonably well and then the dcc chip did the rest 

 

I have to say, the coach lighting is the best I've seen.  You may find it dim, but turn your room lights off and they've nailed it.  You realise that most other coach lighting is way too bright.  The tables are lit absolutely beautifully 

 

Edited January 29, 2023 by Ouroborus

[Standards_in_OO]

I was tempted by the TPE versions as I like that livery but didn’t pre order as they are a bit too recent for the eras I model. However, after seeing a few videos on YouTube they look amazing! I hope another run will be produced in the future. I might even buy a Dapol 68 whilst they are still available just in case!