Jump to content
 

Hunslet 16" 0-6-0 Saddle Tank - 00 Gauge


rapidoandy
 Share

Recommended Posts

2 hours ago, AMJ said:

48150 are 18" and were followed by the 50550 and developed into the Austerity. 

48150 have a tank that is not the full length leaving the smokebox showing.  See the gallery and database on Leeds Engine (link below).

Indeed they do, it was more a reference to what could’ve come before that but as I can’t recall it being the case that there were any of the 16” type based at Eastmoors it would make very little sense in that regard. Though I am still searching for more regarding the stock of Eastmoors as the livery is quite interesting to say the least.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

I’ve just added sound to the first of mine. 
 

Rapido suggest a plastic tool for unclipping the tank sides. I made my own by using the dremel to sand down the end of some plasticard. Good tip guys 👍

 

53E136C8-F927-49BD-B900-C2600A65BC21.jpeg.62a28853fa71cc127ff455abdd1cfb02.jpeg
 

1F748014-D510-480F-96C0-A13FC3C20B62.jpeg.c54c59d1573cdb3ca4abb3b9f4072a5d.jpeg

Now initially flummoxed as I found I couldn’t fit the stay alive in the tank. I tried the bunker but that’s full of speaker and it was going to look daft in the cab. 
 

BAD82A45-60E2-4D00-A1E2-50A084D3ECDD.jpeg.1a05616847bf2e5c8f335be4ff94b4b5.jpeg

 

Then I noticed the circuit board wasn’t as flat as in the booklet photos! So I eased off the two screws and it then sat down nicely on the two locating pins it was sat on top of 😉 Now the Lais 870007 supplied with the decoder is a snug fit in the gap. 
 

41419977-834A-4E15-B192-903C3EBA14DF.jpeg.ec0a8628e627690c64696fcc0c46fad4.jpeg

 

Then the brave bit, really clean iron and just a touch of solder on each pad and tin the wires. 
Hold on the wire and another touch, the decoder was then inserted and tested on the program track, no shorts 👍

 

Then I insulated the wires where the heat had shrunk them with a touch of epoxy glue so no stray wires could move. 
 

Reassembled it and tested. Now it sound as good as it looks 😃

  • Like 9
  • Informative/Useful 1
  • Craftsmanship/clever 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

My blue NCB Hunslet arrived a couple of days ago and I am happy to say I am very pleased with it, both for its appearance and for its running qualities. After a quick test on DC on my programming track, it seemed smooth but my old analogue controller cannot reduce its lowest voltage sufficiently to try out the really slow running. It was sufficiently good for me to install a Hatton's Next 18 decoder (the only one of this configuration I have spare), and tested again. Slow running was good but it needed a slight tweak to the starting voltage - CV2 = 6 - and it would creep almost imperceptibly on speed step 1.

Testing on my main lines proved the slow and smooth running was really good, the electrical pickups were all working, and that it worked fine through my pointwork. The firebox glow works on F1 with this decoder. Another quick tweak using Decoder Pro on the programming track set the firebox LED to flicker.

All of this meant that I could do my usual adjustments to the appearance to fit it in with my fictitious industrial fleet. I removed the "NCB" lettering, and applied some etched name and number plates I have from Narrow Planet. I chose one of the longer names so the new plates completely covered the existing printed "Holly Bank No.3" plates, negating any need to remove them. She is now No.72 "Beverley". I have left the printed works plates on the bunker. Maybe with my next order from Narrow Planet I'll order some etched ones to go over them.

These are a couple of before and after photos.

It will benefit from having a crew installed soon, and a little weathering.

 

20230220_182757.jpg

 

20230221_133829.jpg

Edited by SRman
  • Like 11
Link to post
Share on other sites

The DCC sound fitted Holly Bank No3 arrived at Hill Top today, it really is a painfully pretty little thing! And on the rollers the sound project has come out very nicely. I like the way that you can gently open up the throttle to keep the chuff down, while throwing open the throttle thrashes the nuts off it with a distinctly different bark. Away with the saddle tank piping as Holly Bank No3 doesn't have it as at Chasewater now, nor the original locomotive; nice and easily done as it has been made removable for access to the DCC gubbins which is great. I'll have to source some vac and steam heat pipes and cobble up that roof vent to complete the 'as she is now' appearance. I haven't really noticed much of a tightness in the chassis. Mine negotiates down through a vicious curve I have into an industrial siding on my roundy-roundy layout which dips close to 1st radius, though running forwards she doesn't like diverging on right handed curved turnouts but is fine through them bunker first at all speeds; I guess that dictates the direction of travel!

 

A couple of things I have noted.

 

A stay alive is going to be pretty much essential, I ran mine in on rollers and the longer I ran in for the more erratic the pickup has become. I turned the inertia off and can crank directly to 50% and literally can't get out of the room before she's stopped on the rollers now. On the roundy-roundy with a train in tow the cutouts are balanced by the wagons clattering into her to keep things moving, but the break in pickup is enough to cut the sound. With inertia turned on, forget it! Its a dead stop due to reverting to a crawl to pick up speed. I haven't taken the keeper plate off yet, but right now I'm assuming this is down to the grease getting into the bearings, which will need a clean out. Fitting a stay alive should be the belt and braces it needs, but in the mean time a thorough degrease and tiny dab of lubrication on the gears only is next on the agenda. Its fixable, but frustrating fresh out of the box.

 

The real heart sinking moment came after 15 minutes running-in on the rollers when she stopped dead in her tracks and completely unresponsive to a gentle nudge and wiggle to get things going again. Initially suspecting the pickups as by then every few seconds at half power she was stuttering or maybe the decoder. I waved a multimeter over the PCB to make sure I had continuity and no high resistance from controller feed to PCB, which tested fine and was about to drop in a blanking plug to prove all worked on DC when I noticed something else. Thankfully it tracked down to a simple fix, the wires for the firebox LED are just resin coated strands and had shorted to the metal chassis block in the small passage where it passes over between the PCB void and the space alongside the motor. I've put a small square of insulating tape between the chassis and the firebox LED wires at this point and all is back up and running, but this may be something to check if anyone else experiences a sudden stop and subsequent unresponsiveness.

 

Are there solder pads on the PCB to support a stay alive, or is it going to be a solder to the decoder job? I'm assuming its a standard next18 V5.

  • Informative/Useful 2
  • Friendly/supportive 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
18 hours ago, Zunnan said:

The DCC sound fitted Holly Bank No3 arrived at Hill Top today, it really is a painfully pretty little thing! And on the rollers the sound project has come out very nicely. I like the way that you can gently open up the throttle to keep the chuff down, while throwing open the throttle thrashes the nuts off it with a distinctly different bark. Away with the saddle tank piping as Holly Bank No3 doesn't have it as at Chasewater now, nor the original locomotive; nice and easily done as it has been made removable for access to the DCC gubbins which is great. I'll have to source some vac and steam heat pipes and cobble up that roof vent to complete the 'as she is now' appearance. I haven't really noticed much of a tightness in the chassis. Mine negotiates down through a vicious curve I have into an industrial siding on my roundy-roundy layout which dips close to 1st radius, though running forwards she doesn't like diverging on right handed curved turnouts but is fine through them bunker first at all speeds; I guess that dictates the direction of travel!

 

A couple of things I have noted.

 

A stay alive is going to be pretty much essential, I ran mine in on rollers and the longer I ran in for the more erratic the pickup has become. I turned the inertia off and can crank directly to 50% and literally can't get out of the room before she's stopped on the rollers now. On the roundy-roundy with a train in tow the cutouts are balanced by the wagons clattering into her to keep things moving, but the break in pickup is enough to cut the sound. With inertia turned on, forget it! Its a dead stop due to reverting to a crawl to pick up speed. I haven't taken the keeper plate off yet, but right now I'm assuming this is down to the grease getting into the bearings, which will need a clean out. Fitting a stay alive should be the belt and braces it needs, but in the mean time a thorough degrease and tiny dab of lubrication on the gears only is next on the agenda. Its fixable, but frustrating fresh out of the box.

 

The real heart sinking moment came after 15 minutes running-in on the rollers when she stopped dead in her tracks and completely unresponsive to a gentle nudge and wiggle to get things going again. Initially suspecting the pickups as by then every few seconds at half power she was stuttering or maybe the decoder. I waved a multimeter over the PCB to make sure I had continuity and no high resistance from controller feed to PCB, which tested fine and was about to drop in a blanking plug to prove all worked on DC when I noticed something else. Thankfully it tracked down to a simple fix, the wires for the firebox LED are just resin coated strands and had shorted to the metal chassis block in the small passage where it passes over between the PCB void and the space alongside the motor. I've put a small square of insulating tape between the chassis and the firebox LED wires at this point and all is back up and running, but this may be something to check if anyone else experiences a sudden stop and subsequent unresponsiveness.

 

Are there solder pads on the PCB to support a stay alive, or is it going to be a solder to the decoder job? I'm assuming its a standard next18 V5.

Hi Zunnan

 

Before you fit a stay-alive, if the loco is getting worse with running-in then it may be a fault and it could be best to drop us a line via our warranty form:

https://rapidotrains.co.uk/warranty-form/

 

Where people have been having bother it has tended to be because they have not been run-in, but as yours has gone the other way this may be the best course of action.

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, RapidoCorbs said:

Hi Zunnan

 

Before you fit a stay-alive, if the loco is getting worse with running-in then it may be a fault and it could be best to drop us a line via our warranty form:

https://rapidotrains.co.uk/warranty-form/

 

Where people have been having bother it has tended to be because they have not been run-in, but as yours has gone the other way this may be the best course of action.

 

Cheers Corbs, I'll keep that in mind. The symptoms are near identical to a lot of N Gauge repairs I get on the more modern 0-6-0s which use bearing pickups and have lubricant where it shouldn't be. I have a batch of repairs to do for the club shop this weekend so while those are being cleaned down I'll pop the keeper plate off and see if cleaning out the factory grease does the trick. I'm 99% sure this is what I have going on as on testing between the pickup tab on the PBC and the power feed to the rollers when its cut out its going high resistance until nudged enough to tweak the pickups in the bearings. My gut is telling me its just a bit much grease in the mechanism which has found its way into the pickups.

 

Fitting a stay alive is more a personal preference thing than problem solving my pickup issue here. I like to have them on smaller locos, it works a treat on my next18 converted V5 fitted Model Rail Sentinel which I can lift from one fiddle yard to another without it cutting out! 😂

  • Like 1
  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Zunnan said:

it works a treat on my next18 converted V5 fitted Model Rail Sentinel which I can lift from one fiddle yard to another without it cutting out! 😂

I imagine that looks like when you lift a dog out of the water.

  • Funny 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
On 21/02/2023 at 19:18, Zunnan said:

Are there solder pads on the PCB to support a stay alive, or is it going to be a solder to the decoder job? I'm assuming its a standard next18 V5.

I found the main reason for stuttering was paint on the outside of the wheel tread, mine ran far better after a clean on the brass brush cleaner. With the stay alive it will run on for about 6-8 seconds 👍
You need to attach the stay alive direct to the decoder, I’ve covered it if you scroll up the page, a Lais 870007 fits in snugly next to the decoder too. 

 

 

 

Edited by PaulRhB
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...