Phil Himsworth Posted January 26 Share Posted January 26 Mine is an absolutely superb slow runner. It starts slowly and smoothly; even on DC it really oozes the feeling that it's working really hard to get a train moving, I love it. (It doesn't like going downhill much for some reason mind, I guess it's got a worm drive maybe?, but I can live with that) 2 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold NHY 581 Posted January 27 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 27 15 hours ago, RapidoCorbs said: We are aware of spring failures in the pickups - sorry haven't had the time to be on here much recently/respond to stuff. It doesn't seem to affect all models - our test mules did hundreds of laps without pickup failure. Certainly, given the number we have sold, Brian's is the only one to date. Rob 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butler Henderson Posted January 27 Share Posted January 27 18 hours ago, RapidoCorbs said: We are aware of spring failures in the pickups - sorry haven't had the time to be on here much recently/respond to stuff. It doesn't seem to affect all models - our test mules did hundreds of laps without pickup failure. The reported issue seems to be on dcc - mine hasn't been run much since decoder fitting it. It was run in on dc. Were the "test mules" laps on dc only? If some users have no problems on dcc then maybe details of what dcc systems are in use where failures have occurred should be sought. Some dcc systems can put out higher than normal voltages. That can be capped by using a different power supply or using a string of bi-directional diodes in one leg of the track connection so is it a case of handling upto x volts is okay but beyond that is where failures occur? Or are the dcc systems in question capable of puttiung out a current beyond that the springs can cope with in the event of a momentailly short before the dcc system trips? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Barry Ten Posted January 27 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 27 Mine has completed about fours hours of continuous test running on the Dynamis DCC system with no issues as yet. I wouldn't normally put a loco through anything like as much testing before deciding it's OK, but in this case I want to be certain before I start messing about with weathering etc. One thing I did want to do is add a Spratt & Winkle bar at each end, as the loco's not much use to me unless it can shunt trains like my other tank engines. However, not only did I not want to do anything irreversible to the model, but my normal method of drilling into the buffer beam wouldn't work as it's die-cast and has a lot of material to go through. Instead I mounted two copperclad pads just aft of the buffer beams underneath the model, where there are suitable ledges. I then soldered the S&W bars onto these pads. One painted black, the pads are not obtrusive and the glued bond between pads and model will cope with normal operations. The bars were 0.45 mm brass which is then chemically blackened. I've used this dodge on the Bachmann prairies which also have cast buffer beams that are difficult to drill through. 1 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold MikeParkin65 Posted January 27 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 27 7 hours ago, Butler Henderson said: The reported issue seems to be on dcc - mine hasn't been run much since decoder fitting it. It was run in on dc. Were the "test mules" laps on dc only? If some users have no problems on dcc then maybe details of what dcc systems are in use where failures have occurred should be sought. Some dcc systems can put out higher than normal voltages. That can be capped by using a different power supply or using a string of bi-directional diodes in one leg of the track connection so is it a case of handling upto x volts is okay but beyond that is where failures occur? Or are the dcc systems in question capable of puttiung out a current beyond that the springs can cope with in the event of a momentailly short before the dcc system trips? Interesting suggestion regarding higher currents. I haven’t had a problem with my 15xx although with the loop still under construction it has only been used for relatively short end to end runs so far. It has though spent hours with the sound on without issue. . Many of us are upgrading our power supplies to cope with the greater demands of sound fitted and stay alive in locos such as the Accurascale Manor with recommendations to have at least 14v at the rails - my NCE up with the 5 amp booster is putting an indicated 17.5 to the rails according to a multi meter. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Trofimow Posted January 27 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 27 9 hours ago, Butler Henderson said: Some dcc systems can put out higher than normal voltages. That can be capped by using a different power supply or using a string of bi-directional diodes in one leg of the track connection so is it a case of handling upto x volts is okay but beyond that is where failures occur? Or are the dcc systems in question capable of puttiung out a current beyond that the springs can cope with in the event of a momentailly short before the dcc system trips? At the time I was having repeated failures of the pickups, my Lenz DCC system was only delivering 12.4V at the rail, and the layout instrumentation was not showing any greater than normal current draw, so I don't think DCC vs DC is an issue. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium PMP Posted January 27 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 27 23 hours ago, Phil Himsworth said: (It doesn't like going downhill much for some reason mind, I guess it's got a worm drive maybe?, but I can live with that) Worm drive isn’t an automatic problem issue as far as going downhill is concerned. The float of the worm back and forward can cause problems, and it’s not unique to these models, DJM and some Bachmann models have these issues on occasion too. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BRIAN T Posted January 27 Share Posted January 27 14 hours ago, NHY 581 said: Certainly, given the number we have sold, Brian's is the only one to date. Rob Be clear Rob , you are referring to L&B s sales not Rapido , and I did not buy mine from L&B ,I’m glad our shop has had no issues , I bought direct from Rapido.Never the less the issue is there , I will duck out now , Rapido have contacted me and are sorting things out . 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold NHY 581 Posted January 28 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 28 7 hours ago, BRIAN T said: Be clear Rob , you are referring to L&B s sales not Rapido , and I did not buy mine from L&B ,I’m glad our shop has had no issues , I bought direct from Rapido.Never the less the issue is there , I will duck out now , Rapido have contacted me and are sorting things out . Ah !.......I thought your's came from us....sorry Brian.......in which case, we've had none then. Rob 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
didcot Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 Does anyone know how the return cranks are located? I can see mine moving which in turn causes a tight spot. A gentle push back to the right position and it runs perfectly. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Barry Ten Posted January 30 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 30 2 hours ago, didcot said: Does anyone know how the return cranks are located? I can see mine moving which in turn causes a tight spot. A gentle push back to the right position and it runs perfectly. There's a mild tight spot on mine which isn't severe enough to have disturbed me, but I'll see if I can see anything going on with the return crank. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
didcot Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 I had a look at the exploded diagram and I think the return crank just pops into the wheel with what looks a bit like a split arrow head. The arrow head as it were stops it popping out. When the return crank moves out of position I think it's pulling on the eccentric rod and jamming the expansion link. Once its nudged back it runs ok until it moves again. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold MikeParkin65 Posted January 31 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 31 17 hours ago, didcot said: I had a look at the exploded diagram and I think the return crank just pops into the wheel with what looks a bit like a split arrow head. The arrow head as it were stops it popping out. When the return crank moves out of position I think it's pulling on the eccentric rod and jamming the expansion link. Once its nudged back it runs ok until it moves again. There is a lot of play both in the vertical and horizontal planes of the centre axle, is the gear jamming in a particular location on the layout, perhaps a tight curve or a point frog? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
didcot Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 If only, it's on the rolling road at the moment. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Stationmaster Posted January 31 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 31 23 hours ago, Barry Ten said: There's a mild tight spot on mine which isn't severe enough to have disturbed me, but I'll see if I can see anything going on with the return crank. Mine had a tight spot when testedt at the shop where i bought it - it loosened with a bit of running-in . 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Sidelines Posted February 1 Share Posted February 1 18 hours ago, didcot said: If only, it's on the rolling road at the moment. Just a thought, Bachmann cranks had a key so that they fitted at the correct angle. I think you have said the Rapido crank plugs in. Is it possible that it an be plugged in say at 180 degrees out of phase? Cheers Ray Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
didcot Posted February 1 Share Posted February 1 Hi Ray, I don't think so, but when it moves I can gently rotate it back to where it should be. I will investigate more at the weekend. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim104 Posted February 22 Share Posted February 22 Can someone on here please explain to me with images if possible on how to go about replacing the spring plunger pickups on this model? They appear behind the driving wheels in the chassis, how do you get to them and are they soldered with a wire attached? t hanks in advance…. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevemmm Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 Rapido should help here, I have asked them for this info since October but no luck. In desperation over Christmas I put my brain surgeon hat on and unclipped the brake rigging and put to one side. Then removed the keeper plate and carefully dropped the wheels slightly out so no rods got bent. This allows access to the plungers which are plastic tubes 2.4mm diameter and 5.5mm long, they contain a tiny spring 1.5mm diameter which fails. The spring acts on two nipples out of each end, like the things the ladies buy at Adult shops. These plunger assemblies are a push fit and have a tiny flange which you can very carefully lever each side with a blade of a thin craft knife to gently pull out. A difficult task. There must be a better way. I have done full drawings of all the component parts, Need those head mounted magnifying glasses with good lighting and an immaculate work area ready to catch things that go flying, like Rod Stewart does with an apron that connects to the bench, but don't walk away in a hurry. 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cctransuk Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 1 hour ago, stevemmm said: The spring acts on two nipples out of each end, like the things the ladies buy at Adult shops. I must have led a sheltered life - do tell! 😱 CJI. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim104 Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 Thanks stevemmm, do the plunger assemblies have wires soldered to them or do they conduct voltage by interference fit? If they do, is it a split chassis? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Chris116 Posted February 23 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 23 6 hours ago, cctransuk said: I must have led a sheltered life - do tell! 😱 CJI. If you need to ask, you are better off not knowing. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Gilbert Posted February 23 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 23 8 hours ago, stevemmm said: The spring acts on two nipples out of each end, like the things the ladies buy at Adult shops. I don't think they are "ladies"...... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevemmm Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 There seems to be a double sided contact plate down the centre of the loco chassis where the inbound nipples of the plunger assembly contacts with, no soldering needed. It is important that both nipples are free to spring in and out with gay abandons to ensure correct operations, These nipples are only 0.9mm in diameter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cctransuk Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 2 hours ago, Chris116 said: If you need to ask, you are better off not knowing. Spoil-sport - I'm perfectly willing to be led astray! 😲 (Don't let on to the wife)! 🤫🙅♀️ CJI 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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