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Hornby 2021 - Ruston & Hornsby 88DS


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7 minutes ago, meatloaf said:

Id be interested to hear how other peoples 88DS run over pointwork.

 

Sams stopped on every point on his layout.

 

Sadly this puts me off buying

Given the wheelbase i'd be pleasantly surprised if it it made it across 'dead frog' points reliably.

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Yeah, that seemed to be a direct consequence of the wheelbase being shorter than the frogs, which he's clearly running as dead or unswitched. On live frog points it should be no worse than any other short wheelbase loco whereby only dirty track or wheels will be its Achilles heel.

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7 minutes ago, BluenGreyAnorak said:

Yeah, that seemed to be a direct consequence of the wheelbase being shorter than the frogs, which he's clearly running as dead or unswitched. On live frog points it should be no worse than any other short wheelbase loco whereby only dirty track or wheels will be its Achilles heel.

Interesting they didn't include a 'runner' wagon to improve pick-up, as they did with the 48DS. Presumably there was a fair amount of feedback that it wasn't required - probably from folks with live frog pointwork ..

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29 minutes ago, meatloaf said:

Id be interested to hear how other peoples 88DS run over pointwork.

 

Sams stopped on every point on his layout.

 

Sadly this puts me off buying

 

I wouldn't trust someone who runs the track on carpet, without even cork underlay, with dead frog points & has quite an obvious hidden vendetta to give you an accurate review. 

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15 minutes ago, spamcan61 said:

Interesting they didn't include a 'runner' wagon to improve pick-up, as they did with the 48DS. Presumably there was a fair amount of feedback that it wasn't required - probably from folks with live frog pointwork ..

 

The wheelbase of the 48DS is even shorter and I suspect is susceptible to the same problem even on regular dead frog points (as opposed to unswitched live frog ones) and so the runner was probably justified to work on Hornby set track.

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I have no problem with my 48DS running alone, but I do have handmade track with GaugeMaster AutoFrog devices.
Another option (if using DCC) is to fit a "keep alive" to the loco, a friend of mine has one thus fitted and it will run for about 9" when power is removed from the track.

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4 hours ago, ColinK said:

With all my points being live frog, I expect mine to run OK, but fitting a stay alive would help - hopefully somebody will show us how.

It will depend on what decoder and what SA you use. So far, it's looking like the cab is the only option for a SA. There's very little space under the engine casing.

 

 

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18 hours ago, Ruston said:

It will depend on what decoder and what SA you use. So far, it's looking like the cab is the only option for a SA. There's very little space under the engine casing.

 

 

 

18 hours ago, Ruston said:

It will depend on what decoder and what SA you use. So far, it's looking like the cab is the only option for a SA. There's very little space under the engine casing.

 

 

If you don't mind me asking Dave, what is your preferred SA for this project please ?

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6 hours ago, Covkid said:

 

If you don't mind me asking Dave, what is your preferred SA for this project please ?

Lais KungFu 871007or 872007 are the types that I use in my locomotives. The 871007 has the capacitors configured in a square arrangement, whereas the 872007 has them laid next to each other. Either will fit in the cab of the 88DS and remain below window level.

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3 hours ago, cctransuk said:

Royal Mail have just delivered mine - crikey, ain't it dinky!

 

Now, where's the black and red paints?

 

John Isherwood.

 

First coat of black applied to the body, with grey to the bufferbeams to 'kill' the yellow.

 

Try as I might - including removing the two tiny countersunk screws which were revealed by removing the chassis - I could NOT dismantle the body. I suspect that cyanoacetate glue has been used during assembly.

 

So - a new, very fine brush was used to apply the black around windows, etc. The outlines of the chevrons and British Rail insignia are 'grinning' through the black paint - I'm hoping that a couple more coats will largely eliminate them.

 

I have just designed and printed transfers for the cabside original BR insignia and the number 20. I have printed more than I need, so the first two readers to reserve a set via PM, then send me an SAE, will be welcome to the surplus, FOC.

 

I have ordered a set of RUSTON / RH plates from Mike Edge, and am looking forward to completing the BR(WR) 88DS in it's original livery.

 

DEPARTMENTALWR20_01.jpg.3caa682bdf5f96e4ac5a882ff51a6073.jpg

 

John Isherwood.

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3 hours ago, cctransuk said:

Try as I might - including removing the two tiny countersunk screws which were revealed by removing the chassis - I could NOT dismantle the body. I suspect that cyanoacetate glue has been used during assembly.

The brake standard is glued in to the cab and it could be that the excess was not dry when the cab was fitted. Other than that there isn't any glue used to fix the cab in place at all. There are lugs on the engine casing that lock into the cab, preventing the cab from lifting, even if it isn't accidentally glued. The engine casing is glued to the running plate and located by 3 lugs either side and a large one that locks under at the front. You need to squeeze and ease the engine casing until you hear the glue cracking and giving way. Take it steady and carefully. It will come apart.

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1 minute ago, Ruston said:

The brake standard is glued in to the cab and it could be that the excess was not dry when the cab was fitted. Other than that there isn't any glue used to fix the cab in place at all. There are lugs on the engine casing that lock into the cab, preventing the cab from lifting, even if it isn't accidentally glued. The engine casing is glued to the running plate and located by 3 lugs either side and a large one that locks under at the front. You need to squeeze and ease the engine casing until you hear the glue cracking and giving way. Take it steady and carefully. It will come apart.

 

Ah-ha - I spied a touch of Rail Blue down the slot for large front lug; I'll try the squeeze technique.

 

(No Dear - on the model, not you)!

 

John Isherwood.

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18 minutes ago, Wagonmaster said:

Sorry John! 😀

 

 

 

I blame Kernow - when my Rail Blue No.20 failed to appear, they told me that they'd have emailed me to confirm that I would pay Hornby's increased price - and that I'd not responded.

 

They did admit, though, that they could find no record of said email having been sent!

 

So - I bow to your 'First, original livery, No.20'; whilst chuntering about 'Ruddy computer systems'!

 

John Isherwood.

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11 hours ago, BluenGreyAnorak said:

Just an aside to that, I bought mine from Kernows and, unprompted, they sort of split the difference on the as issued price and that at the time of ordering, so I ended up paying around £97 for my loco, which I thought was very decent of them.

 

Me too.

 

CJI.

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