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Bachmann OO9 'mainline' Hunslets


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15 minutes ago, PaulRhB said:

 

Analogue is enabled as standard on them so try reading then reducing the value in cv29 by 1 to switch it off and see if that helps? If not return it to the original value you read. 

 

 



Reducing CV 29 by 1 changes the direction (Bit 0). It is Bit 2 that controls DC operation and I believe this means you have to subtract 4 (if it is enabled) from CV 29

EDIT - I stared typing this at close to the same time PaulRhB made his post.

 
 

Edited by 5Dublo2
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Ah yes, because I'm normally changing the direction when editing CV29. That's why I instantly said number 1 🥴

 

So that means you 'turn off' the number 3 on the lenz system and that will be 'Bit 2'. 

 

That being because 'Bit 0' is number 1 on the keypad just to make things more confusing. 

 

It's still easier than trying to work out the binary or hex to change the part you want. I was taught binary at university but even after 13 years in IT have never needed it. 😄

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30 minutes ago, 5Dublo2 said:



Reducing CV 29 by 1 changes the direction (Bit 0). It is Bit 2 that controls DC operation and I believe this means you have to subtract 4 (if it is enabled) from CV 29

EDIT - I stared typing this at close to the same time PaulRhB made his post.

 
 

Correct and I’ve edited it thanks!

 

As I said in my last post my learning of DCC is by problems and as the page didn’t repeat the numbers for each bit I got confused. 

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25 minutes ago, PaulRhB said:


Sounds like it’s 50/50 if it works fine on Lenz and other projects work on the Digitrax.
That variation makes me suspect it’s either the analogue being turned on confusing the  older Digitrax system or a BEMF setting not being read well by the Digitrax system. Make sure you record cv settings so you can return them to normal if these don’t work 😉

 

Analogue is enabled as standard on them so try reading then reducing the value in cv29 by 1 to switch it off and see if that helps? If not return it to the original value you read. 


Or you could compare the BEMF levels on the two projects, cv58, and if they’re different, you could try altering them to match or it would be worth reading the Zimo manual pages 17-20 to see some ideas about altering it along with cv9. 

I have now come across another theory to explain the behaviour.  It could be to do with the fact that the DCS51 uses a potentiometer to control speed rather than a digital device.  If this is the case it  would explain the erratic nature of the fluctuations in speed, at some settings it drops only one or two steps in others it is clearly way more, it also varies with time.  So if a setting is left alone it can go from reasonably acceptable to not without any changes of control.  

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1 minute ago, CotBob said:

It could be to do with the fact that the DCS51 uses a potentiometer to control speed rather than a digital device.  If this is the case it  would explain the erratic nature of the fluctuations in speed


Isn't fault finding fun! Seems odd it doesn’t affect the other locos though if it’s the pot as surely that would cause similar problems with the Baldwins as it’s the same chip and motor.

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Just now, PaulRhB said:


Isn't fault finding fun! Seems odd it doesn’t affect the other locos though if it’s the pot as surely that would cause similar problems with the Baldwins as it’s the same chip and motor.

One would think so, but maybe there are some differences in the projects that are not obvious to casual, and mostly incompetent, observers like myself.

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8 minutes ago, CotBob said:

One would think so, but maybe there are some differences in the projects that are not obvious to casual, and mostly incompetent, observers like myself.


I agree, falling into the same category myself! 😉 I would suspect the cv setup vs the idiosyncrasies of the internal software over the pot first myself but my learning is mostly by trial, error and help off forums! 

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1 hour ago, CotBob said:

Just to keep momentum on this thread

 

Has anyone considered a full on Penrhyn layout (eg. a section of the mainline) with the Ladies and Charles?

 

I don't know much about the Penrhyn network so would be interested to see a recreation

 

Or is it the case where most 009 modellers have a generic layout to run anything and everything?

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I'm sure I've seen a layout based on the PQR Mainline but cannot remember it's name or who built it sadly.

 

Think it was at one of the GCR Model Events before Covid. I can't remember exactly which one unfortunately.

 

I've walked from Penrhyn Harbour to Bethesda on the Lon Las Ogwyn path, although that sort of jumps from the Narrow Gauge to the Standard Gauge branch to Bethesda.

https://www.sustrans.org.uk/find-a-route-on-the-national-cycle-network/lon-las-ogwen

I admit, it was strange as I didn't realise it did that until I was walking under bridges and through a tunnel which clearly were Standard Gauge size. 

Edited by LNERandBR
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1 minute ago, LNERandBR said:

I'm sure I've seen a layout based on the PQR Mainline but cannot remember it's name or who built it sadly.

 

Think it was at one of the GCR Model Events before Covid. I can't remember exactly which one unfortunately.


I know that Kathy Millat is doing one 

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1 hour ago, LNERandBR said:

I'm sure I've seen a layout based on the PQR Mainline but cannot remember it's name or who built it sadly.

 

Think it was at one of the GCR Model Events before Covid. I can't remember exactly which one unfortunately.


Porth Penrhyn and it had a thread here, sadly I understand Peter passed away, many of the photos are gone unfortunately, a few here

 

Edit:

The layout is now with the Bala Lake Rly for eventual display when it’s a bit further developed. 
 

thread on NGRM here but you need to register to see it. 
https://ngrm-online.com/index.php?/forums/topic/27351-009-layout-porth-penrhyn-layout-looking-for-a-new-home/#comment-696792

 

Edited by PaulRhB
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It would be marvellous to see a section of the Penhryn system. Peco include a possible layout for Port Penhryn in the 009 track plans book.  I don't have space, and really want a roundy roundy layout rather than an endy endy one so will have to try inspire someone else to do it.  

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Just about everybody is jumping on the Penrhyn bandwagon now. I plan to have a small Port based Diorama, althoigh I'm conetnplating moving it to Coed Y Parc.  My Charles has been delivered today after going the long way round from Derails via Northampton thanks to RM strikes. 

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On 17/12/2022 at 15:47, PaulRhB said:


Isn't fault finding fun! Seems odd it doesn’t affect the other locos though if it’s the pot as surely that would cause similar problems with the Baldwins as it’s the same chip and motor.

To the immense relief of nobody but myself, and whoever it was that had a reasonably cheap Piko Smartcontrol light in stock, the new control unit runs all my problematic loco's, both of them, perfectly with the added bonus that I can assign sometimes helpful symbols to function buttons so I don't forget which does what.

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12 hours ago, CotBob said:

To the immense relief of nobody but myself, and whoever it was that had a reasonably cheap Piko Smartcontrol light in stock, the new control unit runs all my problematic loco's, both of them, perfectly with the added bonus that I can assign sometimes helpful symbols to function buttons so I don't forget which does what.

Sorry to go a little off topic but Widness Models has a video about the full Piko system.

A very interesting system. It looks as if it’s on the way to being what I have longed for – a hand held DCC controller with buttons which represent the functions of particular locos. The knob looks as if it can be operated by the same hand which holds the controller, enabling control whilst not having to take an eye off the loco. Many thanks for the pointer and I’m glad you got your problem solved. 

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Well I picked up Charles and Nesta today, Nesta needed it’s pickups tweaking then ran fine. 
 

Charles . . . 😖

 

6FBB1E1E-A0AE-4A55-8392-3635EC681EA2.jpeg.013d39e2335846456dc621a5a5ba4627.jpegjust look at the cranks relative positions,

 

and it runs like this . . .


It will run at ‘mainline’ speeds but it can’t start smoothly or shunt.

Sorry but this costs too much for this and from my Baldwins and Fairlies they should be like sewing machines!

 

Its not particularly precise but this is what I’m seeing on the difference in quartering. Red being the centre line of the rear crank and yellow the relative play of the front crank. 

On one side the front axle has some slop either side of the rear crank angle. (It also has some nasty file marks on the crosshead)

3B1F4EF0-9752-49A8-8EF3-A9C31D156BDC.jpeg.6e0a7a232ce3537b28edcad3c2960898.jpeg


On the other side all the slop is to one side. If they were both like the right hand side above I’m sure it would be fine but this offset which means the cranks are at about 10° different angles to each other on the two axles is almost certainly the root cause of the problem. 

BC09396B-FD8E-46BF-97F3-96FFACC262E2.jpeg.51c3d71b044fba88c80fe1ec53e14181.jpeg


Sadly it’ll have to go back for the running and that crosshead. 
I know they can work but I’m at a bit of a loss as I don’t want to be bouncing these back and forth with mail order and my local only got one and Blanche is still away to be fixed because Bachmann had sold out. 

Edited by PaulRhB
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