the-gog Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 There's an extremely positive 2-page review in Rail Express. "...undoubtedly being the definitive 'Western'... ...quite possibly the best 4mm diesel model, overtaking the Hornby Class 60 and Bachmann prototype Deltic..." You get the gist. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
43179 Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 Hi guys, The Western was specified as clip in cab fittings, not (and i mean NOT (are you listening in china)) clip then glue into place. Dave Hi Dave , on mine the cabs were glued at the top where the bulkhead slots into the roof (either side of the wires for the cab lights) and either side where the cab clips into the cabside glazing. Regards Jon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BRealistic Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 It doesn't cross their minds, perhaps, that anyone would wish to take the model apart... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium cctransuk Posted February 22, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 22, 2013 In view of the 'controversy' over the headcode character height, I've printed the panels with characters to match Heljan ones, and also some with 4mm. / 1ft. characters, which was suggested by another poster to be the correct size. My initial impression is that the 4mm. / 1ft. ones will fit and look correct, but I'll report back when I've applied them; hopefully with a photo. Attached is a quick photo of 4mm. high (1ft) headcode characters applied to the outside of the headcode glazing of my D1000. Bear in mind that these have NOT been properly settled down with decal softener until I'm fully convinced that they are the right size. That said, they look pretty good to me. What do others think? Regards, John Isherwood, Cambridge Custom Transfers. 14 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Knowles Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 Attached is a quick photo of 4mm. high (1ft) headcode characters applied to the outside of the headcode glazing of my D1000. HEADCODE APPLIED.JPG Bear in mind that these have NOT been properly settled down with decal softener until I'm fully convinced that they are the right size. That said, they look pretty good to me. What do others think? Regards, John Isherwood, Cambridge Custom Transfers. I think these look excellent. It's not too difficult to make DIY waterslide transfers (unless you see a potential market here John?!). Otherwise try Googling Crafty Computer Paper. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium cctransuk Posted February 22, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 22, 2013 Another tip for D1000 owners. On my model, the buffer heads extended a little too far, showing excessively long shanks. I cut some small rectangles of 20 thou. / 0.5mm. plastic card with a central notch, to just fit over the shanks. With the buffer heads compressed, I slipped these over the shafts behind the buffer-beams and secured them to the rear of the beam with a tiny touch of solvent. Result - buffer heads with correct length shanks. Regards, John Isherwood. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
owentherail Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 I say OFF with the black bits 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Stationmaster Posted February 22, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 22, 2013 Attached is a quick photo of 4mm. high (1ft) headcode characters applied to the outside of the headcode glazing of my D1000. HEADCODE APPLIED.JPG Bear in mind that these have NOT been properly settled down with decal softener until I'm fully convinced that they are the right size. That said, they look pretty good to me. What do others think? Regards, John Isherwood, Cambridge Custom Transfers. I reckon they look pretty good John (I'll take a set if you decide to market them) 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
skin_2 Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 I just had a phone call from Geoff Davies to say that the Western Enterprise models have arrived at STEAM. I'll pop over there tomorrow to collect one Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon020 Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 Is everyone saying that you put the reporting digits on the outside of the glazing... really? Is the glazing really too thick to do it properly? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roy P Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 " ..... and an exquisite cycling lion symbol which you'll run a finger over and go "Ooh, ahh!". Ooh, ahh! RP 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rugd1022 Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 John - that looks great and changes the 'face' of the model overall I think. As for the headcode glazing - I honestly think it wouldn't hurt to not bother with it and just put the reporting numbers in on their own if possible, from a couple of feet away it'll probably look fine. I did this with my HJ Westerns and 47s and thought they looked ok from a ditance. An alternative is make your own glazing from a thinner sheet of clear plastic and make it a 'push fit' on top of the reporting numbers. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium cctransuk Posted February 22, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 22, 2013 Is everyone saying that you put the reporting digits on the outside of the glazing... really? Is the glazing really too thick to do it properly? The problem is that the cab interior and headcode / glazing components, which were designed to be clip-fit for easy removal, have been glued in by the Chinese assemblers. My experience (above) is that any attempt to access the interior of the headcode glazing will almost certainly cause damage. DapolDave has urgently contacted the manufacturers in China to tell them NOT to glue in the relevant components on the main production batches. So - it's hopefully only a problem for us D1000 owners. Regards, John Isherwood. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stewartingram Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 John are your headcodes illuminated in that shot? Just strikes me that there is a tad of illumination from behind, giving that opaque yellow look which to me looks sooooo right, not like modern chav-lights that all the cars have to have fitted nowadays (those awful modern LED thingys). If they aren't illuminated, then it's a trick of the light ('scuse the pun), but gives the effect. Stewart Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 i think it looks absolutley spot on 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium cctransuk Posted February 22, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 22, 2013 (edited) Does anyone know what the 1961 four character headcodes for the Up and Down "Pines Express" would have been? Why? Well, surely everyone recalls the load tests of D1000 over the S&D? No? Well, you're living in the wrong parallel universe, then! Regards, John Isherwood, Cambridge Custom Transfers. Edited February 22, 2013 by cctransuk 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rugd1022 Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 Looking at the lack of a wiper on the Driver's side makes me picture a nice etched one in it's place.... ;-) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium cctransuk Posted February 22, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 22, 2013 John are your headcodes illuminated in that shot? Just strikes me that there is a tad of illumination from behind, giving that opaque yellow look which to me looks sooooo right, not like modern chav-lights that all the cars have to have fitted nowadays (those awful modern LED thingys). If they aren't illuminated, then it's a trick of the light ('scuse the pun), but gives the effect. Stewart Nope - just a quick shot on the workbench. The 'trick of the light' is probably the result of slight under-exposure - it was a quick shot, after all! Regards, John. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rugd1022 Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 I've had a quick play around with the image... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium cctransuk Posted February 22, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 22, 2013 (edited) I just had a phone call from Geoff Davies to say that the Western Enterprise models have arrived at STEAM. I'll pop over there tomorrow to collect one See http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/67674-Dapol-western-photo-review/page-28?&p=957505 Regards, John Isherwood. Edited February 22, 2013 by cctransuk Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
the-gog Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 On Tuesday night, Jon 43179 posted images that he was able to access the inside of his headcode glazing and removed the black lines with Cif, washed it, then attached two of the supplied headcode labels on the inside. Now, was he able to do this without breaking anything? http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/67674-Dapol-western-photo-review/page-24 RWJ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
B15nac Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 hi i receved my d1000 today an its a lovely loco but im a tad worried that its a bit low! with the speedo fitted it brought my attention to the problem! can anyone help me with this as it may be a easy fix! she runs fine an its evenly low all round! hope you can see by the pictures regards neil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon020 Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 The problem is that the cab interior and headcode / glazing components, which were designed to be clip-fit for easy removal, have been glued in by the Chinese assemblers.My experience (above) is that any attempt to access the interior of the headcode glazing will almost certainly cause damage.DapolDave has urgently contacted the manufacturers in China to tell them NOT to glue in the relevant components on the main production batches.So - it's hopefully only a problem for us D1000 owners.Regards,John Isherwood.OK thanks for this clarification... but hopefully Dave can confirm whether the blue fye ones are affected too. That would be a show stopper for me. Looking ok from few feet away might be ok for some... but not me. Now worried! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DapolDave Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 I'm sorry Jon020, This affects the Blue ones as they are currently 'in country'. i can only suggest if its such a deal breaker you cancel your order and wait for the next run sometime in the autumn if they prove popular. this will have the added bonus of freeing up a model for someone else. Cheers Dave 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Y Posted February 22, 2013 Author Share Posted February 22, 2013 On Tuesday night, Jon 43179 posted images that he was able to access the inside of his headcode glazing and removed the black lines with Cif, washed it, then attached two of the supplied headcode labels on the inside. Now, was he able to do this without breaking anything? http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/67674-Dapol-western-photo-review/page-24 RWJ I'd say it's unlikely you'd break anything if you proceed with caution. I placed the headcodes internally in the OP. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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