Guest jim s-w Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 Hi B15nac It does look lower than the other pics ive seen but thats no bad thing as i thought the others looked too high. The actual height from top of the rail to the center of the buffer should be 14mm and if this is the case and it runs ok I wouldnt worry. Does the speedo cable bend? If not perhaps a spot of gentle heat would help you bend it a tad to line up with the center of the wheel? HTH Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon020 Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 (edited) I'm sorry Jon020, This affects the Blue ones as they are currently 'in country'. i can only suggest if its such a deal breaker you cancel your order and wait for the next run sometime in the autumn if they prove popular. this will have the added bonus of freeing up a model for someone else. Cheers Dave OK Dave. That's a shame. Glazing breaking is a problem if that's the outcome of trying to fit codes properly. Good luck sorting the production problems. Edited February 22, 2013 by Jon020 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
the-gog Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 Hi B15nac It does look lower than the other pics ive seen but thats no bad thing as i thought the others looked too high. The actual height from top of the rail to the center of the buffer should be 14mm and if this is the case and it runs ok I wouldnt worry. Does the speedo cable bend? If not perhaps a spot of gentle heat would help you bend it a tad to line up with the center of the wheel? HTH Jim Even better, use a bit of ribbed rubber (calm down) and glue a bearing to the speedo pickup, attach to wheel centre with double sided tape. RWJ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cctransuk Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 I'd say it's unlikely you'd break anything if you proceed with caution. I placed the headcodes internally in the OP.Andy, Are you sure that your review model was from the production run? My D1000 doesn't look like that - the bit that appears to be foam on yours is solid plastic on D1000. The cab interior and headcode box are VERY securely glued to each other and to the body. My warning against dismantling stands - I learned the hard way and I'm not ham-fisted. Regards, John Isherwood. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jim s-w Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 What bearing is that small that you could attach with double sided tape and would still allow the wheel to rotate? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
the-gog Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 I'd say it's unlikely you'd break anything if you proceed with caution. I placed the headcodes internally in the OP. So if you managed not to break it, and ditto 43179, then perhaps cctransuk was unlucky? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
the-gog Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 What bearing is that small that you could attach with double sided tape and would still allow the wheel to rotate? Just a suggestion. There may be a different way of holding it close. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
B15nac Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 Yea the problem is because its to low the coupling that fits in the slot in the valance is rubbing an almost jamming!! Regards neil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
D1030western musketeer Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 Am i to take it that those like me that like adding a crew to the cabs have now got to wait for the 2nd production run as most reviews seem to say avoid taking apart. There was me hoping to have all my Heljan ones replaced by march this year.And does this also include the kernows versions having the cab glued in with the headcode. As mentioned i have no problem fitting fox transfers waterslide headcodes over the front but having a cab glued in is another thing. And last is this to delay further what i like many have been waiting for,a western of all westerns. richard. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
the-gog Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 Am i to take it that those like me that like adding a crew to the cabs have now got to wait for the 2nd production run as most reviews seem to say avoid taking apart. There was me hoping to have all my Heljan ones replaced by march this year.And does this also include the kernows versions having the cab glued in with the headcode. As mentioned i have no problem fitting fox transfers waterslide headcodes over the front but having a cab glued in is another thing. And last is this to delay further what i like many have been waiting for,a western of all westerns. richard. This is my worry with fitting cab crew. This might sound like a radical suggestion, but as the Chinese factory caused this problem due to not adhering to manufacturing instructions, surely they should cough up for replacement cracked parts in a similar way that Hornby have been replacing the cracked chassis on some of their 31s? Richard (another one) 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 Something tells me however, that this would be at a cost to Dapol. Only DapolDave is in the position to say whether this is an option, or replacement bodies like Bachmann did with the 416's. I'm hoping that the Maroons won't be affected by this, again only DapolDave can say! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
the-gog Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 Something tells me however, that this would be at a cost to Dapol. Only DapolDave is in the position to say whether this is an option, or replacement bodies like Bachmann did with the 416's. I'm hoping that the Maroons won't be affected by this, again only DapolDave can say! I don't see why it should cost Dapol anything. If the contractor fouled up (as it looks like they did by gluing things together when they shouldn't have), then it's up to them to rectify it at their cost. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted February 22, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 22, 2013 Personally speaking, I think everyone is making too much of the glazing problem. There cannot be more glue in there than there us holding the cabs in the class 22's, and with care and perseverance they can be removed successfully, even by a hamfisted sod like me. Also a message to Jono20, after what you've done to the Deltics, anything on the Western will be a doddle, trust me. Mike. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
the penguin of doom Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 Personally speaking, I think everyone is making too much of the glazing problem. There cannot be more glue in there than there us holding the cabs in the class 22's, and with care and perseverance they can be removed successfully, even by a hamfisted sod like me. Also a message to Jono20, after what you've done to the Deltics, anything on the Western will be a doddle, trust me. Mike. I'd have to agree Mike. Come on Jon, don't be defeatist. A man of your skill can knock out a set of flush glazed headcode boxes and get the "exclusive" how to on here. Go on, keep your order and inspire an "unsure" NE devotee that he really needs a Blue one..... Cheers. Sean. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Stationmaster Posted February 23, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 23, 2013 HEADCODE APPLIED.JPG Does anyone know what the 1961 four character headcodes for the Up and Down "Pines Express" would have been? Why? Well, surely everyone recalls the load tests of D1000 over the S&D? No? Well, you're living in the wrong parallel universe, then! Regards, John Isherwood, Cambridge Custom Transfers. Ah now 1961 is a slight problem as it was still using LMR pattern train numbers - 1411 Southbound and 1525 northbound. In the summer of 1962 it had 'proper' 4 character numbers and was 1O95 southbound and 1M04 northbound. Hope that helps a bit. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
43179 Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 On Tuesday night, Jon 43179 posted images that he was able to access the inside of his headcode glazing and removed the black lines with Cif, washed it, then attached two of the supplied headcode labels on the inside. Now, was he able to do this without breaking anything? http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/67674-Dapol-western-photo-review/page-24 RWJ Hi - I proceeded with caution - other than the sound of cracking glue, I didn't break anything - though I did have to 'break' the glue joint that holds the headcode/lighting prisms onto the underside of the cab moulding. If you are careful and separate the lighting unit/headcode glazing into componant parts , then its quite easy to fit the headcodes behind the headcode glazing (where they should be) HTH Jon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
the-gog Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 Hi - I proceeded with caution - other than the sound of cracking glue, I didn't break anything - though I did have to 'break' the glue joint that holds the headcode/lighting prisms onto the underside of the cab moulding. If you are careful and separate the lighting unit/headcode glazing into componant parts , then its quite easy to fit the headcodes behind the headcode glazing (where they should be) HTH Jon Many thanks for this. I just need mine to turn up. 3 days on and "Royal Mail First Class post" still hasn't produced anything. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
owentherail Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 So as i understand to change head code numbers is going to be a pain, let alone get rid of black boarder, want to change reporting numbers with o0oo or 1010....... If possible Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold bcnPete Posted February 23, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 23, 2013 (edited) Also a message to Jono20, after what you've done to the Deltics, anything on the Western will be a doddle, trust me. Well said that man Come on Jon...get stuck in and I'm sure you will ace it...but you must finish that 47 first Well done Dave - am sure the 2mm version will be perfect Edited February 23, 2013 by bcnPete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cctransuk Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 Ah now 1961 is a slight problem as it was still using LMR pattern train numbers - 1411 Southbound and 1525 northbound. In the summer of 1962 it had 'proper' 4 character numbers and was 1O95 southbound and 1M04 northbound. Hope that helps a bit. Perfect; my memory was at fault anyway - it was 1962 that WESTERN ENTERPRISE was trialled on the S&D. Headcodes will be printed later this morning. Thanks again, John Isherwood. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jim s-w Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 Well done Dave - am sure the 2mm version will be perfect Dave has already stated it's too late to make any changes to the n gauge one but then he has also said it does look better than the 4mil one Jim 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
45568 Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 Perfect; my memory was at fault anyway - it was 1962 that WESTERN ENTERPRISE was trialled on the S&D. Headcodes will be printed later this morning. Thanks again, John Isherwood. Free to all those quoting their Steam reference number John? (Especially those in the Antipodes...?) Yours in good humour, Peter C. (A very satisfied customer of CCT). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DapolDave Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 Dave has already stated it's too late to make any changes to the n gauge one but then he has also said it does look better than the 4mil one Jim Yes, but I am an N gauge modeller (the gauge of kings ;-)) 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted February 23, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 23, 2013 Yes, but I am an N gauge modeller (the gauge of kings ;-)) I shall be doing something with the wheels so they will run on the much nicer 2FS track but wholeheartedly agree with the sentiment :-) The fact that its too late to do anything about the N gauge ones must mean they're not that far off! Jerry 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
B15nac Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 Has anyone had a issue with the lights not working? I see there's a plug inside the body that must be to do with lights? But it's connected can anyone let me no what to look for? Regards Neil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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