Dapol 'Western'

[the-gog]

Another fictitious Western name:

 

D1188 WESTERN HANDBAGS

[trisonic]

31s ARE attractive, after all they beagn life on the GE, not the WR!

 

Stewart

Sorry, I did know that but was suffering from a bout of irony, Stewart....('cos no one else seems to like 'em except us GE types)  

[Guest jim s-w]

Another fictitious Western name:D1188 WESTERN HANDBAGS

 

Or D1189 WESTERN FECKLESS perhaps ?

[Andy Y]

Then you won't mind offering an apology to Chris Leigh, on behalf of the RMwebbers who took it on themselves to make a meal out of it, as a way of putting a line under the whole thing?

 

Both 'sides' have spoken as they find and I don't recall recruiting an abritrator. Not that it needs it; stop trying to press buttons please.

[neal]

Or D1189 WESTERN FECKLESS perhaps ?

To accompany Western Ruler, what about Western Set-square and Western Protractor.

 

N

[drjcontroller]

Think I might have dropped a bit of a rick.

I have 2 of the blue "D1005" on order, but looking at the model as reviewed in Hornby magazine, the battery box retaining clips are very noticeable. Am I right in thinking these were fitted "post Ealing" i.e '74 onwards ?

If so, as my period is 1971, do I cancel my order and wait for an original condition body in BFYE or do I go ahead with the purchase and apply paint/weathering to hide them or resort to some minor surgery.

Have to decide fairly quickly I think !

 

Douglas

[the-gog]

Think I might have dropped a bit of a rick.

I have 2 of the blue "D1005" on order, but looking at the model as reviewed in Hornby magazine, the battery box retaining clips are very noticeable. Am I right in thinking these were fitted "post Ealing" i.e '74 onwards ?

If so, as my period is 1971, do I cancel my order and wait for an original condition body in BFYE or do I go ahead with the purchase and apply paint/weathering to hide them or resort to some minor surgery.

Have to decide fairly quickly I think !

 

Douglas

I think someone wrote somewhere that models with pre-Talisman-crash battery clips will be produced later. Can't find the quote at the moment.

 

Edit - Can't find the quote.

Edited February 21, 2013 by the-gog

[owentherail]

I hope shawplan have plenty of western nameplates in stock as venturer plates useless unless you want to cut off headboard clips. Now at least I can decide on what one I want to do it as.

[Charlie]

Another fictitious Western name:

 

D1188 WESTERN HANDBAGS

 

Western Sahara? Western Union? Western Hemisphere? And of course Western Cheddar, a bit strong that one...

[dagrizz]

I will not buy one of these models until it's called 'Country and Western' 

[Michael Delamar]

one for Jim Smith Wright, you know you want one

 

Class 52 D1052 Western Viceroy at Birmingham New Street by olympusOM1, on Flickr

[Bob Reid]

In some form of recompence for the absence of the 21/29 Dapol Dave is producing that rare TTG/SYP Class 52 - Western SMT....

[DapolDave]

Morning everyone,

 

China have informed me that they can leave the black rubber seal painting off the headcode glazing, but cannot due to the fineness and difficulty paint the black around the aperture of the opening on future models.

 

whats do you all think? Should it be removed or not. Your choice.

cheers

Dave

[the-gog]

The black line could be drawn in by hand. It just requires a template to be made up (say out of very thin steel), put on the front of the loco, and drawn round with a fibre tip pen. That's what I anticipate I'll do. It will have labour cost implications for you though. I don't understand why they can't tampo print it on. All sorts of other small detail has managed to be printed on, but this is a very thin line, less than a mm in width.

 

RWJ

[Adrian Knowles]

Morning everyone,

 

China have informed me that they can leave the black rubber seal painting off the headcode glazing, but cannot due to the fineness and difficulty paint the black around the aperture of the opening on future models.

 

whats do you all think? Should it be removed or not. Your choice.

cheers

Dave

 

I'd say leave it as it is and let the individual modeller decide how he wants to deal with it. Having no black line might look a bit odd for those who don't wish to meddle with the finish of their model.

[the penguin of doom]

I'd say leave it as it is and let the individual modeller decide how he wants to deal with it. Having no black line might look a bit odd for those who don't wish to meddle with the finish of their model.

I would have gone the other way and said take it off which is living proof Dapol Dave that you can't please all the folk all the time but lord knows you're trying and I for one, thank you for that.....

 

Now, when will there be a BFE in 1967 condition?

 

Cheers.

 

Sean.

Edited February 22, 2013 by the penguin of doom

[Trains4U]

Draw the line round the left hand pane, and leave it from the right hand pane.

then everyone will be happy... (or not)

 

 

Personally, I'd leave it off. 

Is the glazing removable?  if it is, id be more tempted to pop them out and paint the edge of the glazing panel black, for that really fine appearance.

Edited February 22, 2013 by Trains4U

[the-gog]

Draw the line round the left hand pane, and leave it from the right hand pane.

then everyone will be happy... (or not)

 

 

Personally, I'd leave it off. 

Is the glazing removable?  if it is, id be more tempted to pop them out and paint the edge of the glazing panel black, for that really fine appearance.

I think the glazing is part of the main bodyshell.

[geoff]

Western Sahara? Western Union? Western Hemisphere? And of course Western Cheddar, a bit strong that one...

Has no one suggested Western Front or has that already caused too many battle lines to be drawn?

 

Geoff

[Jon020]

Morning everyone,

 

China have informed me that they can leave the black rubber seal painting off the headcode glazing, but cannot due to the fineness and difficulty paint the black around the aperture of the opening on future models.

 

whats do you all think? Should it be removed or not. Your choice.

cheers

Dave

My thoughts: that glazing needs to be made as big as possible :-) and digits will be big to fill the available space. Leave the rubber seal off... for those of us that still want it, we can add it; it'll still be easier for us than trying to make the glazing bigger.

 

After a troubled night... I thunk the Hornby mag review has done this model no favours... words OK but photos not showing the model well at all... but photos on here still show it better ... I came close to cancelling my order... which I do not think is good coming from reading a review... I'd say beware of such reviews and look fully at all threads on here properly if you can't see one in person.

The model holds promise which I still hope to make full use of.

[brushman47544]

Morning everyone,

 

China have informed me that they can leave the black rubber seal painting off the headcode glazing, but cannot due to the fineness and difficulty paint the black around the aperture of the opening on future models.

 

whats do you all think? Should it be removed or not. Your choice.

cheers

Dave

 

Thanks Dave for giving us the opportunity to comment. Since the reporting numbers have a black background, wouldn't they perhaps create a black border of sorts?

 

Perhaps selfishly though but I am buying one, if you removed the back border how will the WLA L/E look as presumably it will have the (smaller) reporting numbers pre-fitted?

 

For me it's too close a call, but I do have some Heljan Western reporting numbers ready to fit !

[DapolDave]

I think the glazing is part of the main bodyshell.

Nope,

 

its a separate plastic part.

None of the cab is glued (unlike the 22's) so removal is easier.

 

cheers

Dave

[the-gog]

Note that Heljan have chosen not to represent the black rubber surround. If China really can't print it, leaving it off altogether is the least worst option and the most prototypical. The small headcode aperture and numbers is the bigger problem to fix, and fixed quite easily by not printing the black paint on the inside. Even without the black rubber surround, it'll still be streets ahead of every other Western. Those of us who want to represent it can do so ourselves.

 

RWJ

[cctransuk]

Morning everyone,

 

China have informed me that they can leave the black rubber seal painting off the headcode glazing, but cannot due to the fineness and difficulty paint the black around the aperture of the opening on future models.

 

whats do you all think? Should it be removed or not. Your choice.

cheers

Dave

Dave,

 

On balance, I'd leave off the black surround, for the following reasons.

 

A tale of woe!

 

Firstly, I had extreme difficulty removing the cab interior and light channel components to gain access to remove the headcode glazing / lightbox. The components were heavily glued in and I managed to break off all of the marker light clear rods; (which ARE extremely thin).

 

Secondly, and VERY foolishly, I decided to use lighter fuel to remove the black surrounds from the headcode glazing. VERY bad move - the clear plastic headcode panel / lightbox immediately crazed and cracked! Repairable with solvent but no longer unblemished.

 

Anyway, the upshot was that I reassembled the model without trying to add the headcodes, wishing that I'd not bothered in the first place.

 

All is not lost, though. Fortunately, I have the ability to produce waterslide headcodes to apply to the outside of the headcode glazing, as you had intended with the self-adhesive ones supplied.

 

In view of the 'controversy' over the headcode character height, I've printed the panels with characters to match Heljan ones, and also some with 4mm. / 1ft. characters, which was suggested by another poster to be the correct size.

 

My initial impression is that the 4mm. / 1ft. ones will fit and look correct, but I'll report back when I've applied them; hopefully with a photo.

 

My strong advice to other proud owners of D1000 is do NOT try to fit headcodes inside the glazing!

 

Also, be VERY careful when handling the body; the etched lifting rings are very fragile and, understandably, easily knocked off.

 

Despite the foregoing, which was entirely my own fault, I am extremely pleased with my WESTERN ENTERPRISE.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood,

Cambridge Custom Transfers.

[DapolDave]

Hi guys,

 

And thanks John.

 

As you can imagine i have had no cause to actually open up a Western production model yet and i dont have any to hand either which is a pain.

The Western was specified as clip in cab fittings, not (and i mean NOT (are you listening in china)) clip then glue into place.

The first and second EP models had this clip in feature and so did the approval decorated models i received originally.

 

you can imagine after actually specifying the clip in cab etc, and seeing it on the cad/cam and on the model, my frustration with then now gluing the successful clip in methon into place as well!! Grrrrrrrrrr

 

Anyway, i've fired off a mail to China in the last 30 minutes (Friday 11.50am here now), and will get answers and an assurance it wont happen on future models, either for clients or stockists.

cheers

Dave