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Battersea Stewarts Lane - London


Shedmaster

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Hi All,

 

I can honestly recommend the 'professional' approach, as in my experience here, as long as you can supply good data such as photo's and measurements, you are guaranteed an impressive result.

 

Of course, I've been studying the pictures of the finished work here whilst awaiting delivery, and a number of things are coming to light, such as the fact that the surrounding model is going to HAVE to be of equal high quality and also that all of those lovely little rooms, windows etc are going to have to be populated and lit properly, to enhance the effects.

 

Am off to Ally Pally this weekend to browse for some goodies as there is no delivery schedule for the buildings just yet, would anybody have any ideas where I can obtain GOOD quality overhead gantry cranes though please, in 4mm scale ? I have the yellow 'Cornerstone' ones but they are not suitable, any ideas ?

 

Thanks,

 

Dave

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Good afternoon.....

 

I'd like to add an update, promised to a friend a short time ago, relating to a new product.........the 'PH Designs Sleeper Spacing Tool'.

 

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This tool was designed to help myself and others obtain a better look from the much maligned Peco track system, by adjusting the space between the sleepers to the correct Network Rail spec of 14 inches between sleeper faces.

 

I would like like to use P4 track for my layout but this has been decided against, so I needed a way of improving the Peco Code 75 track that I was intending to use, albeit being unable to alter the gauge.

 

As I have not ordered my Peco track yet, I am able to demonstrate the use of the tool, but using Shinohara Code 83 rail instead.......I hope it is at least a little useful to illustrate the use of the tool ?

 

Here is one of our Hornby Seacow wagons on the original track :

 

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This is the same wagon on track that has been re-spaced, by cutting out the webs between the sleepers and using the tool to locate the sleepers at the correct spacing :

 

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This is how it would look in use, the ruler is my attempt to give a guide but is not required for the job :

 

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Finally, a new arrival on the layout is 47 768 'Resonant'.....a fully detailed, twin speaker sound equipped RES Loco.........shown here with it's shiny new blackened wheels on the re-spaced demo track :

 

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I'm personally very impressed with the tool and although my pictures are not up to much, I can assure you that in the flesh, this tool makes a hell of a difference !

 

I'll be bringing it to the show on Saturday this weekend, if you would like to see it for yourself, please advise and I will try to work something out with you.

 

Of course, if you have any questions relating to the product, please do not ask me but speak to Peter of PH designs, who is a member of this forum.

 

Thanks,

 

Dave

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Just a quick question , the jig looks really good , i have taken many hints and tips from Pete Harveys posts and they have been absolutey fantastic ...

 

 

Anyway heres the question , after cutting the webs the and using the jig to space them ( they do look better ) how do you stop them sliding out of alignment when fixing a full section of track ?

 

How does it look with curves ? and points ... sorry if it sounds negative but it's just what problems i can see myself having using the jig .

 

Shaun .

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Shaun

 

After spacing the sleepers and cutting the track to length, I would paint PVA on to the cork or base board then place the track on top.

 

Points will look ok with careful ballasting, on curved track space it before it is curved and fixed in place.

 

Pete

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Just a quick question , the jig looks really good , i have taken many hints and tips from Pete Harveys posts and they have been absolutey fantastic ...

 

 

Anyway heres the question , after cutting the webs the and using the jig to space them ( they do look better ) how do you stop them sliding out of alignment when fixing a full section of track ?

 

How does it look with curves ? and points ... sorry if it sounds negative but it's just what problems i can see myself having using the jig .

 

Shaun .

 

Hi Shaun,

 

You have posed some good questions there, and these are things that I too will need to deal with.

 

However, I can't answer your question properly as my quick test was only done on one spare piece of track.

 

If I'm honest, which of course I am, I think that curves will NOT pose a problem, as when you place the tool between the sleepers, the sides of the tool do not touch the inside edges of the rails, so this would give room for curves to be maintained, but I can't say what radius's were possible etc.

 

I am hoping to show the tool in use during my tracklaying work, but this won't be for a while yet.

 

Points shouldn't be a problem as they are supplied with sleepers already fitted and spaced for you to a reasonable distance, so no adjustment should be necessary..........thats if I understood your meaning correctly ?

 

I hope this helps a little ?

 

Thanks,

 

Dave

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Hi Dave,

 

The sleeper spacing jig is an excellent idea, thanks for sharing your exploits with us very interesting. Changing the spacing between sleepers certainly does make a difference in the appearance.

 

Like you I would love to go down the P4 road but feel it is too much for me both in terms of cost and skills required. I have decided to use code 75 Peco points, 00 gauge SMP BH flextrack and Exactoscale concrete sleeper which I feel is a good compromise.

 

Might have to get one of your jigs!

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Hi Dave,

 

The sleeper spacing jig is an excellent idea, thanks for sharing your exploits with us very interesting. Changing the spacing between sleepers certainly does make a difference in the appearance.

 

Like you I would love to go down the P4 road but feel it is too much for me both in terms of cost and skills required. I have decided to use code 75 Peco points, 00 gauge SMP BH flextrack and Exactoscale concrete sleeper which I feel is a good compromise.

 

Might have to get one of your jigs!

 

Hi Mr Grimleygrid,

 

Well pleased that you like the jig.

 

Hopefully not long now before track planning can start smile.gif

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Hi

 

I like the look of the jig, but have a couple of comments.

1) The sleepers / moulded chairs on the Peco track will move a little after spacing out and as Peter states, will need to held in place with the PVA on the track base. I have adjusted sleepers on my own layout, but used a single gauge between the sleepers - slow process.

2) I would assume that the sleepers are spaced 'dry' after cutting the rail sections to length, carefully lift the track section, apply the glue and carefully lower track back into position. The sleeper spacings can the be checked with the gauge. My only concern would be - where would the gauge 'come to rest' - on top of the sleeper or onto the glue / track bed? If the latter, the ends of the gauge would need to be cleaned off - i.e. remove the glue.

 

Having stated the comments above, I think that the gauge is a great idea and will look to buy one before starting the next layout.

 

Cheers

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Just got three rather large boxes home from Ally Pally !!!

 

Used the car instead of the train today, as I was collecting my new buildings from the show, and using my pal's 'Sat-Nav' I found the journey FAR less hassle than the train.

 

Only snag is........the wife caught me sneaking them in from the car...............

 

Seriously, very impressed with the work that has gone into these, so, a very detailed inspection will be taking place asap and hopefully I can add some photo's very soon........

 

Off to the shed now...........

 

Regards,

 

Dave

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Hi Scott,

 

I know.......me's BAD !!!

 

So, I guess you won't want a progress report then ?

 

Okay, of course you do........here goes :

 

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I have placed the new buildings roughly as they will sit on the baseboard top ( not shown ), and think the buildings sit perfectly in relation to the total layout size and track plan that I am working towards.

This means that I will be able to set up all of the cameo scenes that I require later on, such as using the right hand side of the building and also the side door for camera access, to gain internal pictures without space compromises.

 

All window panels will be fitted after painting, along with one of the doors on the front of the main shed and the lighting of the interior will be carefully set up to get as much daylight in as possible.

 

The quality of both the buildings is simply first class and not only are they very well detailed, but sturdy too.

 

I also managed to sneak in some rail vehicles to judge the internal dimensions and they were spot on.

 

More to follow later............it's been a long day.......

 

Regards,

 

Dave

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Hi Dave,

 

Great to see those buildings in place - they look exceptionally good and yours is certainly not going to be another depot layout - I like the vision you have for the layout as well in terms of your photo angles in the future and so on it will be very good to see once it is all complete! I meant to ask when I saw your loadhaul saloon but what kits or parts was it made from - I would really like to model a maroon livered one like DRS and WCRC somtimes use but have no real idea of how to go about this and yours looks very good? Any advice would be appreciated.

 

Thanks,

Mark

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Hi Dave,

 

Great to see those buildings in place - they look exceptionally good and yours is certainly not going to be another depot layout - I like the vision you have for the layout as well in terms of your photo angles in the future and so on it will be very good to see once it is all complete! I meant to ask when I saw your loadhaul saloon but what kits or parts was it made from - I would really like to model a maroon livered one like DRS and WCRC somtimes use but have no real idea of how to go about this and yours looks very good? Any advice would be appreciated.

 

Thanks,

Mark

 

Thanks for your comments gents, although I feel it is slow progress here compared to some of the more experienced modellers, I'm just happy that it's all going to my plan. I just really need to avoid the Hattons website.

 

Mark, the EWS and Loadhaul saloons in my collection are both A1 models kits of etched parts, built onto Hornby LMS 50ft vans, so as to enable us to have some outstanding underframe detail !

 

The basic idea of the layout is that vehicles like these will have a proper home here and not just live in boxes, unseen.

 

The layout will also have 'play value' when it comes to shunting the stuff around for photo's etc....very much like they do at the real location.

 

Dave

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icon_wow.gif wow - they are some size!

 

 

Looking forward to seeing the layout progress icon_smile.gif

 

Hiya,

 

Been doing some more on the layout tonight, starting with adding an extra baseboard frame to make it 8ft x 4ft.........for now !

 

I'll add the remaining 3.5ft at a later stage when my funds have recovered.........but I WILL be adding it, so as to be able to play trains properly later.

 

The two sheds sit very well on a footprint of just over 6ft out of the 8ft available, so this leaves me a whopping 2ft in front of the sheds for plonking Loco's etc and taking pics, before even seeing a board join.

 

You rightly say "they are some size!", and I can vouch for that. I placed a Class 09 and a 33 in various positions tonight and it was amazing how 'right' they looked in relation to the building.

 

The funny thing is that railways by their nature are not small...........I've only picked a small part of a small depot to model, and yet in 4mm scale it is still gigantic !!!!!

 

Dave

smile.gif

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Hi Dave,

 

I collected some extra bits for Barrow Road from Chris at Ally Pally on saturday and was treated to a sneak preview of your buildings.... very impressive I must say.

 

I look forward to watching your layout develop.

 

Regards,

 

Robin

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Hi Dave,

 

I collected some extra bits for Barrow Road from Chris at Ally Pally on saturday and was treated to a sneak preview of your buildings.... very impressive I must say.

 

I look forward to watching your layout develop.

 

Regards,

 

Robin

 

Hi Robin,

 

Likewise.........went back to view your work again today...........MOST impressive indeed !

 

Have to say it's great to have these buildings home now........my shunting Loco. looks lost in that great shed space !

 

The next steps will be getting the baseboard top in situ, siting the buildings and then cutting in the pits, before screwing the top to the frames - all before I can order the track, lay it in place and then get messy laying the concrete floor's !

 

In the main 'electric shed' I will have a mare of a job getting the right floor levels but in the right hand shed I will just be concreting up to rail height.......throughout !

 

My plan is to use plasterboard joining tape, the square holed stuff on a roll, laid on the baseboard, then use 'extrior pollyfilla' troweled as flat as glass, burying all three roads, before running something like a 'Triang' wheelset along each buried piece of track to give the required 'flangeway'. I know from a previous project that exterior pollyfilla does work........if used properly, it is very very solid.

 

Just one last thing.....

 

In the right hand shed, pictured here with an arrow, you will see one of the roof supports that is solid, not open patterned like the rest :

 

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It is for this feature :

 

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Basically this 'curtain' enables the shed to be divided into two bits...........a paint shop at the front and the rest of the shed behind it.

 

This has all been measured out for my model so that just as on the real thing, you can fit one Pullman car length inside the shed doors, then you have the curtain, before entering the main, rear part of the building.

 

The model curtain will be made using clear plastic folder inserts, cut appropriately, to enable trains to pass through without hassle.

 

Dave

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Well Dave what can you say but stunning, absolutely stunning. A fantastic piece of modelling and you will certainly have lots of fun playing with your new sheds. I look forward to seeing photos of some stock sitting inside those lovely buildings. cool.gif

 

Good luck with the concreting! I will be watching to see how you get on and what methods you use as I have a bit to do myself. My plan was to use plasticard but will see nearer the time.

 

Construction Grids and 60s will be right at home inside. Enjoy!

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Looking good Sir -

Would you have any room to run any Class 411's and Class 416's

 

Been a big fan of your work for years wink.gif

 

Ian

 

Mmmm,

 

I can't think of a more appropriate item to show off at 'The Lane'......wasn't it part of the reason for the Electric Shed to be built in the first place, to be a home for the 71's and 411's in 1959 ?

 

Not that I ever worked with them much, but with some clever photography, I reckon we could recreate 1959 quite easily............now, where did I put that Class 71' ?

 

biggrin.gif

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Good Evening,

 

Whilst waiting for the baseboard topping, we've been checking the internal space available with a few various vehicles.

 

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I know that everybody's probably seen the excellent Bachmann 4-CEP, however, this borrowed one has achieved two 'firsts' this evening, that of being the first vehicle to run in the sheds under it's own power and the first to be attended to for maintenence at this location....in this case the fitting of a DCC chip. Unfortunately, the fitters here will require more 'type training', as they managed to break the underframe trussing whilst removing the tightfit bodyshell !!! sad.gif

 

33 109 'Captain Bill Smith R.N.R' stubbornly refused to join in the fun tonight, being declared a complete failure during the evening............but I couldn't resist pairing them up for a quick picture.

 

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Thats all for now,

 

Dave

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Dave It's looking good.

 

How are you going to cut the sheds over the base board joint if you are going to have a joint in the base board?

 

Pete

 

Hi Pete,

 

The board tops you see in the pics are temporary. I'm waiting for the one piece jobbie to arrive still. This is what rendered the eBay baseboard purchase no good for the project.

 

For transit.....in exceptional circumstances ONLY, the shed buildings are removed, the 8ft x 4ft part is detached from the 3.5ft x 4ft and each part is then moved to the waiting juggernaut !

 

The buildings will be removeable in their constituent parts as this will be how I gain internal access for the camera.

 

Dave

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