cactustrain Posted July 28, 2010 Share Posted July 28, 2010 Yes, Dave, we do like it! Lovely modelling. I'll be keeping an eye on this layout from now on. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shedmaster Posted July 31, 2010 Author Share Posted July 31, 2010 Good Afternoon, Just a couple of update snaps, to demonstrate how the sectional flooring is going down..... I'm cutting it in such a way that I can have as few joins as possible and then these will be filled and sanded smooth before painting. At the rear end of the shed I have cut out the card to fit the footprint of the building.... ...and then I'm using strips to infill the centre and outside edges. At the front of the building I have cut the shape to fit, out to the end of the pit shoulders, as this will form the hardstanding/apron accross the front of the doors when it is built up : I have decided NOT to have the interchangeable stub pit idea after all, as although I thought it was a good idea......it just isn't feasible, it will now have rails permanently fitted. No 'P4' overhauls here then..... Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shedmaster Posted July 31, 2010 Author Share Posted July 31, 2010 Hi All, Just a few general pics for this evening.......not entirely sure about the Bachmann lifting jacks.......they seem too big somehow.....??? The interal floor is all cut and positioned, just needs gluing down.... The Class 60's seem at home here.... TTFN, Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted July 31, 2010 Share Posted July 31, 2010 Dave That looks great don't forget the building structure bottom needs to be at rail top height then you can add in the ramps around the door area. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shedmaster Posted August 1, 2010 Author Share Posted August 1, 2010 Dave That looks great don't forget the building structure bottom needs to be at rail top height then you can add in the ramps around the door area. Pete Hi Pete, No probs mate, there is another layer of plasticard still to go on top of what you see already. This will go from the front of the existing plasticard, through the door apertures to the start of the 'well', by the steps, and then the ramp down will be added....just as in the picture. Painting the white pits and yellow border will be interesting ! Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimleygrid Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 Hi Dave, Looking good Sir, I agree the 60 does look at home! You will soon be finished…. I had got it into my head that tile grout would be used for my concrete but after looking at the plastic sheets I am undecided! I am now thinking of using plastic sheets to build up the floor and then use the grout for the finishing touches. But that may change…. Did I notice the sheets were from the 4D Model shop? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shedmaster Posted August 2, 2010 Author Share Posted August 2, 2010 Hi Dave, Looking good Sir, I agree the 60 does look at home! You will soon be finished…. I had got it into my head that tile grout would be used for my concrete but after looking at the plastic sheets I am undecided! I am now thinking of using plastic sheets to build up the floor and then use the grout for the finishing touches. But that may change…. Did I notice the sheets were from the 4D Model shop? Hiya Mr Grimley, Thanks for the support.........however, what makes you think I'll be finished soon......still got the other shed to do yet and then the landscaping 'outside' ! I have used 2mm thick plasticard from 4D Models, which was bought in several 2ft x 1ft sheets so as to keep joins to a minimum. Between each sheet I will be using plasticweld to join them, as well as to join each sheet to the side of the pit mouldings. I will sand smooth any variances as this floor should really be totally flat. To glue the plasticard to the plywood baseboard top I'll be using Evo-Stick, but the stuff from Wilkinsons in a purple tube for half the price of the named brand, even though it is the same product. Any gaps or joins that are too big will be filled with milliput and then sanded smooth. Hope this helps ? Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shedmaster Posted August 3, 2010 Author Share Posted August 3, 2010 Hi again, I've been busy tonight ! Repeating all that I did last night..........before calmly walking away and leaving it ! Tonight, the process of fitting out the concrete apron was attempted again and I have had some success. I have started to cut out the bits of the apron that the building sits on : This corner of the building and it's opposite side will have to be cut to accommodate the structure at the correct level, so the actual brickwork will sit on the internal floor as it should. To enable certain 'proving' to be done, I found myself replacing the front rail sections with the final item, a yard of Code 75 flexi-track with about half the sleepers removed and then the 'loose' rails threaded into the pits. This was 'actually' to maintain the gauge through the pit shoulder extensions that go through the door apertures, so I could get the concrete apron infills cut to the right size. The white plasticard pieces you see in this next picture are not glued into place yet, as I still have to cut them back level with the bottom pit step and then file the sloping ramps into them and level and glue the main flooring sections !!! Now then........ Unfortunately, there IS a compromise. Because of the type of track in use, Peco Code 75, I have had to invoke 'modellers license' in the area where the rail passes through the apron. Taking into account the differences in clearance dimensions, of the variety of stock expected to use the depot, I have purposely left plenty of room around the rail areas for vehicles to pass without issue. I have also omitted the 'check rails' that pass through the door apertures.........if I had used 'proper' track, such as 'P4' I could have included this quite easily ! This excessive clearance has been tested with some of the lowest slung vehicles ( Snowplough and Class 33 ) and the chunkiest wheels ( Class 59/2 ). I've left it for tonight as it's gone well.......just some finishing tweaks and then it's out with the BIG bottle of Plasticweld ! Thats all for now, Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted August 4, 2010 Share Posted August 4, 2010 Looking good Dave. Shape as much as you can now as it's a lot easier than after you have glued it in place. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shedmaster Posted August 4, 2010 Author Share Posted August 4, 2010 Looking good Dave. Shape as much as you can now as it's a lot easier than after you have glued it in place. Pete Hi Peter, Good Morning, Mr Grimley Grid mentioned something on his Boxenby thread about 'being convinced' with how it is going to look........well, I'm honestly not convinced here just yet with my latest efforts, and so am trying to be clever and get everything into place and looking right, before committing with the glue. I could be working at this end of the shed for quite some time..........come and get me if I'm not back in two weeks please !!!! Ta, Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shedmaster Posted August 4, 2010 Author Share Posted August 4, 2010 Mmmmm, On referring back to my stock photo's.......... I think I'm too far away from this to get away with it....... Okay.......back to the drawing board and "Take Three" Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyddrail Posted August 4, 2010 Share Posted August 4, 2010 Dave, I don't like saying it, but I think you would regret not having the floor level with the rail head top. The buildings etc are out of this world, so the floor needs to be as close to right as possible within model/running constaints. Cheers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shedmaster Posted August 4, 2010 Author Share Posted August 4, 2010 Dave, I don't like saying it, but I think you would regret not having the floor level with the rail head top. The buildings etc are out of this world, so the floor needs to be as close to right as possible within model/running constaints. Cheers. Hi Paul, Thanks for the valued input, but you're definately right and this is why I won't move on until I've solved the issue. I've glued the main floor down tonight ( and nearly cocked it up proper ! ) before deciding to make some check rails and chamfer them accordingly, just as in the photo's. Then I will be resorting to using the filler to make the apron to the correct shapes, level with the rail height. I will also be filling between the check rails but luckily I don't have any filler at the mo and so am prevented from rushing into it, so I will have plenty of time to prepare instead. Funnily enough......I'll just be copying it exactly how it is in the puictures, shouldn't I be doing that anyway? LoL's Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
115johnb Posted August 5, 2010 Share Posted August 5, 2010 Hi, this is great, I have been toying with an idea in my head to have a small shed/refueling layout to shunt around my 20 odd fleet of BR Blue diesels and DMU's but after seeing this and the equely monstrous and impressive Boxenby by Grimleygrid I think I will forget it, whats the point after seeing these 2 projects!! Regarding the Bachmann Loco Jacks, would it not be better to search on Ebay for a couple of cheap non runners or older Lima locos to strip down to the bare minimum, possibly with thier hatches open, and glue the jacks on and pose them within the shed. I wonder which one of you will be first to get their respective layout featured in the modeling mags as surely both will feature at some point. Looking forward to seeing both completed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shedmaster Posted August 24, 2010 Author Share Posted August 24, 2010 Hello again, it's been a while I know....... 115johnb, thankyou VERY much for your kind comments. I'm not getting on too well with the flooring at the moment, but this has kept me going, persisting with the impossible ! ( Well, it's not really impossible, I just need to solve the problem...... ) Your idea for eBay non-runners is of course brilliant. I'm hoping to do some scenes with hatches open etc and could well use old Lima tat, because many of the bodyshells are accurate enough just for this. I'm thinking I wouldn't need the whole Loco in the picture ? ( No real offence to the Lima range intended, I'm well aware how exellently this stuff can run eventually ) I've been working to get the floor level and correct and it's quite difficult to do properly, lots of filling, filing and painting. As it's a long term project I can pooodle along, but I hope to be playing trains here sometime within the next thirty years ! To cheer me up a bit, we've had 09 019 into the workshops early, to prepare it for it's new role here at Battersea Stewarts Lane.... The Loco. is presented in ex-works condition as per the early years of this livery and has had various small details added, such as the axle-slip markers, silver side grills and front red crossbar to name a few bits.... Well, thats all the playing for now.........back to this wretched flooring Regards, Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
meld Posted August 24, 2010 Share Posted August 24, 2010 Well, thats all the playing for now.........back to this wretched flooring Regards, Dave Dave, I'm with Paul on this one, get the floor right. You have seem to have come to this conclusion yourselve and you know it's the only way to go I would also look at colouring the filler to get a basic shade of the concrete first when you lay it, that way any future damage through railhead cleaning and/or running of different manufactures wheels will either be less noticable and/or easier to repair with gentle washes rather that massive blocks of colour that are harder to match in to the rest of the area. Keep up the good work ... Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
meld Posted August 24, 2010 Share Posted August 24, 2010 Hi Mike, One Word.........HELP ? Regards, Dave Dave above all else KISS mate .. laters Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modfather Posted August 24, 2010 Share Posted August 24, 2010 Regarding your jack comments, they seem too wide between side members and the lifting plinth seems too chunky compared to a quick google for loco jacks...matterson ( BR approved type C1960 ) http://www.nvr.org.uk/groups/mechanical/656-053.jpg Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shedmaster Posted August 24, 2010 Author Share Posted August 24, 2010 Regarding your jack comments, they seem too wide between side members and the lifting plinth seems too chunky compared to a quick google for loco jacks...matterson ( BR approved type C1960 ) http://www.nvr.org.u...cal/656-053.jpg Hiya, I totally agree........the Bachy ones seem chunky to me, but then, they're not anything like the ones at Stew. Lane anyway. I won't be lifting 60's here after all, maybe 33's - but not if I don't get this floor sorted first....... Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
branchie Posted August 24, 2010 Share Posted August 24, 2010 A bit off topic, but wasn't Stewarts Lane on Masterchef last week? Nice modelling btw - keep perservering with the floor. You'll get it right eventually Branchie. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shedmaster Posted August 24, 2010 Author Share Posted August 24, 2010 A bit off topic, but wasn't Stewarts Lane on Masterchef last week? Nice modelling btw - keep perservering with the floor. You'll get it right eventually Branchie. Not at all Branchie, I saw that straight away.........and the week before, it was on Sherlock Holmes on BBC One as well !!! I had to get a 67 out from there a few weeks ago and was truly cursing the pra*tt who parked my Loco RIGHT under a scaffolding gantry - unbeknown to me at the time, used to get the 'looking down from the sky' camera shots........how the hell the previous Driver got out of it in the first place was amazing....... Anyways.......back to this floor...........if it isn't right then I'm wasting my time. I'm not happy at all with what I've achieved here for the floor and am seriously looking at the plastic U channel idea now, and then building up the rails onto this.........better get some chairs ordered in methinks ! So......can anybody tell me please.........what type of rails and chairs are these and where can I obtain them ? Any help appreciated, Thankyou, Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Hilton Posted August 25, 2010 Share Posted August 25, 2010 Bullhead rail - and associated chairs (I'm sure an expert will expand) available from (amongst others) Exactoscale (do a Google search) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium eldavo Posted August 25, 2010 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 25, 2010 The chairs look very similar to the 4-hole bridge chairs offered by Exactoscale. Cheers Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 45156 Posted August 25, 2010 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 25, 2010 Hi Dave While I'm housebound, I'm taking the opportunity to visit as many layout threads and blogs as I can, in the hope of getting some inspiration for my own. Whilst yours is not in my chosen era or traction type, I can certainly see why you would want to do this. Your sheer determination to get this as close to the prototype as possible is certainly to be admired - you seem to be keen to produce a model of a railway rather than a model railway, and to choose to do something as complex as an accurate model of a TMD is quite inspiring - I also visited your other site, so I have a good idea where you're coming from here. Good luck with getting the pits and associated trackwork right - I'm sure that the right solution to get the effect that you need will turn up soon. I'll pop back to see how you're progressing from time to time. Regards Stewart Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shedmaster Posted August 28, 2010 Author Share Posted August 28, 2010 Good Evening, After the recent disappointments here relating to the installation of the pits, I thought it would be a good idea to stop work and see what exactly I was doing wrong, and to help me, I enlisted the help of a good friend. On investigation, it would seem that putting it bluntly, the pits have simply been poorly installed.........notice that I'm not admitting to a total disaster, but things could have been done a lot better... Pits were installed straight and level so were generally okay in these respects. The gaps around the edge were filled with too much of the wrong type of filler and when sanded smooth, the chairs became damaged due to rushing and carelessness ! I'm just gonna have to take more time to do this job properly..... Fitting over-long rails stressed the chairs and clips causing breakages, so the rails inside the shed will in future be kept short and simple.....I'm hoping to use P4 fishplates from now on though. Constant removing and refitting the over-long rails caused damage due to heavy handedness. I have already rebuilt the stub road pit afresh ( with some help ) and will be fitting the rails and filling / painting BEFORE re-installation this time. After being shown how to do this in a more practical way, I will be refitting the remaining pits in the same revised way, that is to construct and paint off site BEFORE locating them in their final position. So, I'm going have another crack at the rest of it in due course...............watch this space ! Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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