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Hornby Class 67


TomE

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i had a look at the model earlier in trident trains, compared it to a photo i took of 67012 yesterday and it looks pretty damn close to me, compare the model to this.....

 

A86AFC4C-E8A3-4474-B80C-3124FE44818A-602-0000004740CCD64D.jpg

 

maybe the problem is comparing it to the lima model the new one has a correctly angled front whereas the lima one is virtually slab fronted........

 

0DB6528C-D439-41E7-A492-D285A91DB7A2-1412-0000018296E3F1E6.jpg

 

looking forward to getting mine on monday from hasligton models, T-cut at the ready to get the wrexham decals off, sound chip ready to fit too

 

I think that the verticality of the Lima front end is accentuated by the yellow panel 'wrap-around' being cut vertical rather than at the same angle as the sloping front.

 

To my eyes, Big Jim's image of the DBS prototype (where the wrap around is cut near vertical) gives the appearance of a flatter front.

 

For me it looks good, but wouldn't tempt me to trade in my Limby. As to retailers selling the old models off cheaply, I haven't seen these in stock anywhere for quite a while.

 

N

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I think that the verticality of the Lima front end is accentuated by the yellow panel 'wrap-around' being cut vertical rather than at the same angle as the sloping front.

 

here are the ex lima and Hornby offerings nose to nose in the same livery, not noticed the yellow on the old one incorrectly wraps wround until now!

 

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/s-type-driver/2012%20album/317A2DB3-FCB8-4BFE-A3F4-42CE0B660B72-2931-000002C19C4FB8D7.jpg

 

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/s-type-driver/2012%20album/24BAC274-952A-408C-886C-B1D3FD4D965A-2931-000002C1B3EDA223.jpg

 

all 3 new Hornby releases (001, 014, 018) need the remote fire fighting equipment buttons adding too

 

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/s-type-driver/2012%20album/1000EBE2-80E8-42F7-82FF-FFC29C6E9656-2931-000002C2AFF49473.jpg

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I wonder how many people will be merging the Old mouldings to the new model, there are parts of the Limby skip that are better than the new version, the bogies do look better, and as ive mentioned the front would need to be sorted out as well, the older model has the less pronounced angle of the front as well, the grill on the new model I think as well may need to be ripped out and re-fitted so it doesnt sit so high also

 

NL

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Some of these:

http://www.precision...ls.com/d67.html

might be worth getting as well , as Hornby dont appear to have printed the horn grilles correctly.

 

Jon

 

One on test with 'Legomanbiffo' for his updated 67 Sound Decoder, these should be available shortly (Pre-Fitted if required) via DC Kits (www.dckits-devideos.co.uk)

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I bought one of the W&S 67s on the weekend.

 

I am very impressed with it and am glad that I sold all three of my old Lima ones a good few years ago.

 

DCC chipping can be a bit hit and miss on some locos but I found the Hornby 67 probably the easiest. Just undo the 4 four screws (clearly marked on the instruction sheet)then the body simply lifts off with no fuss at all.

 

Less than a couple of minutes the loco has gone from standard DC to DCC equiped.

 

The pre-cut nameplates are also a real boon (although I haven't fitted them yet).

 

Even the box deserves a mention as it looks like Hornby have ditched the polystrene and gone for clear plastic, very similar to Bachmann. Staying with the box, there is a potted history of the Class on the sleeve, all in all very good.

 

I haven't yet been able to test the 67 over a long period of time. I gave the loco a good running in session and coupled up my only two W&S MK3s. The 67 has the same coupling system as their 60 which can be a little dodgy at times but the few minutes that I ran my new passenger train no problems were incurred.

 

In my opinion the new Hornby Class 67 is a very good model and worthy of a place in the 'Top 5' of diesel locos.

 

No opening doors either.

 

Cheers.

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as i have already mentioned i have sound chipped my 67....

 

i have fitted the chip under the cowl above the drive tower

 

the chip under the upturned cowl

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/s-type-driver/2012%20album/025248B0-48FC-4433-BD1D-10D8E0EC85E5-2085-00000225D81C037C.jpg

 

and back in place

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/s-type-driver/2012%20album/DF7ED6C1-BC8A-4237-BF59-0C2EEC339679-2085-00000225DC8BDF83.jpg

 

speaker cables running through the chassis towards the fuel tanks

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/s-type-driver/2012%20album/CCCFF075-FB31-48DD-AA57-C309E92D57E9-2085-00000225E0C6509A.jpg

 

bass enhanced speaker in the tanks, no real need for all the blacktak really!

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/s-type-driver/2012%20album/E203551D-38FF-4C68-BDE6-56D87813F977-2085-00000225E4E0C2D7.jpg

 

fitted back into place

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/s-type-driver/2012%20album/ABBB53A4-B2B4-4984-927E-75B089D3473B-2085-00000225E8F8CF14.jpg

 

 

 

and onto the nameplates, looks much better with the etched plates fitted

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/s-type-driver/2012%20album/48CB70AF-2380-4AE3-8995-441CE0B724FE-2085-00000225ECAA3A4A.jpg

 

however looking from above you can see the printed plates on the ribs!

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/s-type-driver/2012%20album/66CEBE93-12E9-4FAD-8654-DC20D6359509-2085-00000225F09CE689.jpg

 

dont know what Hornby have used to print the wrexham decals on with but they were a swine to get off, t-cut got a little bit off but i ended up fibreglass brushing them off

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/s-type-driver/2012%20album/3F810CA5-AA85-4913-AB57-E83DC1091323-2085-00000225F445D046.jpg

 

ended up getting them off and repainting the area with humbrol matt 67, a very close match, once lightly weathered it should look good

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/s-type-driver/2012%20album/0A01A2E0-2132-46D3-BA5A-A6ACC613333D-2085-00000225F8646D80.jpg

 

then i fitted the end detailing.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/s-type-driver/2012%20album/3C44C41A-62B3-4187-A809-EB69E1D53952-2085-000002297AE31047.jpg

 

one dissapointing thing is the coupling, you have a choice of either a hook or buckeye which slots into the coupling hook hole, however on the real thing when the coupling is used the buckeye swings to the side, Hornby haven't supplied a "locked" buckeye so i improvised one by fitting the hook then plastic welded the buckeye to it, not right but better than nothing

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/s-type-driver/2012%20album/F29D5F08-2643-4DDF-8DAA-7D9CF52503BB-2085-000002297F44F897.jpg

 

Bachmann's ews 66 has a locked buckeye fitted so may see if i can get one as a spare part (or remove one from another one of my models) and replace my improvised part

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as i mentioned in a previous post i feel the separate etch on the roof is sitting too high (in fact the fixing lugs are too long) if i could get it to sit a little bit lower i think it may improve the look of the transition between the main body and the cab

 

as it happened i worked 67012 earlier and while looking back at stourbridge i realised my eyeline was about level with the grille, compare how the real grille sits to the model pictures in the post above....

 

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/s-type-driver/2012%20album/44708802-1367-4D73-B6B5-F85CCAEF125C-1102-00000114581B8424_zpsb6b641d0.jpg

 

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/s-type-driver/2012%20album/30A7CD8D-1B75-4D83-BD96-11393867DFD4-1102-000001145BB9D305_zpsa406be04.jpg

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i have fitted the chip under the cowl above the drive tower

 

the chip under the upturned cowl

025248B0-48FC-4433-BD1D-10D8E0EC85E5-2085-00000225D81C037C.jpg

 

 

 

Hi Jim,

I notice that the main pcb is an 8-pin decoder socket - the pcb even has "no sound" printed on it. Seems strange that Hornby have fitted it with 8-pin, when the likes of Bachy are fitting 21 pin sockets (and pcb's) as standard, with an easy ability to add a speaker (SP+ SP- terminals).

 

What's the betting that the eventual release of factory sound fitted 67's, they have 21 pin pcb's.

 

I wonder if the 67 as supplied, is Hornby's stupid non-standard negative common for the cab lighting? (Just like the 31 and 60's)

 

Cheers,

Mick

 

Cheers,

Mick

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Problem regarding the etch on the roof sitting to high - well yesterday I took my 60 apart and realized that the fixing lugs were long but workers in the factory have made sure that it was pushed in completely and secured!! Can you try seeing if you can do that? Give it a shot and let us know. Because IMO that thing is just too high, not that I can live with that but it looks odd....And yes even I was going to ask, why does'nt Hornby use 21-pin decoders? Are 8-pins sufficient enough? I really should'nt bother because I don't want to add sound to them but just a general query because I want to add DCC chips to them!

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thing is i dont really fancy having to set to a brand new £100+ model with new bits (other than some brake disc insets), i'll see if i can do something with the existing etch when i get a chance

Hi Jim - Is it possible to break the glue and remove the roof grille from the body (without damaging either) - Hornby metal parts tend to have very thick paint on them , making them look much coarser than they often are (hornbys class 08 coupling rods , and HST roof grilles are a good example)

The existing grille may look much better if it was stripped back to bare metal and then airbrushed.

If you were going to add proper brake discs i think it would be well worth ditching the Hornby wheels as they look very odd - luckily Hornbys own plain coach wheels (which are the wrong size for any coach as far as I know) are just about the right size for the class 67 and have a more sensible profile to accept an etched disc. Plus they're cheap!

 

tfn

 

Jon

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im hoping that the grille just pulls off once the glue is broken, then with any luck it may sit lower when i refit it

 

i'm not messing about changing wheels etc, the intercity models etched discs look good, the only problem with them being they are for the even wronger lima model so may look odd once fitted, the alternative is to try again to paint the disc area silver on the existing wheels

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, the intercity models etched discs look good, the only problem with them being they are for the even wronger lima model so may look odd once fitted,

 

Are they just the wrong diameter then - I know ICM made the etched discs but have never actually seen them - did they correctly put the fixing bolts around the inner edge?

 

If you can make scaleforum i have some etches that may do the trick - though they are sized for the Hornby coach wheel.

 

tfn

 

Jon

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Hello All

 

Keenly noted previously that the discs look nothing like the Hurst 67 or the mk3 coach ones..

 

So, I've Railmatched the wheels then super glued the mk3 coach ones on wrong way up !

 

Sounds mad.

 

Think it sort of works. Crude pictures attached.

 

Regards

 

Nick post-1261-0-63731900-1348510498_thumb.jpg

post-1261-0-01142100-1348510532_thumb.jpg

post-1261-0-38681900-1348510571_thumb.jpg

post-1261-0-62497300-1348510599_thumb.jpg

post-1261-0-51937200-1348510627_thumb.jpg

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ive not seen the intercity models discs myself either, im just going by the pictures on page 5 of this thread, they fit the lima model nicely looking at the pics so i'd assume they wont be right for the new Hornby one

 

for the sake of a few quid i'll probably get some soon

 

rs4, not sure about those discs, too small, anything is better than nothing though!

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I had a few minutes spare at home earlier today that coincided with Mr Postie!

 

The roof grille on the EWS version looks to be sitting down more than the W&S release. I also gave the wheel sides a quick coat of silver paint before looking at fiiting seperate brake discs.

 

post-408-0-44871700-1348673074_thumb.jpg

The outer diameter of the raised side of the wheel looks OK for the brake disc, maybe the inner could do with reducing.

As this is a working loco, it will only be viewed from "normal distances", so will do for me.

 

Just for comparison, here's a real one.

 

post-408-0-65218800-1348673168_thumb.jpg

 

The disc mounting bolts aren't that prominent.

 

One thing that is obvious, is the inclination of the yellow as it wraps around the side.

 

If I get chance later tonight - it'll be meeting up with a set of Modelmaster numbers..................

 

Cheers,

Mick

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Modelmaster still do some EWS transfers but they have been discounting and selling off some of their range in recent weeks. Their numbers are for Class 66's but should still work on a 67.

 

My EWS example has just arrived and been unpacked and I found something unexpected that any renumberer will need to deal with, a strange rectagonal label of some kind reproduced in the No 2 nose end. What is it?

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My EWS example has just arrived and been unpacked and I found something unexpected that any renumberer will need to deal with, a strange rectagonal label of some kind reproduced in the No 2 nose end. What is it?

I was wondering this too when I unwrapped mine - looks like Pokemon or something on it ??.

 

jon

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Having now worked on it a little, I concur with the general opinion that the roof grille is definitely a lower better fit on the EWS example. The front end is where my attention has been this evening, I want the air dam below the buffer beam but use tension lock couplings so I have modified the fitting part with a cut out to allow the coupling to be used but retain a better look to the front end, surprised Hornby have not supplied alternate parts to do this really.

 

post-6910-0-33285400-1348682825_thumb.jpg

 

The orange coupling jumper socket (or whatever it is!) on the left of the air dam has no corresponding hole for it to push into, a bit of a boo-boo there, and the provision of althernative wide loop couplings is silly and pointless in an era when the narrow one should be standard at all times these days.

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