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Black Country Blues


Indomitable026

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And have you seen how much you'd have to pay to get one now?

 

http://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/ford/classics/ford-cortina-mk1-gt/1096683

 

 And Lotus' are in Ferrari territory...!! 

That looks like twin DCOE40s, or similar, so a far cry from the original motor. And the bumperettes on the front are a bit of a giveaway - no showroom car came like that. A lovely finish - but what can you get for £20k in new cars now? Something more practical - and a great deal cheaper to run.

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Back in about 67-68 when I was a teenager a mate of mine worked for a car repair shop close to the A12/A127 junction. His boss allowed him to use the workshop 'hack' a rather battered 2 door mk. 1 Cortina, one of the other employees had an accident that resulted in the entire nearside of said Cortina being ripped open from the door back. His boss said never mind we'll repair it when we get the next written off Cortina in the shop. This they did, only the donor car was a 4 door. Consequently we were driving about in the only door Cortina mk. 1.

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I'd say it's a tweaked X-Flow with twin Webber carbs on; not sure if they came with X-Flows as new though?

1760 x-flow on dellorto's - I had a Mk1 Mex with a very similar spec motor - it was a flyer, but did like a drink! Wish I still had it now. Never had a Cortina, but I think you're right, didn't they have 1500 pre-crossflows? But the ad for that car doesn't claim it to be restored as original.

 

And I'd much rather be running that GT or a Mk1 Mex or RS rather than my Focus, couldn't care less about practicality to be honest! Just a shame that the cheapest decent Escort is now worth about 4 times as much as said Focus...!!

 

Anyway, methinks I'm wandering a bit OT now...

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That's a bit of a hybrid, the genuine Lotus Mk 1 was rebuilt at the Lotus factory from production GT's (the Mk2's were built on the production line incorporating Lotus specified parts and never went anywhere near the Lotus factory) but the crossflow engine was introduced during the second year of Mk2 production.

 

The "bumperetts" formed an in joke against the proud Lotus owners being actually the rear quarter bumpers on the 307E Anglia van, So the first bit of a Lotus you saw was the back end of a van!

 

Wally

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Whilst awaiting the laser cut windows, I'm doing some last minute odds and ends on this building (and on Oldbury Road). This weekend I installed 2 bright white LEDs in the lab (labs are usually very well lit - you don't want to confuse your beaker of H2O with a beaker of H2SO4 :nono: ) - and the two LEDs illuminate the lab to such an extent that I am confident that, even under the lighting gantry of the BCB, the interiors (of both buildings) will be very visible.

 

iD

 

The office in Oldbury Road is also illuminated by a LED - again the interior should be visible even under the lighting gantry.

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Have you guys considered modelling parts of the cut in a drained state exposing the sides, the culverts, lock sluices, dumped shopping trolleys, crashed cars, feeding birds, wellington boots, bicycles and other rubbish, leaving the usual small stream running down the middle?  Its not something I have seen done before with canals on layouts and could make for something a little different.  Perhaps have it partially drained from the lower lock ?

 

Not sure if this is possible as far as baseboards and cross timbers are concerned.

 

Many a time walking to Saltley depot in Birmingham I remember seeing the Bham and Fazeley canal drained including the locks and that allowed you to see all the detailing thats usually below the water line.

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Ever since I played on BCB at Donny, I keep thinking about fitting AJs to my rolling stock.

 

Have you any hints and tips as to the best methods of folding, fitting and fettling these couplings ?

 

Ta

Stu

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I think the approach we're using on BCB (which we have also used, to a limited extent, on stock for New Haden) of having AJs where a vehicle needs to be uncoulpled and three links where they are not gives the best of both.  For three links I (now) use the Smiths products as (being slightly over size) they are easier to use than true scale couplings.

 

For anyone interested in AJs, Manchester Model Railway Society's website has several pages of useful info here as is the book on the subject available through the Scalefour Society stores (membership not required).  There are a number of jigs available which take the guess-work out of forming and installing the couplings and I think these are key to successful operation.  The one I use to form the couplings came from EMGS - these are normally available to members only, unless attending one of the ExpoEM events (next one is Bracknell in May, I'm there with Foundry Lane).  Scalefour Society also supply several useful jigs in theire e-shop here, including the Palatine Models jigs and hinge mounts.  I find the mounting jig which I showed in this blog entry to be particularly useful.

 

A word of caution to those not working in EM or P4 (as apparently some people do); I understand the amount of side play caused by the generous tolerances in 00 can cause AJs to become uncoupled - probably worth trying one or two wagons before launching into a mass conversion of stock!

 

Next time I'm doing some I'll take some step-by-step photos if that would be useful?

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I think the approach we're using on BCB (which we have also used, to a limited extent, on stock for New Haden) of having AJs where a vehicle needs to be uncoulpled and three links where they are not gives the best of both.  For three links I (now) use the Smiths products as (being slightly over size) they are easier to use than true scale couplings.

 

For anyone interested in AJs, Manchester Model Railway Society's website has several pages of useful info here as is the book on the subject available through the Scalefour Society stores (membership not required).  There are a number of jigs available which take the guess-work out of forming and installing the couplings and I think these are key to successful operation.  The one I use to form the couplings came from EMGS - these are normally available to members only, unless attending one of the ExpoEM events (next one is Bracknell in May, I'm there with Foundry Lane).  Scalefour Society also supply several useful jigs in theire e-shop here, including the Palatine Models jigs and hinge mounts.  I find the mounting jig which I showed in this blog entry to be particularly useful.

 

A word of caution to those not working in EM or P4 (as apparently some people do); I understand the amount of side play caused by the generous tolerances in 00 can cause AJs to become uncoupled - probably worth trying one or two wagons before launching into a mass conversion of stock!

 

Next time I'm doing some I'll take some step-by-step photos if that would be useful?

 

 

good answer, i was going to say "just don't".......

 

only kidding !!

 

A

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Thanks gents,

As a full time OO gauge modeller, I take on board your words of caution.

 

Another question springs to mind - is it possible to fit AJs into NEM pockets ? I understand there is a lever action required to allow the two ends to uncouple using the downward motion of a magnet, but could this be incorporated into a pocket ?

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The canal junction board is now back with OG for work on the rear side of the canal tunnel after I've been faffing about with the canal surface. The card used before Doncaster was a bit too flimsy but at least it provided a template when it was ripped out for the replacement mounting board.

 

The colouration is a mixture of sprayed acrylics with a slightly lighter edge to the shallow sides of the canal and a slight darekning to the deeper water in the centre.

 

I had a couple of disasters with my usual alternate layers of PVA and varnish which resulted in green crazy paving for a canal. A hasty resurfacing yesterday with Woodland Scenics' Realistic Water salvaged the situation a little but it could really do with another pouring to level out some of the minor undulations (ripples are fine, subsidence inside the tunnel isn't!) but I've now taken it too close to the level of wagonbasher's cast edging so it needs another tweaking (probably after Ally Pally) but for now I've let that board move on and the next one will be the sidings/signalbox board with it's long length between the locks to do all in one go. Next time I'll make sure it's on a really level surface as the gloopy glaze does have a habit of wandering as it settles.

 

Canal3.jpg

 

Canal2.jpg

 

Nigel (avonside1563) advised me tonight that I'd plonked the reeds (placed to hide some scarring) in the one place they probably wouldn't have grown with the boats churning the water as they navigate the junction. Taking it to this stage has caused subsequent deliberations about the final placement of the roving bridge, we'll just do a mock up and test in different spots for Ally Pally to see what looks best as I wouldn't want it to obscure OG's fine bridge.

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That looks great Andy. The shade of the water is very good, I think, especially in the last shot. Nice to see your cottages given a bit more justice!

 

The green crazy-paving sounds interesting!  I know that sinking feeling when something goes seriously bananas. Maybe we need a "document your disasters" thread  :jester:

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