Wright writes.....

[Tony Wright]

Hello Tony

 

The V2 looks nice but I would have modified the valve gear so its in forward gear - but them I'm very pedantic about some things. Not that all my locos are so as I didn't build them like this many years ago. I would also have fitted a better shaped vacuum pipe or reshaped it.

 

I'm building a Nucast D2 at the moment which has a strange arrangement for the front frames under the footplate - which is a solid casting that sits above and moves with the bogie but it seems to work on test running of the chassis. The castings are quite poor in places and require a lot of work, eg the vacuum pipe along the right hand valence had to be removed as the gap between it and the footplate was half filled with flash and that couldn't be removed without damage to both the pipe and the footplate edge, the splasher and tenders sides are pitted in places and the boiler of course needed all the boiler bands removed - I do that anyway regardless now. I'll be fitting a LRM chimney. No 28 hour build time for this - I don't think I could manage any loco kit in that time!

 

Keep up the good work.

 

Andrew 

Thanks Andrew,

 

With regard to valve gear, I usually configure it to be in mid-gear (which Comet more or less suggests). When you say 'forward gear', what do you mean? Starting off in full forward gear, say, on leaving a station? That way the radius rod's pivot would be right down in the die-block, with a pronounced 'V' present. Or, running under easy steam at some speed (as would most southbound expresses be doing through LB), where they're almost in mid-gear anyway? Or, somewhere in between? And, what about reversing movements on and off shed for instance? No, 28 hours is enough of a build-time for me without going to such finesse. One friend did actually make his valve gear 'workable' on a loco. One removed the cab roof (to give access to the reverser) and then, by means of turning a sort of screw arrangements, the pivot point in the radius rod could be moved up or down. His output was one loco every two or three years! No thanks.

 

The vacuum standpipe is a lost-wax item from LRM.  

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Tony Wright]

What aspects in particular had you in mind? ...... or is it simply the polishing many like to show it off to its best in the raw but which should has little to no impact on the painted loco?

I think it's the case of the camera revealing things which the naked eye dismisses, Tim.

 

If you enlarge the pictures, some of my soldering is less than neat and perfect, there are scuff marks present and a lot of flux residue. Granted, when Geoff Haynes gives it a thorough scrub before he paints it, the flux grot will disappear. 

 

Priming will also reveal some previously unforeseen horrors, especially on white metal. Pitting, scuff marks and detritus in corners are often hideously-highlighted after the primer has gone on. 

 

I think part of my reason for mentioning less-than-perfect building is to illustrate that, no matter how much experience one has, there'll still be aspects of a model's construction where 'could do better' might be on the report. As you know, my principal motivation in showing models I've made is to encourage folk to have a go themselves. I try to suggest to them - don't be daunted, it's more important to try, and don't be put off if things are not perfect - they never are. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Tony Wright]

Tony the V2 captures the look of the locos. I have been building a Martin Finney Version for a number of years, tender completedimage.jpg

But the body and chassis to the loco not very far along. Your photo above really does show the boiler and the rise to the back plate of the fire box well. I was always concerned with the way the boiler was designed in my kit. Your convinces me it is right ( or should that be Wright?) I think the tender alone took me over 28hrs. I am moving forward on a Martin Finney A4 tender at the moment so the V2 is sitting in the queue of kits to be finished off. I have a bit of a thing of getting started kits finished. Ok the A4 tender started before the V2... and there are a list of other things to finish as well.... it has slowed me buying more kits to build and I have more things finished working this way so this way of modelling works for me!

Doug,

 

I'm sure your Finney V2 will be in a different league from mine (any of mine).

 

Martin once asked me why I never built his kits. My answer was two-fold. For one, I thought some parts were over-complicated (fabricating crossheads from flat etches for instance) and, two, commensurate with that, they would take me far too long to build (assuming I could build them, which isn't a given) and, thus, be beyond the prices my customers were prepared to pay. 

 

He pointed out, quite rightly, that, in terms of the time/cost equation (Finney kits costing considerably more than the sorts I build), his represented outstanding value for money; in that one got far more hours' enjoyment in building one of his kits than one which was cheaper. Fine for the guy/girl who's building it for themselves, but not for the likes of a pro' builder like me. Unless, of course, your name was John Hayes, but he was in a totally different class from me. 

 

I look forward to seeing your Finney V2 completed. Just one thing, I'd have removed those little parts from the footplate jig before I used it. Easier when it's still in the flat.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[DougN]

Ah Tony the reason why I leave there attached as long as possible is, they are really hard to lose if their still attached! Your comments above are all true, the finney kits are for the journey not necessarily the destination! I enjoy the challange of the kits. As the last couple of locos I actually timed the Dave bradwell Q6 took about 200 hours and the high level kits black hawthorn was about 60 hours. The couple of tenders of the V2 and the A4's are about 30 to 40 hours to build. The nice thing is generally all the parts are there and they really do fit beautifully. Could these be built professionally at reasonable costs definitely not if you want to eat! Years ago I did build a LNER Garrett which I completed in about 60 hours... and this was for a commission. I didn't enjoy it much and the guy did pay me he was over the moon with how it looked and ran.

 

Any how I should get back on with the A4 tender! More photos to come in the future!

[grahame]

Ah Tony the reason why I leave there attached as long as possible is, they are really hard to lose if their still attached! 

 

. . .  apart from if you loose what they are attached to. 

 

G.

[Michael Edge]

Doug,

 

I'm sure your Finney V2 will be in a different league from mine (any of mine).

 

Martin once asked me why I never built his kits. My answer was two-fold. For one, I thought some parts were over-complicated (fabricating crossheads from flat etches for instance) and, two, commensurate with that, they would take me far too long to build (assuming I could build them, which isn't a given) and, thus, be beyond the prices my customers were prepared to pay. 

 

He pointed out, quite rightly, that, in terms of the time/cost equation (Finney kits costing considerably more than the sorts I build), his represented outstanding value for money; in that one got far more hours' enjoyment in building one of his kits than one which was cheaper. Fine for the guy/girl who's building it for themselves, but not for the likes of a pro' builder like me. Unless, of course, your name was John Hayes, but he was in a totally different class from me. 

 

I look forward to seeing your Finney V2 completed. Just one thing, I'd have removed those little parts from the footplate jig before I used it. Easier when it's still in the flat.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

But in that case you would have lost all reference to what they are - there are no numbers on the etch and you have to search all over a drawing (with numbers scattered at random) to identify anything. 

[Woodcock29]

Thanks Andrew,

 

With regard to valve gear, I usually configure it to be in mid-gear (which Comet more or less suggests). When you say 'forward gear', what do you mean? Starting off in full forward gear, say, on leaving a station? That way the radius rod's pivot would be right down in the die-block, with a pronounced 'V' present. Or, running under easy steam at some speed (as would most southbound expresses be doing through LB), where they're almost in mid-gear anyway? Or, somewhere in between? And, what about reversing movements on and off shed for instance? No, 28 hours is enough of a build-time for me without going to such finesse. One friend did actually make his valve gear 'workable' on a loco. One removed the cab roof (to give access to the reverser) and then, by means of turning a sort of screw arrangements, the pivot point in the radius rod could be moved up or down. His output was one loco every two or three years! No thanks.

 

The vacuum standpipe is a lost-wax item from LRM.  

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Tony

 

When I say forward gear I mean somewhere between almost mid gear and half way to full forward gear. In your case you could get away with almost in mid gear. Your locos with outside Walschaerts don't come on and off shed so not being in reverse generally wouldn't be a problem unless for example, an O1 or O2 came through tender first on a goods. Also any locos you use for shunting would generally have inside valve gear.

 

On my LNER Garratt I built the front unit in forward but almost mid gear and the bunker unit slightly in reverse.

 

I would still reshape the vacuum standpipe which of course is not so easy for a lost-wax item (I have broken such items doing this - but you can always solder them together!) or use a w/m one, which of course is far more at risk of breakage. Appearance to me is more important than robustness in this instance. 

 

Regards

 

Andrew

[Killybegs]

But in that case you would have lost all reference to what they are - there are no numbers on the etch and you have to search all over a drawing (with numbers scattered at random) to identify anything. 

 

I put them in those tiny ziplock bags that a lot of our modelling bits and pieces come in (I never throw them away) with a bag for each group of components.

[Tony Wright]

I've not long returned from a most interesting visit to see Clive Mortimer, and have a go at running his railway. 

 

What an interesting plan - a terminus to two fiddle yards and a roundy-roundy as well. The running is excellent (apart from the 'human factor') and I look forward to seeing its development.

 

What a fascinating selection of scratch-built diesel locos. Amazing! Really inventive, really personal and what I call real modelling.

 

Thanks Clive for a lovely day. 

[Arun Sharma]

But in that case you would have lost all reference to what they are - there are no numbers on the etch and you have to search all over a drawing (with numbers scattered at random) to identify anything. 

Mike - I recall meeting someone who had a set of little wooden compartments mounted on a board that were labelled and he would religiously [perhaps, obsessively] dismember castings from sprues and small etched bits from frets and put them into their own compartment! I believe these were originally manufactured as containers used by typesetters.

 

But I agree, it is a lot of work - especially if you drop the board!

[Michael Edge]

I put them in those tiny ziplock bags that a lot of our modelling bits and pieces come in (I never throw them away) with a bag for each group of components.

 

You'll need a awful lot of bags for most of the Finney kits.

[Steamport Southport]

You'll need a awful lot of bags for most of the Finney kits.

 

You can buy them cheaply in places like Home And Bargain. Something like 100 for a pound.

 

But expect to get strange looks as drug dealers buy them. 

 

 

Jason

[Bucoops]

We use them at work, I occasionally borrow a few for this kind of thing.

[chris p bacon]

But expect to get strange looks as drug dealers buy them. 

 

 

Jason

 

 

We use them at work.

 

 

Just what sort of 'work' is funding your hobby.....

[Mallard60022]

You can buy them cheaply in places like Home And Bargain. Something like 100 for a pound.

 

But expect to get strange looks as drug dealers buy them. 

 

 

Jason

 

They actually buy them? Blimey, that's honest.

P 

[Bucoops]

Just what sort of 'work' is funding your hobby.....

 

Asbestos samples go in them. Although we did re-use a sim today for a new staff member and going by the texts that came in it looks like previous user of that number may have been using them for something else entirely that WOULD cause raised eyebrows.

[Steamport Southport]

They actually buy them? Blimey, that's honest.

P 

 

To be honest I don't think many of them want to get done for shoplifting them. Most of them try to keep a low profile nowadays. They know as long as they aren't doing it on an industrial scale the police are going to leave them alone.

 

 

Jason

[Clive Mortimore]

I've not long returned from a most interesting visit to see Clive Mortimer, and have a go at running his railway. 

 

What an interesting plan - a terminus to two fiddle yards and a roundy-roundy as well. The running is excellent (apart from the 'human factor') and I look forward to seeing its development.

 

What a fascinating selection of scratch-built diesel locos. Amazing! Really inventive, really personal and what I call real modelling.

 

Thanks Clive for a lovely day. 

Thank you Tony

 

It was lovely to see you and Mo today. I hope you found something interesting in Horncastle on your way home.

 

Lunch might have been a bit better had I remembered to get the salad out the fridge.

[Tony Wright]

Thank you Tony

 

It was lovely to see you and Mo today. I hope you found something interesting in Horncastle on your way home.

 

Lunch might have been a bit better had I remembered to get the salad out the fridge.

Lunch was excellent, Clive,

 

Many thanks again. 

 

Next time I visit, may I take some pictures of your layout, please? The next time you come over here, please bring that marvellous scratch-built crane of yours. I'd love to take its picture sitting in a siding on LB. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Edited January 8, 2019 by Tony Wright

[Tony Wright]

Mike - I recall meeting someone who had a set of little wooden compartments mounted on a board that were labelled and he would religiously [perhaps, obsessively] dismember castings from sprues and small etched bits from frets and put them into their own compartment! I believe these were originally manufactured as containers used by typesetters.

 

But I agree, it is a lot of work - especially if you drop the board!

Years ago, BRM gave out some little plastic boxes with various compartments in them. The lid could be snapped-shut. 

 

I use these when I'm building a loco/carriage - I just put related smaller items in the compartments and proceed from there. The trick (if it is a trick) is to complete each model quickly. Leaving things un-made for weeks, months or years usually results in my forgetting what and which goes where! 

[Clive Mortimore]

Lunch was excellent, Clive,

 

Many thanks again. 

 

Next time I visit, may I take some pictures of your layout, please? The next time you come over here, please bring that marvellous scratch-built crane of yours. I'd love to take its picture sitting in a siding on LB. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Hello Tony

 

I will do.

 

Thanks

[Clive Mortimore]

Years ago, BRM gave out some little plastic boxes with various compartments in them. The lid could be snapped-shut. 

 

I use these when I'm building a loco/carriage - I just put related smaller items in the compartments and proceed from there. The trick (if it is a trick) is to complete each model quickly. Leaving things un-made for weeks, months or years usually results in my forgetting what and which goes where! 

So where is the fun in that, you can make a model in just over 25 plus hours. I can spend twice as long looking for the rest of it but in doing so find the bits to the model I gave up working on three months ago.

[RThompson]

When I was 14 onwards for a number of years I used complete locos from south eastern fine cast and DJH within 3 days, these days locos have literally been on the go for years and still not completed except for a couple of my own.

 

I suppose time factor is one of those things (hence why I'm taking a break from RT Models atm) but also some of the kits I'm building are more complicated or have serious errors so have to modify the parts.

 

I did make a start on my first Judith edge kit of the consett A class 0-6-0PT, a doddle to put together but because of problems on the railways, I was called upon for my services so this has been put aside.

 

The last few days I've been designing a industrial wagon kit with its very unusual and being fully etched as once again, I've not had the time to do it so thought I will crack on with this first as well as other kits and parts.

[Michael Edge]

You can buy them cheaply in places like Home And Bargain. Something like 100 for a pound.

 

But expect to get strange looks as drug dealers buy them. 

 

 

Jason

We buy these from Rymans in Castleford and until recently they were kept behind the counter, presumably for this reason.

[grahame]

These days most parts of a kit come in little zip-lock plastic bags, usually several. No need to buy them just save those. The more kits you make the more bags you'll end up with. I've got a nice big selection of different sized ones - I keep them all in a larger bag.   

 

Now where did I put that bag.

 

G.