Wright writes.....

[Tony Wright]

Good Morning Tony,

 

I was wondering if I could draw on your knowledge and the group as a whole please?

 

Work on my LRM J3 continues at a staggeringly slow pace, however, to all intents and purposes it is virtually complete, except for minor detailing.

 

I have finished the Stirling tender, and I have to admit I am rather pleased with it, however, the problem I have is that there is very very limited space for a coupling, as hopefully you can see in the images. I like the sprung coupling that you advocate, but when the loco chassis is in place, I don't think there is space for such an arrangement. Should I just go for a fixed coupling, and accept a slightly larger gap between tender and loco, or is there another coupling solution?

 

Many thanks in anticipation.

 

 

 

 

There's some very neat workmanship there Tom. My compliments.

 

I don't think there is enough space to fit a sprung drawbar. 

 

I've built several LRM locos/tenders and always arrange the loco-to-tender coupling arrangement like this............

 

 

 

The centre of the 'goalpost' can be pushed in slightly to give closer coupling on the straight. This method also allows weight from the front of the tender to be applied to the rear of the loco - essential in 4-4-0s (which this one is).

 

 

Because this particular loco was to run on a system which had dead-frog crossings, I arranged tender pick-ups. In this view the loco and tender are not actually coupled together, so the distance between the two is not too great when they are. Any 'unsightly' coupling disappears beneath a fall-plate.

 

 

 

How close the pair can be is illustrated by the completed D2 (painted by Ian Rathbone) running light engine on Grantham.

 

 

 

For those who use RTR locos, I shorten the drawbar like this. This is a Bachmann two-position arrangement on its A2. If left as supplied, the wider position requires a Greg Rutherford as fireman and the shorter position won't allow the loco round (even generous) curves.

 

All these tricks and dodges are included in my current Crowood book. 

 

I hope this helps. 

[grob1234]

Tony, thank you, that's brilliant...

 

Did you hear the loud clunk? That was the penny dropping! Your solution is as elegant as it is simple - why is it such a simple solution eluded my brain?! 

 

The soldering Iron is still warm from completing the interiors of my SJ set, so I will promptly fire it up again, and do the coupling for the J3.

 

Looks like I'll be treating myself to a copy of your book as well, just to make sure - it's entitled 'Modelling the East Coast Mainline'?

 

Many thanks,

Tom

[Mike 84C]

Special Auction Services of Newbury have an auction of railway stuff which includes some quite nice kit built GC and GN locos and stock which may be of interest to some of the posters on here. Auction is 3 Aug but the online catalogue is easily accessed. Usual disclaimers! 

      Mick

[jwealleans]

Expect to see those on Ebay in fairly rapid order after the sale, if my following of their catalogues is any indicator. I'd even take a punt on the putative seller.

[Tony Wright]

Tony, thank you, that's brilliant...

 

Did you hear the loud clunk? That was the penny dropping! Your solution is as elegant as it is simple - why is it such a simple solution eluded my brain?! 

 

The soldering Iron is still warm from completing the interiors of my SJ set, so I will promptly fire it up again, and do the coupling for the J3.

 

Looks like I'll be treating myself to a copy of your book as well, just to make sure - it's entitled 'Modelling the East Coast Mainline'?

 

Many thanks,

Tom

Thanks Tom,

 

I doubt if it could be called 'my' solution, because I'll have plagiarised it from someone else. I don't think I've ever found a solution to a problem for which I could take credit. 

 

The book is Modelling the East Coast Main Line in the British Railways Era, published by Crowood Press, ISBN: 978-1-78500-316-5

[davidw]

Thanks Tom,

 

I doubt if it could be called 'my' solution, because I'll have plagiarised it from someone else. I don't think I've ever found a solution to a problem for which I could take credit.

 

The book is Modelling the East Coast Main Line in the British Railways Era, published by Crowood Press, ISBN: 978-1-78500-316-5

Mine arrived today. Not had much time to look at it yet.

[46444]

 

DSC_0268.JPG

 

Whilst waiting for the A1's patch-painting to dry, I've had a go today at this Hornby D49 'Hunt' conversion to a 'Shire'. It's coupled to a Bachmann D11 tender and just needs the cylinder drain cocks fitted, before I'll paint it into BR lined black. It's a project for BRM and will be written up in due course. The finished thing will be on display on my demonstration stand at Doncaster (as will the A1).

Hi Tony,

 

Bit of a resurrection but can you tell me where the front steps and smokebox door came from on your Shire conversion?

 

I'm detailing/repainting an Hornby 'Cotswold' to 'Fitzwilliam as per your's and Larry's locomotives.

 

Lovely model of a class of locos much needing a modern up to date replacement.

 

Thanks,

 

Mark

Edited August 1, 2017 by 46444

[grob1234]

Thanks Tom,

 

I doubt if it could be called 'my' solution, because I'll have plagiarised it from someone else. I don't think I've ever found a solution to a problem for which I could take credit. 

 

The book is Modelling the East Coast Main Line in the British Railways Era, published by Crowood Press, ISBN: 978-1-78500-316-5

 

Nor me, yet I am determined to do so. Perhaps I need to create the problem first?

 

Promptly ordered, that'll be my gift to myself for my time in the UK!

[Markeg]

Ordered mine last night Australian time.

 

I see it is now on its way.  Looking forward to it.  Shame I can not get the authors signature in it.

 

Mark in Oz

[Daddyman]

Good Morning Tony,

 

I was wondering if I could draw on your knowledge and the group as a whole please?

 

Work on my LRM J3 continues at a staggeringly slow pace, however, to all intents and purposes it is virtually complete, except for minor detailing.

 

I have finished the Stirling tender, and I have to admit I am rather pleased with it, however, the problem I have is that there is very very limited space for a coupling, as hopefully you can see in the images. I like the sprung coupling that you advocate, but when the loco chassis is in place, I don't think there is space for such an arrangement. Should I just go for a fixed coupling, and accept a slightly larger gap between tender and loco, or is there another coupling solution?

 

Many thanks in anticipation

 

That's a very neat build. Just one thing, though: I don't know GN tenders but that protrusion below the axleboxes looks odd. I suspect either the 'box castings are mounted too high, or part of the etch needs to be removed - or possibly folded up to form the keeps? 

 

Hi Tony,

 

Bit of a resurrection but can you tell me where the front steps came from on your Shire conversion?

 

 

Mark 

I got mine from the spare parts bags that Hornby produce for one of their LNER locos - can't remember if it was B1 or L1. If you get the LNER ones, they come ready-lined. 

[jacko]

Got an Amazon voucher for my birthday so that's Tony's book ordered. Looking forward to a good read with hopefully, loads of useful advice.

 

Graeme

[grob1234]

That's a very neat build. Just one thing, though: I don't know GN tenders but that protrusion below the axleboxes looks odd. I suspect either the 'box castings are mounted too high, or part of the etch needs to be removed - or possibly folded up to form the keeps? 

 

 

Thanks for the observations regarding the axle boxes. I've had a look at photos and there is definitely a protrusion below the axle box, however, I think you might be right that the axle boxes may be a bit too high. I'll revisit the tender and instructions and see if I can modify it, as it's only held with super glue.

[gr.king]

The lower half of each frame projection below the axlebox is a half-etched strip with a couple of bolt/rivet heads portrayed on the inner face. Each strip folds out and up, to add a layer plus visible fixings to the (then) reduced width strip (the keep) below the axle box. I hope you can see in the image below.

Edited August 1, 2017 by gr.king

[grob1234]

Ah I see, thank you Mr King. For once an easy fix for me! 

[Enterprisingwestern]

Got an Amazon voucher for my birthday so that's Tony's book ordered. Looking forward to a good read with hopefully, loads of useful advice.

 

Graeme

 

Well, if all else fails, you can prop one of the layout legs up with it!!

 

Mike.

[Tony Wright]

Hi Tony,

 

Bit of a resurrection but can you tell me where the front steps and smokebox door came from on your Shire conversion?

 

I'm detailing/repainting an Hornby 'Cotswold' to 'Fitzwilliam as per your's and Larry's locomotives.

 

Lovely model of a class of locos much needing a modern up to date replacement.

 

Thanks,

 

Mark

Mark,

 

I'm afraid I can't actually remember the source of the steps or the smokebox door, other than they came from my scrap box. 

 

I have all sorts of bits and pieces as spares, many bought years ago from the likes of EAMES of Reading. They used to sell brass steps (bent to shape from flat brass) and a whole range of Jamieson smokebox doors. 

 

I'll see what I can find. Please PM me with your details.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Tony Wright]

This post is more of a question for model-makers, if I may? 

 

No matter how hard I try, my work bench always ends up in a state of chaos and a complete mess.

 

 

All I've done is just take a snapshot a few minutes ago, and this is my workbench. My question is, does anyone else build models in such chaotic surroundings?

 

Having completed five locos last month, with a sixth on the way (the DJH A2 under construction will be SUGAR PALM), it makes me wonder how many more might be built if the place were not in such a mess. 

 

[The Stationmaster]

Expect to see those on Ebay in fairly rapid order after the sale, if my following of their catalogues is any indicator. I'd even take a punt on the putative seller.

 

If you're thinking of whom I'm thinking he beat me in the bidding for a job lot of kits a few years ago, mainly because I wan't prepared to pay very silly prices for half-a-dozen kits I didn't want in order to get hold of two I did want, and of which the excellent Cotswold mouldings were still wrapped in their original tissue paper.  This of course, and regrettably, is where the dealer/Ebay shark scores because he is buying for profit and does really care what's in the boxes.

 

As it happens I made him pay a higher price than he would have liked for the lot by bidding him up to £250 but he then resold one of the kits that I was interested for £150 on Ebay and of those I followed he netted about £1,000.   Not an easy ride for someone looking for kits at sensible prices alas when you're up against that sort of buyer/Ebay seller.  Auctions buys can work out well but sometimes the competition can be too silly to make sense so it always pays to look and cross your fingers.

Edited August 1, 2017 by The Stationmaster

[cctransuk]

If you're thinking of whom I'm thinking he beat me in the bidding for a job lot of kits a few years ago, mainly because I wan't prepared to pay very silly prices for half-a-dozen kits I didn't want in order to get hold of two I did want, and of which the excellent Cotswold mouldings were still wrapped in their original tissue paper.  This of course, and regrettably, is where the dealer/Ebay shark scores because he is buying for profit and does really care what's in the boxes.

 

As it happens I made him pay a higher price than he would have liked for the lot by bidding him up to £250 but he then resold one of the kits that I was interested for £150 on Ebay and of those I followed he netted about £1,000.   Not an easy ride for someone looking for kits at sensible prices alas when you're up against that sort of buyer/Ebay seller.  Auctions buys can work out well but sometimes the competition can be too silly to make sense so it always pays to look and cross your fingers.

 

If he netted £1000+ for a £250 investment, you could have done the same, kept the items you wanted, and sold on the rest. There was, with hindsight, plenty of room to bid him up further.

 

The dealer takes a risk based on his past experience - we can all do the same if we have a little capital and can be bothered to make the effort required.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

[micknich2003]

Tony, this is what is called workbench, and you will know, I did finish the signal.

[Enterprisingwestern]

If you're thinking of whom I'm thinking he beat me in the bidding for a job lot of kits a few years ago, mainly because I wan't prepared to pay very silly prices for half-a-dozen kits I didn't want in order to get hold of two I did want, and of which the excellent Cotswold mouldings were still wrapped in their original tissue paper.  This of course, and regrettably, is where the dealer/Ebay shark scores because he is buying for profit and does really care what's in the boxes.

 

As it happens I made him pay a higher price than he would have liked for the lot by bidding him up to £250 but he then resold one of the kits that I was interested for £150 on Ebay and of those I followed he netted about £1,000.   Not an easy ride for someone looking for kits at sensible prices alas when you're up against that sort of buyer/Ebay seller.  Auctions buys can work out well but sometimes the competition can be too silly to make sense so it always pays to look and cross your fingers.

 

 

If he netted £1000+ for a £250 investment, you could have done the same, kept the items you wanted, and sold on the rest. There was, with hindsight, plenty of room to bid him up further.

 

The dealer takes a risk based on his past experience - we can all do the same if we have a little capital and can be bothered to make the effort required.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

 

The problem is, an extra finger in the pie pushes up the prices for the true enthusiast.

That's the problem with living in a free economy!

 

Mike.

[ArthurK]

This post is more of a question for model-makers, if I may? 

 

No matter how hard I try, my work bench always ends up in a state of chaos and a complete mess.

 

work bench.jpg

 

All I've done is just take a snapshot a few minutes ago, and this is my workbench. My question is, does anyone else build models in such chaotic surroundings?

 

Having completed five locos last month, with a sixth on the way (the DJH A2 under construction will be SUGAR PALM), it makes me wonder how many more might be built if the place were not in such a mess. 

 

One word - YES

 

Oh and I forgot the workspace shrinks until there is only just the very minimum space in which it is possible to do anything at all!

 

ArthurK

Edited August 1, 2017 by ArthurK

[Northroader]

I like to work sitting down, rather than standing up, and as my "workbench" is a commercial shelf unit, its too high, so it acts as somewhere to put tools and materials, and the actual work is done on a square of ply in my lap. I'm away from home, otherwise I'd do a photo to scandalise you.

[Ray Chessum]

This post is more of a question for model-makers, if I may? 

 

No matter how hard I try, my work bench always ends up in a state of chaos and a complete mess.

 

work bench.jpg

 

All I've done is just take a snapshot a few minutes ago, and this is my workbench. My question is, does anyone else build models in such chaotic surroundings?

 

Having completed five locos last month, with a sixth on the way (the DJH A2 under construction will be SUGAR PALM), it makes me wonder how many more might be built if the place were not in such a mess. 

 

Tony,

           If you think that is untidy you should see mine!

                                                                                      regards,

 

                                                                                                       Ray

[chris p bacon]

If he netted £1000+ for a £250 investment, you could have done the same, kept the items you wanted, and sold on the rest. There was, with hindsight, plenty of room to bid him up further.

 

The dealer takes a risk based on his past experience - we can all do the same if we have a little capital and can be bothered to make the effort required.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

 

Having attended many auctions (work and hobby) it doesn't work like that.  Mike went to £250 so that was where the competition stopped, had he continued he may have found the other chap was willing to go to £700+ as there was obviously profit in it.

  I've done it a few times and it can work, but you can easily get left with something that refuses to sell and is therefore a loss and can even wipe out any previous sales/profit. I can only imagine coming home from an auction and explaining to the other half you've spent Hundreds more than expected and you don't know what you'll get when and if it all sells.

 

 

Tony.....That bench is completely normal, in fact I'd say that was quite tidy as I can see the work surface.