Jump to content
 

Hornby P2


Dick Turpin
 Share

Recommended Posts

Two members brought their new P2s to our Club Rooms tonight, one Railroad, one fully detailed.  The Railroad one was initially a non-runner, but after a little trying it set off and the motor ran very nicely.  However, the front driving wheel kept derailing, so it may require some checking of the back to backs.  On the other P2, we were initially unable to connect the tender to the loco as a screw was missing - found on the floor after a quick search, so it must have been very loose to start with.  With tender connected, the loco ran very nicely, but on this one the tender kept derailing and 'bouncing' over points and crossovers.

 

Overall the considered view was that Hornby quality control must be pretty poor just now!

The tenders ran roughly on three out of three P2s in my possession until I forced a back to back gauge between all of the slightly tight to gauge wheelsets. Once done, all the clattering and bouncing stopped and I could then set the locos back through finescale pointwork without trouble, the tenders having previously derailed every time I attempted this.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Fixed etched plates to CoN with matt varnish as suggested somewhere above, sorry, can't find actual post. They fixed well and I had time to adjust them properly as well. Used superglue before but this seems better. Did one side than let it dry before other side. Looks good, extra lining and correct numbers/letters next.  Loco still runs very well, no problems. 

 

While I was sticking on the plates, I had my trusty old Jamieson V2 running round to lend a bit of LNER flavour.   It occurs to me that the best motor for an LNER model is of course a Romford Bulldog. :)

Link to post
Share on other sites

The tenders ran roughly on three out of three P2s in my possession until I forced a back to back gauge between all of the slightly tight to gauge wheelsets. Once done, all the clattering and bouncing stopped and I could then set the locos back through finescale pointwork without trouble, the tenders having previously derailed every time I attempted this.

That was what I suspected! I think the owner of the 'derailing tender' was going to check the B-T-Bs, as he has a gauge.

Edited by Simon G
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

That was what I suspected! I think the owner of the 'derailing tender' was going to check the B-T-Bs, as he has a gauge.

The B-T-Bs on my P2 are 14.1mm.

Isn't that what you expect from Hornby?

 

The "jump" start seems to have eased a little after some running in.

However it runs jerkily on position 1 of my DCC controller but completely smooth on 2!!! (28 steps)

 

Keith

Edited by melmerby
Link to post
Share on other sites

Are we at cross purposes here then?

To be honest, i am undecided as to what I am planning to do with mine, thus keeping it as 2001 or changing to one of the other versions are both options. A few days ago, returning it to the model shop due to the running was also on the cards.

 

Regarding 2001's valve gear, I'm not too concerned about 2001's valve gear working, but I would prefer an option that isn't black plastic. I suppose it could be painted, but i can't imagine that it is going to make much of a difference to making it look like a metal valve gear. The least effective bit, in my opinion, is the section of the gear that looks as if it is suppose to attach to the connecting rods. On mine the plastic bends away from the rods.

 

How did the 4mm kit manufacturers deal with 2001's valve gear? Can I not re-appropriate some metal/etch parts?

Link to post
Share on other sites

At last have eventually got my hands on a TTS version thanks to TMC and have to say that straight out of the box it runs very well maybe a little tight but is freeing up all the time it runs, but no problems running over points or curves only one slight problem if you fit the drain cock pipes the front pony truck wheels will foul on the pipe, the sound is ok but not as good as the more established manufacturers the sound beat changes fairly often even when the Loco is running at one speed however for the price it is very good and is perfectly acceptable all in all a vey good model and I would certainly recommend it.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I picked up a railroad p2 at thr dundee show last weekend and although i was originally going for the enhanced version, after some work the cheaper or budget model looks quite good.

I started by giving the loco a complete repaint in phoenix doncaster green, then remove the moulded handrails and replaced by proper handrails (i had some spare Hornby handrail knobs and wire from another project) the loco has been almost fully lined out using hmrs transfera and also by hand around the front end, wheels and washout plugs etc. i say almost as i am not going to line out the chassis as i am going to lightly weather the loco and i dont see the point of spending all that time lining out the chassis to then cover it in road dirt after which it wouldnt be seen. I have also not replaced the skokebox handrail because of where it is you can hardly tell - or i cant anyway. There are a few details to add for example the single handrail that is missing on the model on the inside of the front of the loco, i also plan to fit the link drive that is also missing on the left hand side third set of drivers - possibly using an a4 lubricator drive but will see what i can make up. But looking good so far.

 

post-10572-0-76968400-1413827312_thumb.jpg

post-10572-0-15966800-1413827439_thumb.jpg

post-10572-0-20740400-1413827528_thumb.jpg

post-10572-0-51709700-1413827563_thumb.jpg

  • Like 17
Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice paint job above. Yellow insignia???? or funny colour rendering by digital imaging?

 

Whilst operating Waterloo Road over the weekend at Peterborough I had sneaked my unfinished Earl Marischal onto the 1960-ish BR layout as a Sunday afternoon piece of silliness. I was quite puzzled but tried to remain polite and helpful when one visitor asked me, apparently seriously, why the cylinders were "painted" white.....

 

Work on my P2 conversions will have to be suspended now owing to the other things that I need to do. Before I put them aside for a rest however, I thought that even if Earl Marischal will have to be taken apart again if resin duplication of conversion parts is to be tried, and will subsequently need a proper spray-painted overall finish, it would be nice just to get a clearer impression of the likely final look. Quick brush application of some almost-matching green mixture, some black, and some dull red set me up for taking these photographs.

 

 

STA79706green_zpsb8c06fca.jpg

 

STA79707green_zps49b5a3a8.jpg

 

STA79708green_zps34f60046.jpg

Edited by gr.king
  • Like 8
Link to post
Share on other sites

The temporary paint finish on 2002 looks even uglier in this daylight picture, but it serves to demonstrate that the provision of steam pipe covers has not been forgotten, even if I overlooked them last night:
STA79709steampipes_zps462f2211.jpg

I include the next picture simply as visible proof that a smokebox door can be pushed out of a Hornby P2 without wrecking things. This one looked from within suspiciously solidly glued, the deep rebate on it rear edge appearing to have plenty of evidence of having been thoroughly coated in glue. When I first started pushing around the very close-fitting curved parts of the rebate joint, it seemed as if nothing was willing to move. I then started pushing at the flat top part of the rebate joint and thought I could see very slight flexing of the door relative to the main body moulding. On slipping the flat blade of a large jewellers screwdriver into the flat part of the (internal) joint towards one end, and giving it a slight twist, the faint sound of cracking glue arose. I repeated this at the other end of the door top joint. One more push lower down and the undamaged door came out of the undamaged hole in the body with a further faint cracking sound. I only bother to mention this and show the result as anybody wishing to try to alter the top hinge and create a proper vertical hinge-pin will no doubt find access vastly better with the door clear of the arched tops of the smoke deflectors.
STA79710smokeboxdooroff_zpse9ef6d4c.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

That's two of us now who see those letters as yellow rather than gold. Are they yellow? Shaded gold would be the official standard for green LNER locos.

 

There's nothing to say that it was historically correct of course, but I remember being surprised to see shaded yellow insiginia on the green B12 soon after its return from restoration in East Germany.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi all

 

Here is my video showing the new motor in place and the results, along with experiments etc

 

 

 

Just as a comment, where as before if I used my feedback controller I could get smooth operation from the original motor, with this new one it hates feedback and seems to run slowly!

###################################################################################################################

      Great to see the motors being swapped in this video you made.

 

                                                D.R.M.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks, as an update Hornby have now responded to my initial request about this.

I am sending the old motor back to them for testing and they are sending a new one back.

Will be interesting to see how it performs as the inadequacies of the old one were very clear!

Probably stick with the new one I fitted all the same.

 

As for flywheels, Dave Cleal rejected my order for a flywheel as someone who made them has died!

Link to post
Share on other sites

The appearance of kingfisher24's P2 with it's Doncaster Green repaint is transformed. Did you re-do the lining as well or brush paint around it? Whatever, it looks the bees-nees although I would question the use of yellow (shaded) insignia on green locos.

Thanks, i masked over the boiler lining and running plate etc before airbrushing the doncaster green which i think always gives a better finish. As for the shade of the transfers i could have sworn that i had the correct set of transfers in my hand when i was preparing to do the loco but when i looked at the loco and then the set i used - somehow i managed to swap them for the black loco set. In think the reason is i was working on a lner black glen for a friend at the same time and forgot to change over. Oh well a job for another wet windy evening and lets face it if the weather forecast is to be believed im going to have plenty of those. In any case it doesnt look too bad even with the wrong shade numbers etc. i just wish a was brave enough to do what gr king is doing. As i quite fancy doing a what if loco ie in a4 nose condition and in br green. I have started a p2 with the aim of doing just that but will have to wait and see how it goes.
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks, as an update Hornby have now responded to my initial request about this.

I am sending the old motor back to them for testing and they are sending a new one back.

Will be interesting to see how it performs as the inadequacies of the old one were very clear!

Probably stick with the new one I fitted all the same.

 

As for flywheels, Dave Cleal rejected my order for a flywheel as someone who made them has died!

 

Yes, sadly they have.

 

And of course, it's only a matter of time before Dave Cleal won't be taking orders for anything, anyway.

Edited by Cleefy
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Does anyone know if Hornby have made any sort of announcement or statement of intent regarding the performance or replacement of this cheap and nasty motor that they have fitted to this otherwise very good model engine.

No , because it's quite deliberate. It's not perceived as a fault so why rectify it. My own one runs very well

Link to post
Share on other sites

It is a pitty THATS LIFE is not still running on the BBC ,Ho  I just thought is watch dog still on the BBC.

If this was a problem with a new car just launched I think the car would be re-called.

 Anyone got the number for the BBC, LOL.

 

                       D.R.M.

Edited by DonnyRailMan
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

No , because it's quite deliberate. It's not perceived as a fault so why rectify it. My own one runs very well

Quite agree....so does mine(after initial no go due to lack of insulation around pick up).That however does not mean that others do not have a major problem with the motor and that this is an issue which should be addressed.Let's not forget the difficulties others may have.......even if we ourselves do not have a problem.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Quite agree....so does mine(after initial no go due to lack of insulation around pick up).That however does not mean that others do not have a major problem with the motor and that this is an issue which should be addressed.Let's not forget the difficulties others may have.......even if we ourselves do not have a problem.

 

I think you may have misunderstood - the original poster was complaining that the motor was "cheap and nasty", not that it was faulty. He wants a, presumably, expensive and nice motor fitted instead.

 

I find it fascinating that many people have been posting seemingly interminably that models cost too much, and they won't stand for it. Hornby now de-specs a new model to deliver it at a reduced cost, and people are now complaining that the spec is "cheap and nasty" and they want expensive motors. Presumably for no extra cash?

 

Who would be a manufacturer?

 

Paul

Link to post
Share on other sites

No , because it's quite deliberate. It's not perceived as a fault so why rectify it. My own one runs very well

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

   That sounds like pull the ladder up im alright  Jack.

 

                               D.R.M.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...