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Camel Quay - A North Cornwall inspired layout in 4mm


tender
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So much more detail than I ever imagined possible on a small layout, you really are setting a NEW BENCHMARK Ray.

 

Well done and please keep it up.

 

Whats next that we haven't seen in 4mm before?

 

Bodge :sungum:

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Just as well I haven't got as far as sticking them down, having read this I will have to look this up, what's a detector?

Ray.

Sorry - I'm off to the Arctic Circle later today so no time to deal with it.  I'm sure Merf will explain all and if you care to hang fire for a week or two i will provide pics of the  Southern type for your further education

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Thanks Mike, like you say, I'm sure someone else will pipe up, If not there's always google.

 

Arctic Circle, that sounds interesting.

Ray, either Ian / Olddudders, or Shaun / Sasquacht? might be able to help you.

 

Ian used to work on the SR.

 

Bodge :sungum:

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Thanks Mike, like you say, I'm sure someone else will pipe up, If not there's always google.

 

Arctic Circle, that sounds interesting.

 

Detectors !

Well I avoided them. Depends how many small fiddley bits you want to model. Electrical or mechanical.

Basically the mechanical ones have the signal wire running through a slotted blade only if the points fit up snugly, and the FPL is locked (when used). I would use a electrical one (cos its easier), just fitted to the sleeper ends near the switch end wit 2/3 bits of rodding going into it.

Merf.

 

 

I'm not too good at explaining it, there must be some photos somewhere ?

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Considering what Merf was saying and after seeing Buffalo's link to Mikes pictures I'm inclined to not to bother with detectors for the time being. Maybe revisit later.

Another item missing for some time has been the running in board.

 

post-11105-0-30112600-1395789117_thumb.jpg

 

This arrived with the ground signals from Dart Casting and has now been assembled, painted and glued in position.

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I've also been playing around with different cameras this evening to see if I could improve on the quality of some of the shots.

This is this the best so far.

 

post-11105-0-39949100-1395790755.jpg

 

But I'm still not that impressed. I think the main problem might be not enough light on the subject giving rise to long exposure times and digital 'noise'. Gone are the days of roll film and chemicals.

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I've also been playing around with different cameras this evening to see if I could improve on the quality of some of the shots.

This is this the best so far.

 

attachicon.gifimage.jpg

 

But I'm still not that impressed. I think the main problem might be not enough light on the subject giving rise to long exposure times and digital 'noise'. Gone are the days of roll film and chemicals.

Ray, try the same shot with a long exposure time, BUT with a desk or spot lamp WAVED GENTLY around the front at or below the running plate level to reduce shadows and dark areas.

The Camera needs to be still obviously and the lamp will give light from underneath to avoid dark areas and shadows but still retaining natural light on top.

post-9335-0-40157900-1395819554_thumb.jpg

 

Hope this helps,

Bodge :sungum:

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Hi Ray, The photo looks a lot better, the depth a field is fine, Bodgit is right about the extra lighting, l think we can all go overboard with details on a layout and sometimes even if it is right it looks wrong on a model, l remember a guy in Portsmouth wanted me to paint a D/D bus in Portsmouth Corporation red, he said he has got a little pot of the original paint they used, l said we could not use this as it would be too dark, he wouldn't have it, so he was there when l painted and yes it was too dark and we had to thin it down a lot to get it to look right.

 

l think with things like point rodding, signals etc, it should be a representation of the real thing, if it looks right then thats good enough, you have made a cracking layout in CQ without going over board....

 

Just my opinion   George

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Hi Andy/George, thanks for the tip with the extra lamp. Gave this a try this evening and the result was not good. Problem was the colour of the additional light being totally different to the main light. It certainly lit up the shadow areas but they had a very noticeable colour cast compared to the rest. Will have look around the house for another bulb with a matching colour temperature.

Ray.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Following AndyY's excellent tutorial in the photography section I thought I'd see if I could improve on my basic 'point and shoot' shots.

I don't have access to Photoshop that AndyY uses but managed this with some 'free' stuff off the web.

 

post-11105-0-38093100-1396991658_thumb.jpg

 

The sky's a bit plain (and vivid) but it was the only shot I had to hand with a horizon.

Still lots of room for improvement but hopefully getting better.

Ray.

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Having read AndyY's comment (in the photography section) I've done a bit more work on the photo.

 

post-11105-0-74962500-1397040324_thumb.jpg

 

The background sky has been lightened (desaturated) and the shadows brought out a bit.

Now going back to AndyY's tutorial to see how he adds smoke and steam.

Ray.

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Ray, I've been looking at your ballast again and that's one thing I want to perfect with the next project, it looks so neat so I'll be trowling back through to pinch your secrets and also I like that idea that Larry, (Coachman) uses on Greenfield.

 

Bodge :sungum:

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Ray, I've been looking at your ballast again and that's one thing I want to perfect with the next project, it looks so neat so I'll be trowling back through to pinch your secrets and also I like that idea that Larry, (Coachman) uses on Greenfield.

 

Bodge :sungum:

I think Larry uses the same (or similar) method as I do. Briefly, spread neat PVA, lay the track and cover with ballast. Wait a bit to dry and hoover up the excess.

To get neat edges I mask down either side of where the track will go before spreading the glue. Simples.

Try a test piece first with the ballast you intend using.

Ray.

 

PS forgot to mention, I spray the track with the required sleeper colour before laying.

It's all on page 1.

Edited by tender
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  • 2 weeks later...

I love that Highley Building, it's build quality is lovely. I have to literally slap my wrist to not buy it. Clever use of the canopy. And shall look forward to the DAS make. Will you seal it in some manner so the liquid content from the DAS does not 'melt' it? A coating of PVA or similar? I have only put DAS on plasticard, so do worry that this might be a consideration. No expert mind you, would love to see it work.

Edited by Jaz
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I love that Highley Building, it's build quality is lovely. I have to literally slap my wrist to not buy it. Clever use of the canopy. And shall look forward to the DAS make. Will you seal it in some manner so the liquid content from the DAS does not 'melt' it? A coating of PVA or similar? I have only put DAS on plasticard, so do worry that this might be a consideration. No expert mind you, would love to see it work.

Hi Jaz

Covering card with DAS can have its problems, the card wanting to warp, but this can be minimised by coating both inside and out with PVA and applying the DAS before it dries. As the card from the ABM kits is not that thick i will reinforce it with some plastic angle/sheet.

I used this method on the goods shed which was the first time I've used the DAS/scribe method for buildings.

Ray.

Edited by tender
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Ray, you may notice some ratings from me today as I have to apologise for only just finding your thread (a link from under Polly's posts on ER!). I hope to use Peco code75 and your tip about the sleeper spacing is particularly interesting. The ballasting method too looks great and if it excites 'Bodgit' then it's certainly good enough for me! Thank you for sharing your expertise with us dunces!

Kind regards,

Jock67B.

PS methinks AndyP picks his friends well, what with you, GeorgeT, Jeff(Physicsman) to name but a few! As he would say - Hahaha!!

Edited by Jock67B
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Ray, I've been looking at your ballast again and that's one thing I want to perfect with the next project, it looks so neat so I'll be trowling back through to pinch your secrets and also I like that idea that Larry, (Coachman) uses on Greenfield.

 

Bodge :sungum:

 

Ray, you may notice some ratings from me today as I have to apologise for only just finding your thread (a link from under Polly's posts on ER!). I hope to use Peco code75 and your tip about the sleeper spacing is particularly interesting. The ballasting method too looks great and if it excites 'Bodgit' then it's certainly good enough for me! Thank you for sharing your expertise with us dunces!

Kind regards,

Jock67B.

PS methinks AndyP picks his friends well, what with you, GeorgeT, Jeff(Physicsman) to name but a few! As he would say - Hahaha!!

 

Hi Andy And Jock

I showed Ray how to do the ballasting some time ago but he has forgotten one thing. That is if you are using Peco Code 75 track you need to use the standard grade ballast due to the thickness of the sleepers, but on the other hand if using track by SMP or C&L then you need to use the fine ballast again due to the sleeper height. Standard ballast will in many cases come above the SMP/C&L sleepers. The other item which I have changed since I showed ray this method is that I have brought a small ballaster unit which slides along the rail and gives a neat finish to the ballast edge. For further examples of my track work see my threads as indecated below.

 

By the way Andy have not been to well again My heart is casuing a few problems  again going of at 145 beats instead of the 75. Just getting old?

 

Peter

Edited by trains12
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