EddieB Posted January 9, 2015 Author Share Posted January 9, 2015 So if I understand this thread right the 45 is actually a 46? Well the plinth says "class 46" and "46022" but the loco carries "45022" and is named (correctly for that number) "Lytham St. Annes". I believe it impolite to tell a lady that her collar doesn't match her cuffs. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rowanj Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 It's presumably a BR2a tender that's coming. So it could run with 75050_64, 80_89. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Il Grifone Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 (edited) The picture shows what appears to be a BR1B http://greatbritishlocomotive.co.uk/_uk/?page_id=7 The real stars of the Buster Keaton film don't appear until about 21 minutes in.... Coat on and beating hasty retreat........ Edited January 9, 2015 by Il Grifone 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rowanj Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 The picture shows what appears to be a BR1B http://greatbritishlocomotive.co.uk/_uk/?page_id=7 . Yes I think you are right, so that means this will be a Southern only loco. But the BR1B is easily converted to several others in the series so it will be useful. The Bachmann original is a lovely model .Branchlines used to do a motorising kit, but it's a while since I've seen it advertised, and have no idea how straightforwrd it was/is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wild Boar Fell Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 The size and shape of the BR1B & BR1C tenders are the same, so the 1B could be modified to suit a 9F (With a 1C) by moving the partition in the centre of the tender and making a new coal space. Similarly moving/ removing the partitions and changing the interior details should allow for the 1D,1E & 1K tenders to be made. Think I may invest in a few of these as BR1C tendered Bachmann 9F's are becoming a tad scarce. Regards, Wild Boar Fell Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJS1977 Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 The house may not turn out quite as expected.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8qFXR35oBKw One of Robinson's? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidsmith_uk Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 76046 to 76069 were the SR allocation with BR1B larger tenders, as per GBL. Southern also had 76005 to 76019 and 25 to 29 (smaller tender) but the Stratford ones also ended up on SR. Doesn't look like 70 and up were ever on SR. (BR motive power allocations 59-68, Ian Allen) According to Wikipedia the class only worked the central section of BR(S). Southern modelling fans might bear this in mind if their SR interest is elsewhere in the region. (Is Wikipedia right?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickL2008 Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 (edited) Hi - Just had a quick look at the 45 model, looks like the grills are correct for a 45, or at least the one ill be doing this model as; 45112Edit: having a look at the nose area again, and comparing it, it looks as though there is not enough of the nose above the grill area, so the cab front windows look to be about 1/2MM taller than they should be to compensate for this NL Edited January 10, 2015 by NickL2008 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steamport Southport Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 Being totally selfish I'm glad that they went for a 76xxx 4MT 2-6-0 rather than a 75xxx 4MT 4-6-0. I already have 4 of the latter and they aren't exactly difficult to get hold of. I'll definitely be on the hunt for a couple extra. Pity that it probably means that the 5MT won't be happening though. Can't have everything I suppose. Jason. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theo C. Cupier Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 The ASDA and WHSmith branches at Cribbs Causeway both had a single Peak on the shelf this evening (Sat). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plarailfan Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 They have done the Peak, as 45 022 "Lytham St Annes" and like the original Palitoy / Mainline model, it has the buffers incorrectly fitted to the body. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smiffy2 Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 (edited) An update on the T9 backdating, which I have re-started after the flu. I am mostly working on the tender - converting it to a six wheeler, using a Hornby underframe and the GBL body. I started by cutting away everything except the body from the GBL tender - first I cut it in half vertically, which allowed access to the underframe detail. That was all cut away with a razor saw. Tedious but easy. Then I offered up the two parts of the shell to the Hornby underframe and cut a slice out, glued the whole thing back together and filled the inevitable cut line. This isn't great, because it is quite difficult to get both a perfectly straight saw cut and then it's tricky to align the two sections, but will be OK with a lot of detailed sanding and filing. You may be able to see some strengthening plates inside the tender body - 20thou plastikard. Unfortunately I seem to have lost the tender top and coal load, but when I find it that will be cut down and some real coal added to hide the join. A bit messy but that will be OK in the end (honest). The rear buffer beam is a bit anaemic, so I'm largely replacing it. It would be nice and easy to make up a new one in brass, but unfortunately it has a small section of the valence moulded on, so I'm having to work with the plastic. That work consists of a screw coupling, sprung buffers and a Romford vacuum pipe. Other pieces will be added later when I go back and check sources. To cover the hole which takes the shank of the coupling I have soldered on a coupling plate taken from a Mainly Trains wagon fret. That was how I burned myself - when I went to put the soldering iron down it escaped, the hard cable acting like a spring. As it spun it got my left hand - but I didn't drop the coupling! The next job is to sort out the sandboxes and water-tube covers. This has proved much harder than I expected, and I'm still not sure if I'm going to continue with these or make new ones. At the moment I'm waiting for the putty to set off. A bit of sanding then I'll see. So some serious chimping, but also a bit of progress. Edited January 11, 2015 by Smiffy2 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Londontram Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 (edited) An update on the T9 backdating, which I have re-started after the flu. I am mostly working on the tender - converting it to a six wheeler, using a Hornby underframe and the GBL body. I started by cutting away everything except the body from the GBL tender - first I cut it in half vertically, which allowed access to the underframe detail. That was all cut away with a razor saw. Tedious but easy. Then I offered up the two parts of the shell to the Hornby underframe and cut a slice out, glued the whole thing back together and filled the inevitable cut line. This isn't great, because it is quite difficult to get both a perfectly straight saw cut and then it's tricky to align the two sections, but will be OK with a lot of detailed sanding and filing. You may be able to see some strengthening plates inside the tender body - 20thou plastikard. Unfortunately I seem to have lost the tender top and coal load, but when I find it that will be cut down and some real coal added to hide the join. DSC_0061.jpg DSC_0062.jpg A bit messy but that will be OK in the end (honest). The rear buffer beam is a bit anaemic, so I'm largely replacing it. It would be nice and easy to make up a new one in brass, but unfortunately it has a small section of the valence moulded on, so I'm having to work with the plastic. That work consists of a screw coupling, sprung buffers and a Romford vacuum pipe. Other pieces will be added later when I go back and check sources. To cover the hole which takes the shank of the coupling I have soldered on a coupling plate taken from a Mainly Trains wagon fret. That was how I burned myself - when I went to put the soldering iron down it escaped, the hard cable acting like a spring. As it spun it got my left hand - but I didn't drop the coupling! DSC_0061.jpg The next job is to sort out the sandboxes and water-tube covers. This has proved much harder than I expected, and I'm still not sure if I'm going to continue with these or make new ones. At the moment I'm waiting for the putty to set off. A bit of sanding then I'll see. DSC_0061.jpg So some serious chimping, but also a bit of progress. I tell you what Dick I've sanded and filled my tender side down three times so far and its been a real b==ger to get rid of that join line. If your top doesn't turn up I have a spare but I made new top inserts for both the 6 and 8 wheel tenders but then I am converting mine to Caledonian ones. I've also beefed up the buffer beams on mine with some Hornby T9 sprung buffers off ebay. I've got some Dingham auto couplers for the rears but will keep the front as a three link one (Caley locos actually had a single long link that stood upright leaning back against the buffer beam). At the moment I'm at a stand still with both the 4-4-0 bodies but I've been working on the second chassis conversion from the B12 chassis (I messed one up by drilling the new hole out by 1mm but lucky I had a spare) so work still progresses As soon as post Christmas funds permit I'm going to order some domes and chimneys off shapeways which Jason (JCL) drew up for me. Steve Edited January 11, 2015 by Londontram 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smiffy2 Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 The tender isn't too bad - just takes infinite patience! The worst part was that I couldn't get an accurate measurement for the piece to be removed. In the end I did it by overlapping the rear section over the front and tracing a pencil line, then cutting well away from it. I still ended up a few thou short. I've got a couple of chimneys ordered from Alan Gibson (along with parts for making a long-tank E2, but that's another story). When they arrive I'll put a picture up. My next plan is a short-smokebox type with 8-wheel tender (unless I can get another tender chassis cheaply) but without sandboxes or water tubes, LSWR livery. Then it's on to repainting a long smokebox in SR colours. I've now soldered up the buffers (no need for springing on a static model) and the coupling. Looks like the superglue has dried up, though. Has anyone tried an Alan Gibson frame to motorise the thing? That top must be somewhere... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete_mcfarlane Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 SEF do a T9 chassis kit, which is another possibility for motorising them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smiffy2 Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 (edited) Buffer beam done - needs a bit of cleaning up before priming (closeups are so cruel): I found the tender top! It was in the drawer with the plastikard... Cut in half and a blanking piece glued in to take coal, eventually. All looks a bit messy at the moment, but should clean up. Next job - sorting out the sandboxes and water tube box which I haven't done yet. Off to watch the march in Paris now. Edited January 11, 2015 by Smiffy2 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smiffy2 Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 So you've essentially made a sub-chassis to take the wheels? The simple ideas work best. I think if I was doing that I'd use some cheap brass strip, held apart with Romford spacers, which work well if you can hide the screw heads. That would give you more weight low down. But you've got space for some ballast there! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rowanj Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 (edited) "Sub-chassis" that's the word(s) I was looking for. Yes the plastic square is hollow and I'm intending to put some liquid lead in before final fitting. I used plastic rather than brass for quickness and ease on this experiment. It also has the advantage in this case that it can be stuck to the chassis bottom or fitted with self-tappers, and drills so easily. I'll see how it all goes Edit - the other advantage of plastic is, when you find you messed up the wheel spacing, you can cut it and replace with the correct dimensions. How on earth did I do that?! Edited January 12, 2015 by rowanj 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smiffy2 Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 Don't do what I did (as if you would) When I was 11 or so I had built a Kitmaster City of Truro to go on my then-GWR layout. I aimed to weight it so that I could use it (unpowered) in double-heading situations. Yes. A City double heading a Castle. Never mind. When my mother went out I melted some lead (old pipe) on the kitchen stove. You've worked out the next bit. I poured it into the tender... Fortunately I didn't have my fingers underneath it, and it came away cleanly from the cooker when it cooled. So when I say I've been chimping it up since 1949 I'm not lying. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emperordalek Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 HSE would have had a field -day in your house! I just hope everything including your hands was de-contaminated - (and the saucepan was immediatley condemned!!) - you can't underestimate the evils of lead! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smiffy2 Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 Nah. It was the 1950s. The lead I got from that would have paled into insignificance compared to the paint and the water pipes. And the toy soldiers... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 Nah. It was the 1950s. The lead I got from that would have paled into insignificance compared to the paint and the water pipes. And the toy soldiers... ...not to mention the exhaust fumes from leaded petrol. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Il Grifone Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 ...not to mention the exhaust fumes from leaded petrol. The benzene compounds the lead was replaced with are no better - maybe even worse. Benzene is a carcinogen.... Lead was also used as a protection for electrical cables and the weights in Dublo locomotives are made of guess what... (Trix as well I think.) Early Dinky Toys were also made of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted January 12, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 12, 2015 Hmm... just occurred to me I have 4771 but no 'King!' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 The benzene compounds the lead was replaced with are no better - maybe even worse. Benzene is a carcinogen.... Lead was also used as a protection for electrical cables and the weights in Dublo locomotives are made of guess what... (Trix as well I think.) Early Dinky Toys were also made of it. Funnily enough, Hornby Dublo Lead weights tend to have "LEAD" cast into them! (Some early Tri-ang Railways Princess Locos were weighted with lead taken from the walls of the old Brewery that was the Richmond Rovex Factory.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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