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Pencarrow: nothing to see, move along please.


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I think the overall effect is the best way forward, if a few items stand out, I think it jars. The North Devon club were very adept at getting the overall look, but if you looked closely the modelling didn't always stand up to scrutiny.

That's Iain Rice's club isn't it?

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I think the overall effect is the best way forward, if a few items stand out, I think it jars. The North Devon club were very adept at getting the overall look, but if you looked closely the modelling didn't always stand up to scrutiny.

Not enough rivets?

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Anyway....

 

Over the last two days I've stuck 6 bits of stone sheet on some other bits of white plasticard.

 

post-6675-0-76525100-1518127387_thumb.jpg

 

Would normally be just a couple of hours work but there we go.

 

Starting to feel a bit Bodminy...

 

post-6675-0-71186600-1518127537_thumb.jpg

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Slightly less jaunty an angle...

 

post-6675-0-51492600-1518128014_thumb.jpg

 

The pink stuff is filler on the sheet joints which will be scribed. The corners have yet to be done. The cocktail sticks are for alignment and to make sure it sets in the right shape.

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The Wills sheet has been dragged over some coarse sandpaper which has made the stonework less coarse...

 

post-6675-0-60215600-1518128369_thumb.jpg

 

I'll be doing a bit more work on the sheets to make sure there's no obvious repeating patterns - a big problem with the small sheet size. Rotating them helps but then the joins between sheets aren't as good - hence the filler.

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The Wills sheet has been dragged over some coarse sandpaper which has made the stonework less coarse...

 

rps20180208_221800.jpg

 

I'll be doing a bit more work on the sheets to make sure there's no obvious repeating patterns - a big problem with the small sheet size. Rotating them helps but then the joins between sheets aren't as good - hence the filler.

You building a monorail there?

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Nice progress Chris, I think you're right to take that method with the stone sheets, as useful as they are, they need some working on to get a better finished surface.

 

Good stuff mate !

 

G

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I see there is a part built 1366 on eBay which made me think of you. Fancy a second to keep you going when you finish the first?

Hat, coat....

Having had a look at the photos....erm...NO!

 

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F323060077045

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IMO corner joints can also make or break a model. I've seen quite a few stunning model buildings that have been spoilt by the builder just butting up the plastic sheets and making little effort to disguise the join. A pet hate of mine are corners where the coursing and blocks / bricks don't align (but each to their own).

 

So, having set myself up for a fall...here's my method.

 

Now in theory the Wills sheets are designed so that the left side of one sheet should continue the pattern from the right of another. That's the theory but in practice there does seem to be a bit of pattern drift. In particular I've found that you get a step in the pattern if you align the top and bottom of a sheet. Here's the best I can do with a couple of sheets:

 

post-6675-0-10650400-1518176792_thumb.jpg

 

Now as mentioned in a previous post, the downside to trying to match the courses is that all the sheets are oriented the same way and you get an obvious (to me) repeating pattern. So the solution there is to not bother matching the coursing and to go in with the filler!

 

I take a different approach on corners and try to get the corner to sit part way through a sheet. You then cut on the corner and the coursing should be continuous. So here we have a corner with the sheet broken across it.

 

post-6675-0-95462900-1518177090_thumb.jpg

 

What might not be obvious from that shot is that the left hand sheet is fixed first but cut slightly over length.

 

post-6675-0-74782300-1518177175_thumb.jpg

 

The right hand sheet is then MEKd heavily along the joint and pushed strongly into the left hand sheet. This causes the liquefied plastic to fill any gaps. I then leave it to set.

 

Tick tock....

 

Once firmed up the excess is trimmed back with inappropriate tools:

 

post-6675-0-88875300-1518177343_thumb.jpg

 

And a nasty big file:

 

post-6675-0-42920700-1518177378_thumb.jpg

 

And then in with more subtle tools to reinstate the coursing and texture:

 

post-6675-0-16921900-1518177426_thumb.jpg

 

A brush with some solvent over the surface tidies it all up. (I've not bothered too much with the lower courses as they will be below ground).

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Nice work Chris. HAve you found a way of representing Queen closers in Brickwork?

 

Don

Tricky with plasticard Don, that's where drawing it up on CAD and getting brickwork cut with a laser comes in to its own. The slow tedious method with plasticard is to use filler on the corner area, sand down and scribe in the closers. Or alternatively scribe straight into plain plasticard.

 

In 4mm SEF do a sheet of brickwork with corners and arches, not sure if the do it in 7mm...

 

post-6675-0-69763600-1518181444_thumb.jpg

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